St. Croix Triumph Spinning and Casting Rods Review

If you’ve been reading my blog for awhile, you’re aware that I really enjoy St. Croix Rods. While I’ve written about them many times in the past, I thought it would be good to write a more detailed review for you. I’m going to start with a review on the St. Croix Triumph Spinning and Casting Rods. I’ll tell you if they’re worth it and what type of techniques I’d use them for.

Is the St. Croix Triumph a Good Fishing Rod?

In my opinion, the St. Croix Triumph is a really good fishing rod for anyone who is passionate about fishing, but doesn’t have hundreds of dollars to spend on a setup. They are St. Croix’s “entry level” model and available at most sporting goods stores (their higher end stuff often isn’t), but don’t let this dissuade you. An entry level St. Croix rod is still a great purchase, and miles above many other manufacturers.

While you aren’t getting the best components the company has to offer, this is still a great rod that is relatively lightweight and sensitive. The SCII graphite blank has held up to everything my son and I have put it up against without fail. I also appreciate how it has a classic look. I know that is cosmetic, but I’m not much for the flashy rods out there. The Triumph series has a very subdued look to it which I appreciate.

If you don’t have a nice rod yet, then this is a great one to start with. If you do have “better” rods, then this can still be a good addition to your arsenal. I own most types of rods that St. Croix makes from the Triump to the Legend Xtreme and I’ll tell you, you don’t need a hypersensitive blank for every technique. You can save yourself a lot of money by being sensible and picking up a few from the Triumph series for your spinnerbaits and other lures that don’t require the same sensitivity.

Versatility

One great thing about this tier of rods is that they are versatile. With six types in its “family,” there’s a rod for every situation.

You can buy St. Croix Triumph spinning and casting rods in either single piece or as two-piece travel rod. The Triumph lineup also has dedicated salmon and steelhead spinning and casting rods. Finally, there is “the big boy” Triumph Musky rod, though this is only available as a casting rod.

Available Rod Length, Power, and Action in the Triumph Lineup

The St. Croix Triumphs add to their versatility by coming in a lew of sizes, powers, and actions. For example, the spinning rod can be found in lengths from 5′ all the way to 7’6 and powers ranging from ultra light to medium heavy. The smaller sizes work well with kids making this a great birthday present for a grandchild. They light up knowing they have a “special” rod, and you don’t break the bank buying it for them.

There aren’t as many options with the St. Croix Triumph casting rods, but that is because you don’t throw as light of tackle on baitcasters. There are currently five models available in the base spinning, ranging from a 6′ medium power / fast action to a 7′ medium heavy power / fast action. If I was getting started, I’d grab the latter as it would work well for spinnerbaits, plastic worms, and lighter jigs.

If you’re looking for a rod that could handle plastic frogs and heavier jigs, remember that you do have the option of beefing up to the St. Croix Musky lineup. They have several models, such as their 7’6″ Heavy / Fast action that would work just fine for tossing a few toads.

I don’t fish much for salmon or steelhead but the Triumph series comes in a variety of longer models to accommodate fishing for those species. I see no reason why they too wouldn’t be quality products.

You Can Fish for Darn Near Anything

All of this versatility means that you can fish for just about anything with these rods. The ultralight models are great for panfish and the Musky models are great for… Well… Musky.

If you like throwing crankbaits, you can find some medium light models that would work well. The 6’6″ medium / fast rod would do just fine with jerkbaits, and as said above, there are plenty for worms and spinnerbaits. This means that if there’s any hole in your arsenal of fishing rods, you can plug it affordably. That’s important in this day and age.

Where are St. Croix Triumph Rods Made?

If you are looking for an American-made rod, the Triumph will disappoint. While it is designed in Park Falls, Wisconsin, it is manufactured in Fresnillo, Mexico.

Do St. Croix Triumph Rods Come With a Warranty?

The St. Croix Triumph lineup comes with a five year warranty. St. Croix rods offer good warranty service in general (trust me, I’ve had to use it a few times). You should visit their website for full details as they seem to strive to make this better each year. For example, I see they now have an “Excelerator” program that will get you a rod much more quickly, as they’re able to process it based on a photo.

Would I Buy One of These Rods for My Kid?

My children are still young so casting rods are out of the question, but I have purchased a St. Croix Triumph spinning rod for my son. I wouldn’t recommend this as the first rod you purchase for a kid. You’ll want to ensure they like the sport first, and also make sure they know how to take care of their stuff, as this is no Ugly Stik, but I’d have no qualms about recommending this rod for any child who fits that bill.

What Reel Should I Pair This With?

You could put pretty much any spinning or casting reel on a Triumph but, again, one of the benefits of this tier is it isn’t that expensive. It wouldn’t make much sense to take out a second mortgage for a reel for this rod. Instead, I’d keep things simple. I have Plfueger Trions paired with my Triumphs and they work quite well. For casting, I’d go with a Pro Qualifier from Bass Pro which you can often get on sale.

Conclusions

If you’re in the market for your first “nice” rod, it’s hard to beat a St. Croix Triumph spinning or casting rod. They comes in enough lengths, powers, and actions to allow for many presentations and does this all without being too expensive. It is also backed by a 5-year warranty and St. Croix’s great customer service. I own several and wouldn’t hesitate to buy more if my wife wasn’t looking.

Finally, I’d like to invite you to join my new Facebook group to be updated on new articles. I’ve thought about how best to reach folks and decided that I hate mailing lists, so Facebook is the way to go. Please consider liking the page so we can keep in touch.

-Thanks,

John Paxton

Happy Thanksgiving from FishingFather

Hi Folks,

I sit here early this Thanksgiving morning just grateful that God has blessed me with two happy and healthy children, a wonderful wife, and the capacity to take all three of them fishing from time to time. We have a warm house in a safe neighborhood and full bellies. Life is good for now.

I hope all of you reading this also have these things, but if you’re going through a rough patch, just remember that the sun will rise again tomorrow, water will still taste good, and life will be enough, to paraphrase Marc Antony from HBO’s “Rome.”

It’s been awhile since I’ve written anything, mostly because my work duties have expanded and I’ve just found I have so little time to handle a great deal of things. I hope some of you return from time to time to read past blogs that you’ve found helpful, and I’ll get back to it in the near future.

I do want to point out to you that there are good Black Friday deals to be had tomorrow, and there are also things that should have been priced at or below the “special” asking price to begin with. It can be tempting to splurge (A cashier at the sporting goods store once asked me, “Sir, are you ready for your order?”) but if I could give you any advice about tomorrow, splurge on stuff that you actually need.

One thing you might consider trying if you haven’t so far is picking up a baitcaster. I don’t suggest this for people with little time or little children, but if you’re into the sport you ought to learn one eventually, and Bass Pro Shops usually has an awesome deal on their Pro Qualifier this time of year. It’s a very high quality reel that you can often get for the price of an entry-level model. While it is a little heavy, it casts well, has a few braking systems, and is forgiving for the novice.

I also like to use this time to restock lures and items that I lost last summer. It’s not as glamorous as a new rod or reel, but it’s the business end of your set up. Terminal tackle is especially important and good deals can be had. Soft plastics also have good sales going on, many at 40% off or so. Check the usual online distributors (Bass Pro Shops, Monster Tackle, etc.)

Anyway, it’s a shorter post today. I just felt like after so much time away from this I had to break the ice and write something again, but I do have plans for the day as I suspect most of you do and have to run.

Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours,

John Paxton

Why Fish Keep Breaking Your Line (And How to Stop It)

Having a large fish break your line is almost a rite of passage in fishing. As much as it pains us, it’s that kind of experience that keeps us coming back for more and compels us to better understand our sport and how to prevent the frustrating experience from happening again. So why do fish keep breaking your line, anyway?

Your fishing line will break when a force is applied to the line that exceeds the line’s pound test capacity. This is usually caused by one of several reasons:

  1. Your drag is set too tight;
  2. The fish gained leverage;
  3. You were too overeager during the fight (this is a big problem for kids and newer anglers);
  4. There is a defect in your line or knot;
  5. You ran into a fish with sharp teeth, and weren’t using a leader.

Let’s explore this a little further and go into all the reasons fish might break you off so that you can figure out what to do about it.

Define the Problem

To prevent fish from breaking your line, you need to understand which one of these issues is causing the problem, as each has a specific correction. As mentioned above, most of the time when a fish breaks your line, it’s for one of the following reasons:

  • You have your drag set too tight;
  • You’re using too light of line for your abilities;
  • The fish gained leverage;
  • You were too overeager in the fight;
  • There is a defect in your line;
  • Your knot is poorly tied;
  • The fish cut the line with their teeth.

Your Fishing Reel’s Drag Is Set Too Tight

Contrary to popular belief, the pound test of your fishing line is not the be all, end all. What I mean by that is that it is perfectly possible to successfully land fish that weigh significantly more than the pound test your fishing line is rated for. One reason for this is because of the reel’s drag system.

When a fish bites your lure, it tugs on the line and generally tries to swim away from resistance. Thus, a fish will typically try to swim away from you while you are trying to pull it closer towards your boat or shore. Because you and the fish are both pulling in opposite directions, force is applied to the fishing line.

How the Drag Works:

Let’s say you were tightly holding onto a stick that had some fishing line tied to it. Let’s say you only had 10′ of fishing line attached to the end of your stick. If a fish bit your lure and swam away, it would impart force onto the line. The moment you pulled the stick back at the same time to try and stop the fish, you too would be imparting force. If the sum of both of your actions exceeds the pound test rating of the line, it would snap and the fish would swim away with some new jewelry.

The drag system allows the fish to pull off some line without snapping it. It works by applying a certain tension to the spool in pounds. To strip line, the fish must exert more force than the drag’s tension setting.

Thus, if you were using 6 lb test line, and set your drag to 3 lbs, a fish would need to exceed 3 lbs of pressure to strip line from the reel. If they could only muster 2 lbs of force, they would not strip line (but it would not break, either).

Finally, if the fish exerted 10 lbs of pressure on the 6 lb test line, having your drag set at 3 lbs would mean that only 3 lbs of force was imparted on the line (and the fish), so it would not snap.

Accordingly, you should not set your drag setting higher than the pound test your fishing line is rated for.

How To Tell If Your Drag Is Set Right

An easy way to check this is just to pull some line with your hand. If it comes off too easily, your drag is set too loose. If you can’t feel any pressure, neither will the fish. This means you’ll never tire them out or make any gains. Tighten it until you find a good balance where line pulls off fairly easily but it still takes some effort. This will allow your drag to wear down larger fish effectively and eventually land them.

You’re Using Too Light of Line for Your Ability

Although a drag will help a skilled fisherman land a large fish, landing a monster is still a challenging experience. Much can (and will!) go wrong. Many experienced anglers purposefully use lighter line because it increases the challenge for them. If you’re new to this, you might want to avoid that. Just concentrate on getting the fish into the boat in the first place.

Use a line that is strong enough that you can get away with a mistake or two while you’re learning. You don’t know when the next fish is going to bite, and perhaps only one will strike all day. I would not recommend going below 6 lb test line while you are starting off. This is a good balance in that most freshwater fish you’re likely to encounter will be below this size, but the line is also strong enough to give you a fighting chance of landing the occasional larger fish.

You also might consider using braid as it is significantly stronger than other types of line of the same diameter. I’m not crazy about using it with kids as it can cut you badly if you’re not careful. Assuming you’re a grown adult, you should go for it, as it is a great product. I’m personally a fan of PowerPro as it is easy to use, doesn’t ruin my line guides, and has served me well for years.

The Fish Gained Leverage Which Allowed It to Break Your Line

Another common reason that a fish will break your line is that they gain some leverage. This is usually occurs when they wrap the line around a stick or other object that prevents the drag system from working. Once the line wraps around a stick, the stick is essentially the new spool. If the fish can impart more force than the line can withstand, it will break.

Fish can also gain leverage by swimming into your trolling motor, outboard, or even another fisherman’s line. Anything that gets between the drag and the hook is going to be a problem. Play your fish carefully and ask your fishing buddies to reel in their lines if a particularly big one hits.

Heavy weeds are another common way that fish can gain leverage. The second the fish senses that something is wrong, they’ll bolt for the thickest cover they can find. You want to do what you can to prevent this from happening (usually, by fishing with heavy enough line that you can turn them in before they can get to cover).

