As anglers have become more aware of methods such as catch and release and selective harvest, there has been an increased interest in circle hooks that promise to reduce unintended fish mortality, as they’re safer for fish than traditional J hooks. However, many anglers who think they’re using a circle hook are actually using an octopus hook as they look quite similar. Further complicating things, some manufacturers market an “octopus circle hook.” How can you tell if you’re using a circle hook vs. a j hook, or even an octopus hook?
It’s not as complicated as it seems to distinguish circle hooks vs. j hooks. A circle hook’s point bends inwards. Its point is meant to grab a fish by the corner of the mouth when it is reeled in. Unlike a circle hook, the point of a traditional, or j hook, points straight up. It is meant to jab into a fish’s mouth with the force of the bite, or a solid hookset. An octopus hook can either be a circle hook or traditional depending on how the point is aligned, but all octopus hooks have an eye that is offset from the shank. Most octopus hooks have a point that bends slightly inward, but it isn’t as pronounced as a circle hook.
Circle Hook vs. J Hook
Perhaps a better way of explaining the difference between a circle hook and a traditional hook is to think of them like the letters G and J. The point of a circle hook bends inward like the bottom of a G. A traditional hook, in contrast, looks much like a J. Its point sticks straight up towards the sky.
Circle hooks (Left) have a point that bends inward like a G as opposed to J hooks (right) where the hook points straight up.
J hooks are by far what most people start with. They’re featured on multiple lures like jigs and spinnerbaits and there’s nothing wrong with them – they’re quite effective. However, if you’re fishing live bait and you go to set the hook, you could impale the fish quite deep in its stomach. This could potentially kill it. Thus, J style hooks have fallen out of favor when fishing live bait. Even if you plan on keeping the fish anyway, you never know what species will bite. You might want to spare a certain fish’s life that bites your hook. Circle hooks will help you do that.
Circle Hook vs. Octopus Hook
People commonly misidentify octopus hooks as circle hooks. The two look similar as both hooks’ points bend inward slightly, but an octopus hook point’s bend is much less pronounced. Additionally, the eye of an octopus hook bends outward. This allows the hook to be snelled more easily, as the line can go straight down the shaft of the hook.
While both hooks have an octopus-style eye, the hook on the right’s point is not as curved, making it an octopus hook vs. a circle hook (left).
Why Use Circle Hooks for Fishing?
If you’re going to be fishing with live bait and intend to throw any fish you catch back, you should consider using circle hooks vs an octopus hook or j hook. A circle hook’s unique design limits the chance that you will gut hook a fish. This enhances their survivability. The reason this is so is how the hook is designed. While a J hook is going to jab straight into a fish’s flesh, if you try and set the hook with a circle hook, all you’re going to do is pull the hook away from the fish.
How To Set a Circle Hook
Fishing with a circle hook can be extremely unintuitive as you don’t set the hook. If you snap your rod back the second you feel a fish on a circle hook, all you’re going to do is pull the hook away. What you want to do instead is reel in. The idea is if you reel in your hook and the fish turns its head from you, when the hook reaches the very corner of the fish’s mouth, it’ll catch on its own, almost like its a grappling hook catching on the edge of a building.
This is ideal for a few reasons. One, the fish is hooked in a place that is unlikely to be mortal. Secondly, the fish is hooked in what is usually a pretty solid part of its mouth which should allow you to reel it in.
Circle Hooks and Catfish: The Perfect Match
If you’re after giant catfish, circle hooks are ideal. For one, these monstrous fish have no trouble inhaling bait in their gaping maw. If you don’t use a circle hook when fishing for catfish, there’s a great chance you’ll gut hook them. Secondly, certain catfish bait like chicken liver is easier to keep on a circle hook than a j hook.
Once catfish get too big they stop being that tasty, in my opinion, and start being better trophies. Few taxidermists will mount them and you’re better off with artificial fish mounts. Given this, you really want to make sure the big cats survive. When fishing with live or cut bait please consider using a circle hook to enhance the fishery for generations to come.
Are You Legally Required to Use Circle Hooks?
In some states, it is the law to use circle hooks when fishing live bait. When I was researching if treble hooks are illegal in the different states, I often found that certain states require circle hooks when fishing live bait for certain species the state is trying to protect. For the most part, you see these laws when you’re talking about going after stripers, but they can also apply to other fish.
As of writing, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Maryland, Mississippi, New York, and Pennsylvania all have laws on the books that prohibit the use of certain hooks when fishing with live bait. Most prefer (or require) the use of circle hooks instead. Further, there is a federal regulation, 50 CFR 635.21(f) to contend with. This prohibits the use of any hook that isn’t a circle hook in billfish tournaments and while recreationally fishing for sharks.
What Brands Would I Recommend?
Any time I’m looking to buy some fishing hooks, I’m usually focusing on three brands: Mustad, Gamakatsu, and Trokar. My recommendation would be to buy whatever they have in your local tackle shop and support a small business. All three of these brands are great and won’t let you down. The shopkeeper will be happy to help you get the right size of hook for the type of fish you’re going for. If you don’t have a tackle shop near you, all of these brands are also available on Amazon. Here are a few links to each so you can check them out.
Eagle Claw TK619 2/0 Trokar circle hook – this larger size is going to make this a good circle hook for fishing catfish or other large species. You need a larger hook to hold onto a good-sized piece of chicken liver or other cut bait.
Gamakatsu Octopus Circle hook – these are great if you want to rig them snelled as the octopus style allows for that. Several sizes are offered via a drop down (use a smaller size for smaller fish).
While circle hooks do take some getting used to since you don’t set the hook as normal, they are far better for any fish you intend to release unharmed. Gut hooking fish is never a pretty business. You’re often faced with two dismal choices: either cut the line (and leave the hook in) or try and retrieve it (and potentially kill the fish). Instead, consider using a circle hook vs. a j hook and avoid this situation altogether. You’ll catch just as many fish while mortally wounding far fewer. It’s better for you, better for the fish, and better for the next angler. It’s a win, win, win.
Depending where you live, the old fishing tackle you have lying around your garage or inherited from your Grandpa might be saltwater fishing gear. If you’re wondering if you can use a saltwater rod or reel in freshwater, the answer is yes. Freshwater won’t hurt your saltwater fishing rods and reels. Unfortunately, the opposite is not true. Saltwater can devastate freshwater rods and reels if you don’t quickly clean them thoroughly after use.
Let’s discuss what the difference is between fresh and saltwater fishing gear and why the fishing rod and reel that works fine in the ocean will also work well in a freshwater farm pond (but not vice versa).
Freshwater vs. Saltwater Fishing Differences
There are several differences when it comes to freshwater vs. saltwater fishing that you should be aware of when considering if you should mix and match gear. Some are obvious (like the fact that saltwater has, well, salt). Others aren’t nearly as obvious (such as that many saltwater fish have never seen a lure in their life, and aren’t as line shy).
When most people ask if they can use freshwater rods, reels, or lures in saltwater, they’re primarily concerned that the saltwater is going to corrode and damage the metal parts on their gear. While this is a real concern, it’s not the only one. Most freshwater fishing gear and lures is like child’s play to an average saltwater fish. Bear in mind that many “small” saltwater fish are bigger than keeper largemouth bass. Once you get to “normal” or “average” sized ocean fish, your freshwater fishing gear might not be able to handle the saltwater species.
Further, you’ll note that many saltwater fishing reels (and especially saltwater spinning reels) are gigantic compared to their freshwater cousins. This is because the greater depths and larger fish in the ocean necessitate the use of more line of heavier pound test.
All of this is going to factor into why fishing gear is specifically made for an ocean, or a lake, and why most people would recommend you not mix and match.
Can You Use a Saltwater Rod in Freshwater
There’s no reason you can’t use a saltwater rod in freshwater. It’s not as though you need to put away your ocean fishing rods when you start chasing striped bass up a river. Freshwater will have absolutely no ill effects on saltwater rods or reels. The only issue is that that saltwater rod will probably feel like a pool cue when matched up against smaller freshwater fish.
Let’s take a look at my old favorite rod manufacturer, St. Croix Rods. Here’s a difference between a Mojo Bass Spinning Rod, a Mojo Inshore Spinning Rod, and a Mojo Salt Spinning Rod:
Model
Length
Power
Action
Pieces
Line Weight (LB.)
Rod Weight (OZ.)
Mojo Bass Spinning Rod
7’1
M
F
1
6-12
4.1
Mojo Inshore Spinning Rod
7′
M
F
1
8-17
4.7
Mojo Salt Spinning Rod
7′
M
F
1
15-30
11.8
The difference in weight between three comparable freshwater, inshore, and saltwater fishing rods.
As you can see, while there isn’t that much difference between the freshwater fishing rod and inshore fishing rod, the ocean fishing rod is nearly THREE TIMES as heavy as the Mojo Bass. That’s incredible!
Can You Use a Freshwater Rod in Saltwater
If in a pinch, you could use a freshwater fishing rod in the ocean, but I’d rush home and rinse it thoroughly as soon as I was done fishing, making sure I got into every last little crevice in the reel seat, and paying special attention to the line guides. Any spec of salt that you miss has the potential of cutting that rod’s lifetime down to a fraction.
Saltwater fishing rods are engineered to handle spray from the surf and all the corrosive effects of the ocean. They’re often coated with special material to protect the rod from damage. Likewise, the line guides are made from types of material that can handle saltwater. There’s no guarantee that a freshwater rod would have these elements as there’s no incentive for manufacturers to add them at cost for no gain.
There’s also the risk of running into a bigger fish than your rod can handle. The ocean is a big place, and there’s no shortage of videos of people wrestling in giant fish right from a pier. Bringing a freshwater rod out into the ocean can be like bringing a knife to a gun fight.
Can You Use a Freshwater Reel in Saltwater?
The biggest issue with trying to use a freshwater fishing rod in saltwater is that you’ve probably got a freshwater reel attached to it.
As with the rods comparison earlier, saltwater spinning reels are going to weigh more than freshwater spinning reels on average. This time, I looked at two manufacturers. Specifically, Penn and Pflueger. I chose the Penn Pursuit III Spinning reel and compared it against the Pflueger President. I chose these two rods because they both come in size 3000, and are priced comparably. Here’s what I found:
Saltwater vs. Freshwater Spinning Reel Weight Comparison
Model
Max Drag
Line Capacity (Mono)
Reel Weight
Pflueger President (PRESSP30X)
10lb
255/4 145/6 130/8
8.8 oz
Penn Pursuit III (PURIII3000)
12lb
200/8 165/10 120/12
11.8 oz
A saltwater reel is going to weigh more and require heavier line than its comparable freshwater model.
