As anglers have become more aware of methods such as catch and release and selective harvest, there has been an increased interest in circle hooks that promise to reduce unintended fish mortality, as they’re safer for fish than traditional J hooks. However, many anglers who think they’re using a circle hook are actually using an octopus hook as they look quite similar. Further complicating things, some manufacturers market an “octopus circle hook.” How can you tell if you’re using a circle hook vs. a j hook, or even an octopus hook?
It’s not as complicated as it seems to distinguish circle hooks vs. j hooks. A circle hook’s point bends inwards. Its point is meant to grab a fish by the corner of the mouth when it is reeled in. Unlike a circle hook, the point of a traditional, or j hook, points straight up. It is meant to jab into a fish’s mouth with the force of the bite, or a solid hookset. An octopus hook can either be a circle hook or traditional depending on how the point is aligned, but all octopus hooks have an eye that is offset from the shank. Most octopus hooks have a point that bends slightly inward, but it isn’t as pronounced as a circle hook.
Circle Hook vs. J Hook
Perhaps a better way of explaining the difference between a circle hook and a traditional hook is to think of them like the letters G and J. The point of a circle hook bends inward like the bottom of a G. A traditional hook, in contrast, looks much like a J. Its point sticks straight up towards the sky.
Circle hooks (Left) have a point that bends inward like a G as opposed to J hooks (right) where the hook points straight up.
J hooks are by far what most people start with. They’re featured on multiple lures like jigs and spinnerbaits and there’s nothing wrong with them – they’re quite effective. However, if you’re fishing live bait and you go to set the hook, you could impale the fish quite deep in its stomach. This could potentially kill it. Thus, J style hooks have fallen out of favor when fishing live bait. Even if you plan on keeping the fish anyway, you never know what species will bite. You might want to spare a certain fish’s life that bites your hook. Circle hooks will help you do that.
Circle Hook vs. Octopus Hook
People commonly misidentify octopus hooks as circle hooks. The two look similar as both hooks’ points bend inward slightly, but an octopus hook point’s bend is much less pronounced. Additionally, the eye of an octopus hook bends outward. This allows the hook to be snelled more easily, as the line can go straight down the shaft of the hook.
While both hooks have an octopus-style eye, the hook on the right’s point is not as curved, making it an octopus hook vs. a circle hook (left).
Why Use Circle Hooks for Fishing?
If you’re going to be fishing with live bait and intend to throw any fish you catch back, you should consider using circle hooks vs an octopus hook or j hook. A circle hook’s unique design limits the chance that you will gut hook a fish. This enhances their survivability. The reason this is so is how the hook is designed. While a J hook is going to jab straight into a fish’s flesh, if you try and set the hook with a circle hook, all you’re going to do is pull the hook away from the fish.
How To Set a Circle Hook
Fishing with a circle hook can be extremely unintuitive as you don’t set the hook. If you snap your rod back the second you feel a fish on a circle hook, all you’re going to do is pull the hook away. What you want to do instead is reel in. The idea is if you reel in your hook and the fish turns its head from you, when the hook reaches the very corner of the fish’s mouth, it’ll catch on its own, almost like its a grappling hook catching on the edge of a building.
This is ideal for a few reasons. One, the fish is hooked in a place that is unlikely to be mortal. Secondly, the fish is hooked in what is usually a pretty solid part of its mouth which should allow you to reel it in.
Circle Hooks and Catfish: The Perfect Match
If you’re after giant catfish, circle hooks are ideal. For one, these monstrous fish have no trouble inhaling bait in their gaping maw. If you don’t use a circle hook when fishing for catfish, there’s a great chance you’ll gut hook them. Secondly, certain catfish bait like chicken liver is easier to keep on a circle hook than a j hook.
Once catfish get too big they stop being that tasty, in my opinion, and start being better trophies. Few taxidermists will mount them and you’re better off with artificial fish mounts. Given this, you really want to make sure the big cats survive. When fishing with live or cut bait please consider using a circle hook to enhance the fishery for generations to come.
Are You Legally Required to Use Circle Hooks?
In some states, it is the law to use circle hooks when fishing live bait. When I was researching if treble hooks are illegal in the different states, I often found that certain states require circle hooks when fishing live bait for certain species the state is trying to protect. For the most part, you see these laws when you’re talking about going after stripers, but they can also apply to other fish.
As of writing, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Maryland, Mississippi, New York, and Pennsylvania all have laws on the books that prohibit the use of certain hooks when fishing with live bait. Most prefer (or require) the use of circle hooks instead. Further, there is a federal regulation, 50 CFR 635.21(f) to contend with. This prohibits the use of any hook that isn’t a circle hook in billfish tournaments and while recreationally fishing for sharks.
What Brands Would I Recommend?
Any time I’m looking to buy some fishing hooks, I’m usually focusing on three brands: Mustad, Gamakatsu, and Trokar. My recommendation would be to buy whatever they have in your local tackle shop and support a small business. All three of these brands are great and won’t let you down. The shopkeeper will be happy to help you get the right size of hook for the type of fish you’re going for. If you don’t have a tackle shop near you, all of these brands are also available on Amazon. Here are a few links to each so you can check them out.
Eagle Claw TK619 2/0 Trokar circle hook – this larger size is going to make this a good circle hook for fishing catfish or other large species. You need a larger hook to hold onto a good-sized piece of chicken liver or other cut bait.
Gamakatsu Octopus Circle hook – these are great if you want to rig them snelled as the octopus style allows for that. Several sizes are offered via a drop down (use a smaller size for smaller fish).
While circle hooks do take some getting used to since you don’t set the hook as normal, they are far better for any fish you intend to release unharmed. Gut hooking fish is never a pretty business. You’re often faced with two dismal choices: either cut the line (and leave the hook in) or try and retrieve it (and potentially kill the fish). Instead, consider using a circle hook vs. a j hook and avoid this situation altogether. You’ll catch just as many fish while mortally wounding far fewer. It’s better for you, better for the fish, and better for the next angler. It’s a win, win, win.
As many parents know, taking kids “fishing” really means giving them a front row seat in, “Daddy shows everyone how to untangle fishing line.” Kids are better at getting their fishing line to tangle than they are at finding puddles to jump in. One of the worst ways line can tangle on a spinning reel is what is known as a birds nest. If your child looks up at you and asks, “Why does my fishing line keep unraveling?” you know you’re in for a challenge.
There are many reasons that your fishing line keeps unraveling. The most common are that you incorrectly spooled the wrong type of lineor too much line on your reel, that you never treated the line with a line conditioner (so it formed memory and coiled), or that you fished it the wrong way and your line started to twist. Any of these are enough to cause your line to first get loose on the reel, then coil up precariously, and eventually form the worst tangle the world has ever seen.While all fishing line can do this, braid is the least likely to unravel and twist on its own while fluorocarbon is the most likely to cause you headaches.
Loose line on a reel creates some of the absolute worst birds nest tangles you can imagine. If your fishing line unravels and you don’t notice it, your fishing line will often tangle underneath the reel to the point where you might need to disassemble the reel to free your line. More than likely, loose line unraveling on your reel will force you to once again add fishing line to your spinning reel. I sure hope you enjoy spooling your own line!
Why Does Your Fishing Line Unravel?
Why does my fishing line unravel, you ask? There’s five main reasons that we’ll get into in some detail: you put too much or too heavy of line on your spool, the fishing line formed memory and coiled up, there was too much slack in your fishing line, you closed the bail with your reel instead of manually, or your lure started to spin. All of these will create a situation where the line won’t lay flat on the spool and you’ll instead have a situation where your fishing line is loose on the spool and eventually falls off the spool altogether.
1. You Put Too Much or Too Heavy of Line on Your Spool
The biggest culprit for why your fishing line unravels and falls off the spool is there simply isn’t enough space for it in the first place. Unless you are using a reel designed for saltwater, most spinning reels aren’t able to handle as much or as heavy of fishing line as baitcasters. The heaviest line that I ever put on a spinning reel is 30lb braid, and even that is pushing it. 30lb braid has the diameter of 8lb mono. Most freshwater spinning reels are going to recommend a line size between 4 – 10lb test monofilament, unless they’re truly oversized.
If you overfill your spool, your fishing line won’t stay as tight and will unravel on its own. You should always try to leave about a 1/8″ gap between your fishing line and the edge of the spool. Believe me, if you miss this, your reel will let you know soon enough. Sometimes I get a little overzealous with my winding and put on a bit more than I should. Within casts, I have a pocket full of balled up fishing line I had to cut from my spool.
2. The Fishing Line Formed Memory
Fluorocarbon and monofilament fishing line are renowned for having “memory.” This means that they tend to “set” and coil up. Anyone who has gone a few weeks without fishing and left their line on the spool knows what I mean. Put some slack in it after you cast a lure out. See that spiral? Spiral is synonymous with “twist.” Do what you can to avoid memory. Change out your old fishing line before it goes bad or expires. Use a line conditioner if you have one. Go fishing enough that the line doesn’t have a chance to set too terribly.
3. There Was Slack in Your Fishing Line
Too much slack, especially on a windy day, can cause line to fall off of your reel and unravel because there isn’t enough pressure on it to keep your line on the spool. Worse yet, when this happens you can set yourself up for a monster wind knot, especially if you close the bail with your reel, as discussed below.
4. You Closed the Bail With Your Reel
Most beginners close the bail to their spinning reels by turning the handle. I know I did this for years as a kid before I learned better. This was likely a major reason poor old Dad spent so much time figuring out how to untangle a spinning pole I was using. Here’s the issue: if your line has any slack in it at all, when you close the bail with your reel (giving it a little twist) the slack line is going to form a loop on the spinning reel. This loop will be tight and twisted and won’t sit right on the reel. This loop in your line will be the first to unravel from your spool, get caught by other line trying to leave it, and culminate in a tangled fishing line.
5. Your Lure Started to Spin
Sometimes your lure gets fouled enough that it starts to spin on the retrieve. Consider a crankbait that has both its treble hooks get stuck together. When you start reeling it in, it will start spinning. This creates line twist that, true to form, twists your fishing line up in a spiral and causes all sorts of problems. Some lures are more likely to do this than others, and you might find that attaching a small swivel to your line and then using a leader to the lure from it helps.
Why Does Your Fishing Line Keep Getting Tangled? How to Prevent Fishing Line from Tangling?
Frankly, I think all the tangles I put Dad through as a kid were good for his character and my vocabulary development, but if you want to learn how to prevent fishing line from tangling, let’s talk about the common reasons why fishing line tangles and what you can do about it.
More than likely your fishing line was tangled by one of three things: your line developed line twist, your line formed a wind knot that caught itself and tightened, or your line sat too long and developed coils which wrapped up on themselves, causing a convoluted mess. While you’ll get your share of tangles up near your lures that you’ll quickly notice, the worst tangles by far are formed much closer to the reel, usually right after a cast. Left unnoticed, these quickly turn into monster birds nests of legend. Let’s dive into each more.
This is staged as I’d never let it get that bad, but all that line balled up is absolutely the result of a prior monster tangle!
What is Line Twist?
Line twist is when your fishing line, well, twists. It spins around in a tight spiral. When taut, this can be imperceptible to the eye, but when allowed to slacken, it will be much more obvious. Look for line that looks almost like a corkscrew with a loop in it. All types of fishing line can twist, though some are worse than others.
Does Monofilament Line Twist?