It’s certainly a balancing act as you don’t want to put too much pressure on the line yourself by trying to keep the fish away from heavy cover, so do what seems to make sense. Your best bet is to be aware of your surroundings and have a plan for how you’re going to play a fish if and when it strikes on your next cast. You don’t want to be caught daydreaming around laydowns.

You Were Too Overeager or Played the Fish Wrong

Many lines snap and many fish are lost at the last second because of an overeager angler. Remember that water is more buoyant than air. If you try and lift a large fish from the water into the boat, its full weight will test the line. Take care with how you land your fish. I’ve written articles to explain how to net a fish properly and how to land fish without a net to prevent your trophy from getting away.

It’s also possible to be too overeager while playing your fish. Take care and avoid trying to horse them in until they’re ready. Only rush things if you absolutely must keep them away from some sharp rocks or a gnarly laydown.

Let your rod help you land the fish. Always make sure that you maintain a bend in your rod. NEVER allow the line to point directly at the fish. The rod’s bend will absorb much of the shock of a running fish. If you point the line directly at the fish, you lose this benefit.

There is a Defect in Your Line or Gear

Check your line often, especially if you are fishing near rocks, wood, bridge pilings, or anything else that is likely to fray your line. The instant that the line has a cut or dent, it will no longer retain its pound test rating. Just consider what would happen to a rope if you unraveled part of it. The same concept applies.

Some lines don’t do well in the sun, or after having been submerged for a long time. Others age poorly and become brittle over time. You’ll find that most professional anglers are paranoid about their line and change it often. They are afraid that if they don’t put on fresh line, a fish will break it soon. While that isn’t a cost-effective option for most of us, you do want to do what you can to take care of your gear. Put it away when you’re done with it and don’t leave it outside exposed to the elements longer than necessary.

As you go through your day, it’s usually a good idea to strip off 6′ to 7′ of line and retie every so often. This ensures that the business end near the fish is fresh, and will help avoid situations where you just didn’t notice the line was frayed.

Finally, it should go without saying that anytime you notice your line was wrapped around or near a sharp part of the fish (be it a pike’s teeth, or even just a bluegill’s gill plate), you’ll want to closely inspect your line and see if it has any damage. When in doubt, change it out.

Defective Line Guides

It’s also worth pointing out that the issue might not be with your line, but the line guides. If you’ve made a habit of hooking your lure to the line guides to keep it in place, you may have cut or damaged them with the hooks. These cuts can have sharp edges that might be damaging your line as it passes through it.

If you don’t have the coin to send it in a rod for repairs, you can try to fix it. One way is to place an epoxy into the cut and then sand it down flush so it no longer is something that can catch the line and fray it. Another is to replace it outright. Here is a video that shows you how to replace your line guides.

Your Knot is Poorly Tied

Even the best fishing knots won’t retain their complete line strength (source). Regardless, if you err in tying one the chances are you’ve made it weaker than usual. A poorly tied knot will not withstand the same force as a well-tied one, will make your line more susceptible to breaking if the fish takes a sudden plunge.

The next time that you tie a knot that doesn’t come out very well, take a closer look at it. You’ll probably see that it is pinching against itself at a weird angle. This is not ideal. If you make a mistake and your knot doesn’t come out right, invest the extra few seconds to try again. This is one place where you don’t want to cut corners.

A well-tied knot is a thing of beauty that we all should aspire to. The last thing you want to worry about when a fish is on the line is if your knot will hold.

Some Fish Break Your Line With Their Teeth

The simplest explanation for why a fish broke your fishing line is that they had sharp teeth. Many freshwater fish such as northern pike, chain pickerel, muskellunge, bowfin, and walleye have the kind of smile any dentist would fear and if you encounter them without a leader, it could be a very short fight.

Even fish that we don’t normally think of as having “teeth” like bass can damage line to the point where they can break off. Most predatory fish that lack what one might consider “true” teeth at least have a very rough, sandpaper-like texture to their mouths to prevent their prey from getting away. The same teeth that cause “bass thumb” after a great day of fishing are equally capable of fraying line if given the chance. Check your line often to make sure it still looks good!

You'll never get a good dose of "bass thumb" like this if fish keep breaking your line!
YouAny fish that can do this to your thumb can do this to your fishing line. Retie often!

I wrote an article that discusses leaders in more detail. I discuss when and where you should use them and what type of leader you want depending on the situation. You can read it here as it will help you overcome these toothy lake monsters.

The bottom line is if you’re fishing in a lake that has apex predators with teeth, you’re going to need to either use a strong leader, use a technique that’s unlikely to allow them to reach the line with their teeth, or prepare to lose a few fish.

Let’s Hope Fish Never Break Your Line Again!

The sinking feeling of losing a fish is not fun, but you can’t let it demotivate you. You never know if that fish had a buddy right next to it, so go ahead and shake it off, retie, and cast again. If you just lost a giant, doing this is easier said than done. At least if you know that you did everything you could to prevent the fish from breaking off, it will help you move on.

Before you cast your line out, make sure that it is in good condition and your knot is tied well. You wouldn’t want your fishing line to break on your cast! If you think there are pike lurking nearby, consider a leader. Test your drag and make sure it’s where you want it. Expect that a fish will bite on each cast and have a plan for how you’re going to steer them away from heavy cover where they can break you off. When you get them close to the boat, make sure their weight is properly supported so you don’t lose them at the last second.

There’s a lot to go wrong and even more to forget in the heat of the moment. At least if you take care of the maintenance before the fish bites, you’ll have a fighting chance.

I hope this article helped you understand why fish keep breaking your line and gave you some pointers on how to prevent it. If you have any additional questions please leave a comment below or send me an email and I’ll do my best to help you.

As always, if you found this article helpful please share it so it can help others. You can also check out my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide for more information on the gear and skills you’ll need to successfully take your kids fishing.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Should You Use a Leader with Braided Line?

Braided fishing line can be a great product, but it stands out.  It’s usually dark green, black, brown, or even bright yellow—none of which are exactly subtle.  Given that, it’s only normal to wonder if fish can see it, or if you should use a leader with braided line. 

As with most questions about fishing, “it depends.”  You don’t need to use a leader with braided line if you’re fishing in murky water or with fast moving baits such as spinnerbaits. You should consider using a leader with braid if fish are likely to have a long look at your lure or if you’re in very clear water.  There is also some benefit to using a fluorocarbon leader with braided line if you’re fishing around sharp obstructions like barnacle-encrusted piers or rocks that are likely to cause abrasions.

Let’s spend a little time discussing the pros and cons of using a leader so you can make an educated decision and optimize your time on the water.

The Benefits of Using a Leader with Braided Line

If you’re going to tie on a leader to any fishing line, it needs to serve the purpose of minimizing the main line’s drawbacks and flaws. With braid, the four biggest issues are visibility, abrasion resistance, and (ironically) its strength and rigidity.

A Leader Is Less Likely to be Seen Than Braid

As mentioned earlier, braided line is exceptionally visible in the water. It is basically colored rope, and unless you’re in very murky water or fishing around similarly-colored vegetation, it’s going to stand out.

This doesn’t really matter much if you’re using a fast technique where the fish aren’t going to get a good look at the lure. I’ve never found the need to tie on a leader when using a spinnerbait, for example, as the fish have such little time to make a decision and react that they aren’t going to notice the line.

It can, however, make a huge difference if you have a slower presentation such as a drop shot or plastic worm where you expect the fish to size up your offering and consider its options, especially if you’re in clear what were the braid is going to stick out.

Fluorocarbon is a great leader material because it is practically invisible underwater. This eliminates one of braid’s main drawbacks, which might be the difference between catching fish or going home empty handed.

Some Leader Materials are More Abrasion-Resistant Than Braid

Given how braided line is renowned for its strength, this might seem a bit counter-intuitive, but braided line isn’t very abrasion-resistant. In fact, it’s actually very easy to cut with scissors or even the sharp edge of a rock.

If you’re fishing for toothy predators or around rocks or barnacles, you might consider adding a fluorocarbon leader. While it won’t be as foolproof as a wire leader, it is less likely to be sliced through than braid and also is much less visible than wire.

A Leader is a Handy Breaking Point

While braid isn’t that abrasion-resistant, it is exceptionally strong, especially if it is pulled straight back. This makes it very difficult to break off if you lure happens to snag on an obstacle. In fact, trying to break it off can damage your equipment or even hurt you if you aren’t careful as the braid will tend to dig into whatever is pulling it, be that the spool, or your hand.

The point where the leader and braid attach is a weak spot. As we’ll see in the drawbacks section, that isn’t always a good thing, but in this case we can use it to our advantage. If you happen to get snagged, it is substantially easier to break off if you’re using some sort of leader than if you were fishing with straight braid.

A Leader Reduces Braid’s Stretch

While a major selling point for braided line is how it has very little stretch, that’s not always a good thing. If you are using lures with treble hooks such as crankbaits or top water poppers, you really want a little bit of stretch in your hook set or else you run the risk of ripping the thin hooks out of the fish’s mouth.

Sometimes, adding a leader allows you to get certain benefits of braid (such as how it can be used season after season) with certain presentations that are really better off with monofilament.

The Drawbacks of Using a Leader with Braided Line

As we’ve seen, there are plenty of good reasons to use a leader in the right situations, but it’s important to remember that like everything else, it has its time and place.  There are several drawbacks that you need to be aware of. Specifically, it is one more thing to do, one more thing to fail, it can reduce your casting distance, it nullifies some of braids advantages, and it is often an unnecessary placebo.

It’s One More Thing to Do

I’m not trying to come across as lazy here but I will point out that fishing is a major multi-tasking event in the first place, especially if the wind is blowing or you have kids in the boat. I often bring my children out with me so I favor simplicity whenever possible. Using a leader is one more knot to tie which is not always the easiest thing to do with a full boat.

I am a huge believer in efficiency, especially when I have kids on the boat, so I usually prefer to just use a straight line without a leader. The more complicated your rig, the more frustrating fishing can be come in situations where you can’t devote 100% concentration to the task at hand.

It’s One More Thing to Fail

As mentioned earlier, this can be a double-edged sword. The connection point of your leader is going to be the weak spot in your rig. Sometimes you want this, such as when you’re stuck in the rocks. Other times, this is terrifying (such as when you have a huge fish on the line).

This also goes hand in hand with “it’s one more thing to do” discussed above. Any time that you add another knot, you have another knot that you need to keep an eye on and check as it can weaken over time.

Casting Distance Can Be Reduced

Regardless of the type of knot you choose to connect your leader to your main line, it’s going to create a little bump that is going to rub against your line guides while casting. If you’re using larger diameter lines, this bump can be substantial and can reduce your casting distance.

This probably won’t be a deal breaker or even that noticeable, but it is something to be aware of. When you’re power fishing you’re trying to cover as much water as possible over the course of the day and a foot off of each cast adds up over time.

Using a Leader Nullifies Braided Line’s Advantages

Two of braided line’s main strengths are that it can saw through vegetation with ease, and that it has virtually no stretch. Adding a leader will nullify both of these advantages.

Braid Cuts Through Vegetation – Leaders Don’t

A major advantage of braid is that it is sharp and will cut through aquatic vegetation easily. This will often enable you to work a lure through some gunk without fouling it, which means that fish will have a better chance of being deceived by the lure and biting.

This also makes braid great for shallow water trolling for species such as chain pickerel as you can often cut weeds off the line with a quick snap of the rod, rather than needing to reel the entire set up in and start over.

If you add a leader, you forgo this advantage and might find yourself picking more weeds off of your lure and fishing line. At the very least, this will be a time waster, but it’s also likely you’re missing fish because of it.

Braid Has Very Little Stretch – Leaders Do

The second major advantage of braid is that it has virtually no stretch. This is very important in situations where you require a rock solid hook set, or if you need to turn a fish immediately away from cover. Depending on the type of leader you use, significant stretch could be imparted which would make your hook set weaker and a break off more likely.

It’s Not Always Necessary

I suppose the main drawback to using a leader with braided fishing line is it simply isn’t necessary much of the time. If you’re fishing in stained water, it’s unlikely that a leader is going to make much difference to the line’s visibility, and if you’re fishing in open water, or with lures like spinnerbaits that are rarely broken off, there isn’t much use for a more abrasion-resistant line.