While there’s nothing stopping you from bringing a saltwater reel over to your local farm pond, you’re going to be lugging around extra ounces and forced to use heavier line than is likely ideal.
Price Considerations
Another factor is that saltwater fishing reels tend to be more expensive. While this isn’t an absolute, a good saltwater fishing reel can run more than $100 while you can get plenty of outstanding freshwater reels for far less than that. Just check out my article on whether or not expensive fishing reels are worth it for plenty of examples of great reels that don’t have a huge price tag.
All the same, even though saltwater reels cost more, if you intend to routinely fish in the ocean, you need to pony up the extra cash. What good is it buying a reel that’s half as expensive if it breaks down and needs to be replaced in half the time? You might as well just get the proper gear in the first place.
Can You Use Freshwater Lures in Saltwater?
Another question you may have relates to saltwater vs. freshwater fishing gear, and specifically, if you can use freshwater lures in saltwater. To answer that question, let’s look at what happened to a box of my fishing lures after I forgot to dry freshwater off of them.
This is a jumbled mess but you can see what freshwater will do to hooks much less ocean spray.
See all that rust? Yeah, freshwater fishing lures are terrible at resisting it. If you add in some salt spray, you can just forget it. Sure, fish might bite rusty hooks, but it’s never something to aim for!
Once again, the elements aren’t the only thing you need to consider. You’ll also be going after bigger fish. Consider for a moment what a good sized bass will do to a Rapala Shadow Rap’s hooks. Now, imagine that same lure in a bluefish’s mouth. I’d be surprised if you got half your lure back!
Saltwater fishing gear is made to stand up to the elements and larger fish. Using freshwater stuff in the surf is basically throwing it away. On the other hand, saltwater lures would work fine in freshwater. They just might catch bigger fish as they’ll tend to be up a size.
If you Could Only Buy One, Which Would It Be?
I suppose if you only had the funds for one combo, and liked fishing in freshwater and the ocean, you’d have to give saltwater gear the nod. For all the drawbacks of heavier weight and the need for greater line size, at least you know that the elements won’t destroy your fishing gear. While it’s not ideal, at least you can bring saltwater rods and reels into freshwater without needing to give them a cold shower afterward. I’d still try and buy a combo that is reasonably light enough where reeling in a northern pike didn’t feel like a minnow, but that’s just me.
I hope this article was helpful and saved you some headaches or broken gear. Have you found fishing gear that works well in both fresh and saltwater? Sound off in the comments below, or join my Facebook Group and tell me all about it!
Even though many of us started bass fishing with spinning rods, they almost have a stigma about them. It’s not too hard to find an angler who holds their nose up to them, or implies that they can’t handle many of the more common situations. Some people seem to think that spinning rods are only good for light lines and lures. This is baloney. A spinning rod is a perfectly good tool for bass fishing. You just might need to be search a little bit if you need a spinning rod for a hyper-specific situation.
Why the Stigma?
As I mentioned above, there’s almost a stigma against using a spinning rod. Some seem to feel it is amateurish to use these instead of the more complex baitcasters. Certainly, having spent the time necessary to learn a baitcaster inside and out is the mark of an enthusiast, but it isn’t strictly necessary by any means. Indeed, if you’re just fishing for fun, or flat out don’t want the bother with a baitcaster, there’s nothing wrong with using a spinning rod.
Spinning rods vs. baitcasters are very much like an automatic transmission vs. a stick shift in a car. Those who prefer the latter like to put on airs now and then, but the people using the automatics are still getting from Point A to Point B just fine (and often with a lot less hassle)!
Frankly, most mature adults gave up picking on people for what stuff they use back in about middle school, so this isn’t something to really worry about. If someone gives you flak for using a spinning rod, just count your blessings that you don’t allow such trivialities to bother you.
What are Casting Rods Best For?
Casting rods do have their place. While I would submit that just about anything they can do, a spinning rod can do marginally worse, there are certain applications that just are more enjoyable to fish with a baitcaster.
Chunking Heavy Lures
Typically speaking, a baitcaster is going to be your better choice for throwing heavy lures. It’s much easier to find a baitcasting rod set up for this, but more importantly, a “standard” size baitcasting reel can handle large lures just fine. This is because baitcasters are made to accept the heavier fishing line that is normally attached to these bigger fishing lures. In contrast, you’d need a very large spinning rod to toss the bigger lures.
Heavy Cover Situations
Because baitcasting reels act as a winch, they are much better for dragging fish out of heavy cover such as lily pads than spinning reels. That’s not to say you can’t also do this with a spinning reel, but the baitcaster is going to have a much easier time with it. All of my fishing combos set up for fishing with plastic frogs or heavy jigs are on baitcasters for this reason.
Precision Casting
While I suppose, with practice, you could get very precise casting any type of fishing rod, baitcasters have a well-earned reputation for being the most precise casting tools out there. This is because it is so easy to pitch and flip with a baitcaster. Here’s a good demonstration of how to do this (take note of how precise the cast is, and how little splash is made):
What are the Advantages of Spinning Rods?
Spinning rods have so many advantages over casting rods that it’s hard to see why people think so lowly of them. For many situations, they’re the better option.
Versatility
In my mind, spinning rods are actually more versatile than baitcasters. The right power & action spinning rod can throw just about any lure a baitcaster can. On the other hand, you’d be extremely hard-pressed to find a baitcaster that could handle throwing the types of light lures spinning rods can throw.
So, you basically have one type of rod that can handle everything vs. another type of rod that can only handle some things. It stands to reason that a versatile rod is going to be good for bass fishing, and spinning rods are clearly that.
Ease of Use
I’d rather have a spinning rod on a windy day than a casting rod. Even after years of practice, casting into the wind with a baitcaster is a pain. While spinning reels do develop wind knots and have their own issues, they’re just more enjoyable to use on windy days.
They’re also significantly easier for beginners. While you’re starting off, you’re far better off concentrating on catching fish instead of picking out backlashes. There’s a reason no one recommends starting children off on baitcasters.
Price
OK, so spinning rods aren’t necessarily any cheaper than their casting cousins, but it is significantly less expensive to get into a good spinning reel than a baitcaster that won’t leave you flustered. Baitcasters aren’t that easy to use in the first place, but this is exacerbated when your reel of choice has substandard braking systems, as most of the “budget” reels do. On the other hand, a Pflueger President is an inexpensive spinning reel that lasts for years. I know because most of my rods have one attached! Go ahead and check the best price on Amazon. Whatever it is, it’s going to be far less than almost all decent baitcasters.
Can You Throw Heavy Lures on a Spinning Rod?
You can absolutely throw heavy lures on the right spinning rod. The trick is finding a brand that can deliver. An easy shortcut is probably just to go with some saltwater rods, as there are plenty of saltwater spinning rods rated for considerably larger lures than the typical freshwater rod.
If you’re a purist, and want a “true” freshwater rod, then one of your better bets for tossing big lures and baits is going to be the St. Croix Premier series. This expansive set of rods includes spinning rods in a Heavy power, fast action set up that is ideal for throwing frogs and other large lures. I once reviewed the St. Croix premier fishing rod in detail.
There’s really no issue with throwing heavy lures on a spinning rod. The problem becomes the reel itself. You’re going to need a very large one to handle the heavier braid necessary when throwing frogs, for example. Again a saltwater reel might be just the ticket.
When Do I Prefer a Spinning Rod?
As I mentioned above, I use both spinning rods and baitcasters for bass fishing. When do I use what? Well, here’s what I prefer and why:
I Prefer Spinning Rods for…
Jerkbaits – I believe most people prefer baitcasters for these. I however like how the spinning reel hanging below the rod helps me get the jerks across crisply. It’s just a little bit more “oomph” to help out. To each their own, I suppose, but jerkbaits are such open water lures that you aren’t really losing anything using a spinning rod.
Shallow Crankbaits – Most people use baitcasters for crankbaits, but I find that I’m usually throwing shallow-running ones early in the year. Where I fish, this is often the windiest time of the year also. The wind and relatively small size of some of these crankbaits just makes it easier to use a spinning rod.
Plastic Worms – This is just a matter of preference, but I prefer the way a spinning reel balances while I’m working a worm. Perhaps it’s just a habit from my youth that I can’t give up, but I definitely prefer to use a spinning rod with my wacky rigged worms.
Drop Shot / Light Lures – Finally one that others will agree with, right? Drop shots are light tackle with light line much better suited for a spinning rod.
I Prefer Baitcasters for…
Spinnerbaits – I can make more casts with a baitcaster in less time than I can with a spinning rod. It’s simply a question of mechanics of the cast and what steps you must take. When I’m fishing spinnerbaits, I’m trying to cover a lot of water so it’s important to make as many casts as possible.
Deep Crankbaits – Once you start using larger crankbaits that displace more water and dive deeper, the cranking action of a baitcaster really comes in handy.
Jigs – I tend to make very precise, short casts with jigs and find baitcasters the better option.
Frogs – The winch-like action of a baitcasting reel is a must when pulling fish from heavy cover.
Buzzbaits – I find it easier to start reeling with a baitcaster. On a spinning rod, manually flipping the bail before reeling in a buzzbait can cause it to sink.
I use a little bit of everything on my fishing trips.
Conclusions: Yes, Spinning Rods are Good for Bass Fishing
To recap, spinning rods are just FINE for bass fishing. Don’t ever let anyone tell you otherwise. One of the main reasons that I started this blog was to try and be a voice of reason. It really bothers me when I hear people trying to convince beginners that they “need” all this fancy tackle. To me, a baitcaster is just that – fancy. Do I own them? Absolutely. Are they better for certain applications? Sure. Do you need to rush out to buy one to be a successful angler? Of course not. If all you have is a spinning rod, use it with a giant smile on your face. You aren’t missing out.
If you’ve ever had a chain pickerel flop while you were holding braided fishing line, you know how deeply braid can cut. After tending to your wounds, you might start wondering if braided line will damage your rod, or at least damage the rod guides.
If you ask around, you’ll find no shortage of people who will tell you that braided line once damaged their favorite rod’s guides. Early braided fishing lines certainly could damage older fishing rod guides, but newer braids (and rods) have been designed to avoid this. It’s not exactly in either manufacturer’s interest to have such a destructive fishing line, or delicate rod guides. As a result, modern braided fishing line is going to be fine for most fishing rods and their guides.
Why Did Braid Used to Damage Fishing Rods?
In the early to mid 1990’s, some fishing line manufacturers started using a material called kevlar in their braided fishing line. While this manufacturing process was celebrated for all the usual benefits of braid (reduced stretch, enhanced sensitivity, decreased diameter), kevlar was a very abrasive material that did not mesh well with certain line guides. At some point, people started to wonder, “why does my fishing line snap when I cast?” After some investigation it was observed that there were grooves in the fishing rod line guides which was causing damage to the line over time, and Kevlar was given the blame.
