Best Fishing Rods for Kids – Advice from a Fisherman

If you’re a parent looking to purchase your kid’s first fishing rod and you ask the internet what fishing pole is best for kids, the advice you’ll receive can be pretty mixed. Dedicated fishing websites will tend to give you reliable information, but there are many “one off” articles written by bloggers in other genres that are clearly written by people who know very little about fishing, yet are very eager to sell you something. That bugs me, so I wrote this article to try and help.

OK, but why should you trust me? Because I didn’t get a memo from my boss that I had to write this article. Instead, I’m a father of two who has been taking his (now 5-year-old) son out fishing at least 3 or 4 times each week for the past four years . I’ve also taken several other cousins, nephews, my niece, and many friends’ children out over the past decade (to say nothing of starting as a little sprout myself). I’ve spent hundreds of hours fishing with kids and made this website to help you teach your own kids how to fish. That’s why.

What Are My Favorite Fishing Rods for Kids?

I’m going to talk about three specific kids fishing poles that are best for different ages, but if you’re a “cut to the chase” kind of person, I’ll lay it out very clearly:

I’m going to dive a bit more into why I selected these three rods as “the best,” but before I do, let me assure you of a few things:

  • The rods I recommend are all rods that I personally own.
  • These are all rods that my son has used for dozens upon dozens of hours.

In short, this article contains actual “real world” testing. Not flipping some products around in my hand for 20 minutes and condensing other reviews into one. I know that sounds snarky, but I’m truly frustrated at the thought of someone wasting your money and jeopardizing the chance that your kid will have a good experience fishing.

A Brief Word on How I Define “The Best Fishing Rod for Kids”

I go a bit against the grain and recommend that you start your children with a quality spinning rods rather than an “inexpensive” spincast rod. I intend to write an article justifying my position more thoroughly, but in brief, spinning rods and reels:

  • Aren’t that much harder to cast (which doesn’t really matter when your kids are young, since you’ll be doing all the casting anyway);
  • Can be switched from left- to right-hand retrieve as needed (you’re stuck with whatever the spincast reel starts as);
  • Are much more useful for a wide variety of applications, thus, they are more likely to be utilized throughout your child’s life.

I don’t think you’ll get your money’s worth out of one of the “kid’s combos” that have the latest princess or superhero on it. I’d rather make a recommendation for a setup that you could see your child using for many years, and one that you might even use in a pinch.

The Best Fishing Rod for Toddlers: the Zebco Dock Demon

This was my son’s first fishing rod. It was perfect for casting indoors, and also would make a good ice fishing rod in a pinch.

My son started fishing with a Zebco Dock Demon spinning rod. At just over 2.5′ long, you’d be hard-pressed to find a rod that would fit a toddler better. It was the perfect size for casting around our house while I was teaching him how to reel in a lure. I appreciate the way it can be used in tight quarters!

This rod is extremely durable and stood up to everything my son did with it. This, of course, was to mostly whack the couch and drag the rod behind him in the dirt. It stood up to several months of aggressive use by a toddler without any issue.

You can find this rod with a combo that comes with a simple reel that is about all that you need for learning purposes. It is not as durable as the rod, but if you’re just teaching your kid to reel with it, this doesn’t matter.

When/if the reel breaks, the rod will accept another standard spinning reel. I’d be surprised to find your kids break it before they outgrow it.

Fishing with my son
My son fishing with his Zebco Dock Demon.

Why the Zebco Dock Demon Is a Great Fishing Pole for Small Kids:

The Zebco Dock Demon is one of the best fishing poles for small kids for several reasons:

  • It’s a small rod that does well for teaching your kids how to reel in a lure inside;
  • The Zebco Dock Demon is a great fishing rod for a very small child to handle without any fatigue or issues in real fishing conditions;
  • It is a good “toy” rod that allows your child to act like you while you are fishing and waiting to hook something to hand them to reel in;
  • The Zebco Dock Demon makes a plausible ice fishing rod.
  • You could also use it to vertical jigging right over the boat.

My son really enjoyed this product and it worked very well for my family. I would buy it again for my daughter, but I don’t need to, as our original one still works fine. To me, that is a testament to its durability. I would recommend this for your own family. If you’re interested in buying one, Amazon usually has it in stock for a very competitive price.

The Best Fishing Pole for Kids: the Shakespeare Ugly Stik Elite

The Ugly Stik Elite has quickly become a workhorse for my family.

I like the Shakespeare Ugly Stik Elite so much that I own six of them and often pick one up while I’m fishing with my son. This was his first “real” rod. The objective was for him to use it to catch fish rather than as a learning aide to help with the basic mechanics of reeling as he did with the Dock Doctor.

They are darn near unbreakable and are fairly sensitive fishing poles that detect bites pretty well and are great for kids. They’re definitely not as sensitive as a “high-end” rod but you won’t have trouble knowing that a fish is on the line.

Ugly Stiks are renowned for their durability and can put up with a ton of abuse. They are true workhorse rods that will get your kids through their more rambunctious years and could very well last as long as your kids interest in fishing does. I can attest to this as my son has reeled in fish on some of the first Ugly Stiks that I used 30 years ago!

How Long of a Fishing Pole Does a Child Need?

You can purchase an Ugly Stik Elite in lengths from 4’6″ to 7’6″ which makes it ideal for beginners of all sizes. I have several 4’6″ and 5′ models that I bought for my son between the time he was 2 and 4 years old. I’d recommend a similar size for a kid that small. Once they get a bit older, you can upgrade them to a 6′ or 6’6″ model.

The 4’6″ and 5′ long fishing poless make fighting panfish fun, so literally any fish your kids catch is going to tug and bend the rod for them. A little bit of drama never hurt anyone!