If you’re going to do something while fishing there ought to be a useful purpose. The sport is expensive enough as is and if you add on extras that aren’t totally necessary the costs are only going to increase.

Common Questions About Fishing Line Leaders

Now that we’ve discussed the pros and cons of using a leader, let’s dive into some of the more common questions associated with them.

What Type of Leader Should I Use?

You have three basic options when considering a leader for your braided fishing line: monofilament, fluorocarbon, and wire. Each has their advantages and drawbacks. The chart below will help you decide:

Use a Monofilament Leader If…

Use a Fluorocarbon Leader If…

Use a Wire Leader If…

You want your line to float.  A monofilament leader is best if you are
using top water lures.

You want your line to sink.  A fluorocarbon leader would be better for

You’re targeting toothy predators like northern pike.

You want your line to stretch.  A monofilament leader is a better option
for lures with thin treble hooks that can easily pull out from the fish.

You don’t want your line to stretch much.  A fluorocarbon leader would be a better
choice if you wanted a solid hook set with little stretch.

The lure or bait you’re using is likely to be taken whole.  Pike are unlikely to bite a
spinnerbait off, but very likely to bite off a crankbait.

You are in open water, away from obstructions. 

You are fishing near obstructions and want a line that
is abrasion resistant.

Your presentation is fast enough or the water murky
enough that the fish won’t notice the leader.

What Size Line Should I Use for My Leader?

An important consideration is the size (in pound test) of the leader material that you will use. In general, there are a few things to keep in mind when making this decision:

  • What type of fish are you targeting? If you’re trying to catch a fish with sharp teeth like a northern pike or musky, you’re going to want a heavier leader like 20 to 30 lb test that is less likely to be cut.
  • What type of presentation are you using? If you’re using a finesse presentation such as a drop shot, using too heavy of a leader could kill your lure’s action and you might want to scale down to a 6-12 lb test leader. On the other hand, if you intend to use a monster hook set like you’d need with a plastic worm, you’re going to want a stronger leader.
  • What size diameter is your main line? It can make life easier by using lines of similar diameters as the Double Uni Knot is very easy to tie and works especially well with lines of the same size. Most manufacturers will share their lines diameter right on the box so pick up a few and see which ones match up well.

How Do I Tie On a Leader?

If you decide to use a leader with your braided line, your next question is going to be how to go about tying one. I prefer the Double Uni Knot, especially when tying two lines of roughly the same diameter. Basically, you’re tying two Uni Knots against each other.

To tie it, follow these steps (bear in mind that steps 1-3 should be done one at a time for each knot, I just did them simultaneously for illustrative purposes):

  1. Lay your leader and main line down parallel to each other, and then take the tag end of each and form a loop over both lines (Figure 1).
  2. Spiral the tag end through the loop you created 3-4 times (Figure 2).
  3. Pull the tag end to draw the single Uni Knots tight (Figure 3).
  4. Pull each main line (at the same time) to pull the two Uni Knots together (Figure 4).
The double uni knot is a great way to attach a leader to braided fishing line.  It's also handy for attaching monofilament backing to that same line and saving some money!
The Double Uni Knot is a great way to attach braid to a leader.

How Long Should My Leader Be?

This is situational but I prefer to keep my leaders short (within about 2′ to 4′) simply because I find that the longer a leader is, the harder it gets to use. Really, you want your leader to be as long as it needs to be and not an inch more.

If you’re using the type of wire leader that comes with a swivel, you’ll usually want it to be longer than the lure it is attached to, because if it is shorter, you run the risk of the lure’s hooks becoming caught by the swivel itself.

If you’re using a monofilament leader, the longer it is, the more stretch you’ll have. Sometimes it makes sense to have a longer one if you are concerned about pulling the lure from the fish’s mouth. Other times, you might find this counterproductive.

How Long of a Fluorocarbon Leader to Braid?

You’re typically going to want at least 12″ of fluorocarbon leader to braid, though more can be used if necessary. Chances are if you have a fluorocarbon leader on, you’re using it because you want some abrasion resistance. To determine how long it should be, you need to ask yourself how far up the line you expect these abrasions to happen. If you’re only worried about fish teeth, the leader can be much shorter than if you’re planning on dragging your lure through a rocky shoal.

Just remember that if your leader is too long, you’re going to have to cast the knot through your line guides, which can reduce casting distance.

What Type of Leader Should I Buy?

There are several purpose-built leaders on the market, but it may not be necessary to splurge for one depending on your application. If you’re just looking to cut down on braid’s visibility, for example, you can simply use a leader of fluorocarbon from a spool you already own. I tend to use Seaguar fluorcarbon fishing line. While they make some some dedicated leaders, their Abrazx line works fine for bass fishing. I’ve used their types of line for leaders as well when fishing in clear water. Abrazx is just designed to be more abrasion resistant than some of their other offerings, so it makes sense as a leader as it will give you a bit more strength around hazards.

If you really wanted a dedicated fluorocarbon leader, Seaguar also makes dedicated leaders such as the Seaguar Blue Label 100-Yards Fluorocarbon Leader 20-Pounds which would work well for most applications discussed on this site.

If you’re primarily fishing for pickerel, northern pike, or muskie, consider a wire leader made of titanium, like the Terminator Braided Titanium Leader (50-Pounds, 12-Inch). I’ve found that if you go much below 12-inch you can run into trouble with the leader fouling on hooks (especially on jerkbaits).

Conclusions

Determining when and where to use a leader with braided fishing line isn’t always the most straightforward process, but I hope this article helped. Generally speaking, use a leader when it makes sense and will help you minimize some trait of braid that is undesirable for your specific need, but don’t feel as though you need to use one just for the sake of it.

As always, if you found this article helpful, please consider sharing it so it can help others. You can also feel free to leave a message below or to send me an email with any additional questions. You can also pick up a copy of my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide, which includes other helpful advice.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Are Youth Fishing Rod & Reel Combos Worth It?

While I can’t have a website about helping parents teach their kids to fish without reviewing a youth fishing rod combo, I’m a little torn. Normally when I review a product, I actually own it. If I don’t own it, I am seriously considering buying it. In that case, I’ll share my research in case you’re considering buying it too. I value authenticity and am uncomfortable recommending that people part with their money for a product I haven’t personally used.

In that spirit, I want to be completely up front with you: I don’t own the kids fishing rod and reel combos discussed below. I have absolutely no intention to ever buy them. This isn’t because they’re bad, but because I’ve never had a need to buy them. I already had a full compliment of fishing rods I could share with my kids when they were born, so I didn’t need a combo.

The reason that I’m writing this is because there are obviously a ton of parents out there who are looking at these products. I imagine many of you are scratching your head trying to figure out which one is best. Frankly, if you’re looking into one of these combos, there’s a good chance you don’t fish that often and might need some advice.

These combos can be worth it if you were brand new to fishing, as they are almost like a “starter pack”. With that said, many of these combos include a lot of stuff you don’t need, and lack premium components.

So there we are. If you’re interested in my take on these fishing combos, carry on. At the very least, I hope you can trust I’m being real with you.

Why I Didn’t Buy My Kids a Fishing Combo

As I mentioned above, the main reason I didn’t purchase one of these “all in one” fishing rod, reel, and tackle combos for my kids was because I had no need for the tackle. I only needed a rod and reel.

Well, they sell plenty of kids and youth fishing combos that just have the rod and reel and don’t include any tackle. I took a quick look and didn’t buy any of those either for a couple of reasons:

Most Kids Combos Come with Spincast Reels

I found that most of these combos come with spincast reels, which I don’t think are as necessary for kids as other people claim, and which are annoying to me because they almost all come in right-hand retrieve, meaning that my son would learn a retrieve that is opposite of all the other equipment I might eventually hand down to him.

Many people consider spincast reels to be better for children in part because they are “easier” to cast. I suppose they are, technically, but spinning reels aren’t exactly rocket science in comparison.

To cast a spincast reel, your kid needs to (1) push down a little button until they want their lure to cast, at which point they (2) release the button.

To cast a spinning reel, your kid needs to hold onto the (1) line with their finger, (2) flip the bail, and then (3) release the line when they want their lure to cast.

Broken down to its simplest form, we’re talking three steps instead of two. This hardly struck me as worth it when you consider all the drawbacks of spincast gear, so my wife and I spent some extra time with my son and had him casting spinning tackle like a champ at two.

With all that said, some youth fishing combos come with spinning reels. I’d start with those!

Many Combos Come with Equipment You Don’t Need or Want

Just poking around online I’ve noticed that a lot of these combos come with ridiculous looking lures and what appear to be severely over-sized terminal tackle. A few have wide gap hooks that look too large for any of the soft plastics they’re included with, much less the panfish you should be targeting with your kids.

More importantly others have crankbaits and jerkbaits which are equipped with treble hooks and packaged in a unit intended for toddlers. This is… an odd choice … and flies in the face of everything I say about hooks in my post about safety tips for fishing with kids.

Some of these combos also come with weird things like “strike indicators” which are little bells that attach to the line. I suppose if you’re planning on throwing these out and paying no attention whatsoever while you go play catch, these might make sense, but it seems like you’re paying for something you won’t use.

I get the appeal for why people would look at much of this stuff and say, “wow, it has everything I need to get started!” But when a more experienced and discerning eye looks at some of these, the extra equipment doesn’t seem all that useful.

Why Many People DO Buy These Combos

Its clear that these youth fishing combos sell. For one thing, they tend to be bright colors and attract kids from across the store. Secondly, families who are just starting to fish are likely looking for an “all in one” rod and reel combo for their kids because they don’t want (or don’t know how) to put together their own gear like i described in this post.

I understand there is something appealing about walking into a store, buying one item, and having everything that you need. If you are brand new to fishing, I can see why you would go this route. Just remember that you will eventually have to purchase replacement gear piece meal. You wouldn’t buy an entirely new combo just to get some extra hooks.

this kids fishing rod combo is probably a good way to get them excited about the sport, but unlikely to last very long.
If your child sees this, they are going to want you to buy it. That’s good because it helps get them interested in the sport, but pick it up and ask yourself how long it should last before they outgrow it.

What You Should Look For In a Fishing Combo for Kids

If your heart is set on buying one of these combos, look for the following things:

  • I would recommend that you purchase a combo with a spinning reel for the reasons discussed above;
  • I would steer clear of the “telescopic” rod combos and get an actual fishing rod. Who doesn’t have room for a 5′ pole?
  • If I bought this for a small child, I would avoid any combo that includes lures with treble hooks. At the very least take, these lures away immediately.
  • Look at the size of the hooks and ask yourself if a panfish can fit it in its mouth. Remember that your main target with small kids will be small fish. If you buy a combo with large hooks, you won’t catch many sunfish.
  • Look at the lures it includes. Do you recognize them? Walk through the aisles a bit and see if they’re sold separately. Sometimes these combos are filled with stuff that isn’t very popular on its own. That’s not a great sign.

If I HAD to Buy One of These Combos, I’d Choose…

If I was going to purchase one of these, I’d buy one of the Shakespeare combos. I own several rods and reels that their company produces, and they work well for children. In fact, I think Shakespeare makes the best overall rod for kids, as I discussed in this post.

I’d specifically recommend the Shakespeare “Catch More Fish” combos. These are available with spinning rods, which I prefer. Further, they come with reasonable and useful tackle that should work very well.

These combos come in different “trims” from “youth” to species-specific offerings, and each has different (but appropriate) tackle. For example, the “panfish” combo is specifically marketed to young anglers and actually has what they need.

Why Shakespeare’s Panfish Youth Fishing Combos Is Worth It:

  • It includes some beetle-spin spinnerbait-type lures. These will catch panfish, which is what you’re looking for. They are also great for teaching casting as they’re meant to be cast and retrieved repeatedly;
  • The kit comes with grubs. You can rig these on the beetle-spins, or put them right on a hook. As a plus, they come in good, effective colors (white, purple, and chartreuse);
  • It includes panfish hooks that are small enough for a bluegill or sunfish to fit in its mouth. The hooks also have a long shank which makes it easier to unhook the fish safely;
  • They come with a few slip shot sinkers. You could use these rig a drop shot, which is one of the best ones to start with when fishing with kids as I discussed in this post;
  • Though I’m not crazy about fishing with bobbers, they give you a few. They are small enough that they’re appropriate for fishing for panfish.

