If your family is just starting to learn to fish, you could be in for some “sticker shock” when you look at the fishing rods section at your local tackle shop. With some rods running several hundred dollars, you might wonder: is it worth it to buy an expensive fishing rod? In a word, yes, it is. But it’s even better when you buy that expensive fishing rod used. This article will help you learn what to look for when buying a used rod.
Why Expensive Fishing Rods Are Worth It
There’s little point in considering the benefits of buying a used fishing rod unless you understand why expensive ones are worth it. I wrote an entire article that goes into that topic in detail, and I suggest that you read it. It breaks down an entire lineup of rods that I own and discusses the pros and cons of each.
For those in a rush, expensive rods are more sensitive, tend to be a lighter weight, and are better balanced. This means that you can detect fish bites easier, and fish for longer without becoming tired.
Why Buying An Expensive Fishing Rod Used is the Way to Go
Buying your fishing rods used is a great way to reduce expenses while still acquiring quality equipment, but it can be a little nerve-wracking. You might worry that there’s something wrong with the rod and you’re buying a lemon.
While it’s always going to be tough to judge a rod by some photos in an online auction, I do have some tips for how you can purchase a used fishing rod with confidence. If everything is OK with the rod, you get a smoking deal, but even if something goes wrong, you’ll at least break even with what the cost of a new rod would have been with the method I’m about to teach you.
I know this works because I’m the second owner for most of my fishing rods, and I have learned a thing or two after several dozen purchases.
In this article, I will teach you how to research a warranty to know the “break even point” for price, examine a rod in person or from photos, and then buy it without losing any sleep.
It should go without saying that much of the issues I’ll discuss aren’t a huge deal for a children’s starter rod that you pick up at a tag sale. The scope of this article is more directed at the nicer rods that you might wish to acquire used.
NOTE: Further down, I’ll show you a case study showing my exact methodology while researching an actual high-end rod. I’m not going to use the manufacturer’s name because the terms and conditions of their warranty could change at any moment, as could their product’s price.
Step 1: What to Look For When Buying a Used Rod
There are some ways that you can tell if a used fishing rod is damaged before you buy it. If you’re buying online, get as many photos as you can and ask the seller for more if necessary. If in person, examine the following very carefully:
The Line Guides Especially the Tip
Before buying a used fishing rod, look at the line guides and examine them for any signs of wear. Specifically, you want to make sure that they all appear aligned properly, that the threads holding them to the rod appear to be original, and that there are no deep cuts or gouges in the line guides.
While some rods are designed with guides that don’t all align properly, if there is obviously an issue with one of them being bent too far, it could be a warning sign that the rod hasn’t been maintained very well. It’s not that hard of a thing to fix (gentle pressure will usually bend it back) but it is a possible failure point in the future that you should be aware of.
Line guides are held onto the rod blank by two sets of threaded bands on the top and bottom of the guide. These are wound tightly and have a finish applied over them. If one set of bands is a distinctly different color than the others, it could be a sign of prior damage. You will want to double check and make sure that this wasn’t a stylistic choice of the manufacturer before you pass on a rod because of this.
You’ll also want to double check each guide to make sure that the spacer or insert within each guide is intact. Some manufacturers have a metal circle that they place inside of the guides and these are common failure points. You’ll notice that they are missing on some rods.
Some older rods don’t do very well with braided line because the line cuts into their guides over time and creates a groove. This in turn can compromise your fishing line if it touches the groove as it passes through the damaged guide.
Many people secure their hooks and lures against the line guides. This is terrible for them as the sharp hooks can ding them up and damage them, but it is prevalent. Basically, just check for anything that seems out of the norm. It’s easy to do this in person, just run your finger through each guide and see if it feels smooth. When buying online, this obviously isn’t an option, so insist on good photos.
Bear in mind that all of these issues are only magnified as you move further up the rod blank towards the tip. The guides all get smaller and more fragile and more likely to break. There is no shortage of fishing rods in this world with a broken tip.
The Handle
Before buying a used fishing rod, look at its handle, especially if it is cork. Check for pitting or gouges in the cork. A little is normal but you wouldn’t want anything excessive as it is a sign that the rod was neglected or is very old.
You’ll also want to check the coloration. Cork will darken over time as grime, dust, and sweat rub into it from fishing. Lighter cork could indicate less use, or it could simply indicate a seller who bothered to clean up the rod and make it presentable.
Maybe I’m reading too much into it, but when I see a cork handle for sale that needs a proper cleaning, a little voice asks, “If the seller can’t be bothered to clean this before listing it for $200, what other maintenance did he forgo?”