If you’re worried about how the smaller Ugly Stik’s will hold up in case your kid hooks a larger fish, I can personally attest that they can stand up well enough to larger fish such as catfish as seen in the photo below:

Ugly Stik makes some of the best kids fishing rods.  They are renowned for their durability, so even their light models will stand up well to larger fish.

Though you can purchase these rods as a rod/reel combo, these are “main” fishing rods for my family, so I went out and bought specific reels for them. They balance very well with Pflueger President spinning rods in the 6920 size.

If this is your child’s first fishing pole, it might be best to get the reel that comes with the combo, but this company is known for its rods more so than its reels. I think you’ll end up wanting to replace the reel if your kids stick with this hobby.

Why the Ugly Stik Elite is My Favorite Fishing Rod for Kids:

In sum, I recommend the Ugly Stik Elite as your main fishing rod for kids for the following reasons:

  • This workhorse is darn near unbreakable, even by kids;
  • It has a good amount of sensitivity for the price and can detect bites from panfish just fine;
  • I can tell you from experience that it holds up very well against larger fish like catfish and freshwater drum;
  • It has a nice finish. I like the cork rod and the subtle graphics. It looks like a true fishing rod, rather than a toy;
  • The balance of price, performance, and durability makes it the most rationale choice for building out your arsenal of children’s fishing rods.

Honorable Mention – The Ugly Stik GX2

Shakespeare manufactures another Ugly Stik that gives the Elite a run for its money for the tile of “Best Fishing Pole for Kids,” the GX2. The GX2 costs slightly less money than the Elite (though be sure to check Amazon for the best price, as the Elite often matches the price of the GX2). The difference between the two is fairly negligible:

  • The GX2 comes with a black EVA foam handle whereas the Elite has a cork handle;
  • The 4’6″ ultralight GX2 only has 5 line guides compared to the Elite’s 6 (note: the GX2 comes in many sizes, I merely picked one for the comparison);

With the two I compared, both were rated for the same size of lure and line, so it’s really going to come down to your preference of handle more than anything else. I prefer cork, so I bought the Elite for my son. My dad purchased several GX2s for himself as he thinks they “look” more like a traditional Ugly Stik.

The Best “High-End” Fishing Rod for Kids: the St. Croix Panfish Series

Let me just start by saying something loud and clear: do not buy the rod I’m about to describe to you unless your kid definitely loves fishing. If your child is just starting to fish, go buy the Dock Demon or one of the Ugly Stiks I discussed above, and let them start with that.

If, however, you’re in the market for a “high-end” rod for your little angler, you can’t go wrong with the Panfish Series by St. Croix rods. They are light weight (our 5′ model weighs 2.2 oz), extremely sensitive, and make catching little fish an absolute ball!

My son calls this his “birthday rod” and gets annoyed with me if I use it, but I can’t help myself. If he gets distracted I always have to say something like, “Hey buddy, why not let your old man throw this one out really far for you!”

It just is a dream to fish and I might have to get a few more. It’s a very sensitive rod that allows you feel bites much better than the Ugly Stiks, and therefore catch more fish. It also seems to cast the same drop shot a little further, even though I’ve paired it with the same Pflueger President 6920.

With that said, these benefits come at a cost. It is much more expensive than the Ugly Stiks and I’d imagine it has to be more fragile (Luckily, my son has yet to confirm this). At least I have the peace of mind to know it comes with a solid warranty.

The panfish series is at a great price point where it is expensive but not prohibitively so. This helps give the rod an aura of mystique for your children and will let them take pride in the knowledge that they’ve been trusted with something important without your needing to mortgage the house.

The St. Croix panfish is a quality rod for any little angler who is in love with the sport of fishing.

Why I love My Son’s St. Croix Panfish Series:

If you’re looking for a great high-end fishing rod for kids, I recommend the St. Croix panfish series for the following reasons:

  • While it is more expensive than the Ugly Stiks, it is not ridiculously so and remains in the realm of “reasonableness” if your children are serious about fishing;
  • It’s a great performing rod that makes fighting smaller fish like panfish a ton of fun;
  • The St. Croix Panfish series is much more sensitive than the Ugly Stiks and will allow you to better detect bites;
  • It’s just a great “special gift” to give your little angler. It’s the first true “valuable” that my son has owned, and it gives him a sense of pride.

Honorable (but Totally Unrealistic) Mentions

When I was searching for my son’s “birthday rod,” I also considered the Avid series in a 5’6 ultralight size. It is a little bit nicer of a rod, but I couldn’t justify the extra expense for a four-year-old.

I own about 20 St. Croix rods of various types and the experience has led me to believe that the Avid line of rods is normally St. Croix’s best bang for your buck, but when it comes to a good rod for kids, even I have to admit that they’re simply overkill.

There are several other options from St. Croix (such as the Legend Elite Panfish) that are significantly more expensive, light, and sensitive. I can’t in good conscious recommend those for a small child. They don’t need that sensitive of a rod and any benefit would be lost on them. With that said, it would make for a very well-received birthday gift.

If you’re in the market for one, have your kids get it for you on Mother’s or Father’s Day to show appreciation for how hard you work to put them on fish!

What to Know Before You Buy a Fishing Rod for Your Kids

Look, I know that I’m advocating starting off with good equipment here. That can be a bit counter-intuitive, especially if you don’t know if the hobby will stick.

The temptation is probably strong to just cave and buy some cheap little spincast combo with the latest princess on it and call it a day, but I honestly think you would be wasting your money and doing your kids a disservice.

Get them the right equipment from the start. Give them an honest chance at doing well enough at this sport to become infatuated with it. Don’t set them up for failure by buying junk destined for a cobwebbed corner of your garage. Get them something they can be proud of and use!