Shakespeare makes good products for kids. Their panfish combo would be a great first fishing setup for any little angler. You’ll get what you need in one stop, which is handy if you’re in a rush or just getting started.

Other Options

There are several other kits, all of which include wisely-chosen gear that would actually work. It is obvious from researching these that actual fishermen were consulted when putting these together, and all of the combos only include items that would actually work and you could actually use.

You do want to be careful, however, as some of their combos (such as those for bass) include treble hooks. Just be mindful of this if you’re buying this for a child who isn’t quite old enough to handle these lures quite yet.

To Conclude

There is value to purchasing an all-in-one fishing combo for your kids, but you want to make sure that you get one produced by fishermen, for fishermen. There are a lot of products out there on the market that include very questionable choices for tackle. Some of the items included are outright dangerous for young children.

I’d still recommend that you go ahead and just purchase your fishing gear piece meal. With all the tangles and snags that kids or beginners face, you’d be better off buying hooks and sinkers in bulk.

If that’s not in the cards right now or you’re in a hurry and just need something, I do stand behind Shakespeare products in general and recommend that you try out their “Catch More Fish” series of combos.

I hope this article was helpful and potentially saved you a bit of money or at least gave you a better idea of where you should spend it. If you found it useful, please consider sharing it so it can help others. You can also post a comment below or send me an email at johnpaxton@fishingfather.com to let me know what you think and if I need to check out any other combos out there! You can also consider purchasing my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide, which is filled with more great tips for parents.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Does Fishing Have to Be an Expensive Hobby?

My wife rolls her eyes when she sees me head off to the tackle shop to purchase more gear. She’ll remind me how fishing doesn’t have to be that expensive of a hobby, as her uncle used to catch fish just fine with a simple rod, reel, hook and line. She doesn’t understand why I think expensive fishing rods are worth it considering that any old pole will catch a fish.

She just doesn’t get me.

My wife is right though – Fishing is only an expensive hobby if you make it one. You can catch fish all day long off of $10 worth of equipment you pick up at at tag sale. On the other hand, you could easily spend thousands of dollars each year traveling to exotic locations in search of giant fish.

As with all things in life, there’s a balance. In this article, I hope to give beginners some insight into how to strike that balance. I hope to help you avoid the “bait monkey,” and make some informed decisions about how to spend your hard-earned cash on one of life’s great necessities: fishing lures.

What is “The Bait Monkey,” Anyway?

The “Bait Monkey” is a term used to describe how fisherman will run out to the tackle shop to empty their wallets each paycheck. It’s almost like there’s some enchantress on our shoulders, singing a magical tune like the Sirens who tempted Odysseus towards the rocks. Fishing wouldn’t be half as expensive of a pastime if it wasn’t for this critter.

Thanks to the Bait Monkey, we just can’t help but spend more and more money on the latest lure! Our tackle boxes become lined with a hundred different crankbaits even though we only ever throw three. We also outfit our bass boats with the latest electronics even though we know we’re just going to cast towards the same familiar shoreline!

We are enchanted by this Bait Monkey and beyond all salvation, but it’s not too late for you!

I would implore you to do your best to keep fishing economical. Do buy quality items that will last. Don’t let the Bait Monkey guide you towards the rocks of mortgage foreclosure, divorce, or (gasp!) defaulting on your boat loan.

The bait monkey can quickly turn fishing into an expensive hobby if you aren't careful.
The bait monkey is a powerful adversary.

What Fishing Equipment Do You REALLY Need?

What, pray tell, are these quality items you so desperately need, and how will you recognize them? Well, when it comes to essential fishing equipment, it’s actually pretty simple:

  1. A fishing rod. Note, it’s not worth getting an expensive rod to start. The St. Croix Triumph makes a good entry level rod. You can read my review about it here.
  2. You need a reel to match the rod. If you start with a spinning rod, the reel will be much less expensive. I recommend either a Pflueger Trion or Pflueger President if you want to splurge slightly. Get it in size 30 or 35. Make sure you only put a spinning reel on a spinning rod. Read my article about why you should never mismatch here.
  3. Fishing line of some sort. There’s nothing wrong with the old standard, Berkley Trilene XL. If you’re just starting out at this great sport, you’re going to go through a lot of fishing line, and this stuff isn’t expensive.
  4. You need a hook for that line. No need to go crazy here. Just get something light, like an Eagle Claw long shank offset hook. They’re inexpensive, good to learn on, and work well for a drop shot.
  5. Bait for the hook. You can most likely find some nightcrawlers at a nearby gas station. If you don’t want to use live bait, I’m a big fan of Gulp! products. Some days they really do live up to their boast that they outfish live bait.
  6. You probably need a fishing license, but check your local regulations. Some states don’t require seniors or younger children to have one.

That’s about as complicated as it needs to be, folks. If you own, beg, borrow, or steal these six items, you can be a fisherman. I wouldn’t recommend the stealing part though. Karma is a dangerous mistress and you’re about to play with hooks.

How Much Should You Spend On Fishing Gear?

I’m not going to sit here and pretend that I know your financial situation. Only you can make the decision as to how much you want to spend on your fishing rod, reel, line, or tackle. Some people need to find tag sale steals to complete a fishing setup for $10. I’ve known others to spend over $1,000 for just one rod and reel combo.

It’s impossible for me to tell you how much to spend on your setup. That is far too situation-specific. I will try to explain how you should apportion that money. In other words, I’ll help you understand which of the five items above (rod, reel, line, hook/tackle, bait, and license) you should spend the most money on, and which ones you can skimp on and still get by.

The Fishing License

Unless you’re very young, or in some cases a senior citizen, there’s no getting around the need for a fishing license.

Exact age range will vary state by state, but for the most part, younger children are exempt.

Some states will allow senior citizens to obtain a fishing license for free, but the expectation is often that they actually carry one. In other words, you need to go through the hassle of getting one, but won’t pay for it. Government, eh?.

Most states offer fishing licenses that last the entire season or shorter periods (3,5, and 7 days are common). States vary in what types of fish they’ll let you target, or even what waters you can fish in. Some states require you to pay extra for certain trout rivers or to fish in the ocean, for example.

Some states have “Free Fish Days” where they’ll let anyone try the sport without a license. This is a one-time deal and might not fit well with your plans. It’s hard to imagine any other equipment (rod, reel, etc.) that would make sense to buy if you were only going to use it once.

There’s an age old saying that “It’s called fishing, not catching,” and this saying is there for a reason. Even if your state has one of those “Free Fish Days,” I wouldn’t plan on catching something the first time out, so you should probably invest in a license so you can give this a real try.

Fishing Line

I’m a bit torn on what to recommend here. One part of me says, “If they’re new, they’re just going to get a ton of tangles or birds nests and go through a lot of line,” but the other part of me says, “They’ll have less line memory, tangles, and potentially birds nests if they get better line in the first place.” My goal is to help you make fishing less expensive of a hobby, but this is one of those darned if you do, darned if you don’t moments.

Best Fishing Line for Beginners: Monofilament

As I mentioned before, I think you should find a happy medium by sticking with Berkley Trilene XL while you’re getting started. It is a monofilament line that has been around for ages and is battle-proven. It is fairly easy to work with and reasonably priced, so you’re less likely to have trouble with it, but even if you do, you won’t waste much money if you need to respool.

Monofilament is also great because it’s safer to use around kids since it is less likely to cut them than braid, so if you’re reading this trying to learn how to take the whole family out, you can’t go wrong with Berkley Trilene XL. If you’re concerned with fishing on lighter line, read this article for some tips on helping prevent fish from breaking it.

Another Option: Braid

If you did want to use braid, I have Power Pro Spectra Fiber Braided Fishing Line spooled on most of my reels. I’ve been using it for a few years but I do have to admit that when I first started using it, I had a lot of trouble with it because I wasn’t reeling it onto the reel appropriately. It was an expensive learning curve!

(The trick to save you this same hassle and expense is simply to put on a backing of monofilament before you tie on the braid. Just reel on some monofilament first, then connect it to the braid and continue going. You won’t have an issue of your line slipping and will save yourself some cash).

Fishing Rod

If you want to prevent fishing from becoming too expensive, you need to choose your fishing rod carefully. While expensive rods are certainly worth it over time, you really don’t need anything fancy if you’re just getting started. Instead, you could use whatever you can come up with in a tag sale, or whatever you can find on sale at Amazon or elsewhere.

I do feel you’d be better off starting with a spinning rod. There are some who will tell you that only a baitcaster can cast large lures but this is only partially true. While you would probably want a baitcaster if you were going to toss huge muskie lures all day long, just about any bass lure will do perfectly well on a spinning rod and reel.

Spinning rods tends to be less expensive than baitcasting equipment, for what it’s worth. You also need to consider that entry-level baitcasting reels can be very hard to use. A $40-$60 spinning reel will serve you perfectly well, but it can be hard to find a baitcaster in that range that would work well for beginners without giving you fits.

What Spinning Rod Should I Buy?

I’d recommend that you look for a medium-heavy power, fast action spinning rod about 6’6″ to 7′ long for your first rod. I’d purchase one that has a reputation for durability as you’ll be making many mistakes as you start. A Shakespeare Ugly Stik Elite would make a good choice for a beginner.

As you’ll see in that link, the Ugly Stik Elite comes in many sizes and powers. If this was your first and only rod, I’d recommend a medium-heavy power and fast action as that will work well for spinnerbaits and plastic worms. Although not the best choice, it would be passable for crankbaits and topwater lures (including hollow-bodied frogs) as well. This makes this type of spinning rod an all-around good choice.

If this does become a hobby that you could see yourself having for life, it would eventually make sense to upgrade to a better rod, but you don’t need to do this immediately. When you’re ready, consider checking out my post where I discuss the differences between the St. Croix variants I own. They’re great rods for every price point and have never let me down. As stated above, the St. Croix Triumph is also an excellent rod for beginners.

Fishing Reel

If I only had $100 to spend on my entire fishing rod/reel combo, I would invest more money in the fishing reel than the rod (Note: this advice only pertains to a parent’s fishing rod. If I was buying for a child, I’d reverse this advice, as reels don’t hold up well to children).

A rod is a rod is a rod, frankly. A more expensive rod is only really worth it if you’re using techniques that require great sensitivity and precision. For most techniques (especially those a beginner will use), a regular rod will do just fine to hook a large fish. A reel, on the other hand, is the item that’s going to help you land that trophy.

A quality reel will work better, retrieve smoother, and come with a better drag system that will help you land larger fish. Slightly more expensive reels also tend to weigh less, which makes a big deal if you’re using it for several hours.

Trying to fish with a low-end reel isn’t much fun. They don’t have as many ball bearings, are more prone to breaking, and often have unsophisticated drag systems that can cost you fish if a big one makes a sudden run.

I can fish with a “lower end” rod (in fact, one of my favorites only cost about $50) all day, but I hate fishing with entry-level fishing reels. I don’t care if it makes my hobby a little more expensive, it isn’t as much fun fishing with a cheap reel.

This doesn’t mean that you need to break the bank, as quality companies like Plfueger offer reels in reasonable price ranges that are smooth, powerful, and will last for years with a modicum of care. The workhorse in my arsenal is the Pflueger President. It equips about 80% of my lineup.

Inexpensive Fishing Lures and Techniques to Try

If you’re not careful, you can quickly run out of money buying fishing lures. You would think that a $5 fishing lure wouldn’t be the most expensive aspect of this sport, but they add up quickly. I remember one year I headed to the local sporting goods store for their Black Friday sale. By the time I was done, the clerk asked with some trepidation: “Sir, are you ready for your total?” Never a good sign!

If you’re just getting started, or want to keep fishing inexpensive in general, I’d recommend a minimalist approach. You don’t need to purchase a dozen different types of lures, and if you did, you’d probably just find that you bounced between them too frequently to give any a chance to work, anyway.

You could minimize things to such an extent that you’re only using three types of lures and find success:

Spinnerbaits

A spinnerbait is a very simple lure with a bent wire frame that is a great lure for beginners because it is so simple to use: cast it out, and then reel it in. Spinnerbaits come in a variety of colors and sizes and price. If you’re just starting, don’t feel as though you need to buy an expensive model as an entry level spinnerbait will catch fish just as well. A Strike King Bleeding Spinnerbait is a good choice. They catch many fish, they are fairly durable, and they don’t break the bank.