Monofilament line was twisting while fluorocarbon was still just a twinkle in some scientist’s eye. If you’ve been fishing long enough to decide it’s about time you put “why does my fishing line unravel” into a search, you’ve definitely seen monofilament coil up and fall off a spool or two.
Does Fluorocarbon Line Twist?
Does fluorocarbon line twist, you question? Boy does it ever. Fluorocarbon is the Wayne Gretzky of line twisting. It has such high memory that it easily coils, twists and contorts, often straight from the spool. It doesn’t matter if you have light pound test fluorocarbon, or heavy. The thin stuff will twist just as easily, and you’ll be less likely to notice it. My drop shot rod (which I use fluorocarbon on exclusively) goes through multiple spools of it yearly because it’s such a pain.
Does Braided Line Twist?
I suppose braided line twists, sure, but you probably won’t notice it after a couple of casts. Braid can sometimes take a few retrieves to limber up (it can coil slightly from the spool) but once this is done it has next to no memory. While it isn’t going to magically unravel itself if one of your lures goes haywire and produces a monster twirling motion, it’s also not going to be an issue that drives you crazy. Frankly, I consider braided line to be the best type of line to use on spinning reels because of this. It’s certainly the easiest to manage (assuming you’ve backed it appropriately).
With that said, be aware that the same limpness of braid that prevents your line from coiling, does make it more susceptible to other tangles, like wind knots. Luckily, what causes wind knots in braided fishing line are the same factors that cause wind knots in every other line. So avoid making those mistakes, and you’re good!
How to Prevent Line Twist on a Spinning Reel
If you’re serious about wanting to keep your fishing line from unraveling or tangling, you’re going to need to learn how to prevent line twist on a spinning reel. You’re going to want to learn how to properly spool your own reel, close your own bail, and consider using a swivel.
Spooling Your Own Reel
Unless you live next to a tackle shop or have a very bored friend, you’re going to be spooling your own reel with fishing line. If you’re using an open faced reel, it is very important that you learn how to spool your spinning reel without line twist.
I’ll bet you’ve looked at a spool of fishing line and thought you could just poke a pencil through the hole in the center and have someone else hold it while you spooled your own line. This can be fine, but probably not the way you are planning on doing it. Most people hold the pencil horizontally and have the line come off the same way a tire spins. This is the absolute worst way to put line onto a fixed spool reel such as a spinning reel. The reason is you’re immediately imparting twist to the line by forcing it to turn a 90 degree angle to get to the spool. By doing this, you’ve twisted all your line before its even made one cast.
Instead, either lay the spool flat on the ground. Take the tag end of the line and see which way it unspools fishing line. You want it to strip off counterclockwise. This is because it will reel onto your spinning reel clockwise. This is how you need to put line on a fixed spool reel, and a very important precaution to prevent line twist on spinning reels in your arsenal.
How to Spool Line Onto a Spinning Reel
Here are the steps you need to take to spool line onto a spinning reel to avoid line twist.
Set up your filler spool of line as discussed in the last section, so that the line will unravel counterclockwise from the spool.
Take the line and either thread it through the fishing rod you want to fill, or, if space is limited, use the lower section of an old two-part fishing rod for the task (this is a great thing to do with old fishing rods).
Open the bail of your spinning reel.
Form a loop with your line around the spool of your spinning reel. Tie it with an arbor knot.
Close the bail.
Take a rag, wet it with line conditioner.
Pinch the line with this rag about 8″ above the reel.
Reel in slowly and steadily until your fishing line is about 1/8″ from the lip of the spool.
If you follow these steps when spooling your next spinning reel, you’ll be much less likely to have your trip ruined by some line twist.
Close Your Bail Manually, Never Close Your Bail by Turning the Handle
As mentioned earlier, you should always manually close the bail on your spinning reel, never with the handle. First, it’s bad for your reel and will cause it to break down faster. It’s also a sure-fire way to get a wind knot. The slack in the line often forms a loop and gets stuck unnoticed when you do this (you’re probably concentrating on working your lure at this point). What you should do instead is manually close the reel and then pull your line tight through the roller before you reel in. This will save you tons of headaches down the road.
Consider Using a Swivel
Swivels aren’t going to do much for line that twists near the reel, but they work wonders if your crankbait hooks get stuck, your spinnerbait wraps around itself, or any other issue causes a lure to start spinning wildly on retrieve. There are also some lures, like inline spinners, that are notorious for causing line twist. While you might think that a “spinner” would “spin,” that’s really not what it’s designed to do. It will, however, do exactly that if you reel it in too fast. Any lure that makes a large circular pattern on the way back to the boat is going to impart a twist into your line.
A swivel will help avoid this because if the lure starts spinning, in theory the only line that is going to spin is the leader between the lure and the swivel – not the main line. I say in theory because you need to make sure your swivel is actually spinning, as any amount of gunk or algae could clog it up and prevent this.
What is a Wind Knot in Fishing?
A wind knot is every spinning reel angler’s worst enemy. It is a knot that forms when slack causes your fishing line to unravel and slip off the spool. Left unnoticed, this unraveled line will form a loop on the spinning reel when the bail is closed by turning the handle instead of manually flipping it. One reason it is caused a wind knot is because wind puts so much slack into lines that these are much more common on breezy days. If you want to prevent wind knots, it is critical that you manually close your bail. Then, give your line a good tug through the line roller to make sure it is snug. While this might be a case of your needing to break an old habit, it’s one worth fixing.
How to Keep Fishing Line from Curling
If your line keeps unwrapping from your reel, you should consider if line coiling, or curling, is the culprit. As mentioned earlier, fishing line has “memory” which basically means it “sets” to an extent. In other words, the fishing line will more or less start to look the way it has sat, such as in a coil on your reel. These coils or curls are hard to keep tight against the spool, which can cause your fishing line to fall off the spool or unravel. How to keep fishing line from curling is an art in itself that mostly considers line care.
Use a Line Conditioner
One of the benefits of spooling your own reel is that you can use a line conditioner while you do so. Most tackle shops aren’t going to go to this length for you, and none of the pre-spooled fishing reels I know of ship with a fishing line softener applied. You can use anything from a purpose-built fishing line conditioner to simple silicone spray. I personally prefer KVD’s Line and Lure Conditioner, but there are plenty of other options out there.
It is imperative that you use a line conditioner if you’re planning on fishing with fluorocarbon fishing line. If you don’t, you will have a fluorocarbon line twist extravaganza on your hands.
Will Soaking Monofilament Line Help?
Some people like to soak their monofilament line in water to loosen it up. I suppose there’s nothing wrong with this given the line is going into the water eventually, anyway. I’d just caution you not to boil your fishing line. I know plenty of folks do it, but it’s one of those arts that can go south on you quick if you mess it up (high heat and fishing lines don’t always mix).
How to Untangle Fishing Line
While every tangle is unique in its own dastardly way, there are a few maxims that I can speak to that will help you untangle fishing line. The most important is to notice that the fishing line is tangled as quickly as you can. I tell my kids that I need to know they have a tangle as soon as they do. If you catch them early it can be as simple as just gently picking them apart or unwrapping your line. If you don’t notice them immediately, they tend to cinch down and you’re left with a situation where you need to reach for your scissors rather than try and untangle the fishing line.
Candidly, you’re probably better cutting off in most circumstances. Yes, this is expensive. However, every tangle creates pressure and friction on lines that they weren’t designed to handle. Every little kink and knot weakens the strength of your fishing line. What do you suppose is going to happen when that trophy fish bites?
As a general rule of thumb, I attempt to untangle braided fishing line. It is so limp that it won’t kink just because it folds over itself. Monofilament and fluorocarbon fishing line, on the other hand, should simply be retied unless the tangle is truly easy. The second I notice any 90 degree bends, creases, or folds, I cut off and retie.
Is There Any Such Thing as Tangle Free Fishing Line?
No. All fishing line can tangle, especially in the hands of a crafty child. However, there are several brands that have a reputation for being easier to deal with than others. Point in fact, I use these brands almost exclusively for this exact reason. A good braided fishing line that is fairly tangle free is PowerPro. A monofilament line that tangles less than some competitors is Berkley Trilene XL. As for fluorocarbon, good luck, but I do pay a premium for Seaguar InvizX as it is one of the softer, more pliable fluorocarbons out there. This makes Seaguar InvizX about as tangle free as a fishing line made from fluorocarbon can be (which isn’t saying much). These lines are all good choices to help prevent tangles and to stop your fishing line from unraveling.
Conclusions
Fishing is a great hobby, but every rose has its thorns. If you used to find yourself shaking your fist at the sky, crying “Why does my fishing line unravel!?” I hope this article helped sort through the issue for you. There are few things more frustrating in this sport than having your line get loose on the spool and start tangling up on you. As we’ve discussed there are several simple measures you can take to prevent your fishing line from tangling. Luckily, none are major changes. Just use the right line for the reel, apply proper conditioner to it, cast and retrieve it appropriately, and sacrifice your first born (kidding). While there’s no such thing as tangle free fishing line, at least these steps will reduce your agita a bit, and make for a better fishing trip.
Have a great day for fishing,
John Paxton
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There’s something about having the fish of a lifetime get away that makes you feel sick to your stomach and start asking some dangerous questions. If you looked own in disgust at your “cheap” reel and drag that failed you, one of them might be, “Are expensive fishing reels worth it?” You also might want to know what the differences are between low priced and high priced reels as you debate plucking down a few hundred bucks to ensure your dream catch stays hooked next time.
While I have long advocated that you can get away with a cheaper fishing rod, I will emphatically say that buying an expensive fishing reel is definitely worth it, assuming you take care of it. An expensive fishing reel will be much smoother, cast better, have a more reliable drag system, balance better with your rod, and generally make fishing more enjoyable.
Note that this post should compliment my article on expensive fishing rods quite well. After reading this, I’d suggest checking it out. You can find that post here.
Navigation
Sometimes I get a little carried away with these articles. Here are some quick links so you can skip right to what you’re looking for rather than scrolling through 5,000+ words!
What Is the Difference Between Low Priced and High Priced Fishing Reels?
It would be impossible for you to decide if it’s worth shelling out your hard-earned cash for an expensive fishing reel if you didn’t first understand why they’re better than inexpensive ones. There are several differences between cheap and expensive fishing reels that you should know about:
Expensive Fishing Reels Tend to Be Lighter
One of the more distinct differences between low priced and high priced fishing reels are their weight. Cheaper fishing reels tend to weigh more than expensive ones. In some cases this can be quite dramatic. For example, the Pflueger Trion in size 35 discussed below weighs in 10.40 ounces compared to the 7.20 ounce Pflueger Patriarch XT. While you might not think 3.20 ounces is a huge deal, try fishing with the two all day long. You’ll feel a difference.
This probably isn’t that huge of a consideration if you fish occassionally, but if you’re dedicated to the sport and putting in long hours, it might be worth buying a more expensive reel due to their lower weight.
More Expensive Reels Can Balance Better With Your Rod
Because they tend to weigh less, a more expensive fishing reel should balance better with a higher-end rod that also weighs less. In my opinion, it’s well worth it to find a rod and reel that are as light as possible and balance well together. This makes fishing much more enjoyable throughout the day. There’s little point in spending hundreds of dollars on a top-end rod and then skimping on the reel you pair it with.
Easier to Learn On
This may be counter-intuitive but it can be easier to learn on a “better” fishing reel than a “worse” one. This is especially true for baitcasters. Higher-end baitcasters are likely to have more advanced (and useful) braking systems than entry level models. This “dumbs down” the process of casting and thumbing a bit, which can make things easier for beginners.