It seems that since that time, most manufacturers have abandoned kevlar (or at least the earlier versions of it) in favor of different techniques for making braided line, such as using gel spun polyethylene fibers instead. These won’t damage line guides as they aren’t as abrasive as the kevlar braids.
While manufacturers adjusted (no one wanted that press), the damage had already been done. As a result the internet is rife with stories of guys claiming that braid damaged their fishing rods. However, you can buy modern day braided fishing line and use it with confidence on modern day fishing rods. They won’t damage each other.
Modern braided fishing line won’t damage modern fishing rod guides.
What Braid Won’t Damage Fishing Rod Guides?
Any braided line that isn’t made from kevlar is going to be just fine for modern day fishing guides, but if you’re looking for a recommendation, I really like PowerPro braided line. I’ve been using it for years on all sorts of St. Croix rods and haven’t had an issue with it. It casts well, is durable, and stands up to every fish I’ve encountered. It’s also sold in giant spools of 1,500 yards so you can buy it in bulk. Since braided fishing line doesn’t go bad, I like to buy giant spools of it so I can get a good value. I use 20lb braid on most of my spinning rods, 30lb braid on most of my casting rods, and 50lb braid on my frog and jig rods for throwing around heavy cover.
I am a huge fan of PowerPro braided line. I’ve been using it for years and it has never damaged my fishing rods.
Best Rod Guides for Braided Line
As mentioned, so long as you aren’t using an older, kevlar-based braid, you shouldn’t have to worry about braid damaging your fishing rod or line guides. Regardless, if you are one of those in the “better safe than sorry” camp, In-Fisherman ran a story a few years ago called The Essentials of Ceramic Guide Inserts that will be of interest to you. In it, they examined the different types of material used to make fishing rod guide inserts. The article indicates that ceramic inserts are rated on their hardness. The harder the insert, the better it will withstand braid.
Good Ceramic Guide Inserts for Braided Line
That In-Fisherman article was a good starting point for my research. It mentioned five types of ceramic guide inserts that are commonly credited with being good for braided fishing line:
Silicon Carbide Inserts
Nanolite Inserts
Alconite Inserts
Nanoplasma Inserts
Torzite Inserts
I looked into these a bit more and determine what popular rods feature them. It’s clearly not an exhaustive list but you can see some notable names in there. As a comparison, I’ve also included a benchmark for aluminum oxide rod guides just to give you an idea of what types of rods use them (it’s usually the entry level offering for given manufacturer).
Again, any of these rod guides are going to stand up to modern braid.
What Else Could Have Damaged Your Rod’s Guides?
OK, so we know that a modern braid won’t damage a fishing rod, yet your rod guide is still damaged. What gives? Let me ask you a question: are you using your rod guides as a hook keeper? If so, stop. You should never use the rod guide (or at least the circle/insert part) as a hook keeper. Hooks, as you may have noticed, are rather sharp and pointy. They can easily damage rod guides if you aren’t careful. Once you get a little kink or scratch in them, it could cut your line.
Most fishing rods come with a dedicated hook keeper near the reel seat that you should use instead. If your rod doesn’t have one, you can buy one (just click on the photo below to go to Amazon to check them out). This is one of those good ways to spend a little money – it’s much better to have a proper hook keeper than to damage your rod guides.
Can Braided Line Damage Your Fishing Reel?
Braided fishing line won’t damage your fishing reel unless you have your drag improperly set, or attempt to free it from a snag the wrong way. If you have your drag set properly, no braid (not even kevlar) is going to have a chance to dig in against the line roller enough to damage it. There really shouldn’t be that much force placed on the line roller in the first place while you’re fighting a fish, as your rod should be absorbing much of the energy of the fish long before the reel can be affected.
The only way I could realistically see braided line damaging a fishing reel is if you got caught on a snag and tried to free it too forcefully using your rod. Braid can dig in against itself very easily when snagged, and if it digs in enough it might damage a less durable reel. When you get snagged with braid I highly recommend that you give it some slack and then wrap it around a heavy stick or paddle well past the rod and pull with that. Let the braid cut the stick, not itself or your rod (or your hand).
Conclusions
While older, kevlar-based braided fishing line was known for damaging fishing rod guides, manufacturers have adapted. Modern braided fishing line doesn’t damage modern fishing rod guides. Remember, neither line nor rod manufacturers would have been pleased to hear that their products were incompatible with one another. It’s just bad business. Both have made great strides the past 20 or so years to fix this early issue, and as a result, it’s fine to use braided fishing line – it will not damage your rod.
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During a lifetime of angling, you’re going to come to a point where you want to retire an old fishing rod. Perhaps you bought a new one that you like better, or maybe your old one broke. You might wonder what to do with your old or broken fishing rod. Before you throw it in the trash, consider some of the creative ways you can give these old rods new life.
Do Old Fishing Rods Go Bad?
There’s no need to get rid of your old fishing rods if they’re still working fine. Though heavy use can break down rods (and especially fiberglass ones) over time, a fishing rod doesn’t automatically go bad with age. If you’ve taken appropriate care of it throughout its life, it may just out survive you. I know I’m still fishing with rods I used 30 years ago as a kid, and I’m not the only angler who can say that.
With that being said, it’s not easy to keep any fishing rod in pristine condition. The mere act of using them exposes them to potential damage constantly. Every door or rod locker could potentially snap their tip, and each hook could scratch the blank while you’re clawing for the keeper with cold hands. When you get too excited by a big fish, it’s easy to forget about your rod and drop it awkwardly as you work to unhook a monster pike.
Some rods, such as fiberglass ones, have bonding agents that hold the glass together. If you used this to its full potential for a significant amount of time, it could weaken. It’s not uncommon to hear fishermen say that their old fiberglass rods just aren’t what they used to be for this reason. However, this just means the rods action is slightly different. That’s not to say it has “gone bad” – just that you might have to start using different lures or techniques.
What is the Life Expectancy of a Fishing Rod?
Many fishing rod manufacturers offer lifetime warranties on their products. Several even allow this warranty to be “no questions asked” in exchange for a high deductible. They wouldn’t do this if fishing rods weren’t expected to stand the test of time. While anything abused will break, a fishing rod that is properly maintained and stored will be fine for a lifetime. Again, I have several that I have fished with for over 30 years. There’s nothing wrong with them at all and now my kids are using them.
This does, of course, assume that the manufacturing process is a quality one. It’s not my place to disparage any manufacturer, so I won’t, but the reason I spend so much time raving about both Ugly Stik and St. Croix fishing rods is because I’ve found them to be exceptionally durable, and, in the case of St. Croix, often backed by a great warranty. This has not been my experience with every single brand I’ve tried.
Creative Things to Do With Old or Broken Fishing Rods
There’s no need to march to the garbage when your fishing rod snaps. There are several creative things to do with your old or broken rods.
Claim a Warranty
Before you do anything else with a broken fishing rod, you should see if it is under warranty. Many companies offer solid warranties even to second owners. I wrote an article about buying used rods with confidence that illustrates this point. While it might not be worth it for less expensive rods, if your prized possession breaks, see what the company will do for you first.
Attempt a Repair
If you’re handy, you could see if it’s possible to make repairs. As the video below that I’ve linked to shows, this is even possible if your blank snaps in the middle.
Fixing a Rod Tip
Amazon sells kits to repair fishing rod that you can use for on the water repairs. You’d just use a lighter to heat the glue in this kit and make sure you coat both the broken rod as well as the new tip with it before sliding it on.
Fixing a Blank that Breaks in the Middle
This is an interesting video showing you how to fix a broken fishing rod that snaps directly in the middle. He uses a dowel rod and generous use of epoxy and string to make the repair.
Spare Parts
If the rod is too far gone to repair, you can always break it down further and use it for spare parts. The line guides can be removed and salvaged for use on other rods. Further, cork handles and be ground down and used to fill in the handles of other rods for little touch ups.
Even if you aren’t comfortable parting it out, remember that others are. There’s quite a market on e-Bay for broken fishing rods (especially when they’re high-end), so before you toss your broken fishing rods, consider posting them on e-Bay to see if you can get a bite.
I’ve been getting into scale modeling a bit as another hobby I can’t afford. What I’ve noticed right away is how just about any “junk” becomes useful in this craft. I was downstairs today stringing up some Ugly Stiks when I noticed just how translucent their tips are. Considering they’re also quite strong, they’d be a great way to prop up model airplanes in a diorama.
Consider this photo below. This was my son’s Black History Month project this year. He used wooden dowels to get the planes up in the air. These of course stick out quite a bit. I’ll bet the tip of an Ugly Stik also would have done the trick and been less noticeable. Of course, the only problem with this is that Ugly Stiks are darn-near indestructible, so we’ll never get the chance!
A translucent rod tip would have been less noticeable than these wooden dowels.
I’m sure there are plenty of other ways to make good use of old fishing rods in scale modeling. For example, I’m already wondering if a foam handle wouldn’t make a great, lightweight, interior support structure…
Lawn & Garden
I have to say, a medium-heavy or larger rod blank would make a great stake for your garden. Indeed, the line guides would be very good places to tie off some fabric to keep your tomatoes growing strong. Depending on how tall you need them, you might need to connect two broken blanks together with a dowel, but you’d think this system would work quite well. Come to think of it, I hope my wife doesn’t read this. If she does, I think I just bought myself a new project…
Plow Reflectors
Fishing rod blanks are lightweight, flexible, and (if you remove the eye guides at least) unlikely to do any damage to something that walks into it. This would make them a pretty good use as a reflector during the winter months to help you avoid the lawn while you’re snow blowing. Just wrap that rod up in reflective tape, sharpen on end with a knife, and push it into the ground as you would with any other reflector.
Line Stringer
I once lost the top half of a 2-piece fishing rod, but rather than throw it out, I’ve put it to great use as a line stringer. I find it much easier to put new fishing line on a reel if it’s on this shortened rod than a longer one. It’s more convenient and can be done in tighter quarters. I’d keep a broken fishing rod around specifically for this purpose.
4-Wheelers Spider Web Catcher
I was mauled by a brown recluse spider last year, so any opportunity to not encounter one of these creepy crawlers is music to my ears. You can recycle old fishing rods by attaching them to the front of your 4-wheeler and using as a spider web catcher. Just place 2-3 old fishing rods vertically in front of your ATV to catch any spider webs before you eat a mouthful of arachnid.
Spider bites suck!!! If only I had a broken fishing rod to save me…
There’s a Lot of Life Left in Those Old Fishing Rods!