An argument could be made to purchase a Terminator titanium spinnerbait (pictured below). While they are a bit more expensive, they’re made of titanium that springs back after being bit. An issue with steel spinnerbaits is that larger fish tend to demolish them and bend the frames terribly. Sometimes they can be bent back, other times they can’t. You don’t have that issue with the Terminators titanium spinnerbaits. They will, however, eventually snap from becoming brittle. It’s hard to tell when this is going to happen.

Spinnerbaits are a great lure.  They're durable, inexpensive, and catch big fish!
SpSpinnerbaits are great lures for beginners. This is a relatively expensive model, but you can purchase entry-level lures that will work very well.

Drop Shot Hooks and Sinkers

The drop shot is hands-down my favorite rig for taking kids or beginners out and putting them on a fish. If you’re just starting and want to build your confidence, learn how to rig one of these up and fish them.

I wrote a fairly detailed post talking about this technique (as well as other basic skills you need to take kids fishing) in my post here. I’d suggest reading through it to help you learn how to use this rig.

The only issue with this technique is that the hooks and especially the sinkers can get expensive as you’ll lose many of them. If you find them on sale, you’ll want to buy them in bulk as you’ll go through many. I can’t link you to some in good conscious because you’re going to lose so many of them, you really just want to grab whatever is on sale at the moment. The brand really doesn’t matter.

One thing you will need to consider is if you want to purchase lead sinkers or tungsten ones. Tungesten are more expensive, but I think the way the world is going, lead may not be available forever. There are already some states, like Massachusetts, that ban lead fishing sinkers.

Drop shots are great for fishing.  While they're inexpensive at first, you'll lose so many weights that the cost can add up if you don't buy them in bulk.
The Drop Shot is a great rig for beginners that can be very inexpensive to use (until you start losing sinkers!)

Plastic Worms

A plastic worm is a great compliment to spinnerbaits and drop shots. You can rig these in several different ways and make them weedless if necessary by burying the hook into the worm via a method called a “Texas Rig,” or just rig them “Wacky Style” and let them sink enticingly in open pockets between weeds.

You can buy many types of worms for wacky rigging, but my favorite is the ubiquitous Yamamoto Senko. They’re pricier than some competitors, but they’re supple and just work amazingly well. I prefer them in the 4″ and 5″ sizes, and tend to buy them in various shades of green, brown, and black. You can catch some really large bass on these and they’re very easy lures for kids to use – just toss them out and let them sink. Then raise them up with a few twitches and reel in slowly before letting them sink again – most hits will come as the worm falls.

One concern with plastic worms is that they can get very expensive if you’re wacky rigging them as they tend to pull out easily from the hook. A solution is to invest in little plastic o-rings that push onto the worm as shown in the photo below. This small investment will let you get substantially more use out of the worms and will save you a lot of money in the long run. The product I linked in this paragraph comes with a handy tool for putting the o-rings on your worms as well. I carry one and recommend it.

The little o-ring on this wacky worm will let you reuse it several times.  If you don't sport one of these, fishing with Senkos becomes expensive quickly as these worms are pricey!
Wacky Rigged plastic worms are easy to use and can be relatively inexpensive, especially if you invest in some o-rings as shown in this photo.

Bait

Remember that uncle I was telling you about who never bought anything expensive to support his fishing hobby? He used bait. Bait can be free. Assuming you have a garden shovel and live anywhere near wet dirt, you can find worms and night crawlers to fish with. You can also make use of your leftovers from lunch, assuming your area doesn’t consider that littering.

You need not spend any money whatsoever on bait, and doing so would be a luxury. Of course, $2 for a box of 12 night crawlers will spare you the trouble of searching for worms on your hands and knees. I think it’s an easier pill to swallow than a $6 coffee you could make in five minutes for thirty cents.

You can also buy worms in bulk. I use Windsor Wholesale Bait and have been very happy with their service. Just make sure you have enough room in your fridge!

If you do buy worms in bulk, you’ll need to come up with some sort of carrying case for them. I like the Zebco Lil Wormcooler as it is insulated and has a handy loop that you can attach to your belt with a clip (which isn’t included). This means it’s one less thing you need to carry in your hands while you go beat the bank.

Conclusion: Fishing isn’t an Expensive Hobby… Perhaps.

Truth be told, I’ve been bitten by the bait monkey pretty badly in my life and as a result have way more tackle than I could ever use. I’ve turned fishing into a very expensive sport–much more expensive than it ever needed to be.

Fishing can be very inexpensive and you should be able to get everything you need to have a good time out there for less than $100. In fact, if I was starting, that’s exactly what I’d aim to do – get into the sport for less than $100 and then see how I like it.

So, to summarize, if you want to keep fishing inexpensive, remember that expensive rods, reels, and other gear aren’t always worth it. Instead, find an inexpensive spinning rod, match it with a decent spinning reel, put on some decent line and buy bare-bones tackle to start (or dig up your own worms).

This is what you need to go fishing. Anything else is gravy. If you keep it simple and stick to what you actually need, fishing can be one of the least expensive hobbies out there.

Hopefully this article kept a few dollars in your pocket. If you think it could help others, please consider sharing it. You also might consider purchasing my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide, for other advice on items you do (and don’t) need to go fishing successfully.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Can You Use a Spinning Reel on a Casting Rod?

One of the fun things about writing this blog is that I get to search the internet looking for different questions about fishing that beginners are asking so I can write an article that answers the question and helps them. Today, we’ll discuss two of the ultimate beginner questions: what is the difference between a spinning reel and casting reel, and can you use a spinning reel on a casting rod? While we’re at it, we’ll discuss if a fishing rod can break if it’s bent the wrong way, because if you’re going to mismatch equipment, this is a real concern.

Yes, you can put a spinning reel on a casting rod in a pinch and you might even find the combination serviceable for light fishing, but there are several drawbacks. (1). You’ll have reduced casting distance. (2) There is the potential for damaging the rod. (3) Your rod will have reduced power and action for the blank. (4). Everyone who doesn’t have a life will be laughing at you, or at the very least rolling their eyes.

Let’s talk a little bit about these in detail so you can make an informed decision before you head off to the lake with one of these mismatched combos.

Spinning vs. Casting Reel – What’s the Difference?

It’s beyond the scope of this article to discuss all the differences between spinning reels and casting reels but you do need to at least know what they look like and how they generally work to understand why you shouldn’t swap the two.

A spinning reel is designed for use with a spinning rod. These reels are meant to be mounted on and fished from the underside of a rod, so it is facing towards the ground while you’re reeling.

Line is kept on the spinning reel by way of its bail. In the photo below, look at how the line leaves the reel and bends in a 90-degree angle before continuing on towards the rod tip. The point where it bends is called the line roller, and the golden semi-circle extending away from that is called the bail.

To release line, you would “flip” the bail by moving it up towards the top of the spinning reel. This releases line from the spool (the part the main bulk of line is wrapped around), as it is no longer kept under tension by the bail and line roller. Note, the spool does not spin while line is being released. It only spins while line is being reeled back on.

A casting reel is designed for use with a casting rod. These reels are meant to be mounted on and fished from the top of a rod, so it is facing towards the sky while you’re reeling.

Line is held onto the spool by a lock which is disengaged by pressing the spool release button at the back of the reel. This allows the spool to spin freely as line is stripped from it. To reengage the spool lock, one turns the reel handle.

The different design of these two reels necessitates use on different types of rods. Line from a spinning reel releases much further away from the rod than it would from a casting reel, which sits much closer. Thus, the line guides on the rod are aligned differently.

Let’s examine that a bit further as I discuss the first reason you don’t want to use a spinning reel on a casting rod:

1. While You Can Use A Spinning On A Casting Rod, It Won’t Cast As Far

If you’re seriously considering trying a spinning reel on a casting rod, I doubt you’ll care about the three other concerns I’ll raise in this article, but you should care about this one. Everyone benefits from longer casts.

If you look at a spinning rod you’ll notice that the first two line guides closest to the handle tend to be much further out than the line guides further up the blank. This is to accommodate the fact that line leaves the spinning reel farther away from the rod than it would on a casting reel.

By putting a spinning reel on the wrong type of rod, you’re risking reduced casting distance because the line can no longer flow as naturally or evenly. Instead, it has to immediately bend towards line guides that sit much closer towards the blank on a casting rod.

This immediate deflection is going to cause friction which is going to reduce casting distance. Does this really matter if you’re just going for panfish off a dock, or even just fishing for fun? Probably not.

On the other hand, if you’re fishing spinnerbaits or other lures where you want to cover a lot of water, the cumulative effect of multiple casts at a reduced distance could arguably translate to many less fish caught over the course of a day.

Just picture this: If you lose 3-5 yards on your cast because you’re using improper equipment, that’s 9-15 feet of water that potentially holds fish that won’t see your lure on that cast. If you make 40 casts an hour (which is a pretty conservative figure) and fish for three hours, you’re looking at 1,080 – 1,800 feet of untouched water. A lot of fish could hide there!

2. Using the Wrong Reel Has Potential for Rod Damage

I will admit that I’ve never put a spinning reel on a casting rod in the first place, much less broken a rod by doing so, but there seems to be a heavy debate out there on if putting a spinning reel on a casting rod (or putting a casting reel on a spinning rod) endangers the rod and makes it more likely to break when bent.

How Fishing Rods are Built

The reason for this concern is because fishing rod blanks (the main “rod” part) all have a spine that is formed during their construction.

Fishing rod blanks are hollow and are built by rolling a sheet of graphite or fiberglass over a metal mandrel. Doing so creates a section of overlap called the “spine.” Because of this overlap, this section is thicker than the rest and is considered the “backbone.”

The side directly opposite the spine is thinner and will bend easier, so the objective when building a rod is to align the line guides or “eyes” are opposite to the spine of the rod blank. This way, when a fish strikes, the rod will bend towards the softer side and not against the spine.

Will A Fishing Rod Break If Bent the Wrong Way?

Some people argue that by putting a spinning reel on a casting rod, or a casting reel on a spinning rod, you end up forcing the rod to bend in the opposite direction than it was intended, against its spine, and this can risk catastrophic failure.

The jury is definitely out on that one. There are a lot of people repeating it, but then several others who don’t seem to think it’s a problem. I’ve seen a few results on popular forums where experienced rod builders have taken both sides of the issue. This is clear as mud.

I tried to figure it out myself by taking one of our less expensive rods and just bending it every which way, and I didn’t notice any difference in how far the rod would bend, or feel as though it was about to break.

I’m not sure I’d try it on one of my nicer St. Croix fishing rods, but on the other hand I’m fairly certain (much more than a hunch really) that if you’re fishing with a high-end fishing rod, you probably are going to have the correct type of reel for it.

On the other hand, if you’re just starting out and found this crazy combo in your granddad’s shed, or pieced it together for a few bucks at a local tag sale, does it really matter if the rod eventually breaks?

3. A Mismatched Rod and Reel Can Alter the Rod’s Power and Action

This one I’d definitely believe. Fishing rods are carefully crafted to ensure that they meet manufacturer standards for power and action.

Power is the rod’s resistance to bending in the first place, while action refers to where along the blank it will bend (a fast action would bend near the tip, a moderate action further down towards the middle).

Altering the rod in any way is likely to change this. If you don’t believe me, have a rod re-tipped after you break it. Compare it against the same rod, undamaged. The shorter one is going to feel different (usually less flexible) than its unbroken sibling.

If you are mismatching your rod and reel type, then you’re using the rod in a way the manufacturer never intended or designed for. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it is something to consider. You might find that the rod performs a bit differently is all.

This could be a deal breaker for someone who demands precision, but I again suppose that if you’re the type of person who is doing this, the rod’s power and action probably aren’t at the top of your concerns!

4. “They’re All Going to Laugh at You” If You Use a Spinning Reel on a Casting Rod

Sometimes you just want to “fake it ’til you make it,” but if you’re using a spinning reel on a casting rod (or vice versa), you aren’t fooling anyone. This isn’t really fair as the reason you’re using this strange combo may simply be it’s all you stumbled into and could afford, but such is life.