Likewise, high-quality spinning reels can also be easier for beginners because they’re smoother and less clunky than entry level models. This just gives a better feel that lets you concentrate on what you’re doing rather than wondering if your equipment is broken.
High End Fishing Reels Tend to Have Better Drag Systems
I say this with complete sincerity: I would rather have a $200 fishing reel on a $50 rod than vice versa. The reel, and specifically its drag system, are that important. You will flat out have a better chance of landing your next trophy if the drag system is top notch.
Many folks think that the drag system is simply meant to keep line from breaking. They reason that since braid is so prevalent, one can just up their pound test and call it a day. In fact, one of the most important things that the drag system does is prevent the hook from ripping out of the fish’s mouth. A thin wire hook, such as one found on a crankbait or drop shot, can easily tear through a fish’s flesh if they didn’t get a good hold of it. Braid does not stretch and compounds this problem.
A good drag system will allow you to play larger fish and tire them slowly without their breaking the line or pulling free from the hook. In my mind, this is the most critical difference between cheap and expensive fishing reels and the number one reason why its worth it to buy a top end reel.
Advantages of Cheaper Fishing Reels
There are certainly some advantages to buy a cheaper fishing reel over an expensive model. If it isn’t in the cards to go all-in on a high-end reel, don’t despair, as you might be able to find a great product for a cheap price (bear in mind, most of my fishing reels cost less than $75 and I use them all the time).
Often Are All That You Need
Oftentimes, an inexpensive fishing reel is all that you need. The reason I have so many Pflueger Presidents and so few Pflueger Patriarchs isn’t that I like the President more, but that it is all I need. I don’t really need an expensive fishing reel if I’m throwing spinnerbaits with their large hooks on braid. The drag system of the more economical options works well with these.
Likewise, my five-year-old son and two-year-old daughter don’t need the most expensive reel out there – they need one that they can drop in the sand and abuse for months on end before it breaks. Higher end fishing reels can be sensitive objects. The lower-grade stuff often stands up to beat downs better.
More Economical
An obvious difference between inexpensive fishing reels and expensive ones is price. You can often purchase several “cheap” fishing reels for the price of one high-end model. This is useful if you have many rods to outfit at once.
The economics may also make it more worthwhile to replace the reel rather than repair it when it wears down. You can look at this two ways: you can simply get a fresh reel when necessary (perhaps taking advantage of the “trade in” programs of your local tackle shop in the process), or, you could use this as an opportunity to learn to clean your reel yourself. Even if you destroy it beyond hope in the process, you really haven’t lost much.
Comparing Apples to Apples: Pflueger Spinning Reels Review
I’ll examine this issue in this article by reviewing several Pflueger reels. I have been using these for a decade and they are on the overwhelming majority of my rods. In fact, I own at least one of most of the spinning reels Pflueger currently offers for sale. The only Pflueger reel I don’t own is the Patriarch XT.
Using one brand of spinning reels to make comparisons should better illustrate the differences between the entry level models and high-end models which tend to be about four times as expensive, plus or minus.
For the sake of consistency, I will provide the weight for all reels in size 35. While I personally prefer size 30, not all reels are available in that class and I wanted to give you a good idea of the difference in weight between less expensive and more expensive fishing reels.
While many of these reels don’t come in appropriate sizes for children (20 and 25), those that do will be mentioned below as I know many people visiting my site are doing so to help their child or grandchild learn to fish.
Please note that while I will share some stats on these reels, I’m not going to list every stat as that would be more appropriate for an in-depth review. What I’m trying to do is showcase the major differences between models so that you can make a better decision if an expensive fishing reel is worth it to you.
Pflueger Trion
I have a number of Pflueger Trions in my arsenal. While they are considered Pflueger’s “entry level” spinning reel, they do a fine job. Some of their stats include:
Weight: 10.40 ounces (size 35)
Gear Ratio: 5.2:1
7 bearing system
Slow oscillation gearing
Graphite body and rotor
Aluminum spool
Stainless steel oil felt drag
Aluminum handle
Soft touch knob
10.40 ounces for the size 35 is a full 3.10 ounces heavier than the top of the line Patriarch XT. Many of its components are of heavier material, such as aluminum, rather than lighter carbon or magnesium in the top end models. You will notice this difference in weight after a long day on the water.
Where the Pflueger Trion Shines
I consider a Pflueger Trion to be one of the best spinning reels that you can buy if you are a beginner. They’re also very good reels for children. For one thing, they have reasonable features such as the 7 bearing system and aren’t ridiculously heavy at 10.40 ounces for a size 35, and 6.30 for the size 20 (which is much better for small children).
Another important consideration is price. While this is always going to be subject to change as you might find a sale here and there, they are one of the more affordable reels out there and you can buy several of them for the price of one Patriarch, for example. This makes them a good choice for anyone who wants to build an arsenal, and also allows for some “collateral damage” while your kids are learning. Note: spinning reels + children + sandy bank = disaster.
While I don’t think it’s fair to call this fishing reel “cheap,” there is quite a difference between it and the more expensive reels I’ll discuss further below.
If you’re interested in checking out the current price for the Pflueger Trion, you may do so at Amazon’s link for the product, found here.
Pflueger President
The Pflueger President is the “workhorse” of my arsenal of fishing reels. I like them so much that they’ve made me seriously question if more expensive fishing reels are actually worth it. The President does such a great job for me! A few of their stats for consideration:
Weight: 10.70 ounces (size 35)
Gear Ratio: 5.2:1
10 bearing system (20 size reel is a 7 ball bearing system)
Graphite body and rotor
Braid ready spool
Sealed drag system
Slow oscillation gearing
Aluminum handle
Soft touch knob
Aluminum bail
While the 10.70 ounces is .30 ounces heavier than the Trion, that’s a pretty imperceptible difference that buys you a lot of options.
For one, this reel comes with a spool that is ready for braid. If you look at the spool in the photo above you’ll notice two little black rubber lines running vertically. These prevent your braided line from slipping. This eliminates the need to “back” your spool with monofilament, so you can tie braid directly on without issues. I suppose that’s a nice option to have, but I’d still recommend you learn to tie a double uni knot and use a mono backing to save money.
I do want to come back to the weight for one more moment. Remember that I’m posting the size 35 weight. This is a very popular size of spinning reel but I do favor the 30 because I like to keep the weight down. The President’s size 30 weight is 8.80 or almost two full ounces lighter. This is a very comfortable reel to fish.
Who Should Buy the Pflueger President
Again, this is the main fishing reel in my rodbox. I’d estimate a good 70% of the fishing rods I own have a Pflueger President on them. I’ve put these on my children’s rods as well in size 20 as they pair up great with an Ugly Stik Elite.
I think these reels are a bit more durable than the Triumph. I don’t know if it is the sealed drag system or what, but they seem to stand up better. It also might just be a case of the extra three ball bearings making it seem smoother, however.
The only issue I’ve had with these is that they, like all spinning reels, will eventually have the bail wear out on you if you don’t manually flip it. As these reels are good for beginners and children, that doesn’t usually happen so I have had a few that wore out. I just switch those over to “my” rods as this is a non-issue for me given I manually flip mine (so it doesn’t matter if it fails to automatically flip).
The Pflueger President is a popular fishing reel and a good choice for beginners and kids. You get a few more options than the entry level Trion but it’s still inexpensive. You can check the best price at Amazon here.
Pflueger Lady President
Please leave me a comment if I’ve missed something, but as far as I can tell, the only differences between the Lady President and the regular President are the color and the fact that the Lady President comes in less sizes.
I bought one for my wife because she thinks it’s pretty. All of the information I wrote about its twin applies to this as well. This is a good reel for the price. If you prefer this color, you can find the Lady President for sale at Amazon here.
Pflueger Arbor
I only have one Pflueger Arbor so I don’t have the same experience with this model as the others. It’s obvious difference is the arbor spool which has a larger diameter than regular spools. This is touted as being better for fluorocarbon as that line tends to have high “memory” (meaning, it will spiral and take on the shape of spools). Having a larger diameter makes this less prevalent or problematic than a narrow diameter spool.
Some specifications:
Weight: 8.80 ounces (size 35)
Gear Ratio: 4.3:1
8 Bearing System
Hybrid Body
Aluminum Spool
Sealed Carbon Drag
Aluminum Handle
Large Arbor Design
Soft Touch Knob
Who Should Buy the Pflueger Arbor
Note that the hybrid body and smaller spool contribute to a better weight. Another thing to notice is that it has a lower gear ration than many other reels in this list at 4.3:1. This is going to make it a better option for lures like crankbaits that are better fished with lower gear ratios (that the Arbor is also great for fluorocarbon lines, which are often used with crankbaits, doesn’t hurt). If this all sounds like a good match for you, you can purchase the Pflueger Arbor at Amazon by following this link.
Pflueger President XT
Here we start moving past the entry level spinning reels and more into the mid-range. The Pflueger President XT is a step above the President in most ways as you can see from the stats below:
Weight: 9.10 ounces (size 35)
Gear Ratios: 5.2:1 or 6.2:1
10 bearing system (20 size reel is a 7 ball bearing system)
Aluminum main shaft
Aluminum pinion gear
Braid ready spool
Sealed drag system
Rubber cork knobs
I picked up one of these reels for my father’s spinnerbait rod. He’s getting a little older and it is a chore to reel in a spinnerbait as fast as he can over and over again. As the Pflueger President XT is one of the few spinning reels that comes in a faster gear ratio (6.2:1), I thought it would work out well for this purpose (the fact that I was matching it to a custom red fishing rod for him didn’t hurt, either).
I’m not sold on the rubber cork knobs but that’s a matter of taste. I suppose if I fished in the rain more often I’d come to appreciate them more. I just don’t do that much since having kids.
Who Should Buy the President XT
All in all, I’d look at a President XT as almost the equivalent of a St. Croix Avid Series rod. Once you start going above this, the law of diminishing returns starts to kick in. For example, the next reel up is only .30 ounces lighter. The President XT might be the better buy if you want to build an arsenal of midgrade reels. You can find further details and purchase the President XT here.
Pflueger Supreme
The Pflueger Supreme is another reel that I’d consider “mid-range” from Pflueger. It is a bit of an upgrade over the President XT. For example, it’s the first class in Pflueger’s lineup that has a magnesium body and rotor for weight reduction.
Weight: 8.80 ounces (size 35)
Gear Ratios: 5.2:1 or 6.2:1
9 Bearing System
Magnesium Body and Rotor
Braid Ready Spool
Stainless Steel/Oil Felt Drag
Aluminum Handle
Soft Touch Knob
Slow Oscillation Gearing
Who Should Buy the Pflueger Supreme
Just as with the President XT, the Pflueger Supreme is a good choice for someone who doesn’t want an entry level reel but also doesn’t want to go all out. You’ll definitely be able to tell some differences between this relatively expensive fishing reel and some of its cheaper cousins, and might come to appreciate them. The fact that it is almost two ounces lighter than the Trion being a prime example. You can pick up one of these for yourself and read more reviews at its product link on Amazon.
Pflueger Supreme XT
I have a confession to make. I bought this exclusively for its orange color. You see, I picked up a St. Croix Legend Glass spinning rod earlier this year and thought a rod of that caliber deserved an appropriately high-end matching reel. Given that the Supreme XT is orange and the Legend Glass is kind of an Amber color, I think they go quite well together.