Granted, gear alone does not make an angler. If you need more help teaching your kids how to fish, check out some of my other articles that can help reduce your learning curve and spark your kid’s passion for fishing.

Suggested Reading

If you’re completely new, I’d start with my article on the basic skills you need to take your kids fishing. This article will set you up with all the equipment that you need and teach you how to tie a knot, rig a drop shot, find a good fishing spot, cast the rod, reel in and land a fish.

I hope this article gave you actionable information and cut down the learning curve a bit. As always, if you found this article helpful, please consider sharing it so that it can help others.

I would like to point out that I have a book for sale, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide that dives into this and several other topics. If you enjoyed this post, please consider purchasing it.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


Do Fish Like Dead Worms?

I guess it’s a bit of a morbid question, but one you might soon find yourself asking if you head off fishing on a hot day and forget your cooler. Do fish like dead worms? Can you fish with dead worms for fishing? Or how about, why on earth do fish like worms in the first place?

Dead worms do work for fishing, and while you can use them, I think you’ll wish you kept the worms alive. Granted, there are some species, like bullhead, that enjoy really stinky bait and probably won’t care if the worms are dead, but I’ve found that I catch more fish and use less bait when the worms are alive and well.

Let’s explore this topic a little further to understand why it’s better to fish with live worms, troubleshoot why your worms keep dying, and then discuss what you can do about it. I’ll also touch base a bit on what worms are best for fishing, and share a few resources that will help you rig them correctly.

Why You Should Fish With Worms

Before we go any further, let’s just spend a moment and talk about why you should fish with worms in the first place. My website primarily deals with helping families learn to fish, and one of the maxims I live by is that you want to pursue quantity over quality when you’re getting started. This helps keep kids interested and engaged.

The bottom line is that fish really like worms. They can’t keep their lips off of them. So if you want to catch a lot of fish with your kids, nightcrawlers and other worms are a great choice.

Another great reason to fish with worms is that they help keep fishing inexpensive. I wrote an article where I tried to help people keep their new fishing hobby affordable. One of the main arguments I made was that bait, and specifically worms, can be free. All you have to do is go dig them up!

If you’re just getting started, or are trying to help a young child get started, I suggest that you bring some nightcrawlers along for your trip. Nighcrawlers are inexpensive, easy to use, and don’t bite. They’re the perfect bait for kids.

What Fish Bite Nightcrawlers?

I’m convinced you could catch any carnivorous fish in the world with a nightcrawler. Everything from largemouth bass to mud fish bite nightcrawlers routinely on my fishing trips. I’ve caught brown trout with a spinner and worm, sucker fish, northern pike, chain pickerel and everything in-between on a nightcrawler. Catfish and bullhead especially are great fish to go for with nightcrawlers, as they’ll bit them single or in giant clusters on the same hook. And of course, all the kid favorites like bluegill, yellow perch, pumpkinseeds, rockbass, and crappie love eating worms. In short, every fish in the sea will bite a nightcrawler – you can’t go wrong!

But Why Do Fish LIKE Worms?

In a sea full of artificial lures and danger, worms are the real thing. To fish, worms smell good, taste good, feel good, and look good. They have a natural smell that is better than any fish attractant. Their taste, apparently, is better than plastic or wood (I’ll have to take the fish’s word on this). They have a natural feeling that lets a fish know they’ve hit the real deal and not some imitation. Finally, they have enticing little wriggles that work better than any twitch of a jerkbait. When a fish sees a worm, they know that they’re staring at a nutritious meal, so if nothing spooks them, they’re more apt to bite.

Why You Should Use Live Worms vs. Dead Worms

I’m not going to tell you that dead worms never work, as many fish will eat them, but I will say that they don’t seem to work as well as live ones for many species that you might target with your kids (chiefly panfish and bass).

First, let’s define what exactly I mean by “dead worms.” I’m not suggesting that you take a pulse, but you do need to understand that nightcrawlers go through a few stages during a fishing trip: (1) Alive; (2) Possibly Alive but in Poor Condition and; (3) Dead.

Stage 1: Fully Alive Worms

When you first open up a box of nightcrawlers that has been properly stored in a fridge, you will notice that they are plump and juicy. If you touch them, they quickly pull back and try to escape. These night crawlers are fully alive. They have several advantages:

  • They are durable. If you tried to break them into pieces, it would be difficult without a pair of scissors. Worms that are alive stand up better to panfish pecking away at them.
  • They are more appealing to fish. When you put them on your hook, you’ll find that they squirm about and put up a fuss. They continue doing this under the water, which makes them look like prey. Fish like eating worms that are moving around enticingly.
  • They are larger. This goes hand in hand with being more appealing, but you have a better chance of catching a larger fish. Remember, in nature, life is a game of energy conservation. Predators don’t want to waste energy for petty offerings, but they will spend some energy if they think it will land them a solid meal.

I understand that some of you might question my claim that worms are more durable while they’re alive. You might say, “But John, I just put a plump nightcrawler on my hook, and the bluegill tore it to shreds!”

Well, yes. They grabbed its tail and tore it right off. Probably its midsection too. But what about its head – the piece that is directly baited on the hook? I’ll bet that part is still there, and I’ll bet it stays there through several fish before you need to swap it out. In fact, if you’re going with your kids, you might want to just start with a small piece as you’ll catch many more panfish per worm that way.

In contrast, if you were using nightcrawlers or worms that were drying out such as those described below in Stage 2, the fish would be apt to steal the entire bait in one go, because it has lost much of its durability. It would be pretty common to have to change bait after each cast, which can end your day in a hurry.