There are plenty of people across the world who have the intestinal fortitude to mismatch a spinning reel and casting rod, who brave all the dangers I warned about, and who catch fish regularly. It will work, but you are going to look silly doing it.

Granted, this drawback really shouldn’t matter to you as a grown adult (what do you care what someone else thinks of you?), but it might matter to your kids. Bullying is tough these days and even if experiencing it can teach resilience, we shouldn’t set our children up for it on purpose.

If you see someone out there using their rod this way, cut them a break and don’t be rude. You don’t know what their circumstances are. This might be all that they can afford, or perhaps it’s all they know. You can offer assistance or insight but be kind when you do so and don’t be a jerk about it. The world is full of jerks and us fishermen and women need to stick together.

Conclusions

As discussed, while you certainly “can” use a spinning reel on a casting rod, there are several good reasons why you shouldn’t aim to. It’s one thing to just pick up a couple of odds and ends at a tag sale and throw them together to make things work, but you certainly shouldn’t buy a mismatched rod and reel new.

If you do, there’s a good chance you’ll break your fishing rod because it bends the wrong way, and an even better chance that you won’t get to use it to its full potential. It would be a lot like trying to drive in a nail with the butt of a screwdriver. Yeah, it’s passable if it’s all you have, but certainly not recommended.

If you’re new to fishing and are looking for some tips on what type of gear you should buy, consider checking out my post on the basic skills you need to take your kid fishing. It will set you up with a rod and reel combo suggestion as well as discuss what other gear you should buy.

I also have a detailed post on whether or not expensive fishing rods are really worth it. Reading this might shed some insight that can save you a few dollars to put towards a reel that matches the rod.

Finally, if you’re on a tight budget and need to find a spinning rod to go with your spinning reel, consider reading my post about how to buy used fishing rods with confidence as this is something I do frequently that saves me a lot of money and allows me to get some quality items for a great price.

As always, I hope you found this article helpful. If you did, please consider sharing it so it can help others too.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


Live Bait vs. Artificial Lures: Which One is Best?

There has always been a big debate over what catches more fish: live bait or artificial lures.

The answer depends on what you’re trying to accomplish. Live bait is better when fishing with young children, or when conditions are tough. Artificial lures are better if you’re able to move around to “power fish,” and are required in most fishing tournaments.

I’ve spent many days fishing with both and decided to write this article to help you understand the difference between the two as well as when you should consider using each. Let’s get started.

The Difference Between a Fishing Lure and Bait

A fishing lure is essentially a man-made object that was invented to try and entice a fish to bite. Bait, on the other hand, is something that lives (or lived) and is an actual food substance.

You might think that live bait would always be better than artificial lures, but there are times when this isn’t true.

Types of Bait

You can put just about any type of prey or food substance on the end of your hook that you’re comfortable with and the law allows for, but the most common bait are probably worms, minnows, corn and bread.

Worms

The classic nightcrawler is probably the bait everyone started with (it certainly was for me, and for my kids). For some reason, fish love worms, and are quick to eat them.

Worms make a great bait to bring along with the kids because they’ll attract every fish in the lake. When you’re just trying to catch something, it’s hard to beat them.

While worms do pretty well in storage for a few weeks, they will die if you let them get too warm. I recently wrote an entire article on using dead worms vs. live ones. In it, I reached the conclusion that you’re better off trying to keep them fresh.

One great thing about worms is that you probably have them right in your yard and garden. Kids love digging for them and will have fun gathering their own bait. With that said, they are worth buying at the store if you can’t find big, plump, juicy ones on your own. You can also buy them in bulk from retailers such as Windsor Wholesale Baits, which saves a lot of money.

Minnows

Minnows are live bait fish that you can purchase by the dozen from many tackle shops. They come in a range of species and sizes and make fairly good bait. They aren’t as hardy as worms and tend to be “big fish bait.”

I spent many summers on Lake Champlain fishing with these as a kid. They certainly work when you can find fish, but don’t expect magic. If you’re able to locate a school of bass, your kids can have a day for the ages, but if you can’t, in my opinion it’s not that different than throwing lures.

Some people will tell you to go catch your own minnows. I would urge you to check local regulations before you do this. You should also only use fish from the same waterway you intend to fish. You don’t want to introduce a non-native species by fishing. If it is legal and you want to catch your own, consider using something like a Frabill Minnow Seine.

Some places, like Lake Champlain along the New York and Vermont border, regulate which species of minnows can be used. They insist on proof of purchase to confirm that they were sourced appropriately. Make sure you know the local laws and regulations.

The bottom line is you can get in a world of trouble if you’re not careful using minnows. I am not a lawyer and cannot give you legal advice, so please call your local game warden or ask the owner of your local tackle shop for insight into the laws of the waters you intend to fish.

Corn

I used to have a lot of fun as a kid at a local pond fishing for sunfish with corn. Two or three little kernels seemed to be all I needed to get fish to bite on the right day.

If you don’t have access to nightcrawlers, or simply don’t want to use them, corn can work pretty well as a substitute. Just make sure that you check your local regulations. I’ve heard of certain places considering it littering, or “feeding the animals” which is banned in many waters.

A lovely couple with another fishing website wrote a state by state guide detailing their research on fishing with corn. Just bear in mind that laws change frequently, so you’ll want to double check their work.

Bread

Bread can work very well for bluegill and sunfish. What you do is take some and ball it up so that you can pierce it with a hook. As the water softens the bread, you’re going to need to replace it as it will eventually fall off.

As with corn, you should check your local regulations. There is a chance that this could be considered littering, for one. Secondly, some places don’t want you feeding the ducks bread, so don’t be caught with a loaf.

Chicken Liver

This stuff works great for catfish, bullhead, bowfin, and other exotic species. It is very hard to keep on the hook, but if you manage to it is hard to beat. If you present this in an area where these large fish can find it, they’ll eat it.

Chicken liver’s downside is it smells horrific and makes a terrible mess. I definitely wouldn’t recommend using it from a brand new boat if you’re partial to how the carpet looks and smells. It also attracts flies and other insects quickly and so it isn’t always the most pleasant way to fish.

Leeches and Other Critters

There are a host of other types of bait. Basically, anything that a fish would normally eat can be attached to hook and used to entice a bite. Walleye anglers love leaches, a lot of trophy bluegill hunters swear by crickets, and many large catfish have been caught with cut up bluegill.

You can use just about anything but I would, once again, urge you to check your local regulations just to make sure you’re fully compliant with the law.

When It is Best to Use Live Bait Instead of Artificial Lures

I would recommend using bait of some sort when it is legal and you absolutely need to catch a fish quickly. Thus, it is my number one choice when fishing with kids. Once upon a time, I envisioned teaching my son how to fish without ever using bait, but this didn’t last very long.

I owed it to him to help him learn how to fish and to do that I had to make sure he had fun his first few times out. You do that by putting fish on the hook, not by teaching high-brow “artificial only” fishing techniques.

Bait is also great for a more leisurely fishing approach. It can be very relaxing to sit on the bank with a rod and enjoy the sunset while waiting for a catfish to swim by, or to play catch with your kids while a few rods rest on a forked stick waiting for a bluegill.

With all that said, fishing is only going to be as good as the fishing spot. It’s impossible to catch a fish that isn’t there, after all. I find that a lot of the fishermen who are using bait don’t seem to catch many fish. This is likely because they tend to wait for the fish to find them rather than going out in search of them. If you’re in the wrong spot, fishing with bait can be pretty boring.

Types of Artificial Lures

There are far more types of artificial lures out there than space to write here about them. They come in a host of different shapes and sizes, each designed to approach or address a slightly different situation. Some of the more common ones you’ll find are as follows:

Plastic Worms & Other Creatures

Probably the most famous artificial lure is the simple plastic worm. Some are designed to directly mimic worms, bugs, fish, rodents, and apparently alien life forms not from this earth. Some look very realistic while others make you wonder what the designer was doing when he thought of it.

They can come from the factory pre-scented, or you can apply your own. I would recommend trying to buy worms with some sort of scent to them or a high salt content.

A great worm that works very well is the Senko by Gary Yamamoto Baits. You can purchase them pack by pack, or buy a Yamamoto Senko Kit that comes with several colors so you can see what works best in your lake.

Plastic worms can be rigged them many different ways, including weedless, which makes them very versatile. Wired2Fish has a great article that discusses five of the more common ways to rig them.

They make a great lure for kids and beginners as they’re so simple to use. You’ll often find people (including me) recommend that you tie on before you leave the dock. These lures will catch any fish large enough to bite it.

Spinnerbaits and Buzzbaits

These lures are designed to be cast and retrieved at speed repeatedly. Spinnerbaits are retrieved under the water while buzzbaits ride along the surface spitting up bubbles as they go.

These are both designed to catch active fish as they require the fish to attack aggressively. While you can vary your speed and slow things down when times are tough, they are often fished very fast and are outstanding lures for power fishing.

Believe it or not, but spinnerbaits actually make great lures to troll with, especially if you’re with your kids. I wrote an article about trolling for pickerel with my four-year-old this year that you can read here.

Bass Jigs

These might be one of the more popular lures among tournament bass fisherman. They’re certainly responsible for some of the larger catches of all time. These are relatively simple lures, with a weighted head matched to a skirt of some sort, but they give off such a large profile that large bass tend to love them.

There are a host of options out there on the market, each with a unique design to accomplish different goals. Jigs are usually used for crawling over rocks, inching over laydowns, and swimming through weeds. There are some monster sized ones for fishing very deep and tiny, “finesse” applications for when you can’t buy a bite.

Speaking of the bite, it can be very hard to detect. I always struggled with jigs until I picked up some better equipment that was more sensitive. If you’re also struggling, check out my article on whether or not expensive fishing rods are worth it for some recommendations.

Crankbaits

These are an awesome lure for power fishing, and as soon as you know how to cast accurately and safely, you can start loading up the boat with fish by tossing crankbaits.

They’re very simple lures that have been around for some time. They’re essentially little wood or plastic plugs that have some treble hooks attached to them and are designed to dive to a certain depth once retrieved.

Even though they have treble hooks, many are designed with a large bill in the front that serves two purposes: (1) it allows the lure to dive when retrieved; (2) it allows some protection from the hooks as the bill shields them and deflects the plug off of cover.

Because of the treble hooks, I don’t like throwing these with my son in the boat. I’ll save them for when he gets older and I have more confidence in his casting.

Swimbaits

Swimbaits are a fairly new type of artificial lures, and quickly becoming one of the best. They can either be soft plastic or made from a hard material and are designed to look like live bait fish. Some of them are quite expensive (too expensive for me to risk in pike and pickerel-filled waters) but folks swear by them.

These make a good search bait and are good for beginners as you just cast and retrieve them, but they aren’t as weedless or tooth-proof as spinnerbaits as there is no bent wire frame to protect the hook from the weeds, or the line from some teeth.

Jerkbaits

These are some of my favorite lures. They look like long, skinny crankbaits and will either float, sink, or suspend at rest depending on the model. You work them by giving your rod a series of jerks in various patterns and rhythms until you find one that the fish like.

This is a very good cold water technique because it can be fished very slow and subtle. This allows you to keep the plug in an area where you expect fish to be stacked, such as in the pre-spawn.

Jerkbaits have been responsible for most of the 100-fish days in my life. If you get a few friends together during the pre-spawn and find the right rocky points, you can really clean up with this technique.

Topwater Plugs

Topwater plugs includes any type of lure that looks somewhat like a crankbait or jerkbait and is intended to float. What you do is toss it out (especially during low light conditions), wait for the ripples to subside, and then give it a little twitch or two. Wait for the ripples to subside again, and twitch it again.

This drives fish crazy, and can lead to some spectacular blowouts as fish burst through the water to attack it.

Unfortunately, the hook up rate can be low at first. It takes time to learn to make sure the fish actually got the lure before excitedly setting the hook. Many a fish got away because someone was too excited and set the hook too soon.

Frogs

This artificial lure is meant to look just like live bait. Frogs are a weedless topwater lure that are commonly thrown into very heavy vegetation, such as lily pad fields. You hop or crawl them across the top in the hopes of enticing giant bass to bite.

Frogs can be very frustrating lures. I’d never recommend them for kids or beginners. Nonetheless, they are very effective at drawing a strike at least, and visually impressive. They are plenty of fun so long as you can deal with plenty of failure.