Color aside, this is a high-end, expensive fishing reel well worth mounting on a high-end, expensive fishing rod such as the Legend Glass. Here are some stats:
Weight: 8.00 ounces (size 35)
Gear Ratios: 5.2:1 or 6.2:1
10 Bearing System
Magnesium Body and Rotor
Braid Ready Spool
Sealed Carbon Drag
Carbon Handle
EVA Knob
Slow Oscillation Gearing
I really like this combo. It looks good, fishes smoothly, and can cast crankbaits a mile. The rod is 5.1 ounces so all in we’re talking 13.1 ounces. I could fish this combo all day. I’ve already linked to where you can purchase the rod up above and if you want to match it to a great, high-class fishing reel, pick up your own Pflueger Supreme XT today.
Pflueger Patriarch
This is the favorite spinning reel that I own, but it’s so expensive that I only have one. I have a size 30 Pflueger Patriarch paired with a St. Croix Legend Elite 7′ ML/F spinning rod that I use for drop shots. It is without any doubt my favorite combo. A look at some of its stats should tell you why:
Weight: 7.30 ounces (size 35)
10 Bearing System
XCR Ball Bearings
Magnesium Body and Rotor
Machined aluminum main gear
Slow Oscillation
Skeletonized Spool
Sealed Carbon Drag
Carbon Handle
Carbon Arbor
Titanium Main Shaft
This is an exceptionally light weight yet powerful reel that has allowed me to catch some true monsters. The drag system works beautifully, which allowed me to catch this carp. I was using 6lb test at the time and fishing with a thin wire drop shot hook. The chances of this fish pulling the hook out or breaking the line would have been tremendous without the help of my Patriarch.
I would have lost this fish if not for my Pfueger Patriarch.
I truly can’t recommend this fishing reel enough. Catching the carp above on such light line and hook firmly convinced me that expensive fishing reels are worth every penny. The only downside is the reel is so expensive that I would be very careful about where I took it and how I set it down as I wouldn’t want it to get dirty or ruined. In any event, the price of this reel makes having it repaired/cleaned worthwhile.
Who Should Buy the Pflueger Patriarch
If you’re the kind of angler who demands the best equipment, the Pflueger Patriarch is for you. Though this isn’t cheap (in fact, I’d call it downright expensive), there is a clear difference between it and lower-priced fishing reels. I really enjoy this reel but do think it would be out of place paired with a lower-quality rod.
If you’re interested in picking up one of these for yourself (and you should definitely be interested in it), you can find them at Amazon here.
Pflueger Patriarch XT
As I said above I don’t actually own this reel. It seems quite similar to the regular Patriarch but adds a bearing and cuts down its weight by .10 ounces in the size 35 option.
Weight: 7.20 ounces (size 35)
11 Bearing System
Magnesium Body and Rotor
Machined aluminum main gear
Slow Oscillation
One piece bail wire
Skeletonized Spool
Sealed Carbon Drag
Carbon Handle
Titanium Main Shaft
Carbon Arbor
From what I can see, reviews are quite favorable towards this reel. You can find them and more information on the reel in general at Pflueger’s wesbite.
Are More Expensive Baitcasting Reels Better Than Cheaper Ones?
So far this entire article has focused on the differences between cheap and expensive spinning fishing reels and has made no mention of baitcasters. That was done deliberately as I have a good familiarity with the Pflueger brand and thought an apples to apples comparison would suffice.
I can’t do that with baitcasters for a few reasons, but the primary one is that I don’t recommend buying a cheap baitcaster, period. This just invites trouble. Let’s explore why.
More Expensive Baitcasters TEND to Have Better Braking Systems
There are several differences between cheap and expensive baitcasting fishing reels, but the primary one is going to be their braking system. A better braking system (and specifically, a dual braking system) will make casting much easier. This is important, because baitcasters aren’t that easy to use. It has been said by many before me that it’s well worth buying a more expensive baitcasting fishing reel than a cheaper option for this reason.
A “Better” Baitcaster MAY Have More Options
Another difference between a cheap baitcasting fishing reel and a more expensive one is that the more expensive one “may” have more options. What I mean by this is that they’re more likely to come in left hand retrieve and more likely to have a wide range of gear ratios and retrieval speeds to fit a larger range of presentations.
This is because most people who are buying expensive fishing equipment such as reels have particular needs. When you get into the higher-end stuff, it is usually purchased to fulfill a specific combo for a precise technique. A reel that works well for crankbaits might not be as great for spinnerbaits. Thus, the more expensive the fishing reel, the more likely the manufacturer offers several models to fulfill this wide range of purposes.
Apples to Oranges: A Few Baitcasters I Have Used
I can’t give you the same “apples to apples” comparison with baitcasters that I did with spinning reels, but I can at least set you on the right course if you’re looking to purchase your first one. This is because I own baitcasters from several different companies rather than one company’s lineup.
Pro Qualifier
This fishing reel is exclusive from Bass Pro Shops and is widely considered the best baitcaster for beginners because its one of the few reels with a dual breaking system that can be had for less than $100 (when on sale, which is often). It comes in left and right hand retrieves and a number of gear ratios.
This is an older Pro Qualifier. They now make the Pro Qualifier 2, which is blue.
As mentioned above, one nice thing about this reel is that it often goes on sale well below its standard asking price. Great times of year to buy it include the annual spring sale that coincides with the Bassmaster Classic and any normal holiday. I’ve seen these listed as much as 50% off at times which makes them a steal. I would not recommend paying full price for this reel ever as it is probably just a matter of weeks to months before you can get one at a steep discount.
Abu Garcia Revo STX
I purchased an Abu Garcia Revo STX in the hopes of finding an “upgrade” from my Pro Qualifiers. While the Revo STX is certainly more expensive, I’m not quite sure it is that big of a difference. The weight of the STX is 7.3 ounces which is the same as the Pro Qualifier 2. It does come in a higher gear ratio, topping out at 8.0:1 compared to the 7.5:1 in the Pro Qualifier.
I only own one of these and am not sold that it is “that” much different than the Pro Qualifier despite having a base cost that is considerably more, to say nothing of the sales the other reel provides.
Pflueger Patriarch Baitcasting Reel
I own two Pflueger Patriarch baitcasting reels that I have matched with a St. Croix Legend Tournament and St. Croix Legend Xtreme casting rods. I bought this reel mostly out of brand loyalty with Pflueger and because I wanted to match these high-end fishing rods with comprable reels. Given the St. Croix Legend Xtreme and Pflueger Patriarch are flagship models for their respective brands, I figured I couldn’t go wrong.
To be completely candid, I’m not totally sold on liking this better than the Pro Qualifer. Apparently, I wasn’t alone as it doesn’t appear that Pflueger even offers this model anymore. (Please drop me an email if you notice that this changes so I can update things, but as of writing, it has disappeared from their website). I had a hard time getting this reel to cast as far as my Pro Qualifiers, but then again I rarely needed to as I primarily use these setups for flipping jigs and creature baits at nearby targets.
What About Spincast or Fly Reels?
I hate to say this but I don’t fly fish so if you want information on whether or not expensive fly reels are truly worth it, you’re going to have to look elsewhere. I did find this interesting article that tackles the subject and seems to have good advice. It breaks down what makes an expensive fly fishing reel worth the money and I’d recommend you check it out. The author makes some colorful points as well, which is always fun.
As to spincast reels… I don’t like them, I don’t use them, I don’t teach my children to use them, and if you see a professional fisherman using them, in my opinion, they’re doing it to be cute. With that said, again, here is an external link to an article that breaks down a few of these reels, some approaching $100 for reasons entirely unknown to me.
Other Random Questions About Fishing Reels
While I’m at it, I thought it would be good to answer a few of the more common questions about fishing reels, specifically those having to do with their size. After all, there’s little sense investing in an expensive fishing reel that is the wrong size.
If you see a question that I haven’t answered, go ahead and leave a comment and I’ll update the post with an answer. One I won’t answer is if you can mix spinning reels and casting rods and vice versa, as I already discussed that at length in this post.
Should You Buy a Used Fishing Reel?
I would emphatically state that you shouldn’t buy a used fishing reel unless you are very confident you are able to fix it. Unlike rods, which can be purchased used with few issues, fishing reels are hard to judge by a photo on the internet. I’ve tried buying a few online and have often been disappointed.
With spinning reels, you have no idea if the person you bought it from knows to manually flip the bail or not, so you might be buying one with a weakened bail spring. It is also possible that it hasn’t been cleaned sufficiently from season to season. Neither of these are readily apparent via a photo.
An Exception: Good Deals Can Be Had on Baitcasters
I would make an exception to this rule with baitcasters simply because I think the odds of you getting a lightly used one are very good. Many a person has tried their hand at a baitcaster only to become frustrated and give up before they could learn it. You can get some phenomenal deals by remembering the motto, “his loss, my gain.”
With that said, it’s not as though there can be no issues with buying used baitcasters. You still have no idea how well it was maintained. I’m just saying, if it looks brand new, there’s a good chance it practically is.
What Is The Difference Between Fishing Reel Sizes?
Most baitcasters don’t come in different “sizes,” however spinning reels do. There are many schools of thought about what size reel you should buy. It boils down to what you need to use the reel for. Generally speaking, larger reels can hold larger diameter line, and more of it.
You can generally find the manufacturer’s recommendations for line size on their websites. Take these with a grain of salt as they are often wrong. For example, on Pflueger’s site they list the braided line capacity of a size 30 President spinning reel as 160 yards of 10lb test compared to a monofilament capacity of 130 yards of 8lb test. 10lb test braid is actually equivalent in diameter to about 2lb monofilament (source). 30lb Braid is the equivalent of 8lb monofilament.
How Do I Know What Size Fishing Reel to Buy?
In order to determine what size fishing reel you should buy, you need to identify what you’re going to use it for. Below is a chart with my recommendations.
Fishing Reel Size
Uses
20
Best for smaller children or ultralight rods. Good for pursuing panfish.
25
A good sized reel for spinnerbaits for younger kids. I have my five-year-old’s spinnerbait rod equipped with a reel in this size.
30
This is a good all around reel size that is comfortable to use. I favor this size personally as I like to keep weight down.
35
This is likely the standard size most people use. Many professionals prefer a little bit larger spinning reel. It allows for a more powerful drag setting often which can be important if you want to get more fish in the boat.
40+
Works well for larger gamefish where you want to put heavier line on. There’s a point where the line becomes so heavy that you’re better off with a baitcaster, however.
How Do You Match A Reel to a Rod?
You want to do the best you can to balance a comparable reel class to rod, but perhaps more importantly is ensuring you’re matching size as shown above. It would bed weird to have a Pflueger Trion in size 40 paired with a medium light Legend Elite.
I’ve prepared the following table that attempts to match a St. Croix Rod to an appropriate Pflueger fishing reel. These will balance well and would be my “ideal” match.
Please note I’m using spinning reels in these examples. If you’re interested in learning more about these fine fishing rods, check out this article.
St. Croix Rod Series
Pflueger Spinning Reel
Triumph
Trion, President
Premier
Trion, President
Mojo Bass
President
Avid
President XT
Avid Pearl
President XT (colors match well)
Legend Tournament
Supreme, Supreme XT
Legend Glass
Supreme, Supreme XT (colors match well)
Legend Elite
Patriarch
Legend Xtreme
Patriarch, Patriarch XT
This is a match made in heaven. It balances perfectly and is a great color combo.