If you’re in person, make sure that you check the reel seat to see if it feels tight and snug, as these tend to loosen over the years (bringing along your own reel to test it with will help). This is a fairly annoying issue if you don’t catch it, and it almost cost me a reel once that fell into the depths of Otter Creek, Vermont (Luckily, I was able to retrieve it – 1 yard at a time).
The Hook Holder
Many rods have a hook holder near their handle. This is generally a piece of metal that almost looks like a paper clip. After I had the little bilge fiasco that I discussed in this thread, I noticed that a few of my rods started rusting over in this area.
This doesn’t seem to have affected their action at all but you have to figure that eventually the hook holder will fail and I’ll need to find another option. Though they do sell some snap on hook holders, you really don’t want to add unnecessary weight to a high-caliber rod, so you’re better off if you can find a rod without this issue.
The Label
This is one of the most important things to look for when buying a used fishing rod, especially if it is a more expensive brand. Many manufacturers will void their warranty on a rod by removing or scuffing up their label. This indicates that the rod had a traumatic failure (usually a snapped tip), was returned to the factory and repaired, but is not as good as new.
If you see a rod with a missing label, you run a significant risk that there is no warranty or an exceptionally short warranty (that may or may not transfer to the second owner, anyway). It might not be worth it to buy an expensive brand of fishing rod that is missing its label as that could be a sign that it is damaged and no longer as sensitive.
You’ll notice in online listings that these rods tend to have an unusual length. Whereas many rods come in 6’6″ or 6’8″ sizes, very few deliberately are 6’4″ or 6’7″. Double check what you’re buying and make sure that the rod is truly as advertised.
“B-Stock” Rods
While we’re on the topic of understanding exactly what you’re buying, you should realize that some manufacturers will sell so-called “B-Stock” rods at a steep discount. These are rods that were flagged during the manufacturing process as having some sort of blemish, or that were returned with very little use.
They aren’t going to carry the same warranty, which makes them more dangerous to purchase (and renders my method below useless), but as long as the seller identifies them as such, you don’t have to question their honesty.
Step 2: Research the Fishing Rod and Its Warranty
Physical blemishes and defects aren’t the only things you need to look for when buying a used fishing rod. You also need to consider issues such as how expensive the rod is new, and what kind of warranty it comes with.
If you don’t do this research, you might find yourself in a situation where you think you’re getting a great deal on an expensive brand of fishing rod, but you’re actually buying it for more than it’s worth.
New Cost – (Used Cost + Warranty Deductible + Shipping)
When I’m thinking about buying a used fishing rod on E-Bay, I’m trying to figure out if the used rod is truly worth it and safe to buy. You might see a rod listed for $50 less than new and think to yourself, “well, why wouldn’t it be worth it – I can save $50!!!”
OK… So what if the rod breaks instantly and the warranty deductible is $60? Still think it’s a good deal? Of course not.
The equation I use when purchasing a rod used is:
“New Cost – (Used Cost + Warranty Deductible + Shipping).
I use this method to make sure that I never pay more than a new rod would have cost me, even if the rod breaks on my first cast.
Research the “Actual” New Cost of the Fishing Rod
An important thing to look for when buying a used rod is what that same rod costs rod new. You’ll also want to understand if it ever goes on sale, and if so, for how much. Knowing this will allow you to put a number on the “actual” new cost of the rod. If you skip this step, you’ll never know if that “deal” you found on that expensive fishing rod is really worth clicking “Buy It Now.”
Some of the bigger fishing stores out there like Bass Pro Shops have their own branded products that they put on sale regularly. Generally speaking, they have a sale around most of the holidays and also a very big “Spring Fishing Classic” each year. You can often find their products heavily discounted, and their fishing rods and reels especially tend to be high quality.
If you’re looking at a rod from one of these shops, you need to get an idea of how much it might be discounted in the near future to understand what the “true” new cost is. It changes from year to year so honestly I’d just go to some fishing forums like www.ultimatebass.com, www.bassresource.com, or www.walleyecentral.com and ask around to see what deals different members have received.
If, on the other hand, you’re looking at a so-called “elite” fishing rods from a name brand, realize that they don’t usually go on sale at individual retail stores. Often, the manufacturers insist that the tackle shops out there sell their rods for a certain price and do not allow discounting.
If you want to buy these on sale, you generally need to sign up for the manufacturer newsletter and buy directly from them. Most often, the rods they offer for sale are either brand new models they want to get out there, or discontinued items that they still have lying around. This makes these sales very tough to predict and I wouldn’t bother waiting. Just consider the MSRP as the new cost.
Understand the Warranty in Detail
A well-made fishing rod can last a lifetime if reasonably cared for, which is one of the main reasons why its worth it to buy expensive fishing rods used. Thirty years later, I’m still using some rods I first cast as a child. All of those were second hand from my father.