As you can see, there’s little need to throw out old or broken fishing rods. First, you can likely repair them. Even if you can’t, you can either use them for parts, or perhaps file a claim under warranty and get it replaced. Lastly, you can put old fishing rods to good use in a variety of crafts, decorations, and practical applications. I hope this article helped you think of a few ways to get some more life out of your old and broken fishing rods. If you have other tips or ideas, please leave a comment and share with our readers!
So, I’m one of those people that likes to buy things in bulk, and fishing line is no exception. Unfortunately, ever since I’ve become a father, I haven’t had quite as much time to use all that fishing line as I used to. Thus, I now have a large box filled to the brim with tons of spools of fishing line that’s just itching to see water. It does beg the question, does old fishing line go bad, or somehow “expire?”
After much research, I can report that braided fishing line can last nearly indefinitely, assuming it hasn’t been compromised. Fluorocarbon and especially monofilament, on the other hand, can break down or otherwise go bad meaning that you’re better off replacing spools every few years. Fishing line will degrade faster while on a reel, but line can even experience issues while in the box. Despite all this, many anglers (including myself) have been using “old” fishing line for years without any problems.Indeed, there is a stark difference between what various websites tell you and what the end users report on fishing forums.
Let’s discuss why fishing line goes bad, and what to do about it.
Where possible, I’ve tried to go right to the source. I found a few manufacturers who had information right on their website, which I’ve cited throughout this article. I also reached out to a few, but am waiting to hear back (I’ll update this article as I hear from them)!
While searching for manufacturer comments, I also found some blog posts on the topic which have helped inform this topic, especially when written by professional anglers or scientists.
I’ve also searched the forums. Fishing forums are some of the best places to get information when you have a question. While there are some posters who are sponsored, the majority of anglers are normal guys and gals like you and me who just know what works.
Finally, I’ve put in my own two cents. I’ve been fishing for over thirty years (and have some spools that aren’t much younger lying around, I’m sure)! What’s the point of writing this if I’m not going to stand on a soap (or is it old fishing line) box for a bit?
Why Does Fishing Line Go Bad?
Northern pike aren’t the only enemies of fishing line. It is also damaged by repeated use, heat, stress, tackle interference, knicks and abrasions, rod issues, the wind, backlashes, UV light, and tying knots. These issues can affect fishing line and make it go bad regardless of if its on your fishing reel, or still in the box.
General Stretching and Use
I had an old friend who once told me, “There’s only so many times you can bend a spring before it won’t spring back.” Fishing line is the same way. Monofilament line naturally stretches. It’s part of its appeal (or downside, depending on what you’re looking for). Berkley mentions that monofilament will stretch as much as 25% on a heavy hook set (source). However, just like that spring, it can only be stretched so much before it finally breaks. If you don’t believe me, just take a plastic band or anything else and keep pulling on it.
Some fluorocarbons are designed to have minimal stretch, while others are a bit more forgiving. The same concept that applies to monofilament will apply here. Repeatedly stretching anything will eventually wear it out.
Braid barely stretches, if at all. If you’re stretching your braid, something catastrophic is happening or your drag is set way too tight. While it won’t stretch, braid has another issue from use – it just gets worn out by friction slowly over time. You’ll see that it starts to fade as it is used more often, indicating that it has been put through the ringer.
Heat
The internet is full of different advice about this one. On the one hand you have many people arguing that heat is not good for fishing line. On the other, you have people trying to boil fishing line to reduce memory. If I’m putting my nickel down, it’s on the “don’t let fishing line get too hot” side of this argument. For one, while researching this article, I came across many reports of many people using fishing line that is decades old. Not one of them reported that they kept this line in a hot and humid place. All of them reported that it was kept somewhere dry and cool.
Stress
While fishing line is meant to fight fish effectively, it’s still quite the battle. The stress large fish put on line while jumping, diving, and making long runs will eventually take its toll. While this is normally fine for the line (it wouldn’t be sold for long if it wasn’t), if you use the wrong size of line for your drag or rod, you can overstress it and cause it to break. This is why weaker lines need to be matched with “whippy” rods like ultralights that will flex enough to compliment the line’s rating. If you put 2lb test monofilament on your frog rod, you’d have issues.
Tackle Interference
Do you use slip shot sinkers? Do you really think that crimping them onto your line is going to be good for it in the long run? These, and other types of tackle (such as the bobbers I so detest) that attach directly to fishing line are bad for it. If you’re using beads, bobbers, or any type of sinker that connects to the line, you need to consider the damage it is slowly doing over time and retie often.
These sinkers are handy, but crimp line by design.
Abrasions
Toothy critters, rocks, pilings, zebra muscles, wood, and random junk people toss in the lake can all scratch up your fishing line with tiny little imperfections. Sometimes these are obvious and visible to the naked eye from a few feet away. Other times they are small enough that you need to look very close or even run your finger down the line to inspect for damage.
Every little abrasion is a tiny little cut where a piece of your line you were counting on is removed. This is a bad situation. The line becomes weaker with every little kink and you can bet that’ll be the point of failure. If you notice abrasions you should retie immediately lest you lose the big fish of the day (and your favorite lure).
Rod Issues
Abrasions don’t always come from toothy critters. Sometimes, the culprit is your own fishing rod. Are you one of those “old school” anglers like my dad who insists on storing your fishing lures by hooking them to a line guide? Did you know that doing this can damage them and give them little scratches that can knick up your fishing line? Most rods have a hook keeper near the handle – use this instead.
Likewise, have you been fishing with kids or other amateurs (or are perhaps learning yourself)? Ever notice how they just love to reel their hooks all the way to the rod tip? Yeah – that isn’t doing any favor for your line guide there, either! Make sure you stop the hook before it gets that high or you could turn your rod tip into a line-cutting whipping stick.
Wind Knots & Backlashes
The simple act of casting poorly is going to cause issues to fishing line and make it go bad. It should be no surprise to anyone who has spent an hour picking through a birds nest or backlash that this isn’t great for the line. Wind knots are the same way. Both of these situations are basically contorting and pinching your line and reducing its strength and effectiveness.
UV Light
Monofilament line can be badly damaged by ultraviolet light over time. How badly you ask? Consider what Berkley (the manufacturer of what I consider to be the best monofilament line you can buy) has to say:
“Under normal circumstances, monofilament loses about 20% of its tensile strength for every 100 hours of exposure to sunlight.”
20% tensile strength is a scary figure. While it does seem pretty unusual that you’d have a situation where line was exposed to this much sunlight, this is a great reason for keeping your tackle in a dark room or rod box as opposed to outdoors.
In the same article, Berkley goes on to say that Fluorocarbon doesn’t have this same issues as monofilament. That’s not surprising considering fluorocarbon’s reputation of being much tougher than monofilament overall.
While there’s no reason to suspect that UV Light is going to damage braid, I do suppose it could be a contributing factor in why it fades over time. I’m a big fan of Power Pro braided fishing line, but I will say that it’s dark green color turns to light grey after using it for some time.
Tying Knots
An improperly tied knot can do considerable damage to fishing line. Unfortunately, this damage is often imperceptible to the naked eye. Have you ever seen a fisherman lick his knot before he cinches it down? This is done in an attempt to lubricate the line and prevent heat and friction from damaging it while the knot is tightened.
Even if you tie a knot perfectly well, it is still going to degrade the line’s strength. Think about it. Tying a fishing knot basically means smushing that line even smaller than it already is, and putting great force on it. Another consideration is that not all knots are the same, as the “Knot Wars” on YouTube have demonstrated time and again. Here’s a look at one of their videos. You can find others through their channel.
Trying to answer this question has been very challenging in that there is not a ton of “primary source” information out there. I took what I could find in the horse’s mouth, so to speak, and then supplemented it by experience gleaned from various fishing forums (specifically, posts in walleyecentral.com, thehulltruth.com and bassresource.com). These are, after all, filled with anglers like you and me. They also are more or less “peer reviewed,” or as much as any internet post can be, given that everyone has their chance to weigh in and call out baloney.
What Did the Manufacturers Have to Say?
I checked the websites of several manufacturers to try and find some information on this. Emailed inquiries have been sent, but haven’t been responded to as of posting. As for their websites, few had much to go by. I checked out the websites for Berkley, Stren, Seguar, P-Line, spiderwire, Sufix, Sunline, Strike King, and Yo-Zuri. Of these, only Berkley and Seaguar offered any information.
Berkley‘s The Science of Line & Why Respooling Matters blog post cited earlier, had information helpful to this article, but it mostly touched on line that’s already on a reel. In their article, Berkley recommended that tournament anglers respool before every tournament, while enthusiasts could respool every season.
Seaguar had a very helpful FAQ that touched upon many of the issues in this article. However, they were vague regarding how long fluorocarbon lasts before it goes bad. They simply said it lasts longer than mono.
What Did the Fishing Forums Opine?
While I won’t claim to have exhaustively searched through every post on earth, I did read through plenty of them. Here’s some general themes that quickly emerged:
People overwhelmingly support that monofilament fishing line goes bad the quickest. However, there were multiple anglers (and you can chalk me up in this) reporting using the same spools of monofilament for years (sometimes decades) without issues.
Of those people who were using the same line for decades, most reported keeping it in a dark place. One guy had spools of fishing line in an Igloo cooler for 30 years that he still uses. The line that I still use likewise was kept in a closet or basement its entire life.
Many folks report braid lasting indefinitely unless you really beat it up catching fish. I agree with this. The only time I change braided line is when the spool is running low. Since I tie directly to lures most of the time, I’ve never had the chance to see braided line to go bad.
As for fluorocarbon? Most agreed that this line creates manageability problems due to taking a set (or succumbs to a bad backlash) long before it has a chance to go “bad.” So, fluorocarbon fishing line can go bad in the sense that it becomes even harder to manage (it has such high memory that it isn’t easy to begin with).
Does Unused Fishing Line Go Bad In Storage, or Expire?
I note there’s no expiration date on any of the spools in my basement. The cynic in me believes that if fishing line manufacturers were able to get away with it, it would be in their best interest to slap one of those expiration labels on every spool they sold. What better way, after all, to get line hoarders like me to pony up for a new spool?
The fact that there’s no expiration date lead me to believe that unused fishing line does not go bad or expire. All the same, we all know what assuming something does. So I set off on an adventure into the merry internet to see if I could find the answer to my hypothesis.
What is the Shelf Life of Monofilament Fishing Line?
I tried reaching out to Berkley to ask them how long monofilament fishing line will last. They’ve yet to reply (and I’m a little anxious to get this post out) but I did find a 2007 post from walleye central where a member confirmed that he had asked Berkley this same information and was told that nylon monofilament has a shelf life of 2-3 years.