Conclusions: Expensive Fishing Reels ARE Worth It
I trust that when you purchase your first expensive fishing reel you’ll immediately be able to tell the difference between it and a cheaper model. More expensive models are certainly worth their price when you consider that they are lighter, have better components including drag systems, and tend to balance well with higher end rods. You’ll find that you enjoy your time more on the water and probably catch a few fish that a less advanced reel would have lost.
With that being said, I really am a believer in the Pflueger products I listed above. I truly do use the President as my “main” reel. It works well given that I have small, excitable children prone to dropping it constantly, and I’ve caught my share of large fish with them. Thus, while expensive fishing reels are “worth it,” they aren’t necessary to have a good time or to be successful.
I hope you found this article, and its companion article on rods helpful. If you did, I’d like to invite you to join my Facebook group so I can keep you up to date with new posts and fishing reports.
If you’re learning to fish one of the first questions you’ll have is what lures catch what fish? There are so many options that it can be tough if someone doesn’t walk you through. In this article I’ll discuss what the best types of fishing lures are to use for any particular job, as well as what makes a good fishing lure in the first place.
Simply put, every species of fish out there will chomp on any object that they perceive as food if it is small enough to fit in their mouth. Therefore, technically speaking, all lures will catch all fish. However, some lures are definitely better than others depending on what species you are targeting. For example, certain species like northern pike are very likely to break your line if you use lures that don’t have any kind of guard against their teeth. Likewise, other lures like giant jerkbaits are unlikely to be attacked by all but the pluckiest of panfish.
Use this article as a guide, but not a be-all-end-all. Sometimes, the best thing you can do is show the fish something they haven’t seen before, so never be afraid to “think outside the tackle box!” Also, bear in mind that this article will deal specifically with fishing lures. If you’re curious if you should use live bait instead, read this article.
The Best Lure for the Job at a Glance
Below you’ll find a handy table that will help you understand what lures to use for what fish. In the first column you’ll find the type of fishing lure. In the second, the primary species of fish the lure will catch (note that an “*” denotes the fish is likely to cut the line without a leader on this technique). Finally, I break down whether or not I feel the lure is easy for a beginner or child to use.
Following this table, I will provide a detailed analysis of each lure, explain why I ranked it as “easy,” “moderate,” or “difficult” to use, and offer recommendations on which ones you should buy.
Could catch everything, or nothing. Often, nothing.
Varies.
You’ll note a lot of asterisks above. Some lures, such as spinnerbaits, have built-in protection against toothy predators. Others, like crankbaits, are very likely to be cut by northern pike and chain pickerel.
The Lures in More Detail
Here I’ll discuss each lure or presentation in more detail to help you make a decision if it is one that you’d like to purchase. I’ll also recommend a product if I have used it and particularly believe in it.
Note that there are hundreds if not thousands of options for each of these lures so don’t feel as though you need to purchase what I recommend. I’m just offering some help on what works well to try and cut through the fog a bit and clear a path for you.
I’m also going to write a bit about why I consider certain techniques “easy,” “moderate,” or “difficult” for beginners or kids. This is purely subjective but is based on my observations over the years and basically boils down to how easy the lure is to use without getting it snagged or fouled, and how much action one must input in the technique. Generally speaking, the more finesse or technique a lure requires, the less suitable it is for beginners or children.
Spinnerbaits
I don’t care what kind of freshwater fish you’re seeking, a spinnerbait is one of the best lures to catch them. They are easy to use, fairly weedless, and offer at least some protection from sharp teeth right out of the box.
All you need to do to catch fish with them is find a bay with submerged weeds and start tossing them out, and reeling them in. I’ve found if you twitch your rod now and then to give your spinnerbait a little “pop” it really helps trigger strikes.
Spinnerbaits are a great lure for catching largemouth bass, northern pike, and chain pickerel. The latter two rarely bite the line while throwing these as the bent wire frame in front of the spinnerbait offers a bit of a distance from the hook and some protection for the line.
There are thousands of these lures out there and almost all are good. I’ve highlighted a Strike King Bleeding Bait above because it is reasonably priced and durable. Here’s a photo of a fish caught with one to show you I actually use these products!
Not a giant, but any fish is a good fish!
Buzzbait
A buzzbait works similarly to a spinnerbait in that you toss it out and reel it in. The difference between the two is while a spinnerbait typically is retrieved submerged, a buzzbait is meant to skim along the surface of the water as a topwater lure. Because of this topwater nature, I’ve rated this lure as “moderate” difficulty. To be candid, however, it is one of the easier topwater lures to use, because fish tend to hook themselves on the first strike. All the same, you need to start reeling in almost immediately once it hits the water, and this can be difficult for kids especially to do.
Buzzbaits are interesting in that they’re one of the few lures that actually seem to get better as they get worn out. You want these things squeaking and rattling and generally causing a great commotion as they go through the water. Older joints and attachments work much better for this. This is one lure you should be happy if your kids beat up.
Swim Jig
Even those these are jigs I’d rate them as considerably easier to use than true “bass jigs” described further below. This is because a swim jig is meant to be retrieved quickly through the water, just like a spinnerbait and buzzbait above. This makes them easy to use for beginners and kids as all you need to do is cast and retrieve.
Swim jigs work well in a bit thicker cover than spinnerbaits can handle. The blades on a spinnerbait will often get snarled with weeds that a swimjig will pass right through.
A downside to swimjigs is that they lack the wire frame of spinnerbaits. This means they have absolutely no protection between the hook and the line, so pike and pickerel ravage them. But for this reason, I’d have them tied on much more frequently.
Crankbait
Crankbaits aren’t that difficult of a lure to catch fish on, but I still rated them as “moderate” because they need to be used under specific conditions. They have treble hooks which makes them a poor choice for kids. As most models dive, these can be very difficult to use along weed beds.
Crankbaits come in many models which dive to various depths. I mostly fish the shallows so I favor square bill crankbaits such as the one shown above. If you fish deeper water, they make cranks that will dive to 20+ feet on the retrieve.
These lures are meant to be cast and retrieved, though they do draw many strikes when there is some interruption. Many anglers deliberately drive them towards cover to get their crankbait to bump it, hopefully drawing a strike. Because the lure dives, it is angled in such a way that (theoretically) the hooks will be protected from the cover. This works 100% of the time 50% of the time.
You’re going to want to buy a good lure retriever if you use crankbaits! These are tools that are designed to follow your line down to your lure and then pop it off whatever it is stuck on. I keep one in my boat and it paid for itself the first trip. I recommend the Frabill 15 Foot Telescoping Fishing Lure Retriever. As its name indicates, it telescopes up to 15 feet which is good for getting most crankbaits that are stuck. This is going to be something more useful in a boat, but even on shore, most crankbaits will get stuck within reach.
Drop Shot
I write about the drop shot often on this website. I am a firm believer that it should be the first technique you use when introducing children to fishing. This technique works great with the best kids fishing rods. They are also easy to tie, versatile, and is the type of lure that will catch a wide variety of fish in all sizes. I have caught everything from a 2″ sunfish to 20lb carp on a drop shot rig.
The hook above is made by Gamakatsu. It’s a good brand and one I trust. If you use too thin of a hook on your drop shot and run into a larger fish, it could be bent, so I wouldn’t skimp there. You can, however, skimp on what weight you use, as you will often lose the sinker. I would use the least expensive ones that I could find in appropriate size (use the smallest ones you can get away with).
To fish a drop shot for panfish, all you need to do is cast it out and wait. If you were anywhere near them in the first place it won’t be long before they take a nibble. This makes this a good lure to explore with, as you’ll quickly be able to tell if a certain area holds fish.
One of the easiest lures out there to use is a plastic worm. This lure will catch just about any fish that sees it and can fit it in its mouth. The only downside is that if the fish that happens along has sharp teeth, it’s very likely your line will be cut.
Plastic worms can be rigged in a variety of ways. You can rig them weedless, such as via a Texas Rig, or you can rig them “wacky style” which lets them fall awkwardly (fish would say enticingly) through the water.
When using a Texas Rig, you tend to hop the worm along the bottom through cover like you would a jig. Wack rigged worms are intended to splash down and then fall vertically, with fish often biting it on the descent. If you get no bite on the initial fall, lift your rod tip up to bring the worm towards you and then lower it to let it fall again. Reel in your slack and repeat.
Because all you need to do is let the worm fall, and bass often home in on it immediately, plastic worms are one of the best types of fishing lures for smaller kids to learn on.
Jerkbait
Jerk baits are hands-down one of my favorite techniques. I first learned how to use them on a fishing charter with Captain Mick over at Lake Champlain Angler. The jerkbait in the photo above is an X-Rap by Rapala and is the first jerk bait I used.
These cast a mile, are extremely durable, and catch a ton of fish. You use them by retrieving them in a cadenced series of jerks such as “twitch…twitch…pause….twitch…twitch…pause” until you figure out the rhythm and pattern that the fish want that day.
My wife with a nice smallmouth bass. Note the x-rap jerkbait in the lower left corner.
Jerkbaits work all year round as they mimic dying or distressed baitfish, but they’re mostly known as an early-spring lure. Part of this, I imagine, is because they will pick up weeds very easily later in the year, so there simply isn’t as much water that you can fish them with as summer goes on.
They are dynamite vs. spawning smallmouth and huge northerns will crush them too. Frankly, you can expect to catch just about any kind of fish on this lure. I’ve had perch not much bigger than them crush them.
The only downside is their hooks are sharp and plentiful. In addition to catching all the weeds I discussed above, they’re also known to snag anglers. Thus, they aren’t a good fishing lure for a small child or beginner.
Bass Jig
If there is one lure I’m going to catch grief for defining as “difficult” it is the bass jig. This lure is one of the most popular out there and nothing that common can be difficult, right? Well, if you judge by the number of folks scouring fishing forums seeking help using these, I’d beg to differ.
While jigs are extremely versatile, they do rely heavily on feel which can be difficult for someone just starting out, especially if you don’t have proper equipment like sensitive rods. This is because you need to determine if that pressure you suddenly feel is a fish, twig, rock or leaf all in a split second. It’s far easier said than done.
Regardless, you should invest some time learning these eventually as you’ll often catch your biggest fish of the year on them. They tend to be large offerings that have skirts that flair out making them look even bigger. Big bass absolutely crush these.
To use a bass jig you’re usually going to hop or crawl it along the bottom s.l.o.w.l.y., but occasionally fish want a faster presentation. Be aware that many strikes will come as the lure falls through the water.
Don’t be afraid to throw jigs into nasty cover. Their brush guards do a good job of helping them come back home, often with some lunker attached.
The jig in the picture above comes with a rattling sound chamber which is handy if you fish stained or murky water, which I often find myself doing on Lake Champlain. If you’re fishing clearer water, you might want to select a model that is silent.
Roundhead Jig
One of the first lures Dad tied on for me was a roundhead jig with a straight tail grub attached to it. We used to drift along the shores of Lake Champlain near Bridport, Vermont casting these out and reeling them in with little “pops.” We would catch a ton of smallmouth and largemouth bass.
Roundhead jigs come in a large variety of weights and hook size. The smaller ones are great for panfish. Larger ones are a good lure for walleye and bass.
You can tip these with anything you want. Dad favored straight tailed grubs, and marabou feathers (shown above). Other anglers prefer live bait, or artificial minnows.
These can be hopped along the bottom or horizontally retrieved like a spinnerbait. Both work well for catching fish, but you’re best bet is to combine the two. Reel in the jig while popping your rod up and down to give it some action. The fish love it!