Unfortunately, if you’re buying used, you’ll usually have little idea if the last owner abused it. This can be scary, especially if you’re looking at an expensive rod up for auction.
A rod’s warranty can remove the fear of purchasing it used if you understand what the warranty actually covers. Check the manufacturer’s website and look for the fine print on that used fishing rod model before you buy it. Here is the warranty information for St. Croix rods, which is my personal favorite brand.
You need to understand the fine print. Namely, will the warranty transfer to a second owner and what is the deductible for that second owner in case of damage? Further, who pays for the shipping? Is it included in the deductible fee or extra?
This is very important. Many manufacturers offer a much more robust warranty for original owners which obviously won’t help you when buying used. You need to read through the fine print and figure out exactly what you’re getting into.
You also need to understand if there is anything that second owner must do to transfer the warranty to their name. Some companies require registration on their website while others require nothing at all.
I’ve found that some companies reduce the warranty length for second owners. Whereas they might offer the original purchaser a lifetime warranty, a second owner may only get 10 years from the date of manufacture.
“Well, how on earth would I know this?” you ask? Look for a series of weird numbers on your rod. That is the serial number. If you call them or visit their website with that information, they should be able to tell you. Make sure you do this. You need to know if the warranty is still in effect or this entire process I’m teaching you is worthless.
Understand the “Actual” Used Cost
This is the easiest part of the whole equation – what is the seller asking for and how much do they want to ship the rod to you? Is the fishing rod worth buying at that price, or is it actually more expensive than if you bought it new?
I would submit that if you’re looking for the absolute best deal, you should consider if the price is negotiable, or (if purchasing through auction) if the “buy it now” price is actually better than what the rod will typically command after bidding. These will help you determine which one you should target.
Understand if shipping is a fixed cost, or based on your location. Try and get the seller to commit to a firm number agreed to in advance if possible, or even waive the shipping costs as part of the deal. Sometimes, it’s possible to meet someone and pick the rod up in person. Just make sure you stay safe while doing this, and meet in a well-lit public place.
Step 3: Do the Math and Make a Decision
Once you have your numbers, do some math. I promised you that I would use a “real world” example, and here it is. Again, I’m not using the manufacturer info because they could change their warranty conditions at any moment and I don’t want you to rely on outdated warranty information and find yourself underwater.
For the purposes of this study, let’s assume four things:
- You’re looking to buy a used rod from a seller you do not know;
- Unbeknownst to you, the rod was broken through negligence (i.e. not a manufacturer defect) and the seller is either unaware of this or trying to pull a fast one;
- You don’t have any guarantee that you’ll get your money back;
- You need this rod and will replace it if it breaks.
Bear in mind that the goal here is to avoid EVER buying a used fishing rod for more than it would have cost new.
Case Study #1
Here we have an online “buy it now” option for a high-end rod. As you can see, this is a terrible deal. At best, you’re only saving $9.99, yet you’re exposing yourself to $75.01 of risk. You should not purchase this used rod.
Case Study #2
This is a much better deal. While you won’t break even, even if the rod was broken, you’re only out $4.12 over what the cost of a new rod would have been if you bought it new in the first place. I can stomach $4.12 of risk for the potential $80.88 savings.
If I was in the market for this rod, and it looked reasonably maintained from the photos, I would jump on this one and not lose a wink of sleep.
But How Should I Bid On a Used Fishing Rod?
You can use this same exact method to determine what your maximum bid should be when you’re trying to buy a used fishing rod. The only difference is you don’t worry about the asking/selling price, because you don’t know what that is yet. It will be whatever the top bidder is willing to pay.
Your job is to figure out what you’re willing to pay without exposing yourself to more risk than you can handle, should the experience go south.
Here’s an example from a current auction:
As you can see, if the bidding ended today, the buyer would get a phenomenal deal, but even if the cost increases, any price lower than $258.05 guarantees that in the absolute worst case scenario, you aren’t paying more for a used item than it costs new, and in fact, you might one day wind up with a new rod for a discount.
Closing Thoughts
I enjoy fishing tremendously and have bought several fishing rods over the years used with confidence by employing this method. I personally feel that it is worth it to buy expensive fishing rods, but only if the price is right. Because I know what to look for when buying a used fishing rod, I’ve been able to use this system to expand my arsenal with expensive, high quality fishing rods, all without breaking my budget.
It’s not rocket science but it is also not something that everyone thinks about, so I thought I’d write it to try and help someone out there. I’m clearly not getting any commission on an article that suggests you buy products used, so I hope you feel you can trust my advice!
If you enjoyed this article, consider purchasing my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide. In it, you will find numerous tips and tricks for teaching children to fish. If you are trying to get your kids (or yourself) into this sport, or know someone who is, it’s worth a read.
Thanks,
John Paxton