Stage 2: Possibly Alive, but in Poor Condition

If you’re fishing with worms on a hot day and don’t keep them in a cooler, you will notice that they start to get smaller throughout the day. These worms are doing poorly, and may die before long. As worms enter this stage, they lose some of the characteristics of healthy worms:

  • Worms that have been left in the heat are nowhere near as durable. They easily break without the need for any scissors.
  • Worms that are nearly dead are less appealing to some species of fish, like largemouth bass. Your best chance of catching a bass on a worm is to use a large one that is lively. You’re much less likely to catch one with a worm that is almost dead.
  • They are smaller. Look at the photo below to see a very clear difference between worms that are alive, and worms that are nearly (or already) dead.
Yes, you can fish with dead worms, but fish don't like them as much as alive ones.  This photo shows the difference between the two.
The worms on the left were stored in a cooler. The worms on the right were not. After just an hour or so of fishing, you can see quite a difference in size.

Stage 3: Dead Worms

When a worm first dies it will usually look like a worm in Stage 2 discussed above, but will be completely limp and won’t move at all. Fishing with dead worms has several disadvantages:

  • Dead worms are not durable in the first stage of death, but will become hard as rocks if left in the sun. Early in death, they are pulled off the hook easily, and late in death, you rarely get bites.
  • Dead worms have very little appeal to any species that favors living worms. Nature has very specialized roles for different animals, and fish are no different. There are certain fish that primarily eat the dead, and others that prefer live quarry.

At some point you’re going to leave a bit of a worm on a hook for a spell while you try something else. You’ll come back to it and it’ll look completely dried out. You can try tossing it in and you might even get a bite, but I wouldn’t recommend starting off this way. I usually just replace them with a fresh worm.

Do Any Fish Prefer Dead Worms?

As a general rule, you’re much better off with live worms. One of the main reasons why fish like worms is because they’re plump, juicy and wriggling. Bass especially want a larger, wriggling target and would hesitate to strike a dead worm over a live one.

All the same, dead worms do work for fishing. Indeed, fish that really enjoy stinky foods, such as bullhead and catfish, would enjoy a heaping of dead worms, but the problem of durability discussed above is going to make it hard to keep the worm on the hook long enough for them to bite.

Remember, it’s not so much that a fish won’t bite a dead worm. Rather, the issue is that if they bite it away from the hook, they’re apt to tear the whole offering off of the hook harmlessly.

If you do find yourself in a situation where all your worms are dead, do your best to ball a bunch of them up on the hook so it’s less likely the entire offering will be stolen with one peck.

You can also borrow a trick from catfishermen and place a handful of worms into a little pouch of cheesecloth or old leggings. This will let the scent dissipate without the worms pulling from the hook, but you’ll eliminate most chance of a panfish taking the bait (unless the pouch is very small).

Why Do Worms Die?

Sometimes worms die for unknown reasons in shipping or storage at the tackle shop. You would be well advised to open each worm container and take a look and whiff. A box of dead or dying worms will often have a white mold like substance growing in the container and will smell very bad. What you want is clean, dark soil that smells like soil.

Assuming that you bought them alive and they later died, the most likely reason for their misfortune is that you allowed them to become too hot, as temperatures above 77 °F (25 °C) will cause them to weaken and eventually die. The higher the temperature, the quicker their death.

Nightcrawlers and worms also die when they lose too much moisture. This is why they come packaged in some soil. Ever notice how it is very wet and messy at first? That moisture keeps your bait alive and wriggling. If you’re storing your own worms at home, don’t forget to change the soil out from time to time and moisten it a bit with a sprayer.

Finally, worms die because creatures like fish eat them. That is the only death you’re aiming for.

Is There a Way to Make Fishing Worms More Enticing?

I was recently chatting with a gentleman from Slovenia who spends a lot of time fishing for carp with worms. He advises cutting a small portion of the worm’s tail off, to produce more scent in the water. The concept makes sense and might explain part of the reason why using bits of worms is so effective with panfish. I’d always thought panfish were just dumb, but perhaps the added scent is really what is driving the feeding frenzy. It’s something worth trying!

Will Worms Drown While Fishing?

Many folks want to know if worms will drown while you’re fishing. People are familar with seeing worms surface on a rainy day and they assume that they’re doing this to get air. Contrary to popular belief, worms don’t surface in the rain because they’re “drowning.” In fact, as long as the water has enough oxygen content for them to breath, nightcrawlers are actually fine completely underwater.

While this is a little bit of an academic question, it has practical use for fishermen, because you can keep your worm plump and juicy longer if you let it rest in the water a bit while you aren’t using it, as opposed to just putting it down on the shore to bake in the sun. Just make sure you use a rod holder in case a big fish comes along!

I’ve heard of some people livening up their worms a bit by putting them into chilled water for thirty minutes or so, and if your worms have started drying out I suppose it stands to reason that this might work. In any event, it’s worth a shot.

Do Nightcrawlers Work For Night Fishing?

Yes, you can fish with nightcrawlers and other worms at night. In fact, the scent that they produce is going to help certain species home in on them and bite them. The only thing to consider is what species you intend to target. You will catch a lot of catfish and bullhead while fishing nightcrawlers and worms at night. Odds are these species will get to the worms long before bass home in on them after it gets dark.

Can You Use Nightcrawlers for Saltwater Fishing?

The salt in saltwater isn’t very good for nightcrawlers. They do tend to break down quickly in these conditions and fall off of the hook. With that said, if a fish gets to your hook before the worm is ruined, nightcrawlers are very effective at catching them. Go ahead and use nightcrawlers in saltwater if that’s your only option, but most folks will tell you to buy blood worms or other dedicated saltwater, hardier baits instead.

Can You Use Worms For Ice Fishing?