A downside to this lure is that it can easily be bitten off by pike and pickerel. Luckily, roundhead jigs come in packs and aren’t that expensive.
Swimbait
Swimbaits come in many styles. The one pictured above is a soft plastic designed to be threaded onto a swimbait hook. You can also find ones that feature photo realistic paint jobs and look just like live fish. I don’t use these because they’re too expensive for my taste, especially since my waters are filled with northern pike and pickerel. Some folks swear by them and claim they are one of the best types of fishing lures for large bass.
Swimbaits are typically used by throwing them out and then reeling them back in. I favor the soft plastic type above as it can be rigged weedless and thrown into the shallow flats I frequent. The more expensive model that I linked has treble hooks and would need more open water.
While the fluke looks much like the swimbait above, it is mean to be worked more like a jerk bait. The same “twitch…twitch…pause….twitch…twitch…pause” cadence will work here, though you’ll want to be softer with it when working a fluke as there isn’t as much bait to use.
You can rig these weightless and fish right near the top of the water, or add some weight to it and have it sink down a bit. These work well in areas where you want the look of a distressed bait fish, but can’t get a jerkbait through do to the weeds.
Popper
Poppers are one of the easier topwater lures to use, but I still rated them as “moderate” because it might take you a few tries before you catch anything. Many people get too excited seeing the fish suddenly crash through the water and so they jerk the rod back before the fish is hooked. Try to count “one-thousand-one” after you see the splash before you set the hook. This will help increase your hookups.
These lures are best used early in the morning or later in the evening. You’re looking for a low light situation where the fish are cruising shallow water.
There are many companies that make poppers but I favor the old standard Rebel Pop-R shown above. This lure has a long history of catching fish and I can attest that it works. I’ve tried other models from other brands and while many cast farther, I just haven’t had the same success as with the Pop-R. Perhaps it’s placebo but you have to roll with what you trust.
Because poppers tend to have multiple treble hooks, they can be a poor choice when fishing with kids.
Hollow Bodied Frog
I love fishing with hollow bodied frogs. I also hate fishing with them. These lures will drive you absolutely crazy.
What frogs can also do is catch enormous bass. These are top water lures that lead to some spectacular moments. You’ll see bass propel themselves out of the lily pads like great white sharks going after your lure. Unfortunately, they’ll miss it a fair amount of time. Until you get the hang of things, you’ll miss the hookset even more!
Frogs are also one of the best lures to use if you’re fishing in heavy cover. Most models float (until a pickerel tears them up) and are entirely weedless. You can throw them into the densest of cover without worrying about getting stuck.
Unfortunately, hollow bodied frogs require very specialized equipment. You’ll need a stout rod with heavy or extra heavy power, and at least 50lb braid (most recommend 65lb). Because of this, you’re talking baitcaster territory. When I was just getting started fishing I tried fishing with frogs in a loaded pond with a medium spinning rod and monofilament. I had the most frustrating day of fishing in my life as I must have had 50-60 bass and pickerel blow up on them and didn’t land a single fish. I went straight home and bought a baitcaster!
For these reasons, I consider frogs to be a very poor choice of lure when fishing with kids. You can read me rant more about that here.
Spoon
Spoons are almost forgotten nowadays, but when my grandfather was plying the waters, they were the main lure out there. They work very well casting for northern pike and can be trolled for salmon and lake trout.
If casting, you can try a straight retrieve or “flutter” it by raising your rod tip up high and then dropping it quickly. Reel in the slack as the spoon flutters down. As with many presentations, many strikes will come on the fall.
Consider using a wire leader with a spoon as northern pike love them and will break you off if they take the lure too deep.
Creature Bait
Creature baits are almost a blend of jigs and plastic worms. They’re soft plastics that you can rig on a jig head or with most types of worm hooks. You can fish them the same way you fish either of those techniques. If you rig them Texas style, then they can be very weedless and good lures for throwing into heavy cover.
I rank them as a difficult lure to use right there with jigs because they do take a bit of getting used to before you understand if a fish bit. Once you get the hang of things, they can make for a very fun day.
“Gimmick”
Remember at the start of this article how I told you that sometimes it’s worth showing the fish something they’ve never seen before? Well, manufacturers feel the same way about fishermen. It seems like every year there is some crazy lure coming out that’s just different than anything anyone has ever seen before or used.
That’s not to say they don’t work. After all, every fishing lure known to man started off its first season as a “gimmick.” Some have stood the test of time, and then… Well… Some didn’t.
If you’re an early adopter you can rush out and buy these and try them. Sometimes this work very well. While I wouldn’t call a variation on a jerkbait a “gimmick” persay, Rapala came out with a new jerkbait several years ago (I want to say 2015) called the Shadow Rap. It had a unique action that was different than their other jerkbaits, and the first year I threw it, I lit them up. The point is, the fish had never seen it and weren’t wary of it. I couldn’t keep them out of the boat. Chances are the fish haven’t seen a “true” gimmicky lure either, so you might fill your livewell!
Oh, and full disclosure, I don’t own the duck lure above, but after looking at it, I’m itching to! The Bait Monkey is REAL!
What Makes A Good Fishing Lure in the First Place?
Above I provided several examples of different fishing lures that you could purchase via the affiliate links I posted. While I won’t claim they’re the only brands or designs that work, I do believe in them and feel they make solid choices.
Works Well For Intended Use
Use a lure that is going to catch whatever species of fish you’re seeking. If your lure won’t do that, it can’t be considered “good,” at least not for the job at hand.
You also need to consider if that crankbait you just tied on is really best for the area and conditions. If you’re near many weeds growing right to the top, you’re going to spend more of your time cleaning your hooks than fishing.
Finally, “think of the children.” If you’re out fishing with kids, the best types of fishing lures to use are going to be the ones that are easiest for them to handle.
Durability
In my mind, a good fishing lure needs to be durable. These things take a lot of abuse. They are cast far and wide, smashing down into the water, if you’re lucky, or tree branches if you aren’t. Once submerged, they will bang against rocks, laydowns, and other structure. They’ll snag lillypads and brush and need to be ripped loose. Not to mention, they might be bit – a lot if they’re any good!
I prefer to purchase lures that will hold up to some abuse. For example, the x-rap that I recommended above in the jerkbait section is the kind of lure that can last an entire day. It is a durable jerkbait that is well manufactured and features strong hooks. About the worst thing that might happen is its tail feathers could take a little trim, but it will catch fish without them, anyway.
In contrast, the shadow rap I mentioned above in the gimmicks section is not nearly as durable. While it too is a jerkbait (and an impressively effective one at that), it features extremely thin wire hooks that hold up to nothing, frankly. If you’re headed to the lake with a shadow rap tied on, you’d better have replacement hooks.
In fairness, however, the hooks bend when fish bite and you’ll be replacing bent hooks often as the fish really do seem to love that lure. Nothing against it – just warning you that it won’t hold up as well as an x-rap.
Reasonable Prices
A good fishing lure ought to be reasonably priced. There are plenty of extremely expensive fishing lures out there, but then again there are plenty of northern pike too. The two need only cross paths once for your lure to be gone. I don’t know about you, but I go fishing to relax and don’t want to worry if I can make rent when I get back.
Because prices often fluctuate I’m uncomfortable listing what any of the lures above go for today, but I will tell you that none of the lures I recommended above are anywhere near the most expensive models in their respective categories. I fish far too many pike-filled waters to bother with that!
Runs Right From the Box
I know I’ll catch some flak for this because many fishermen would tell you that nearly “no” lures run just right out of the box, but they ought to be pretty close. Most name brands do a fair job with this but if you’re purchasing knock off lures on the internet you often get what you paid for.
Companies pay engineers a lot of money to help design their fishing lures, so it is important they run right and as intended. If not, you need to do some tweaking or tuning. You’ll be able to tell they aren’t running right because they’ll pull to one side or the other. This usually also means they’ll have an unnatural look and won’t catch as many fish until you do something about it.
Don’t give up on a brand just because you needed to do some tuning. Most are going to have slight variations that can be easily fixed. Much of this information is readily available on the internet. Perhaps one day I’ll draft an article of my own addressing it, but until then, wired2fish has a great article about how to tune crankbaits.
Conclusion – What Type of Lure You Should Choose
As you can see, you have many choices when it comes to figuring out what type of lure to use to catch a certain kind of fish. If you’re just getting started, I’d recommend sticking to the lures I think are easy for beginners and kids to use:
Spinnerbait
Buzzbait
Swimjig
Drop Shot
Plastic Worm
Once you get comfortable throwing these you can move up to those that are rated as moderately difficult before eventually trying some of the more difficult lures I listed.
Or, you could live on the wild side, go crazy at your local sporting goods store, and fish like there is no tomorrow! (Just don’t tell your significant other I told you to).
If you do decide to take it easy and have a little cash lying around, consider picking up a copy of my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide, for yourself. If you liked the tips you found in this article, I trust you’ll enjoy the book as well.
Fishermen will try some pretty fantastic things to gain an edge out there on the water, including using a common household item in some very interesting ways. Some fishermen use WD-40 to clean their reels, others spray it on their fishing line, and many even swear it works if you spray it on lures as a fish attractant. The question, though, is are these people onto something, or just nuts?
While I’m not going to claim to be a scientist or lawyer, I did some research for this article and concluded that you’re better off just buying a dedicated reel cleaner, line spray or fish attractant. That way you don’t have to worry about damaging your gear, polluting your lake, or suffering legal consequences.
I would be very happy to find that none of my readers continued using WD-40 as a fish attractant, line conditioner, or reel cleaner after reading this post. Let’s explore why.
Is It Illegal to Use WD-40 on Fishing Lures?
From what I can tell, it depends, but I sure wouldn’t risk it. Some people have reported receiving very hefty fines for being caught using WD-40 on their fishing lures, whereas other state governments are apparently fine with it (source). Bear in mind that just because a state government is OK with something doesn’t make it a good idea.
You would probably want to consult with a licensed legal professional to see if it is legal in your neck of the woods, or on a particular water body. In fact, if you read Section 311 (b) (1) of the Clean Water Act, it would seem it is illegal to use WD-40 in “navigable waters:”
“(b)(1) The Congress hereby declares that it is the policy of the United States that there should be no discharges of oil or hazardous substances into or upon the navigable waters of the United States, adjoining shorelines, or into or upon the waters of the contiguous zone, or in connection with activities under the Outer Continental Shelf Lands Act or the Deepwater Port Act of 1974, or which may affect natural resources belonging to, appertaining to, or under the exclusive management authority of the United States (including resources under the Fishery Conservation and Management Act of 1976).”
I’m certainly not a lawyer and can’t give legal advice. However, when I read that law quoted above, “no discharges of oil” is pretty clear to me. I’d avoid using WD-40 on fishing lures as some sort of “attractant.”
Even if it wasn’t illegal, why would you want to willingly and deliberately introduce a petroleum-based chemical into your waterway? Isn’t there enough pollution in this world without you adding to it just to catch a fish? It hardly strikes me as a good thing, and I’d urge you not to do it. Fishermen are the best and the worst conservationists out there. Which half do you belong to?
Does WD-40 Work as a Fish Attractant?
One reason people put WD-40 on their fishing lures is because they think it attracts fish. Apparently, people have been using WD-40 as a fish attractant for decades, and several swear by it. Judging by forum responses it seems that people think salmon,lake trout, and catfish like it particularly well.
While I can’t find an actual scientific study with control groups to comment on if WD-40 actually attracts fish, I think it is at least fair to say that it doesn’t appear to be a deterrent, as it has seemed to have worked for many anglers over the years.