Purchasing proper gear will improve your success rate with these lures. You’ll want a very heavy rod paired with very heavy braided line. Most folks recommend 65lb braid, though I tend to use 50. These sizes are far too heavy for most spinning reels, so you’re going to need baitcasters, which is another reason this is a poor technique for kids.

Spoons

Spoons are an older design that are still used today and catch a ton of fish. Essentially, they’re a piece of metal with a hook attached. They can be relatively flat, or curved like the business end of a spoon. Some are painted, while others are bare metal.

Spoons are popular lures to troll as they have an enticing, wobbling action while dragged through the water. They can also be cast and retrieved with a stop and go method that allows them to flutter down each time you stop reeling.

While they’re most popular with pike and salmon fishermen, bass will also take these lures.

When It Is Best to Use Artificial Lures Instead of Live Bait

I’d argue that you use an artificial lure any time that you want to get better at fishing. Every time you cast one out you’re practicing with it and building experience that you can apply later (especially if you decide to fish tournaments someday).

I also find artificial lures to be easier to use around heavy weeds and other cover. This is mostly because live bait tends to leave the hook exposed and will foul easily in such conditions. There are certain artificial lures and ways to rig them that are ideally suited for fishing in slop or laydowns and will come through without much issue.

Artificial lures are also very useful when you want to cover a lot of water by “power fishing.” This technique involves rapidly casting and retrieving to search for the active fish in an area. While there’s nothing that says you can’t also power fish with live bait, it probably won’t hold up to repeated casting as well and you may find it often flies off the hook. Also, most live bait is fished fairly slow. With power fishing you want to cover a lot of water quickly.

Finally, you should use artificial lures if you are in a bass fishing tournament. Chances are if you don’t, you’re in violation of the tournament rules!

Berkley Gulp vs. Live Bait

There is a third option. While Berkley Gulp is technically an artificial lure and not live bait, it almost comes across as a “hybrid.” It is a very supple lure with great action that comes absolutely doused in scent and attractant. The minnows especially are one of my all-time favorite dropshot lures.

Berkley Gulp can be used in fishing tournaments, though if you’re the co-angler you’d better be careful not to spill the juices all over your boater’s carpet. This would not endear you to your fishing partner!

Berkley claims that Gulp outfishes live bait and I’ve certainly had days where it seemed that way. If you get small enough minnows that panfish can fit in their mouths, you could actually go out with kids, leave the nightcrawlers at home, and do just fine.

This product is a great alternative if you have moral or philosophical objections to using live bait while fishing, but still want your kids to have a good time.

One thing I don’t like about the product is that it’s really hard to keep fresh over time and doesn’t seem to work as well if you buy it in the bags than if you purchase it in the big plastic tubs. The tubs keep the lures submerged in attractant and I find these work much, much better.

If you buy the tubs, make sure you keep them out of the sun as the liquid heats up quickly and tends to make the lures even softer and more likely to pull from the hook.

The Verdict: What is Better, Live Bait or Artificial Lures?

For years, I was a bit of a “purist’ and would only fish with artificial lures, but this all changed the second my son was born and I knew I had to put him on as many fish as possible, as quickly as possible.

If you’re just teaching your kids to fish, or even learning to fish yourself, you’ll have more successes and smiles if you bring along some nightcrawlers for the trip.

That’s not to say you can’t also fish with artificial lures, but one of the maxims I try to follow (especially when fishing with children) is to put a fish–any fish–into the livewell as quickly as possible to “get the skunk out of the boat” and just ensure that something was caught. As with everything else in life, much of your success while fishing will boil down to your morale, so catching something quickly is key.

With that said, if you’re going by yourself (or even with a little more patient children), bring those artificial lures along. Fishing with them will make you a better fisherman and you can apply what you learn with artificial lures when you’re fishing live bait as well.

In sum, there is a place for both.

I hope this article helped reduce your learning curve a bit. I wrote a book that aims to help reduce it even more. Consider purchasing your copy of Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide today!

Thanks,

John Paxton

Are Expensive Fishing Rods Worth It?

My wife constantly teases me about how I turn one of the world’s least expensive hobbies into one of my most expensive obsessions. She can’t fathom why I would “need” a rod that costs several hundred dollars when there are plenty of perfectly good ones out there for less than fifty. If you’re new to fishing, you or your spouse might be wondering the same thing. Is there really a point to buying an expensive fishing rod?

In my experience, you can definitely feel the difference between expensive and cheaper fishing rods. Expensive rods are more sensitive, able to detect smaller bites, and generally more fun to use than their cheaper counterparts.

With that said, the law of diminishing returns definitely applies. There’s much more difference between a $50 rod and a $150 rod than between a $100 rod and a $300 rod.

Before we go any further: please note that most of the rods here are recommendations for parents. If you’re seeking some advice on what type of rods you should buy for your kids or grand kids, I have another article that discusses that here. Further, if you’re interested in learning if expensive fishing reels are worth it, I wrote an article that discusses that here. Check it out.

Expensive Fishing Rods Have Diminishing Returns

As you’ll soon see, I currently own eight different classes of St. Croix rods, including their entry level bass fishing rod, the Triumph, and their top-end product, the Legend Xtreme. I will tell you right now that there is a huge difference between these two rods.

There is significantly less difference between my Avid rods (a mid-tier offering) and the Xtreme series. There is almost no perceptible difference between my Legend Elite and Legend Xtreme rods, although the latter has a few nice touches.

Keep this in mind as you read through my reviews. You may not have a legitimate need or purpose for one of the higher-end rods. You may live a perfectly happy life with rods lower on the price scale.

Intended Use of the Rod

When you’re trying to figure out how much you should spend on a fishing rod, or what class of rod to purchase, you also want to consider the intended use. Ask yourself a few questions. What types of lures you want to use with the rod? How likely it is that you’ll know a fish has struck with the technique you’re using?

I use my Legend Xtreme as a bass jig rod because I am less comfortable with that technique. I wanted a rod precise enough to help me understand what was happening under the water. The Legend Xtreme allows me to feel every twitch, to differentiate between rocks and leaves on the bottom, and to make the most out of this technique.

It would, however, be total overkill for a spinnerbait. There is never any doubt that a fish has struck a spinnerbait. You could use any rod in this list below equally well with this technique. The only reason you might prefer one of the more expensive fishing rods would be that they have a lower weight, but you’re only shaving off tenths of an ounce. That absolutely would add up if you were fishing 8-10 hours per day, but if you’re just a recreational fisherman, you’re wasting your money.

A Few Notes Before We Begin

When comparing fishing rods it’s important to realize that their measurements are not standardized in the industry.

Fishing rods come in many different powers, such as medium-heavy. However, two different manufacturers could have completely different opinions for what “medium-heavy power” is. This makes comparisons difficult unless you happen to favor one brand.

Luckily, I do. While I do have more than my share of UglyStiks, as they’re great rods for kids, the majority of my rods were manufactured by St. Croix Rods. They are high-quality, reasonably priced, feature a great warranty, and most importantly (to me at least), sticking with one manufacturer gives me the consistency in power ratings.

It’s also important to remember that St. Croix Rods offer many more series than these, but these are the ones I’ve owned, used, and thoroughly tested. I’m uncomfortable making recommendations about products I haven’t fielded, so this won’t discuss every last series that they make.

I also own one of their panfish series of rods, but will concentrate on their bass lineup here. If you want to learn more about my thoughts on why the panfish series is an awesome “high-end” rod for kids, you can read my post about it here.

I feel this helps me select the right tool for the job, and also should lend some consistency to this article. With that out of the way, let’s discuss the differences between the various lines of St. Croix Rods that I own.

St. Croix Triumph

One of the least expensive St. Croix's on the market, the Triumph fishing rod is a good  beginner's choice.

The St. Croix Triumph series is their “entry level rod” but that is a relative term. An “entry level” St. Croix rod is still an impressive fishing tool that you’ll keep in your rod box for years.

The Triumph series features SCII graphite and is manufactured in Mexico. It comes with a 5-year warranty, though I’ve found the rod to be sturdy and hold up well even to my four-year-old’s use.

These come in a variety of sizes, including short ultralights which are very appropriate for small children and anyone else who is fishing for panfish.

These rods are affordable and could be good “workhorse” rods for your family. You can buy two or more of them for the price of some of the higher-end series discussed below.

I don’t find these rods to be the most sensitive that I own so I tend to use them for things like topwater or spinnerbaits. They’re fine for any technique where the bite is going to be obvious. You certainly don’t need an overly expensive fishing rod for every technique. Use Triumphs where it makes sense.

If you’re interested in picking up this great rod, you can buy it at Amazon:

St. Croix Premier

The Premier line of fishing rods come in a number of lengths, powers, and actions, and many aren't expensive.

The St. Croix Premier are a step above the Triumph. They are designed and built in the United States out of SCII graphite and feature a 5-year warranty. I’d consider these to almost be the “standard” rods that St. Croix offers. They come in an enormous variety of lengths, powers, and actions, and are one of the few in the lineup that feature a spinning rod that comes in heavy power.

I wanted to get my wife a rod that she could fish frogs with and I knew she would need a heavy power brute to pull fish from vast vegetation, but she doesn’t use baitcasters. The Premier spinning rod in heavy power, fast action is a great spinning rod for frog fishing.

Recently, I picked up a 6′ model with medium power and fast action for my son’s first “spinner baits” rod and presented it to him for his 5th birthday. This really is the line where you can find a rod for anything.

I don’t own very many of these, but I do appreciate the wide variety offered and the range of applications they support. You can pick your own up at Amazon today.

St. Croix Mojo Bass

The Mojo Bass series is a great fishing rod because it isn't expensive but does offer split grips and many technique-specific actions.

The Mojo Bass Series is very popular for St. Croix and it’s easy to see why. They were redesigned a few years ago and now feature SCIII graphite though mine are the older versions with SCII. These come in split grips, have a 5-year warranty, and are a good all-around value for the money. While this series is designed in the United States, it is not manufactured here if that is important to you.

I own a few of the Mojo series and spend quite a bit of time fishing with them. My main spinnerbait rod is a medium-heavy power, fast action Mojo casting rod. I like it because it’s lightweight enough to toss all day but also inexpensive enough that I don’t think twice handing it to my five-year-old to reel in a fish.

I would recommend it as a good balance between price and performance. They series comes in a variety of lengths, powers, and actions with specific techniques in mind.

I used to consider the Mojo series a good rod for techniques where you really didn’t need a hyper-sensitive blank to detect light bites, but now that they share the same SCIII graphite as the Avid series (discussed below) they make a lot more sense for other techniques where you want greater sensitivity.

This change to SCIII might allow the Mojo to take a serious run at “best bang for your buck.” Check them out on Amazon to find the best price.

St. Croix Avid Series

I consider the St. Croix Avid Series to be the best bang for your buck.  It is very sensitive and isn't that expensive of a fishing rod.

In my opinion, the Avid series is your best bang for your buck. I’d argue that after this series, the law of diminishing returns really kicks in. These rods have SCIII graphite like the Mojo, but feature a 15-year transferable warranty. That alone is worth the price difference from a Mojo, and makes the Avid series a great rod to purchase used (see my guide for doing so here).

The Avid family comes in a variety of shapes and colors. I’m kind of a “meat and potatoes” guy, so I personally prefer the classic look of the Avid Spinning and Casting, both of which are designed and built in the United States.

I really enjoy the Avid series so I use them for most of my fishing. Even though I probably don’t need a rod this sensitive for a spinnerbait, it is just fun to toss one with these. I also like using an Avid for throwing out Senkos or texas-rigged worms as I can detect bites better.

If you’re looking for a great gift for your wife or daughter, you can pick up the Avid Pearl, which is a rod designed specifically for women. These are gorgeous, high-performing rods. My wife has owned one for the better part of a decade and it has never let her down. I do wish it came in medium-heavy power as a spinning rod, however.

My wife loves her St. Croix Avid Pearl.
The Avid Pearl would make a great Mother’s Day gift for a fishing wife.

St. Croix Legend Tournament

While not as expensive as some of the other fishing rods St. Croix offers, the Legend Tournament is still a fine rod for your arsenal.
The Legend Tournament (right) makes for a great bass jig rod.