There’s no reason you can’t use worms or nightcrawlers for ice fishing. Any fish that will bite a nightcrawler during the summer will bite the same worm in the winter. Using live bait like a worm for ice fishing is a great way to entice bites from fish who might hesitate to chase an artificial lure in the frigid temps. The only trick is finding the worms as many bait shops don’t carry them in the winter. You might need to buy them in bulk, or keep them alive until you have a chance to use the worms on your favorite ice fishing hole.

Where to Buy Live Worms For Fishing?

Many gas stations, sporting goods stores, and almost all baitshops will have various species of worms for sale. They typically are sold by the dozen, and some places carry packages of several dozen. You’ll know an establish sells them because they typically keep a “We Sell Bait” or “Live Bait” sign out front.

Buying worms by the dozen can get expensive. You will get a better deal if you purchase them online. I get my worms from Windsor Wholesale Bait. Buying in bulk allows me to save a ton of money. I prefer Windsor Wholesale Bait because I enjoy fishing with Canadian Nightcrawlers. If you’d prefer smaller worms, you can find specieis such as Uncle Jim’s Worm Farm’s Red Wigglers on Amazon. Some people prefer the smaller worms for panfish.

How to Catch Your Own Worms

If you don’t want to buy worms, you have two choices: wait for a rainy day to scoop them off your street, or go out in search of nightcrawlers at night. If you go after your own, try and find open fields that get a little moisture from sprinklers or morning dew (some large sports fields at your local school may work well). The only trick is to see if that school uses anything like a pesticide to keep the worms and other critters away. Clearly, those aren’t your best bet.

Here’s a video with some other great tips of how to catch your own worms. I particularly like the idea about using spare cardboard to catch them (we all have plenty of that these days)!

How Can I Keep My Nightcrawlers Alive for Fishing?

In most cases you’re going to purchase a few dozen worms a day or two before your fishing trip. You would do well to keep them in the fridge until you’re ready to use them. This will keep them fresh for up to a few weeks, though I like to use them soon so I don’t forget about them.

It gets trickier to keep them alive when you’re fishing. You will want to bring a cooler and keep them in it when you aren’t using them. This cooler should probably be separate from the one you’re storing your food in, because the lids on worm packages are prone to popping off, especially if your kids keep playing with it.

You could also consider buying a specialty cooler for your worms. What type you choose is going to depend on if you’re fishing from a boat (where you presumably have some room), or if you’re hoofing it on foot and need to pack light.

Some Good Ways to Store Worms and Nightcrawlers

If you’re fishing from a boat, a great option is the Unexcelled Fishing Keep Kool Live Bait Cooler. While this isn’t the lightest option (it is 7 pounds before adding ice), it has a great design where the worms are kept in an inner box that is surrounded by an outer insulated box for ice. It also has a carrying handle, and is rectangular with a flat bottom, making it easy to store. This is definitely an upgrade from storing worms in your lunch cooler.

If you’re fishing from shore and planning to cover much ground, a nifty little product is the Zebco Lil Wormcooler. It’s small (4.5 x 4.5 x 4 inches), light weight at 1.12 ounces, and comes with a handle that you could clip to your belt (you’ll need to buy a clip separately). This means it is one less thing to have to carry in your hands, which is important when you’re walking from spot to spot.

Other Ways to Store Nightcrawlers

If you don’t have two coolers and don’t want to put your worms and food in the same one, you can make their own container a cooler of sorts by putting an ice cube or two in a plastic bag and then burying it in the worm container.

Some people forget the dirt altogether and just put their nightcrawlers into a bucket of ice. Believe it or not, this actually keeps them well. Just make sure the ice is wet before you add the worms or the moist worms will stick to the ice and tear. This is a great solution for people who don’t want worm dirt all over their boats and hands.

As we’ve discussed, worms can stay alive in water for great lengths of time, so even if the ice melts, they’ll still be alive and usable.

What Can I Feed My Worms?

If you’re going to keep worms for an extended period of time, you’re going to need to figure out something to feed them. You’ll want to feed them about once a week.

There are several manufactured worm foods out there on the market. These are advertised as having numerous different minerals and nutrients that will help your worms grow while you’re waiting to use them. I fish often enough that I’ve never had need of these, but I have no reason to doubt the claims as others seem to love the product. A popular choice is Frabill Fat and Sassy Worm Food.

When I’m keeping worms it’s usually not going to be for more than 3-4 weeks, so I just use my coffee grounds. It’s a byproduct that I already own, so I don’t need to go buy something new, and it’s even recommended by the worm experts.

What’s the Best Way to Fish With Nightcrawlers?

You can rig worms in several ways, but the three easiest for newer fishermen to try plain hooks, drop shots, and bobbers.

Fishing a Worm on a Plain Hook

Fishing a worm on a plain hook is as simple as it sounds. You just pierce the worm with the hook and toss it in the water. There are several theories about how to put the worm on the hook. Some people thread the hook through the worms head and leave its tail dangling. Others kind of bunch the squirming worm up on the hook without much rhyme or reason. Either works, but bear in mind that anything a fish can snag without touching the hook will be quickly stolen.

Bass seem to prefer nightcrawlers that are rigged so that their tails are off the hook, dangling enticingly in the water. A largemouth bass is a large enough fish that they can grab the entire worm in one gulp, but if panfish get to a worm rigged this way first, that tail is disappearing with nothing to show for it.

The Drop Shot

I’ve written extensively about how to rig drop shots and why I love them on another article. I won’t repeat the information, but I will give you the basic theory: a dropshot has the hook tied 6-12″ inches above a sinker. The sinker falls to the bottom and keeps the worm suspended up above slightly where fish are more likely to see it. This is a great technique for fishing (especially with kids) and I suggest you try it.