It appears that it was used more frequently as an attractant “in the old days.” We’ve come quite a way since then. Today, most people generally frown on directly polluting our lakes and rivers and I would hope you share that opinion. Even if this stuff did work as an attractant, it’s not worth the impact to the environment.
It needs to be said, again and repeatedly, that WD-40 is a pollutant. Even if it does work as an attractant, you shouldn’t use it. There are plenty of other safe attractants out there that people have confidence in. I would recommend Gulp! Alive! Attractant as I routinely use their minnows that are soaked in the same stuff and find they work great. The bottom line is there is no need to stoop to polluting the water ways to catch a fish when there are purpose-made products available for the task.
Also, if you’re new to the sport, bear in mind that attractants aren’t some magic shortcut. Invest some time in yourself and learn a few new techniques. You’ll be better off than risking fines or worse by spraying this product on your lures.
Will WD-40 Damage Fishing Line?
From what I can tell this is another one of those “it depends” answers. WD-40 has a chemical composition that is going to break down or weaken certain objects and have absolutely no effect on others. Depending on your fishing line’s composition or formula, spraying WD-40 on it could cause just about anything could happen.
I’ve seen many people make the argument that it should be just fine for most monofilament. They argue that since this type of line is made out of much the same stuff as gas cans, a petroleum-based product shouldn’t harm it.
People are less certain about different types of braid, especially those that are coated with various materials. It’s tough to say how WD-40 might affect those.
Regardless, it is important to remember–again–that it is a pollutant. If you are spraying WD-40 on your fishing line to try and keep it supple, and then cast that fishing line into the water, you are polluting your local waterway. You are making the water less safe and enjoyable for others around you, including your children. Even if you feel the impact is negligible, it is more than necessary.
There are plenty of other great products out there for keeping your monofilament and fluorocarbon lines. I’ve used Line & Lure Conditioner Kevin VanDam’s 4oz Spray and feel it works well for keeping my line supple and reducing memory. Some people claim it adds distance to their cast which makes sense, but I haven’t noticed this. It might just be that I haven’t really paid attention to it though. Both are better options than dousing your fishing line in WD-40 and polluting your waterways!
Can I Use WD-40 to Clean My Fishing Reel?
It does seem that just about every potential application for WD-40 receives vigorous debate on the fishing forums. This question is no different. Some people recommend lightly wiping down the exterior of your fishing reels with WD-40, especially after using them near salt water, while others complain that it will eventually gum up on your reels and collect dirt.
People do seem to at least agree this should be for external use only, and never for greasing any internal components of the reels. This is because fishing reels rely on proper lubrication, and even though WD-40 is often mistaken as a lubricant, it can break down the different chemicals and solutions necessary to keep your reel working properly.
About the only thing I can conclusively say is that if done correctly, at least this will not harm the environment because your reel should (ideally at least) never be submerged in the lake, river, pond or ocean.
All in all, I don’t see a reason to use WD-40. Several companies make purpose-made reel cleaners (such as Ardent Reel Kleen Cleaner, 16-Ounce) that you know will work without damaging your reel.
Conclusions: Save It for the Squeaky Hinges
Look, I’m as big a believer as the next guy in WD-40 and Duct Tape being all you need to fix life’s problems, but the bottom line is we’re talking about a pollutant here that could be introduced into a waterway, and could potentially damage your gear as well. Why do either?
You could definitely find people who would disagree with everything I’ve said here. That’s the nature of life and especially the internet. But FishingFather is a site designed to help parents take their kids out fishing. One of the main reasons I want more parents to do that is so that there are future stewards of conservationism and the environment.
It would be completely against the spirit of this site to take a kid out fishing and then teach them to spray their lures down with WD-40, or any other pollutant, so I hope you’ll stick to the commercial, environmentally-friendly sprays out there.
Another item you might consider picking up at Amazon is my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide. While it won’t discuss the wonders of WD-40, it does provide several useful tips for fishing with children.
Remember, scents aren’t a magic bullet. If you’re looking for some help catching more fish, purchase the book above, or check out the following articles on my website:
I’d argue that you’d get much more use out of spending your time reading these articles than heading off to the hardware store for a can of WD-40!
I hope this article was helpful. If it was, please consider sharing it so it can help others. You can also follow FishingFather on Facebook to keep in touch with new content and fishing reports.
I guess it’s a bit of a morbid question, but one you might soon find yourself asking if you head off fishing on a hot day and forget your cooler. Do fish like dead worms? Can you fish with dead worms for fishing? Or how about, why on earth do fish like worms in the first place?
Dead worms do work for fishing, and while you can use them, I think you’ll wish you kept the worms alive. Granted, there are some species, like bullhead, that enjoy really stinky bait and probably won’t care if the worms are dead, but I’ve found that I catch more fish and use less bait when the worms are alive and well.
Let’s explore this topic a little further to understand why it’s better to fish with live worms, troubleshoot why your worms keep dying, and then discuss what you can do about it. I’ll also touch base a bit on what worms are best for fishing, and share a few resources that will help you rig them correctly.
Why You Should Fish With Worms
Before we go any further, let’s just spend a moment and talk about why you should fish with worms in the first place. My website primarily deals with helping families learn to fish, and one of the maxims I live by is that you want to pursue quantity over quality when you’re getting started. This helps keep kids interested and engaged.
The bottom line is that fish really like worms. They can’t keep their lips off of them. So if you want to catch a lot of fish with your kids, nightcrawlers and other worms are a great choice.
Another great reason to fish with worms is that they help keep fishing inexpensive. I wrote an article where I tried to help people keep their new fishing hobby affordable. One of the main arguments I made was that bait, and specifically worms, can be free. All you have to do is go dig them up!
If you’re just getting started, or are trying to help a young child get started, I suggest that you bring some nightcrawlers along for your trip. Nighcrawlers are inexpensive, easy to use, and don’t bite. They’re the perfect bait for kids.
What Fish Bite Nightcrawlers?
I’m convinced you could catch any carnivorous fish in the world with a nightcrawler. Everything from largemouth bass to mud fish bite nightcrawlers routinely on my fishing trips. I’ve caught brown trout with a spinner and worm, sucker fish, northern pike, chain pickerel and everything in-between on a nightcrawler. Catfish and bullhead especially are great fish to go for with nightcrawlers, as they’ll bit them single or in giant clusters on the same hook. And of course, all the kid favorites like bluegill, yellow perch, pumpkinseeds, rockbass, and crappie love eating worms. In short, every fish in the sea will bite a nightcrawler – you can’t go wrong!
But Why Do Fish LIKE Worms?
In a sea full of artificial lures and danger, worms are the real thing. To fish, worms smell good, taste good, feel good, and look good. They have a natural smell that is better than any fish attractant. Their taste, apparently, is better than plastic or wood (I’ll have to take the fish’s word on this). They have a natural feeling that lets a fish know they’ve hit the real deal and not some imitation. Finally, they have enticing little wriggles that work better than any twitch of a jerkbait. When a fish sees a worm, they know that they’re staring at a nutritious meal, so if nothing spooks them, they’re more apt to bite.
Why You Should Use Live Worms vs. Dead Worms
I’m not going to tell you that dead worms never work, as many fish will eat them, but I will say that they don’t seem to work as well as live ones for many species that you might target with your kids (chiefly panfish and bass).
First, let’s define what exactly I mean by “dead worms.” I’m not suggesting that you take a pulse, but you do need to understand that nightcrawlers go through a few stages during a fishing trip: (1) Alive; (2) Possibly Alive but in Poor Condition and; (3) Dead.
Stage 1: Fully Alive Worms
When you first open up a box of nightcrawlers that has been properly stored in a fridge, you will notice that they are plump and juicy. If you touch them, they quickly pull back and try to escape. These night crawlers are fully alive. They have several advantages:
They are durable. If you tried to break them into pieces, it would be difficult without a pair of scissors. Worms that are alive stand up better to panfish pecking away at them.
They are more appealing to fish. When you put them on your hook, you’ll find that they squirm about and put up a fuss. They continue doing this under the water, which makes them look like prey. Fish like eating worms that are moving around enticingly.
They are larger. This goes hand in hand with being more appealing, but you have a better chance of catching a larger fish. Remember, in nature, life is a game of energy conservation. Predators don’t want to waste energy for petty offerings, but they will spend some energy if they think it will land them a solid meal.
I understand that some of you might question my claim that worms are more durable while they’re alive. You might say, “But John, I just put a plump nightcrawler on my hook, and the bluegill tore it to shreds!”
Well, yes. They grabbed its tail and tore it right off. Probably its midsection too. But what about its head – the piece that is directly baited on the hook? I’ll bet that part is still there, and I’ll bet it stays there through several fish before you need to swap it out. In fact, if you’re going with your kids, you might want to just start with a small piece as you’ll catch many more panfish per worm that way.
In contrast, if you were using nightcrawlers or worms that were drying out such as those described below in Stage 2, the fish would be apt to steal the entire bait in one go, because it has lost much of its durability. It would be pretty common to have to change bait after each cast, which can end your day in a hurry.
Stage 2: Possibly Alive, but in Poor Condition
If you’re fishing with worms on a hot day and don’t keep them in a cooler, you will notice that they start to get smaller throughout the day. These worms are doing poorly, and may die before long. As worms enter this stage, they lose some of the characteristics of healthy worms:
Worms that have been left in the heat are nowhere near as durable. They easily break without the need for any scissors.
Worms that are nearly dead are less appealing to some species of fish, like largemouth bass. Your best chance of catching a bass on a worm is to use a large one that is lively. You’re much less likely to catch one with a worm that is almost dead.
They are smaller. Look at the photo below to see a very clear difference between worms that are alive, and worms that are nearly (or already) dead.
The worms on the left were stored in a cooler. The worms on the right were not. After just an hour or so of fishing, you can see quite a difference in size.
Stage 3: Dead Worms
When a worm first dies it will usually look like a worm in Stage 2 discussed above, but will be completely limp and won’t move at all. Fishing with dead worms has several disadvantages:
Dead worms are not durable in the first stage of death, but will become hard as rocks if left in the sun. Early in death, they are pulled off the hook easily, and late in death, you rarely get bites.
Dead worms have very little appeal to any species that favors living worms. Nature has very specialized roles for different animals, and fish are no different. There are certain fish that primarily eat the dead, and others that prefer live quarry.
At some point you’re going to leave a bit of a worm on a hook for a spell while you try something else. You’ll come back to it and it’ll look completely dried out. You can try tossing it in and you might even get a bite, but I wouldn’t recommend starting off this way. I usually just replace them with a fresh worm.
Do Any Fish Prefer Dead Worms?
As a general rule, you’re much better off with live worms. One of the main reasons why fish like worms is because they’re plump, juicy and wriggling. Bass especially want a larger, wriggling target and would hesitate to strike a dead worm over a live one.
All the same, dead worms do work for fishing. Indeed, fish that really enjoy stinky foods, such as bullhead and catfish, would enjoy a heaping of dead worms, but the problem of durability discussed above is going to make it hard to keep the worm on the hook long enough for them to bite.
Remember, it’s not so much that a fish won’t bite a dead worm. Rather, the issue is that if they bite it away from the hook, they’re apt to tear the whole offering off of the hook harmlessly.
If you do find yourself in a situation where all your worms are dead, do your best to ball a bunch of them up on the hook so it’s less likely the entire offering will be stolen with one peck.