How to Tell How Old Fishing Line Is
The rep further advised that one can tell how old their fishing line is by the code on the front of the spool. If you take a spool of Berkley Trilene and look at the white circle on the spool, you’ll see three numbers. The middle number is the age of the line.
The middle digit represents what year the line was manufactured. In this case, 2014.
I Did a Little Science Experiment
So, as we can see from the photo above, this line was manufactured in 2014. It is now 2021, 7 years later. We saw earlier that Berkley states that their monofilament line has a shelf life of 2-3 years (or at least they did in the 2007 email described earlier). Thus, there should be significant problems with this line, right? Perhaps I should revisit how I’ve just added this line to all of my kids fishing reels in preparation for this season?
Well, I did a little test. I don’t have a fancy scale to do this with. No way to measure the force or even be precise. Indeed, I don’t even have a set of weights that adds up to 6lb. The best I could do was 5lb. What I will say, however, is that this line held up just fine with a small 5lb dumbbell dangling below it. There was no issue. So at the very least, over 80% of its strength has been retained after all these years. Perhaps a few ounces more would have been fine. Perhaps the full pound. All I know is that the line I’ve spooled onto my kids reels a few days ago is staying on them, and I’m not losing a wink of sleep.
What is the Shelf Life of Fluorocarbon Fishing Line?
I have to say, I agree with the folks on the forums on this one. Fluorocarbon is going to develop setting issues, like memory, long before it “goes bad” by sitting on the shelf. Then again, I find fluorocarbon to be a pain to deal with in general. Anything that is going to exacerbate this is going to be magnified in my eyes.
There’s really no reason to suspect that the line itself would suddenly deteriorate if stored in a cool dark place. However, given the memory issues, I do find myself replacing my drop shot and crankbait rods (which I spool with fluorocarbon) each years.
What is the Shelf Life of Braided Fishing Line?
Unless you’re infested by mice or other rodents that are going to chew through it, braided fishing line can last forever. It has no memory to worry about, meaning it doesn’t matter if it spends most of its life on the spool. It also isn’t affected by UV light (not that it’ll get much on a shelf). There’s really no reason to suspect that this line would ever go back and after repeated scouring on the internet, I’m perfectly confident buying the big spools in bulk, knowing it’ll take me years to go through them.
Tips for How to Store Your Fishing Line
Given that we’ve discussed the ways that fishing line is damaged, the best way to store it so your fishing line won’t “expire” is to avoid as many problems as possible! Let’s walk through it:
Since we know that UV light can damage monofilament fishing line, let’s keep it somewhere dark.
Given we’re aware that heat is bad for fishing line, let’s store it somewhere cool.
As we know line doesn’t like abrasions from teeth, let’s keep it away from the family hamster.
If you follow these three steps, your fishing line should last much longer.
Ideal Places to Store Fishing Line Include
A cool, dry boat locker (remove it on hot sunny days).
A basement.
A closet.
While researching this article, I noted that Field & Stream featured a short post about tossing old spools of fishing line in the freezer! My wife is already mad enough about all the worms in the fridge, so I don’t think I’ll go there, but leave me a comment if you try it out and find it works!
I have no intention of throwing any of this unused fishing line out. It all works fine, hasn’t gone bad, and doesn’t feel expired to me.
Does Fishing Line Go Bad on a Fishing Reel?
Yes, unused fishing line can go bad on a fishing reel. Indeed, it goes bad considerably quicker than it would sitting on shelf. All of the issues that could make fishing line go bad on a spool are going to be amplified when its on your fishing reel. Here are some of the more common reasons why fishing line will go bad on a reel.
How to Minimize Line Memory
One reason your line is even more likely to have problems on your reel is because it is wound that much tighter. Go grab any spool of line you have lying around. Note how much larger of a circumference that spool is than most (freshwater at least) fishing reels. There’s a good reason for that: it’s to minimize the negative effects of line memory.
Memory is the way that some fishing line will coil, or retain the shape of the spool. Fluorocarbon is notorious for this. The more tightly the line is wound, and the smaller its circumference, the worse memory becomes. Thus, lines left on fishing reels for extended periods are going to have the best chance of forming the worst memory.
Another Reason Line Goes Bad on Fishing Reels: Stretch
I would guess that very few of us leave our fishing lures dangling free form our rods when we store them. most of us probably make good use of the hook keeper to keep our lure in place. This only works if the line is tight. Tight lines place pressure on them. It stands to reason that any kind of extended pressure on a fishing line can’t be good for it in the long run, which is another reason fishing line doesn’t last as long once you put it on a spool.
Exposure to the Elements
Unless your new rig is a display piece only, chances are that any line that is tied on the reel is going to have significantly more exposure to the elements than some sitting at home in a box. Any salt that accumulates on the line, either from fishing in salt water or just tossing your rods in the back of a pickup truck on a northern, salted road, is going to have a chance to sit there and work its black magic. Additionally, it’s far more likely that your line will be exposed to UV lights while it is on a reel than in a box.
How to Tell If You Should Replace Your Fishing Line
There are several ways to tell if your fishing line has gone bad and should be replaced but most of them boil down to a simple inspection. Elite Series professional angler Scott Martin wrote a great article describing when to replace your fishing line while it is on the reel. He has a ton of money on the line, literally, so he changes it much more frequently than I do. All the same, it’s at least refreshing for him to say he’ll leave it on some rods that he doesn’t use as much.
I imagine those of you out fishing routinely like me are already following his advice. Every time I catch a fish or have a bad snag I take a close look at my fishing line and inspect it for abrasions or knicks. I do this by running my fingers down across it – any roughness whatsoever tells me that there’s an issue.
Also, when you’re casting and you feel some sort of resistance where there shouldn’t be, it’s usually a sign that you have a knot somewhere in your line. As even the best of intentional knots reduce line strength, it should come as no surprise that I lack confidence in my line when I find one of these. I’ll pull it out past the knot and retie.
How to Know to Replace Old Fishing Line Unused on the Spool?
This is a little trickier. First, you need to subscribe to the theory that something might be wrong with it in the first place. As we’ve seen, the jury is very much out on that as many fishermen (myself included) feel that most lines will last indefinitely in storage. However, if you don’t want to chance it, you’ll need to inspect it somehow.
The best way to do this is simply to take a length of it, tie to to a solid object, and then give it a good pull from the other end. Does it seem to act as you would expect it to, or did it break too early? This is very much a “gut check” but one worth doing, I suppose. My little science experiment earlier in the article also works well. Just get a weight that matches or comes close to the line test and see how it does. This should give you the confidence to keep that old spool of unused fishing line for years to come, or terrify you and chuck it.
One last little experiment I’d suggest is purposefully taking a length of line and putting a small bend in it. Just fold it in half once and put in a little crease. Now try the same tests and see how easily it snaps. Remember, by putting the crease in, it SHOULD snap easier, but the question is – was it TOO easy? Don’t let this freak you out too much, but if the line has gotten so brittle that the slightest imperfection weakens it to catastrophic failure, imagine what any imperfect knot will do.
How to Get More Life Out of Your Fishing Line
Fishing line is expensive so anything you can do to make it last longer is going to be a major plus. Here are some tips for how to get more life out of your fishing line.
Protect it from the sun. Store it in a dark place away from UV light when not in use.
Use a line conditioner to keep it nice and supple while it is on the fishing reel.
If you’re fishing in saltwater, make sure you thoroughly rinse the line on your reel before putting it away.
Remember that you don’t need to replace the entire spool. Use a Double Uni Knot to attach some fresh line on, while leaving the old for backing. Note: don’t do this if you fish for species that might spool you.
If your faded braid is bothering you, remember that a permanent marker can be used to touch it up and make it look like new. Just make sure its only discolored and not frayed.
Tie directly to the lure rather than using snap swivels. The mere act of retying will ensure you go through line at a moderate pace. This will allow you to cycle to fresh line without having to entirely respool by using step #4.
Remember that braid has no memory. This means that you can take the fresh, unused underlayer from one reel and use it as the top layer on another.
I was able to find this article on fishing line care from Elite Series pro Aaron Martins where he mentions that he will “regularly fish with line that is three or four years old.” This is refreshing to hear from a pro when many of them state they exchange line routinely. Then again, he clearly goes to great lengths to take care of his fishing line and keep it in top condition.
Uses for Old Fishing Line
I’ve found old fishing line to be quite useful for a number of tasks around the house. Even if you think some of your unused fishing line has gone bad and don’t trust it for fishing, you can put it to one of these many great uses.
Fishing line is very useful for scale modeling. Some instructions specifically call for its use for the radio wire on various aircraft. Further, it can be used for detailed work on any vehicle that has various cables.
It is outstanding for hanging Christmas ornaments. If you have an old ornament that lost its string, or want to make new ones with your kids as a fun craft, fishing line of all types comes in handy.
Likewise, old fishing line can be used for hanging pictures. Granted, if you’re worried that its tensile strength has been reduced by age, you’ll want to take it easy with which pictures you choose to hang.
You can use old fishing line for making jewelry such as bracelets with beads. Just use a heavier pound test to make sure it will hold up to being taken on and off for years.
It can be very nifty for repairing eyeglasses (source).
While I’m not so certain that I’d want to use old line that has been in the water for this, fishing line can be used as a cake cutter. It seems that there is some benefit to this as the lines are cleaner and this avoids transferring one type of frosting onto another and making a mess.
You never know what people will come up with, but using fishing line to cut a cake obviously works great as seen in this video!
Disposing of Old Fishing Line Ethically
If you’ve decided that you just can’t trust your old fishing line any longer and need to replace it (and don’t want to make use of it elsewhere), you need to throw the old stuff out sensibly and ethically. Discarded fishing line is horrible for wildlife. At this point we’ve all seen the YouTube videos of good Samaritans rescuing various wildlife entangled by it. It is absolutely your responsibility to ensure that you will not kill or injure a creature by discarding your line. Here are some tips to help.
Recycle Old Monofilament Line
Monofilament line can be recycled, but not just by anyone. You can’t toss it into the recycling bin at your home, unfortunately, but the good news is there are several entities that offer free recycling programs for old fishing line.
Bassmaster has an absolutely phenomenal post where they list the different fishing line recycling resources available. There are listings for programs in the United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. I’d like to highlight two of these resources in particular.
Boatus.org has partnered with Berkley in a recycling program for monofilament fishing line. They have a post where they provide videos and other information for how you can build your own line recycling station at your favorite waterway. All you need to do is commit to stopping by once in awhile to empty the container and to mail it to:
Berkley Recycling 1900 18th Street Spirit Lake, Iowa 51360
Likewise, the Monofilament Recovery and Recycling Program is a Florida-based program which offers opportunities to get involved by building your own recycling bins as well as joining relief and clean up efforts. If you live in the Sunshine State, consider getting involved.