Fishing Nightcrawlers with a Bobber

I am not a fan of bobbers, but many people are. They do allow you to keep a bait up off the bottom, much like a drop shot, but they also tend to encourage people to put their rod down and wait for something to bite. This is boring, and also can be counterproductive as many bites will go undetected. You should probably bring a few along in case you need to keep your bait above some obstruction, but I wouldn’t start with them.

In Conclusion: Keep Your Worms Alive

If you want to have the best chance for success, you should do what you can to keep your worms alive. While you can fish with dead worms, from my experience, live worms work better than dead ones.

Even if fish didn’t have a preference one way or another, the sheer durability of the bait while alive and moist is going to mean that you’ll get more use out of it, and have less frustration.

It’s not fun for you (or your kids) to constantly feel nibbles and never have something to reel in. I know from experience that this can happen if you have dead worms that tear off the hook easily. It becomes very frustrating on days where not much is biting, as you need to land the few fish that do.

Simple Steps to Make Worms and Nightcrawlers Last Longer

In sum, follow these simple steps to make your worms last longer for your fishing trip:

  1. Check the worm container at the store to make sure the worms are alive. The container should smell like dirt as opposed to decomposing flesh;
  2. Store the worms in a cool, dark place where they and their soil won’t dry out;
  3. Feed them coffee grounds about once a week if you need to store them indefinitely;
  4. If you need to put the rod down for a long time in the heat, keep the worm dangling in the water so it doesn’t dry out.

One of the main maxims I teach about fishing with kids is to control what you can, when you can. Keeping worms alive before and during your fishing trip is an achievable goal. Make every effort to do so, as it will help you have a better time out there on the water with your kids.

Thanks,

John Paxton

How to Buy Used Fishing Rods With Confidence

If your family is just starting to learn to fish, you could be in for some “sticker shock” when you look at the fishing rods section at your local tackle shop. With some rods running several hundred dollars, you might wonder: is it worth it to buy an expensive fishing rod? In a word, yes, it is. But it’s even better when you buy that expensive fishing rod used. This article will help you learn what to look for when buying a used rod.

Why Expensive Fishing Rods Are Worth It

There’s little point in considering the benefits of buying a used fishing rod unless you understand why expensive ones are worth it. I wrote an entire article that goes into that topic in detail, and I suggest that you read it. It breaks down an entire lineup of rods that I own and discusses the pros and cons of each.

For those in a rush, expensive rods are more sensitive, tend to be a lighter weight, and are better balanced. This means that you can detect fish bites easier, and fish for longer without becoming tired.

Why Buying An Expensive Fishing Rod Used is the Way to Go

Buying your fishing rods used is a great way to reduce expenses while still acquiring quality equipment, but it can be a little nerve-wracking. You might worry that there’s something wrong with the rod and you’re buying a lemon.

While it’s always going to be tough to judge a rod by some photos in an online auction, I do have some tips for how you can purchase a used fishing rod with confidence. If everything is OK with the rod, you get a smoking deal, but even if something goes wrong, you’ll at least break even with what the cost of a new rod would have been with the method I’m about to teach you.

I know this works because I’m the second owner for most of my fishing rods, and I have learned a thing or two after several dozen purchases.

In this article, I will teach you how to research a warranty to know the “break even point” for price, examine a rod in person or from photos, and then buy it without losing any sleep.

It should go without saying that much of the issues I’ll discuss aren’t a huge deal for a children’s starter rod that you pick up at a tag sale. The scope of this article is more directed at the nicer rods that you might wish to acquire used.

NOTE: Further down, I’ll show you a case study showing my exact methodology while researching an actual high-end rod. I’m not going to use the manufacturer’s name because the terms and conditions of their warranty could change at any moment, as could their product’s price.

Step 1: What to Look For When Buying a Used Rod

There are some ways that you can tell if a used fishing rod is damaged before you buy it. If you’re buying online, get as many photos as you can and ask the seller for more if necessary. If in person, examine the following very carefully:

The Line Guides Especially the Tip

Before buying a used fishing rod, look at the line guides and examine them for any signs of wear. Specifically, you want to make sure that they all appear aligned properly, that the threads holding them to the rod appear to be original, and that there are no deep cuts or gouges in the line guides.

While some rods are designed with guides that don’t all align properly, if there is obviously an issue with one of them being bent too far, it could be a warning sign that the rod hasn’t been maintained very well. It’s not that hard of a thing to fix (gentle pressure will usually bend it back) but it is a possible failure point in the future that you should be aware of.

Line guides are held onto the rod blank by two sets of threaded bands on the top and bottom of the guide. These are wound tightly and have a finish applied over them. If one set of bands is a distinctly different color than the others, it could be a sign of prior damage. You will want to double check and make sure that this wasn’t a stylistic choice of the manufacturer before you pass on a rod because of this.

Older line guides weren't always great with braid.  Make sure you inspect these before buying any fishing rod used, or you could make an expensive mistake that isn't worth it.
Ensure you inspect each line guide for damage. A scuff here could cost you the fish of the lifetime.

You’ll also want to double check each guide to make sure that the spacer or insert within each guide is intact. Some manufacturers have a metal circle that they place inside of the guides and these are common failure points. You’ll notice that they are missing on some rods.

Some older rods don’t do very well with braided line because the line cuts into their guides over time and creates a groove. This in turn can compromise your fishing line if it touches the groove as it passes through the damaged guide.

Many people secure their hooks and lures against the line guides. This is terrible for them as the sharp hooks can ding them up and damage them, but it is prevalent. Basically, just check for anything that seems out of the norm. It’s easy to do this in person, just run your finger through each guide and see if it feels smooth. When buying online, this obviously isn’t an option, so insist on good photos.

Bear in mind that all of these issues are only magnified as you move further up the rod blank towards the tip. The guides all get smaller and more fragile and more likely to break. There is no shortage of fishing rods in this world with a broken tip.