You can also borrow a trick from catfishermen and place a handful of worms into a little pouch of cheesecloth or old leggings. This will let the scent dissipate without the worms pulling from the hook, but you’ll eliminate most chance of a panfish taking the bait (unless the pouch is very small).
Why Do Worms Die?
Sometimes worms die for unknown reasons in shipping or storage at the tackle shop. You would be well advised to open each worm container and take a look and whiff. A box of dead or dying worms will often have a white mold like substance growing in the container and will smell very bad. What you want is clean, dark soil that smells like soil.
Assuming that you bought them alive and they later died, the most likely reason for their misfortune is that you allowed them to become too hot, as temperatures above 77 °F (25 °C) will cause them to weaken and eventually die. The higher the temperature, the quicker their death.
Nightcrawlers and worms also die when they lose too much moisture. This is why they come packaged in some soil. Ever notice how it is very wet and messy at first? That moisture keeps your bait alive and wriggling. If you’re storing your own worms at home, don’t forget to change the soil out from time to time and moisten it a bit with a sprayer.
Finally, worms die because creatures like fish eat them. That is the only death you’re aiming for.
Is There a Way to Make Fishing Worms More Enticing?
I was recently chatting with a gentleman from Slovenia who spends a lot of time fishing for carp with worms. He advises cutting a small portion of the worm’s tail off, to produce more scent in the water. The concept makes sense and might explain part of the reason why using bits of worms is so effective with panfish. I’d always thought panfish were just dumb, but perhaps the added scent is really what is driving the feeding frenzy. It’s something worth trying!
Will Worms Drown While Fishing?
Many folks want to know if worms will drown while you’re fishing. People are familar with seeing worms surface on a rainy day and they assume that they’re doing this to get air. Contrary to popular belief, worms don’t surface in the rain because they’re “drowning.” In fact, as long as the water has enough oxygen content for them to breath, nightcrawlers are actually fine completely underwater.
While this is a little bit of an academic question, it has practical use for fishermen, because you can keep your worm plump and juicy longer if you let it rest in the water a bit while you aren’t using it, as opposed to just putting it down on the shore to bake in the sun. Just make sure you use a rod holder in case a big fish comes along!
I’ve heard of some people livening up their worms a bit by putting them into chilled water for thirty minutes or so, and if your worms have started drying out I suppose it stands to reason that this might work. In any event, it’s worth a shot.
Do Nightcrawlers Work For Night Fishing?
Yes, you can fish with nightcrawlers and other worms at night. In fact, the scent that they produce is going to help certain species home in on them and bite them. The only thing to consider is what species you intend to target. You will catch a lot of catfish and bullhead while fishing nightcrawlers and worms at night. Odds are these species will get to the worms long before bass home in on them after it gets dark.
Can You Use Nightcrawlers for Saltwater Fishing?
The salt in saltwater isn’t very good for nightcrawlers. They do tend to break down quickly in these conditions and fall off of the hook. With that said, if a fish gets to your hook before the worm is ruined, nightcrawlers are very effective at catching them. Go ahead and use nightcrawlers in saltwater if that’s your only option, but most folks will tell you to buy blood worms or other dedicated saltwater, hardier baits instead.
Can You Use Worms For Ice Fishing?
There’s no reason you can’t use worms or nightcrawlers for ice fishing. Any fish that will bite a nightcrawler during the summer will bite the same worm in the winter. Using live bait like a worm for ice fishing is a great way to entice bites from fish who might hesitate to chase an artificial lure in the frigid temps. The only trick is finding the worms as many bait shops don’t carry them in the winter. You might need to buy them in bulk, or keep them alive until you have a chance to use the worms on your favorite ice fishing hole.
Where to Buy Live Worms For Fishing?
Many gas stations, sporting goods stores, and almost all baitshops will have various species of worms for sale. They typically are sold by the dozen, and some places carry packages of several dozen. You’ll know an establish sells them because they typically keep a “We Sell Bait” or “Live Bait” sign out front.
Buying worms by the dozen can get expensive. You will get a better deal if you purchase them online. I get my worms from Windsor Wholesale Bait. Buying in bulk allows me to save a ton of money. I prefer Windsor Wholesale Bait because I enjoy fishing with Canadian Nightcrawlers. If you’d prefer smaller worms, you can find specieis such as Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm’s Red Wigglers on Amazon. Some people prefer the smaller worms for panfish.
How to Catch Your Own Worms
If you don’t want to buy worms, you have two choices: wait for a rainy day to scoop them off your street, or go out in search of nightcrawlers at night. If you go after your own, try and find open fields that get a little moisture from sprinklers or morning dew (some large sports fields at your local school may work well). The only trick is to see if that school uses anything like a pesticide to keep the worms and other critters away. Clearly, those aren’t your best bet.
Here’s a video with some other great tips of how to catch your own worms. I particularly like the idea about using spare cardboard to catch them (we all have plenty of that these days)!
How Can I Keep My Nightcrawlers Alive for Fishing?
In most cases you’re going to purchase a few dozen worms a day or two before your fishing trip. You would do well to keep them in the fridge until you’re ready to use them. This will keep them fresh for up to a few weeks, though I like to use them soon so I don’t forget about them.
It gets trickier to keep them alive when you’re fishing. You will want to bring a cooler and keep them in it when you aren’t using them. This cooler should probably be separate from the one you’re storing your food in, because the lids on worm packages are prone to popping off, especially if your kids keep playing with it.
You could also consider buying a specialty cooler for your worms. What type you choose is going to depend on if you’re fishing from a boat (where you presumably have some room), or if you’re hoofing it on foot and need to pack light.
Some Good Ways to Store Worms and Nightcrawlers
If you’re fishing from a boat, a great option is the Unexcelled Fishing Keep Kool Live Bait Cooler. While this isn’t the lightest option (it is 7 pounds before adding ice), it has a great design where the worms are kept in an inner box that is surrounded by an outer insulated box for ice. It also has a carrying handle, and is rectangular with a flat bottom, making it easy to store. This is definitely an upgrade from storing worms in your lunch cooler.
If you’re fishing from shore and planning to cover much ground, a nifty little product is the Zebco Lil Wormcooler. It’s small (4.5 x 4.5 x 4 inches), light weight at 1.12 ounces, and comes with a handle that you could clip to your belt (you’ll need to buy a clip separately). This means it is one less thing to have to carry in your hands, which is important when you’re walking from spot to spot.
Other Ways to Store Nightcrawlers
If you don’t have two coolers and don’t want to put your worms and food in the same one, you can make their own container a cooler of sorts by putting an ice cube or two in a plastic bag and then burying it in the worm container.
Some people forget the dirt altogether and just put their nightcrawlers into a bucket of ice. Believe it or not, this actually keeps them well. Just make sure the ice is wet before you add the worms or the moist worms will stick to the ice and tear. This is a great solution for people who don’t want worm dirt all over their boats and hands.
As we’ve discussed, worms can stay alive in water for great lengths of time, so even if the ice melts, they’ll still be alive and usable.
What Can I Feed My Worms?
If you’re going to keep worms for an extended period of time, you’re going to need to figure out something to feed them. You’ll want to feed them about once a week.
There are several manufactured worm foods out there on the market. These are advertised as having numerous different minerals and nutrients that will help your worms grow while you’re waiting to use them. I fish often enough that I’ve never had need of these, but I have no reason to doubt the claims as others seem to love the product. A popular choice is Frabill Fat and Sassy Worm Food.
When I’m keeping worms it’s usually not going to be for more than 3-4 weeks, so I just use my coffee grounds. It’s a byproduct that I already own, so I don’t need to go buy something new, and it’s even recommended by the worm experts.
What’s the Best Way to Fish With Nightcrawlers?
You can rig worms in several ways, but the three easiest for newer fishermen to try plain hooks, drop shots, and bobbers.
Fishing a Worm on a Plain Hook
Fishing a worm on a plain hook is as simple as it sounds. You just pierce the worm with the hook and toss it in the water. There are several theories about how to put the worm on the hook. Some people thread the hook through the worms head and leave its tail dangling. Others kind of bunch the squirming worm up on the hook without much rhyme or reason. Either works, but bear in mind that anything a fish can snag without touching the hook will be quickly stolen.
Bass seem to prefer nightcrawlers that are rigged so that their tails are off the hook, dangling enticingly in the water. A largemouth bass is a large enough fish that they can grab the entire worm in one gulp, but if panfish get to a worm rigged this way first, that tail is disappearing with nothing to show for it.
The Drop Shot
I’ve written extensively about how to rig drop shots and why I love them on another article. I won’t repeat the information, but I will give you the basic theory: a dropshot has the hook tied 6-12″ inches above a sinker. The sinker falls to the bottom and keeps the worm suspended up above slightly where fish are more likely to see it. This is a great technique for fishing (especially with kids) and I suggest you try it.
Fishing Nightcrawlers with a Bobber
I am not a fan of bobbers, but many people are. They do allow you to keep a bait up off the bottom, much like a drop shot, but they also tend to encourage people to put their rod down and wait for something to bite. This is boring, and also can be counterproductive as many bites will go undetected. You should probably bring a few along in case you need to keep your bait above some obstruction, but I wouldn’t start with them.
In Conclusion: Keep Your Worms Alive
If you want to have the best chance for success, you should do what you can to keep your worms alive. While you can fish with dead worms, from my experience, live worms work better than dead ones.
Even if fish didn’t have a preference one way or another, the sheer durability of the bait while alive and moist is going to mean that you’ll get more use out of it, and have less frustration.
It’s not fun for you (or your kids) to constantly feel nibbles and never have something to reel in. I know from experience that this can happen if you have dead worms that tear off the hook easily. It becomes very frustrating on days where not much is biting, as you need to land the few fish that do.
Simple Steps to Make Worms and Nightcrawlers Last Longer
In sum, follow these simple steps to make your worms last longer for your fishing trip:
Check the worm container at the store to make sure the worms are alive. The container should smell like dirt as opposed to decomposing flesh;
Store the worms in a cool, dark place where they and their soil won’t dry out;
Feed them coffee grounds about once a week if you need to store them indefinitely;
If you need to put the rod down for a long time in the heat, keep the worm dangling in the water so it doesn’t dry out.
One of the main maxims I teach about fishing with kids is to control what you can, when you can. Keeping worms alive before and during your fishing trip is an achievable goal. Make every effort to do so, as it will help you have a better time out there on the water with your kids.
. As its name indicates, it telescopes up to 15 feet which is good for getting most crankbaits that are stuck. This is going to be something more useful in a boat, but even on shore, most crankbaits will get stuck within reach. 
, for yourself. If you liked the tips you found in this article, I trust you’ll enjoy the book as well.
as I routinely use their minnows that are soaked in the same stuff and find they work great. The bottom line is there is no need to stoop to polluting the water ways to catch a fish when there are purpose-made products available for the task.
and feel it works well for keeping my line supple and reducing memory. Some people claim it adds distance to their cast which makes sense, but I haven’t noticed this. It might just be that I haven’t really paid attention to it though. Both are better options than dousing your fishing line in WD-40 and polluting your waterways!
) that you know will work without damaging your reel. 
on Amazon. Some people prefer the smaller worms for panfish. 
. While this isn’t the lightest option (it is 7 pounds before adding ice), it has a great design where the worms are kept in an inner box that is surrounded by an outer insulated box for ice. It also has a carrying handle, and is rectangular with a flat bottom, making it easy to store. This is definitely an upgrade from storing worms in your lunch cooler.
.