Other Places to Recycle Fishing Line
If you don’t have a fishing recycling bin near you (and haven’t gotten around to volunteering to collect one yourself yet), several tackle shops are willing to recycle old line for you. You’ll often see bins in the entryway of major retailers who sell fishing tackle. Just call around and you should be able to find a shop near you. Of course, you also could just mail your old fishing line directly to Berkley Recycling and they’ll take care of it.
Cut Your Old Fishing Line Before You Toss It
I haven’t seen any recycling programs for braid (please email me if you know of one). This means that for now at least, you’ll need to throw it out. It’s very important that you cut it into small pieces before you do so. If you leave it as a long string it is very likely that a bird or other animal will be caught in it and die. Just wrap the line around your hand to form a loop and then cut that loop on both ends. The 3-4″ length that is left will be much safer for all involved.
It should go without saying that this should be done with any fishing line, not just braid. I’d even cut it before you put it in the recycling station. For one, it’ll save space and allow other anglers to utilize it. Secondly, if something goes wrong (maybe a bird starts pulling it out for a nest or something), you won’t endanger wildlife. Considering it takes fishing line 600 years to decompose, don’t take a chance of some getting loose in a long enough strand to do damage. A length of fishing line can kill a number of turtles in 600 years.
Conclusions
You’d think after a 5,000+ word article I’ve spent days researching I’d be more decisive, but I just can’t be. All that I can say for certain is that fishing line on a reel, exposed to the elements, and used regularly will go bad quicker than unused fishing line stored on the spool in a cool, dark place. I’m not at all certain that you have much of anything to worry about with using that old fishing line stored in your basement, aside perhaps from excessive line memory. Braid, certainly, could be trusted for years and years.
My best advice would be to test out your line a bit before you rely on it to land your next lunker. If it is supple enough and manageable, I wouldn’t lose any sleep over continuing to use it. Then again, that might be easier said than done with a tournament on the line!
The question, “Will fish bite rusty hooks” is one I’ve been asking myself a bit lately. As you might have guessed, the reason I’m asking this question is because I’ve had quite a few fishing hooks rust this year! I guess I didn’t dry my gear off well enough and now I’m paying the price. So, the first question is if a fish will bite a rusty hook. If not, the next question becomes if I should try and clean my rusty fishing hooks or simply throw them away.
Will Fish Bite a Rusty Hook?
I see absolutely no reason why a fish wouldn’t bite a rusty hook. The mere fact that they’re biting any hook is enough to convince me of this. Fish are clearly not as bright as we sometimes pretend they are. Further, many different tactics out there (such as power fishing) rely on fish making a “reaction strike.” This means the fish is simply smacking the lure without really putting much thought into it.
If you’re fishing any kind of lure that is moving fast, chances are fish will have no time to notice the hook is rusty. They’ll simply bite the rusty hook just like any other. On the other hand, if you’re fishing something particularly slow, I suppose the fish will have a chance to size things up. Are they particularly likely to care? I doubt it, but I suppose you never know.
What Are Some Problems If a Fish Bites a Rusty Hook?
There are some legitimate concerns about fish biting rusty hooks. First and foremost, has the hook’s strength been compromised? Rusty metal is often less strong than when it is pristine. Indeed, if the rust has gotten very deep, the hook could be considerably weaker. Many fish hooks (especially the smaller ones on crankbaits and drop shots) aren’t that strong to begin with. Anything that compromises the strength even further risks the loss of the fish.
A second issue to consider is whether that rust has dulled the hook’s point. On any given day, not that many fish are going to bite your hook. When one does, do you want to have the best chance of hooking them, or not? Considering all the time and energy serious anglers put into sharpening their hooks for the perfect hookset, it makes very little sense to cast out gear you don’t have confidence in.
Are Rusty Hooks Dangerous?
I’ll bet right now you’re thinking about tetanus, aren’t you? I certainly was when I was mapping out this article and researching it. Low and behold, I guess that rust itself doesn’t actually give you tetanus. Nonetheless, the bacteria that does cause tetanus could be on your dirty, rusty hooks, and they, like nails, are the perfect delivery system to inject that bacteria deep into your body with an errant cast.
How Do You Get Rust Off a Hook?
If you’re going to attempt to clean rusty fishing hooks you’ll need to use some sort of abrasive. A small rotary tool like a Dremel would work quite well, or you could just use some medium grit sandpaper and small block of wood. You’ll need to scrape and brush away the rust until your hooks are shiny.
If this isn’t working, you can use an acidic of some sort. Apple cider vinegar or lemon juice can help you loosen up the rust. The common feature is the acidic. I’ve also seen some folks recommend simply placing hooks in vinegar overnight and then wiping them off (source). I think I’d probably shy away from commercial rust removers meant for home improvement projects. I don’t know that fish would like their scent.
Is It Worth Cleaning Rusty Hooks?
In all honesty, unless you catch the rusting process so early that it wipes off easily with some of the methods described, you should probably just throw the hooks out and start over. The amount of time it would take to clean something that may already be compromised simply isn’t worth it. Chalk it up as a cost of going fishing and buy some new, sharp hooks.
When you think about all the time we spend trying to keep our fishing equipment in tip-top shape, the idea of using a structurally-weakened fishing hook is a bit ridiculous, frankly.
Unfortunately, sometimes throwing out the rusty fishing hook means throwing out the lure it’s attached to.
How Can You Keep Fishing Hooks From Rusting in the First Place?
Well, the best way not to have your hooks start rusting is to not let them get wet, but that’s not very practical for fishing gear. However, rust forms after metal has been exposed to water or moisture for an extended period. Let me tell you – the typical tackle box is an outstanding place for this to happen.
To help prevent rust, do the best you can to dry your gear off before you put it in the tackle box. The best option would be to leave it out a bit so it can dry before you plop it in. If this isn’t an option, at least leave the lid open so the lure can breath and hopefully dry out a bit while you continue to fish.
I don’t know that I’d go so far as to claim that any fishing hook is truly “rust proof,” but there are certainly some brands that have taken steps to make their products more “corrosion resistant.” For example, many Mustad hooks are made from stainless steel, which is much more rust-resistant than many other metals. Likewise, some VMC coastal hooks are designed to be corrosion-resistant as well.
Preventing Hooks From Rusting From Salt Water
Salt water especially is going to cause your hooks to rust quickly. While I don’t do a ton of saltwater fishing, when I was researching my article about WD-40 it became clear that many people use this product to keep their gear in good shape.
Here’s a useful YouTube video that gives some advice. In short, the author suggests rinsing your lures in freshwater as quickly as you can, and then drying them. Further, you need to keep moisture from forming.
How to Safely Throw Away Rusted Fishing Hooks
It’s not fun to get jabbed by any fishing hook, much less a rusted one. Be considerate of everyone who might encounter your garbage and do what you can to avoid injuring them. Good advice would be to keep your rusty old fish hooks in one place until you have a few of them, and them popping them in a coffee can before tossing them. You might be able to put them in an aluminum can and throw it into recycling, but I’d check with your local waste management centers to ensure this won’t cause trouble.
If you want to throw out fish hooks without using some sort of container, you still have a duty to ensure they’re safe. The best way to do this is by cutting them up a bit with some wire cutters so they aren’t likely to jab someone. This is especially important for treble hooks that can easily injure onlookers as they “stand up” rather than lying flat as a single hook will. If you’re going through the trouble of cutting them up, you might as well snip off the barb as well. Just make sure you wear safety glasses while doing this as the last thing you need is a rusty little hook point flying into your eye.
Conclusions
Try as we might, we will all, at one point or another, have some fishing tackle that rusts out on us. As far as I can tell, a fish probably won’t be afraid to bite a rusty hook, but if the hook is too far gone, it might snap instantly. If you catch the rusting quick enough (and don’t have tournament money on the line) you can always see if you can clean them up. Personally, I wouldn’t bother. I’d toss the rusty hooks out and go buy some fresh ones. You should be changing out your hooks every so often, anyway, and having a few rust out might just be the excuse you need to do this.
Fishing rods can be quite an investment, so you’ll want to maintain and store them appropriately. Not everyone has a dedicated, heated “man cave” where they can store their fishing rods. Instead, many people have to store their fishing rods in a garage or boat. The question is, should they, or will storing a fishing rod in your garage or boat damage the rod?
To put it plainly, you have to do what you have to do. All the same, if I was going to store my rods for any length of time, I’d take them out of the boat and get them inside, even if that meant putting them in the garage. Storing fishing rods in your boat full time is OK if you use them frequently, but things can go south in a hurry if you don’t take them out frequently. On the other hand, there’s really no downside to storing fishing rods in your garage if that is your only option.
Is A Cold Garage A Bad Place to Store Fishing Rods?
Considering there is a whole niche of this great sport called, “ice fishing,” I think it’s fair to say that fishing rods can handle cold temperatures. Granted, there has to be a point where this won’t be true. Still, it’s hard to imagine that an enclosed garage is going to get cold enough to really damage a fishing rod. Certainly, you wouldn’t expect any issues while the rod is simply being stored there. If ever, you’d encounter the problem after the rod was suddenly flexed.
With that said, if a 10lb northern pike doesn’t break a fishing rod when you’re out ice fishing in super cold temps, why would storing fishing rods in a “cold” garage cause problems?
Is Exposing Rods to Heat Bad for Them?
I’m not so certain that heat won’t damage fishing rods. You have to consider how they are built. Many fishing rods incorporate glue in their construction (source). Glue and heat don’t work very well together. Rod blanks also have considerable resin in them, which also isn’t going to do well with heat. Consider just how hot a car can get in the sun. I wouldn’t want to leave anything I care about in a locked car in summer. It’s just asking for trouble.
I don’t think you’d ever get to a point where your garage was hot enough to cause issues. On the other hand, a rod locker on your boat or especially your car could definitely cause problems. If you don’t believe, me, toss a $4.00 pack of soft plastics on your dash some sunny day and come back to it later. Now imagine that pack was your $400 fishing rod.
Is It Bad to Store Rods Horizontally?
If you’re looking for rod storage options, most rod holders and racks offer either a vertical, or horizontal option. If your rods are taller than your storage space, it looks like horizontal is the way you’ll need to go! Even if you have the height necessary, horizontal rod holders offer some very convenient options such as this nifty product that allows you to hang rods horizontally on the ceiling where they are completely out of the way. There’s even a product that attaches to the roof of your car, which is a great way to store fishing rods on a long trip.
Even though these products exist, some people still wonder if it’s OK to store rods horizontally. Granted, it does seem like storing fishing rods horizontally in a garage or car could place a bit of stress on certain parts of the rod. All in all, you should be fine, at least with graphite rods. For those of you who remember the old fiberglass ones, sometimes they’d “set” a bit if left stressed for awhile. If you’re using fiberglass rods, you might want to take them off now and then to give them a chance to “stretch.”