I picked up two St. Croix Legend Tournament rods at an auction once and ended up selling one of them as it was a little bit more specific of a power/action than I needed. These come in a ton of casting models and a decent amount of spinning models, and they’re “technique specific” meaning that each variation was specifically designed for a particular use.

This of course doesn’t mean that you can only use them for what the label says, but it does help you plan as you’re building your arsenal.

They come in SCIV graphite, are designed and built in the United States, and feature a 15-year transferable warranty. They really are designed more for the tournament fisherman than just a simple fishing father, and if money was on the line and you wanted a great balance of sensitivity and performance, I could see building out a rod locker mostly comprised of these.

While they certainly aren’t cheap, they’re not anywhere near as expensive as the Legend Elite and Legend Xtreme fishing rods discussed below. If you’re the kind of person who really values high-end equipment, this brand might be your “workhorse” rather than some of the more affordable options others use to fill that role.

St. Croix Legend Elite

The St. Croix Legend Elite is expensive, but is also my favorite fishing rod.

While the Avid series might be the best bang for your buck, I absolutely LOVE my Legend Elites. I own one for each of my two favorite fishing techniques: the drop shot and the jerkbait.

They are one of the more expensive fishing rods out there, but they’re well worth it. Their cost is explained by their combination of premium SCV and SCVI graphite and other quality components. These come with a 15-year transferable warranty and are designed and manufactured in the United States.

These are just the perfect drop shot rods. My medium-light power, fast action “wizard wand” is hands-down the favorite rod I own. I could fish with it all day long and it has caught some extremely large fish for its size and power, including a bruiser carp.

The 6’6″ medium power, fast action rod I use for jerkbaits is also great and allows me to work this labor-intensive technique throughout a long day without tiring. I don’t really “need” this sensitive of a rod for a jerkbait (the bites are obvious), but when you’re jerking in giant lures all day, it’s nice to do so on a very light rod.

These are high-end fishing rods and deserve a high-end reel. I favor the Pflueger Patriarch as I’m a fan of the brand and feel it matches very well.

It’s a little hard for me to recommend that anyone go and spend the kind of money that these command new, but if you can find one used, the transferable warranty makes these a great buy, especially if you prefer their subdued design over the more pronounced Xtreme series.

St. Croix Legend Xtreme

Though one of the more expensive fishing rods you can buy, the St. Croix Legend Xtreme is a great choice for applications that demand sensitivity.

The St. Croix Legend Xtreme is another very expensive fishing rod. It is technically the “best” fishing rod that I own, but I don’t use it that often because I don’t really fish bass jigs that frequently ever since my son started coming out fishing with me. This is a big fish lure, and therefore this is my big fish rod, so I’m usually only tossing it the rare times I go out myself.

I had a tough time learning to fish with bass jigs. It’s a technique I taught myself later in life and didn’t grow up on. Because of this, I found I had a hard time detecting light bites and didn’t have much success until I went out and bought this rod specifically for the purpose.

I’m much more successful now and do feel that the rod made a difference. I’m glad I have it and I wouldn’t sell it. If you have a technique that you really need to feel precisely what is under the water, it might make sense to look at a top-class, expensive rod such as the Legend Xtreme, but I do think it would be completely overkill for most techniques.

The Legend Xtreme features a combination of SCV and SCVI graphite, comes in a wide range of sizes, powers, and speeds, and is designed and manufactured in the United States. It comes with a 15-year transferable warranty.

Where to Buy These Rods

If you’re wondering where to buy any of the rods in this article, let me fill you in on a little secret: St. Croix rods rarely, if ever, go on sale in box stores. Most of the sales that these stores have will specifically exclude this brand. While you can, on occasion, find that the manufacturer itself will offer a sale for select items, it’s very rare to see them discounted at a local store.

Thus, these rods a great way to support a local tackle shop that carries them, as you don’t have to worry about missing out on a great deal by supporting your neighbor. Or, if you don’t have a tackle shop nearby, you can also simply use Amazon and enjoy the convenience of buying from a retailer you have probably used extensively in the past. Here’s a link to the rod that I personally feel is the best value.

Conclusion: Expensive Fishing Rods Are Worth It (Sometimes).

You shouldn’t let a hobby break your budget, but if you’re going to get into one as potentially frustrating as fishing, you ought to start with decent equipment. While I’d certainly advocate buying a less expensive brand for your kids, you as the fishing father or mother should invest in quality. St. Croix Rods are a great choice.

Out of all of the rod series discussed above, I’d argue that your first one should probably be a Triumph, or a Premier. These are solid fishing rods that you can be proud of without spoiling yourself with something too expensive, or light.

Neither of these models will let you down and you could pick up a few different sizes, powers, and actions in these series for the price of one of the more expensive ones. This will allow you to build up your arsenal quickly and experiment with different lures and techniques.

I hope this article and my review of the different models helped to break down some differences and give you a little real world perspective on the different St. Croix rod series. I’d like to invite you to join my Facebook group to be updated on new articles. I’ve thought about how best to reach folks and decided that I hate mailing lists, and Facebook is the way to go. Please consider liking the page so we can keep in touch.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Can You Use WD-40 On Fishing Line and Lures?

Fishermen will try some pretty fantastic things to gain an edge out there on the water, including using a common household item in some very interesting ways. Some fishermen use WD-40 to clean their reels, others spray it on their fishing line, and many even swear it works if you spray it on lures as a fish attractant. The question, though, is are these people onto something, or just nuts?

While I’m not going to claim to be a scientist or lawyer, I did some research for this article and concluded that you’re better off just buying a dedicated reel cleaner, line spray or fish attractant. That way you don’t have to worry about damaging your gear, polluting your lake, or suffering legal consequences.

I would be very happy to find that none of my readers continued using WD-40 as a fish attractant, line conditioner, or reel cleaner after reading this post. Let’s explore why.

Is It Illegal to Use WD-40 on Fishing Lures?

From what I can tell, it depends, but I sure wouldn’t risk it. Some people have reported receiving very hefty fines for being caught using WD-40 on their fishing lures, whereas other state governments are apparently fine with it (source). Bear in mind that just because a state government is OK with something doesn’t make it a good idea.

You would probably want to consult with a licensed legal professional to see if it is legal in your neck of the woods, or on a particular water body. In fact, if you read Section 311 (b) (1) of the Clean Water Act, it would seem it is illegal to use WD-40 in “navigable waters:”

“(b)(1) The Congress hereby declares that it is the policy of the
United States that there should be no discharges of oil or hazardous
substances into or upon the navigable waters of the United
States, adjoining shorelines, or into or upon the waters of the contiguous
zone, or in connection with activities under the Outer Continental
Shelf Lands Act or the Deepwater Port Act of 1974, or
which may affect natural resources belonging to, appertaining to,
or under the exclusive management authority of the United States
(including resources under the Fishery Conservation and Management
Act of 1976).”

I’m certainly not a lawyer and can’t give legal advice. However, when I read that law quoted above, “no discharges of oil” is pretty clear to me. I’d avoid using WD-40 on fishing lures as some sort of “attractant.”

Even if it wasn’t illegal, why would you want to willingly and deliberately introduce a petroleum-based chemical into your waterway? Isn’t there enough pollution in this world without you adding to it just to catch a fish? It hardly strikes me as a good thing, and I’d urge you not to do it. Fishermen are the best and the worst conservationists out there. Which half do you belong to?

Does WD-40 Work as a Fish Attractant?

One reason people put WD-40 on their fishing lures is because they think it attracts fish. Apparently, people have been using WD-40 as a fish attractant for decades, and several swear by it. Judging by forum responses it seems that people think salmon,lake trout, and catfish like it particularly well.

While I can’t find an actual scientific study with control groups to comment on if WD-40 actually attracts fish, I think it is at least fair to say that it doesn’t appear to be a deterrent, as it has seemed to have worked for many anglers over the years.

It appears that it was used more frequently as an attractant “in the old days.” We’ve come quite a way since then. Today, most people generally frown on directly polluting our lakes and rivers and I would hope you share that opinion. Even if this stuff did work as an attractant, it’s not worth the impact to the environment.

The WD-40 company has directly stated that they don’t recommend using their product as a fish attractant. I’d urge you to take their advice on this.

It needs to be said, again and repeatedly, that WD-40 is a pollutant. Even if it does work as an attractant, you shouldn’t use it. There are plenty of other safe attractants out there that people have confidence in. I would recommend Gulp! Alive! Attractant as I routinely use their minnows that are soaked in the same stuff and find they work great. The bottom line is there is no need to stoop to polluting the water ways to catch a fish when there are purpose-made products available for the task.

Also, if you’re new to the sport, bear in mind that attractants aren’t some magic shortcut. Invest some time in yourself and learn a few new techniques. You’ll be better off than risking fines or worse by spraying this product on your lures.

Will WD-40 Damage Fishing Line?

From what I can tell this is another one of those “it depends” answers. WD-40 has a chemical composition that is going to break down or weaken certain objects and have absolutely no effect on others. Depending on your fishing line’s composition or formula, spraying WD-40 on it could cause just about anything could happen.

I’ve seen many people make the argument that it should be just fine for most monofilament. They argue that since this type of line is made out of much the same stuff as gas cans, a petroleum-based product shouldn’t harm it.

People are less certain about different types of braid, especially those that are coated with various materials. It’s tough to say how WD-40 might affect those.

Regardless, it is important to remember–again–that it is a pollutant. If you are spraying WD-40 on your fishing line to try and keep it supple, and then cast that fishing line into the water, you are polluting your local waterway. You are making the water less safe and enjoyable for others around you, including your children. Even if you feel the impact is negligible, it is more than necessary.

There are plenty of other great products out there for keeping your monofilament and fluorocarbon lines. I’ve used Line & Lure Conditioner Kevin VanDam’s 4oz Spray and feel it works well for keeping my line supple and reducing memory. Some people claim it adds distance to their cast which makes sense, but I haven’t noticed this. It might just be that I haven’t really paid attention to it though. Both are better options than dousing your fishing line in WD-40 and polluting your waterways!

Can I Use WD-40 to Clean My Fishing Reel?

It does seem that just about every potential application for WD-40 receives vigorous debate on the fishing forums. This question is no different. Some people recommend lightly wiping down the exterior of your fishing reels with WD-40, especially after using them near salt water, while others complain that it will eventually gum up on your reels and collect dirt.

People do seem to at least agree this should be for external use only, and never for greasing any internal components of the reels. This is because fishing reels rely on proper lubrication, and even though WD-40 is often mistaken as a lubricant, it can break down the different chemicals and solutions necessary to keep your reel working properly.

About the only thing I can conclusively say is that if done correctly, at least this will not harm the environment because your reel should (ideally at least) never be submerged in the lake, river, pond or ocean.

All in all, I don’t see a reason to use WD-40. Several companies make purpose-made reel cleaners (such as Ardent Reel Kleen Cleaner, 16-Ounce) that you know will work without damaging your reel.

Conclusions: Save It for the Squeaky Hinges

Look, I’m as big a believer as the next guy in WD-40 and Duct Tape being all you need to fix life’s problems, but the bottom line is we’re talking about a pollutant here that could be introduced into a waterway, and could potentially damage your gear as well. Why do either?

You could definitely find people who would disagree with everything I’ve said here. That’s the nature of life and especially the internet. But FishingFather is a site designed to help parents take their kids out fishing. One of the main reasons I want more parents to do that is so that there are future stewards of conservationism and the environment.

It would be completely against the spirit of this site to take a kid out fishing and then teach them to spray their lures down with WD-40, or any other pollutant, so I hope you’ll stick to the commercial, environmentally-friendly sprays out there.

Again, Line & Lure Conditioner Kevin VanDam’s 4oz Spray, Ardent Reel Kleen Cleaner, 16-Ounce, and a host of fish attractants are all better products for fishing. Consider purchasing them instead.

Another item you might consider picking up at Amazon is my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide. While it won’t discuss the wonders of WD-40, it does provide several useful tips for fishing with children.

Remember, scents aren’t a magic bullet. If you’re looking for some help catching more fish, purchase the book above, or check out the following articles on my website:

I’d argue that you’d get much more use out of spending your time reading these articles than heading off to the hardware store for a can of WD-40!

I hope this article was helpful. If it was, please consider sharing it so it can help others. You can also follow FishingFather on Facebook to keep in touch with new content and fishing reports.

Thanks,

John Paxton