If the fishing rod tip is damaged, pass on buying it.
Pay close attention to the tip of the fishing rod you’re thinking of purchasing. If anything is likely to be damaged, this is it.

The Handle

Before buying a used fishing rod, look at its handle, especially if it is cork. Check for pitting or gouges in the cork. A little is normal but you wouldn’t want anything excessive as it is a sign that the rod was neglected or is very old.

You’ll also want to check the coloration. Cork will darken over time as grime, dust, and sweat rub into it from fishing. Lighter cork could indicate less use, or it could simply indicate a seller who bothered to clean up the rod and make it presentable.

Maybe I’m reading too much into it, but when I see a cork handle for sale that needs a proper cleaning, a little voice asks, “If the seller can’t be bothered to clean this before listing it for $200, what other maintenance did he forgo?”

Expensive fishing rods like St. Croix come with high-quality cork.  Inspect it for damage before buying a used fishing rod.
The pitting at the bottom of this rod indicates that it has seen some use. I know this because I bought it new 10 years ago and have brought it on plenty of adventures. This would be fixable if I was so inclined, but it doesn’t affect the action of the rod.

If you’re in person, make sure that you check the reel seat to see if it feels tight and snug, as these tend to loosen over the years (bringing along your own reel to test it with will help). This is a fairly annoying issue if you don’t catch it, and it almost cost me a reel once that fell into the depths of Otter Creek, Vermont (Luckily, I was able to retrieve it – 1 yard at a time).

The Hook Holder

Many rods have a hook holder near their handle. This is generally a piece of metal that almost looks like a paper clip. After I had the little bilge fiasco that I discussed in this thread, I noticed that a few of my rods started rusting over in this area.

This doesn’t seem to have affected their action at all but you have to figure that eventually the hook holder will fail and I’ll need to find another option. Though they do sell some snap on hook holders, you really don’t want to add unnecessary weight to a high-caliber rod, so you’re better off if you can find a rod without this issue.

Examine the hook keeper before you buy a fishing rod used.  While this is a minor element, if it is damaged, it can be a sign that the rod was abused.
It’s a little bit hard to see but there is some rust near the hook holder. It’s not supposed to be there and can’t possibly help, but it is definitely something that would be very easy to overlook.

The Label

This is one of the most important things to look for when buying a used fishing rod, especially if it is a more expensive brand. Many manufacturers will void their warranty on a rod by removing or scuffing up their label. This indicates that the rod had a traumatic failure (usually a snapped tip), was returned to the factory and repaired, but is not as good as new.

If you see a rod with a missing label, you run a significant risk that there is no warranty or an exceptionally short warranty (that may or may not transfer to the second owner, anyway). It might not be worth it to buy an expensive brand of fishing rod that is missing its label as that could be a sign that it is damaged and no longer as sensitive.

You’ll notice in online listings that these rods tend to have an unusual length. Whereas many rods come in 6’6″ or 6’8″ sizes, very few deliberately are 6’4″ or 6’7″. Double check what you’re buying and make sure that the rod is truly as advertised.

Always check for the label when buying fishing rods used.  It may still be worth it to buy an expensive fishing rod without one, but bear in mind the warranty has likely lapsed.
Do not accept any excuse for why this label is missing. It was likely removed at the factory due to catastrophic damage to the rod that will forever change its action. While there is certainly a market for these and inexpensive rods to be had, they will not perform as intended.

“B-Stock” Rods

While we’re on the topic of understanding exactly what you’re buying, you should realize that some manufacturers will sell so-called “B-Stock” rods at a steep discount. These are rods that were flagged during the manufacturing process as having some sort of blemish, or that were returned with very little use.

They aren’t going to carry the same warranty, which makes them more dangerous to purchase (and renders my method below useless), but as long as the seller identifies them as such, you don’t have to question their honesty.

Step 2: Research the Fishing Rod and Its Warranty

Physical blemishes and defects aren’t the only things you need to look for when buying a used fishing rod. You also need to consider issues such as how expensive the rod is new, and what kind of warranty it comes with.

If you don’t do this research, you might find yourself in a situation where you think you’re getting a great deal on an expensive brand of fishing rod, but you’re actually buying it for more than it’s worth.

New Cost – (Used Cost + Warranty Deductible + Shipping)

When I’m thinking about buying a used fishing rod on E-Bay, I’m trying to figure out if the used rod is truly worth it and safe to buy. You might see a rod listed for $50 less than new and think to yourself, “well, why wouldn’t it be worth it – I can save $50!!!”

OK… So what if the rod breaks instantly and the warranty deductible is $60? Still think it’s a good deal? Of course not.

The equation I use when purchasing a rod used is:

“New Cost – (Used Cost + Warranty Deductible + Shipping).

I use this method to make sure that I never pay more than a new rod would have cost me, even if the rod breaks on my first cast.

Research the “Actual” New Cost of the Fishing Rod

An important thing to look for when buying a used rod is what that same rod costs rod new. You’ll also want to understand if it ever goes on sale, and if so, for how much. Knowing this will allow you to put a number on the “actual” new cost of the rod. If you skip this step, you’ll never know if that “deal” you found on that expensive fishing rod is really worth clicking “Buy It Now.”

Some of the bigger fishing stores out there like Bass Pro Shops have their own branded products that they put on sale regularly. Generally speaking, they have a sale around most of the holidays and also a very big “Spring Fishing Classic” each year. You can often find their products heavily discounted, and their fishing rods and reels especially tend to be high quality.

If you’re looking at a rod from one of these shops, you need to get an idea of how much it might be discounted in the near future to understand what the “true” new cost is. It changes from year to year so honestly I’d just go to some fishing forums like www.ultimatebass.com, www.bassresource.com, or www.walleyecentral.com and ask around to see what deals different members have received.