If you need more reassurance, just remember that almost all fishing rod lockers in any boat are going to store the rods horizontally. There seems to be literally millions of fishing rods out there that are stored horizontally with no issue.
These rods take up quite a bit of floor space. Perhaps I should hang them vertically from the basement ceiling?
Can You Leave Fishing Rods in Your Boat All Year?
It is a real pain to constantly move your fishing rods from your home into your boat, so it is tempting to just keep them in your lockable storage lockers on the boat. Assuming you live in a safe location where you don’t have to worry about thievery, this is fine if you use the rods often. However, there are several things that can go wrong if your rods aren’t in routine use. I learned this the hard way when my daughter was born, and I didn’t have time to go fishing for several weeks. Here’s a few issues to consider:
Mold
Mold is a legitimate issue for rods stored in a boat, at least if the boat is stored outside. Very few “dry” storage lockers live up to that name in a deluge. Slight imperfections in how a parked boat is leveled can also cause issues. When my daughter was born, I was living at a home where I had to park my boat with the bow angled slightly down. I didn’t want to put the jackstand up on cinder blocks as I was worried if some kids started messing around, someone could get hurt. Anyway, this meant that there was no way for water to escape from the bilge if I failed to tarp the boat well. Well, after a few weeks of water sitting in my boat in the August heat, I had quite the clean up project on my hands!
If you do need to store your fishing rods in your boat, try your best to prevent rainwater from accumulating. Also, make sure that when you get back from a fishing trip, you leave the lockers open for a couple of hours so everything has a chance to dry out. This will also help prevent any hooks on your rods from rusting.
Animals
Mice love boats. They are like 5-star hotels for these little critters during the winter. As much as I trust Bounce dryer sheets to keep mice out, I’ve never set up cameras and couldn’t tell you if it works for sure (although I think they do, since I’ve stopped having issues). In any rate, if you meet the mouse who doesn’t mind these sheets, they’ll be creeping and crawling all your rods, and potentially chewing on your handles and line.
Heat/Cold
All the issues we’ve discussed with potential issues from heat and cold are going to be amplified sitting outside in a rod box. While it’s somewhat sheltered from the elements, your rod lockers might not be completely enclosed. Indeed, many aren’t in the hopes that the mold issue above can be mitigated. The same moving air that helps allow rods to dry can also allow very cold air in. Further, a closed box underneath a vinyl floor is going to get HOT. Will it get hot enough to do some damage? That’s for the scientists to answer, and all of us to ponder.
Can You Leave Fishing Rods Outside?
Not everyone has a garage to keep their fishing rods in. All the same, I wouldn’t recommend leaving fishing rods outside.
First, they’ll be far more exposed to extreme temperatures than they would be in a garage. All bets are off when you start talking about the temperature swings that mother nature can provide.
Secondly, you have to worry about accidents. It’s possible that the wind might blow something into your fishing rods, or knock them over. They aren’t going to do very well if even a small tree branch lands on them.
Finally, anything left outside is a prime target for thieves. Depending on where you live, this might be something you need to take into consideration.
Conclusion: Go Ahead and Store Your Fishing Rods in the Garage
Everything I’ve found suggests that your fishing rods will be just fine in a garage. At worst, you might have to worry about some spiderwebs if you don’t use them often. Assuming your garage locks and is enclosed, your fishing rods will be fine.
They’ll also likely be just fine in your boat, but you need to keep a closer eye on them. If you’re keeping them on the boat, it’s likely because you’re using them too often not to. Just keep that up and don’t go for a long time without checking in, as a misplaced tarp could spell huge problems quickly if water gets in.
Regardless of where you store your fishing rods, you’re fine storing them horizontally if that’s the best fit. Just make sure you use your fiberglass rods now and then so they won’t “set” (although, honestly, I imagine that would take considerable time). All the same, it’s something to consider and keep an eye out for!
I hope you found this article helpful. If you have any other questions on the topic please feel free to email me, or leave a comment. I”ll respond as soon as I can.
Sometimes when I put on my little cape and scour the internet looking for pressing fishing questions to answer, I find weird things. I’m going to chalk this article up as one of them. I’ve seen some people ask, “Will fishing line melt or burn?” Well, yes. Emphatically yes. Fishing line can melt and burn. But, if your fishing line is about to melt or burn under anything approaching normal use, you probably have waaaaay worse problems to deal with.
I’m reminded of an old The Far Side comic where two fishermen are marveling at the arrival of a nuclear holocaust and deduce that they no longer need worry about fishing regulations. If you are doing anything sensible with your fishing line, such as putting it on reels and casting them, you don’t need to worry about your fishing line melting or burning. You’re even fine leaving them in the rod locker for extended periods. No melting should occur. You only run into trouble when you try to get creative with finding solutions to problems, such as trying to boil fishing line to reduce its memory.
Let’s dive into this a little bit more.
Why Is This Even a Question?
I ask myself this a lot sometimes when I search for article topics, but here at least it makes sense. People usually want to know if fishing line will melt or burn because they’re trying to think of ways to reduce fishing line’s memory. Memory refers to the way fishing line will retain its shape when coiled around a fishing spool. When a line with high memory leaves the spool, it comes off with a spiral. This leads to line twist, monster tangles, and eventually reduces the strength of the line. It’s no wonder people are looking for a way out of this situation. Even so, the solutions leave me scratching my head…
The Three Main Types of Line
Just to level set – there are three main types of fishing line: Monofilament, Fluorocarbon, and Braid. The latter is basically a fabric so I’ll cut to the chase: it’s not melting and it will burn like any other thread. This article is going to focus on monofilament and fluorocarbon which are both made of types of plastic.
Of the two, fluorocarbon is going to have much worse memory than monofilament. If you’re using monofilament and it’s giving you trouble with memory, it’s likely time for a new spool. I prefer Berkley Trilene XL – it has very little memory and is great for using on kid’s fishing rods (where, believe me, you don’t need any other reasons for a tangle).
If you need to use flurocarbon, I’d search for the most pliant you can find. I pay a bit of a premium for high-quality Seaguar products like Invizx as it is one of the softer ones out there. Even with this, I still use a line conditioner as I’ll discuss further below.
That candle will ruin all of these fishing lines.
Can You Boil Fishing Line to Reduce Memory?
The internet is rife with forum posts asking if you can boil fishing line to reduce memory. I can’t imagine why this would be a good idea. There may be some merit to warming it with hot water under the faucet, or letting it soak for a bit. This can warm it up a bit and help reduce memory without damaging your line or spool (source). Boiling however is just a bad idea. There’s a few things to consider:
Your Fishing Line Could Become Weaker If You Boil It
There’s not a ton of science out there on this topic, but the folks at Berkley (the fishing company, not the university) did write an interesting article talking about why it’s so important to respool. Though they spent far more time talking about the effects of sunlight on fishing line, their article did make mention of heat caused by friction a few times, and how this too damages line (source). Given that the folks at Berkley mentioned that heat damages line, I don’t know why you’d take a risk by exposing it to the considerable heat of boiling water.
Even if your fishing line didn’t melt or burn if you boiled it, I wouldn’t try this. I can’t stop you from trying it, I suppose, but I’d chalk up boiling fishing line as one more way to make it snap. If you don’t want fish to keep breaking your line, try something else!
You Could Damage Your Spool
If you’re planning on boiling your fishing line, you’re probably planning on doing so while it’s on some sort of spool. Most likely, you aren’t trying this when you first put the line on, as it is still supple at that stage. This leads me to infer that you’ve found this post while staring at that spool from your fishing reel with the coiled line on it. If you’re wondering if you can just dunk the whole thing in boiling water and be OK, eh… I wouldn’t recommend it.
Again, with the caveat that I’m not a scientist, and there are limited resources out there to draw on, let’s apply some common sense. Even if the fishing line itself wasn’t damaged, some spools may have components that don’t react well to being boiled. Consider tiny, precise little elements of the drag system. How will they hold up? Does your reel have one of those “braid ready” spools with the little rubber lines? I wonder how well they’d resist melting. It’s not the kind of thing I want to find out!
Can You Put Fishing Line in the Oven or Will It Melt?
This is a bit of a secondary question. I did a little research to see if people were curious if you could put fishing line in an oven or if that would burn it. By and large, this question comes up more on cooking forums than fishing forums. It seems some folks are asking if you can use fishing line to tie up various concoctions in your oven (think pinwheeled steaks). NO. Do not do this. Fishing line is made of various plastic compounds. These can melt if exposed to heat. They can then be absorbed into your food. Do not use fishing line to tie up your food for cooking!
Save the Science Experiments and Buy Line Conditioner Instead
Look, I’m never going to fault someone who tries to save a few bucks and make fishing less of an expensive hobby. All the same, I have to tell you, spare your line the science experiments. Seriously, think this through. Your fishing line is the critical connection between you and the fish, right? I imagine you probably check it for nicks and frays routinely? You might even strip a few feet now and then to prevent breakoffs, right? Ok. So then why on earth would you take the entire spool and plunge it into boiling water? Why evenrisk that your fishing line might melt? Why not just buy a dedicated product that will keep it nice and supple? Do you really want to take the chance that something could go terribly wrong?
There are multiple fishing line conditioning products out there that you can choose from that are an infinitely better idea than boiling your fishing line to try and prevent memory. While you’ll have to check Amazon for the best price at any given moment, they cost less most spools of fluorocarbon. They also can be used on multiple setups and spools and will last quite some time. They are, by far, a better option. Here are some of my favorites and links to where you can find them on Amazon.
Of these, I’ve used Kevin VanDam’ offering and found it did a good job of keeping my fluorocarbon line supple (I’ve never felt the need to use it on monofilament). With that said, I’ve heard great things about Ardent Line Butter too. That’s not to say the other products aren’t good – I just don’t have experience with them nor have I heard others rave about them. But, it might be worth checking out the reviews and seeing what works for you. At some point I’ll pick up the others and review them for you, but for now, I leave you to brave that challenge yourself.
Conclusions
Fishing line will not melt or burn unless you’re really trying. That doesn’t mean it can’t be microscopically damaged and cause you to lose the next big fish. While I’m no scientist, and might be completely off base, I’m not willing to risk it. Why, after all, invest so much time and energy into this hobby and then do something (such as boiling your fishing line) that just seems like a bad idea?
Go to the links above and buy a can of line conditioner. Save the science experiments for science class. You never know, your personal best trophy bass could be on the line.