If, on the other hand, you’re looking at a so-called “elite” fishing rods from a name brand, realize that they don’t usually go on sale at individual retail stores. Often, the manufacturers insist that the tackle shops out there sell their rods for a certain price and do not allow discounting.

If you want to buy these on sale, you generally need to sign up for the manufacturer newsletter and buy directly from them. Most often, the rods they offer for sale are either brand new models they want to get out there, or discontinued items that they still have lying around. This makes these sales very tough to predict and I wouldn’t bother waiting. Just consider the MSRP as the new cost.

Understand the Warranty in Detail

A well-made fishing rod can last a lifetime if reasonably cared for, which is one of the main reasons why its worth it to buy expensive fishing rods used. Thirty years later, I’m still using some rods I first cast as a child. All of those were second hand from my father.

Unfortunately, if you’re buying used, you’ll usually have little idea if the last owner abused it. This can be scary, especially if you’re looking at an expensive rod up for auction.

A rod’s warranty can remove the fear of purchasing it used if you understand what the warranty actually covers. Check the manufacturer’s website and look for the fine print on that used fishing rod model before you buy it. Here is the warranty information for St. Croix rods, which is my personal favorite brand.

You need to understand the fine print. Namely, will the warranty transfer to a second owner and what is the deductible for that second owner in case of damage? Further, who pays for the shipping? Is it included in the deductible fee or extra?

This is very important. Many manufacturers offer a much more robust warranty for original owners which obviously won’t help you when buying used. You need to read through the fine print and figure out exactly what you’re getting into.

You also need to understand if there is anything that second owner must do to transfer the warranty to their name. Some companies require registration on their website while others require nothing at all.

I’ve found that some companies reduce the warranty length for second owners. Whereas they might offer the original purchaser a lifetime warranty, a second owner may only get 10 years from the date of manufacture.

“Well, how on earth would I know this?” you ask? Look for a series of weird numbers on your rod. That is the serial number. If you call them or visit their website with that information, they should be able to tell you. Make sure you do this. You need to know if the warranty is still in effect or this entire process I’m teaching you is worthless.

Understand the “Actual” Used Cost

This is the easiest part of the whole equation – what is the seller asking for and how much do they want to ship the rod to you? Is the fishing rod worth buying at that price, or is it actually more expensive than if you bought it new?

I would submit that if you’re looking for the absolute best deal, you should consider if the price is negotiable, or (if purchasing through auction) if the “buy it now” price is actually better than what the rod will typically command after bidding. These will help you determine which one you should target.

Understand if shipping is a fixed cost, or based on your location. Try and get the seller to commit to a firm number agreed to in advance if possible, or even waive the shipping costs as part of the deal. Sometimes, it’s possible to meet someone and pick the rod up in person. Just make sure you stay safe while doing this, and meet in a well-lit public place.

Step 3: Do the Math and Make a Decision

Once you have your numbers, do some math. I promised you that I would use a “real world” example, and here it is. Again, I’m not using the manufacturer info because they could change their warranty conditions at any moment and I don’t want you to rely on outdated warranty information and find yourself underwater.

For the purposes of this study, let’s assume four things:

  1. You’re looking to buy a used rod from a seller you do not know;
  2. Unbeknownst to you, the rod was broken through negligence (i.e. not a manufacturer defect) and the seller is either unaware of this or trying to pull a fast one;
  3. You don’t have any guarantee that you’ll get your money back;
  4. You need this rod and will replace it if it breaks.

Bear in mind that the goal here is to avoid EVER buying a used fishing rod for more than it would have cost new.

Case Study #1
It wouldn't be worth it to buy this fishing rod used as it is too expensive when you break it down.

Here we have an online “buy it now” option for a high-end rod. As you can see, this is a terrible deal. At best, you’re only saving $9.99, yet you’re exposing yourself to $75.01 of risk. You should not purchase this used rod.

Case Study #2
Buying this high-quality fishing rod used would be a much better deal.

This is a much better deal. While you won’t break even, even if the rod was broken, you’re only out $4.12 over what the cost of a new rod would have been if you bought it new in the first place. I can stomach $4.12 of risk for the potential $80.88 savings.

If I was in the market for this rod, and it looked reasonably maintained from the photos, I would jump on this one and not lose a wink of sleep.

But How Should I Bid On a Used Fishing Rod?

You can use this same exact method to determine what your maximum bid should be when you’re trying to buy a used fishing rod. The only difference is you don’t worry about the asking/selling price, because you don’t know what that is yet. It will be whatever the top bidder is willing to pay.

Your job is to figure out what you’re willing to pay without exposing yourself to more risk than you can handle, should the experience go south.

Here’s an example from a current auction:

As you can see, if the bidding ended today, the buyer would get a phenomenal deal, but even if the cost increases, any price lower than $258.05 guarantees that in the absolute worst case scenario, you aren’t paying more for a used item than it costs new, and in fact, you might one day wind up with a new rod for a discount.

Closing Thoughts

I enjoy fishing tremendously and have bought several fishing rods over the years used with confidence by employing this method. I personally feel that it is worth it to buy expensive fishing rods, but only if the price is right. Because I know what to look for when buying a used fishing rod, I’ve been able to use this system to expand my arsenal with expensive, high quality fishing rods, all without breaking my budget.

It’s not rocket science but it is also not something that everyone thinks about, so I thought I’d write it to try and help someone out there. I’m clearly not getting any commission on an article that suggests you buy products used, so I hope you feel you can trust my advice!

If you enjoyed this article, consider purchasing my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide. In it, you will find numerous tips and tricks for teaching children to fish. If you are trying to get your kids (or yourself) into this sport, or know someone who is, it’s worth a read.

Thanks,

John Paxton