Fishing is a fun hobby to get into, and given the current state of the world, with everyone seeking socially distant ways to unwind, it will only become more popular. If you’re new to the sport and just starting out, it can be overwhelming to try and weed your way through all the tackle out there to find the best fishing lures for beginners. Whether you’re looking for good fishing lures for bass, pike, or panfish, this article will help you cut through it in no time.
Note that while I have written an article about what the best fishing lures are for children, this article assumes that the beginner is an adult, so there will be some slight variations. Ready? Then read on for my take for the best fishing lures money can buy.
What Makes a Fishing Lure Good for Beginners?
In my mind, a good fishing lure for beginners should have three traits:
A bite should easily be detectable;
The lure should catch a variety of species;
The lure must be fishable with a basic, beginners fishing rod.
Easy Strike Detection
One of the toughest parts about learning how to catch fish is learning when they’ve bit. Certain lures, like jigs, are much more difficult to detect some bites with. This is why bass jigs, though immensely popular and a great lure for largemouth bass fishing in general, won’t be found in my list below. Instead, it will be extremely obvious when a fish bites any of the lures I list below. This will allow a beginner to gain some confidence before moving up to some fishing lures that are hard to use, and take a bit more skill to realize a fish is biting.
A Good Fishing Lure Will Catch Many Species
I have absolutely no idea where you’re reading this from, as FishingFather has readers all across the planet (and thank you for that!). What I do know is that regardless of where you’re fishing, the lures on this page will catch the species in your neighborhood. All of these recommendations are great lures for largemouth bass or crappie large enough to hit them. This makes them some of the best fishing lures to use, because you have a good chance of catching anything in the lake. About the only caveat to that is that some of these lures aren’t particularly “tooth-proof” so if you’re fishing for northern pike or other fierce critters, you may want to look at the lure and ask yourself, “Is there any chance a pike is biting this without cutting my line?”
Good Beginner Fishing Lures Must Work With Good Beginner Fishing Rods
There are certain lures (like plastic frogs) that are notorious for needing very specialized equipment to throw. “Very specialized equipment” does not belong in the same article as “good fishing lures for beginners.” Accordingly, you won’t find me raving about some of the better largemouth bass fishing lures like plastic frogs here. These lures require very stout rods and heavy fishing line that you probably don’t have sitting in your garage. Everything fishing lure and bait that I recommend could be thrown with a standard, medium power Ugly Stik.
And the Winners Are?
Now that we’ve talked about what makes a great fishing lure for a beginner, let’s get into what I feel are the best lures you should buy. I thought we’d have a little fun by having a countdown of sorts with this post, so here they are, the best fishing lures for beginners, with #1 being the best overall (and all on one page without annoying click bait)!
10. Devil’s Horse
This topwater is easy for beginners to use.
Number 10 on my list might surprise a few people. It is a topwater lure and not one that gets a lot of press, either. Some people think that topwater lures are challenging for beginners, but if you can get over the extreme urge to yank your lure away the instant a fish strikes, you can catch a lot of bass, pickerel, pike, crappie and bowfin with a Devil’s Horse fishing lure.
A Devil’s Horse is one of the easier topwater lures to use because all you need to do is cast it out to a likely hiding spot and wait. You see all those circles that are moving away from it in the water after it touched down? Keep pausing until they are gone. Then, give it just the slightest little “twitch” and hang on. Fish cannot resist this. I think they look at these things and wonder what they are and where they came from when they first touch down. Then, the little twitch drives them crazy and makes them think it’s something barely alive and struggling.
There is absolutely no mistaking when a topwater lure has drawn a strike – you’ll see and hear a giant splash that will leave no doubt. The only trick is making sure the fish actually has the lure in its mouth before you pull back – this is one of the few times in sports where slower reflexes pay off! As stated, the lure catches a wide variety of fish and is easily used on standard gear. All of this makes it a great first topwater fishing lure for beginners.
If you follow this link it’ll take you to Amazon where you can buy the Devil’s Horse. Make sure that you change the little tab over on the right to get the color you want. Personally, I prefer yellow/black striper as I’ve had the best luck with it over the years, but bullfrog works pretty well too.
9. Grub or Marabou Jig
This marabou jig was one of the first lures I learned on.
I mentioned that this article would not discuss “bass jigs.” These are not the same thing. A bass jig is typically large and heavy with a bulky rubber skirt designed for catching large fish. They are meant to be crawled or hopped along the bottom of the lake, and every little rock or twig you encounter will feel like a fish until you get the hang of things. There’s so much “false noise” that they aren’t the best fishing lures for beginners.
Grubs or marabou jigs, on the other hand, are excellent fishing lures for novices. They are usually much smaller than bass jigs, and aren’t usually worked along the bottom. Instead, you work them back to you by swimming them slowly through the water, “hopping” them every now and then to make them dart and flutter.
They are small enough that you can catch darn near anything on them (they are a great fishing lure for trout) and their thin wire hook makes it likely that a fish will be hooked. It’s also quite obvious when a fish bites, because any lure you’re moving will suddenly and deliberately STOP when a fish comes and nails it. Finally, this is a lure that works well with any beginning fishing rod. Simply put, it checks all the boxes.
Marabou jigs come in a few different styles, but I always had the best luck with red and white models like the ones you can purchase here.
8. Buzzbaits
There’s no mistaking a buzzbait bite.
Buzzbaits are another lure that might surprise people simply because they’re a topwater choice, but they’re one of the best and easiest topwater fishing lures to use. All you need to do is cast them out and then reel them in. Their buzzer does a fair job of keeping the lure up above the water where it needs to be. Fish will come in and annihilate these lures early in the day and late in the evening making them fun to throw. Since they are top water lures, there is no mistaking the strike.
The ease with which they’re utilized as well as how obvious strikes are makes them a good fishing lure for beginners. The only issue is that (as with other top water lures) one must take care not to pull them back from the fish when they jump to hit it but before they have a chance to grab them.
There are plenty of different manufacturers who sell buzz baits in various different styles. While I have caught some big fish on some of the more flamboyant, double-bladed offerings, I’d recommend that you stick to something simple like this War Eagle buzzbait from Amazon.
7. Jerkbaits
Once you get the cadence down, a jerkbait is surprisingly easy to use and catches many fish.
I would only put a treble-hooked lure like a jerkbait on a list of best fishing lures for beginners who are adults. If you’re reading this for your kids, skip this section (and the next 2) as these lures can be dangerous.
While jerkbaits aren’t on most lists of good fishing lures for beginners, that’s a bit of a shame as they’re easy enough to use. Models like the x-rap (my personal favorite) are easy to cast and retrieve, and fish love them. Jerkbaits are also a better choice during times of year like early spring when lures lower down this list won’t perform quite as well. This makes them a good fishing lure for new anglers starting the hobby in the beginning of the spring.
Jerkbaits are a great fishing lure for largemouth bass and smallmouth bass. A size 10 x-rap has been responsible for more than a few 100 fish days for me on Lake Champlain. Smallmouth bass especially love these lures. Bronzebacks tend to favor long and thin lures instead of the bulkier crankbaits, I find.
Jerkbaits are all about cadence. You cast them out and then work them back in a series of, well, “jerks” interspersed with pauses of different lengths. The trick to catching fish is to figure out what cadence they want on any given day. Once you do, you can light them up.
6. Lipless Crankbaits
Lipless cranks are as easy as chuck and wind, making them good fishing lures for beginners.
Again, I would only put a treble-hooked lure like a lipless on a list of best fishing lures for beginners who are adults. If you’re reading this for your kids, skip this section (and the next one) as these lures can be dangerous.
Lipless crankbaits make a good fishing lure for beginners because they’re easy to use — all you need to do is cast them out and retrieve. Sure, you can vary this up now and then and give little “pops” with your rod, but a straight old cast and retrieve will catch fish.
If you’re new to fishing, using a technique that involves a lot of casting and retrieving is important. This is called “power fishing” and it is significantly more enjoyable than watching a bobber twitch. Any lure that gets you moving and casting is a good thing because it makes the sport more enjoyable. As to which one to buy, you can’t go wrong with the original.
Lipless crankbaits are one of the first lures I tie on each year because they work well even when the water is cooler. My first big largemouth bass of 2021 came a few days ago on one of these.
One downside of lipless crankbaits is that their treble hooks will snag literally every obstacle they can. If you’re fishing in heavy cover you might consider the squarebill crankbaits discussed below.
5. Squarebill Crankbaits
Squarebills have all the benefits of lipless cranks with an added bill that deflects off cover.
Squarebill crankbaits offer most of the benefits of lipless ones with a few key differences. The bill on the front regulates how deep the lure will dive, and helps it deflect off cover that would snag a lipless crank.
These lures make great choices for beginning anglers because they catch fish when simply cast and retrieved. They’ll also catch pretty much any species large enough to hit it (and sometimes just sunfish who are large at heart). Finally, they work well during all times of the year. The only thing that makes them a bit “iffy” for beginners are the treble hooks, which can make any errant cast a trip to the emergency room.
I’m a bit of a broken record at this point, but to remind you once more, I would only put a treble-hooked lure like a lipless on a list of best fishing lures for beginners who are adults. If you’re reading this for your kids, don’t tie on a crankbait, as these lures can be dangerous.
4. Swim Jigs
Swim jigs can get places spinnerbaits can’t.
As with many of the lures on this list, swim jigs are good for beginners because they’re simple to use. Again, you can cast them out, and reel them back in. While variations of this retrieve can be productive, the tantalizing nature of their rubber skirts flowing on retrieve is usually enough to do the trick.
While swim jigs look like traditional “bass jigs,” they are far easier to detect bites with. It is obvious when a fish hits a moving lure, so you won’t mistake a fish for leaves. Use swim jigs in the same areas you’d fish a spinnerbait. Indeed, you can toss them into slightly denser weedgrowth because their lack of blades means they’ll come through vegetation cleaner.
Just remember that the lack of blades also means they’re less protected from teeth. I find I lose many swim jigs to pickerel that a spinnerbait would have survived.
3. Spinnerbaits
Spinnerbaits make outstanding fishing lures for beginners.
A spinnerbait makes a great fishing lure for any beginner who is learning to cast. As with many lures on this list, they work with a cast and retrieve. There’s no rocket science to them!
Spinnerbaits are great search lures because they’ll call up all the active fish. Largemouth bass, chain pickerel, northern pike, and bowfin all have a hard time resisting spinnerbaits.
These lures are best worked over large weed flats that have several pockets or channels to run your lure through. Cast spinnerbaits parallel to a weedline, or in a pocket, and work it back to you. This gives any fish hunting along that weedline a chance to size it up and strike.
While note quite as weedless as the swim jig above, a spinnerbait stands a decent chance of making it out of cover without getting stuck. This, coupled with the way it catches large fish and is easy to cast and use makes the spinnerbait a top three fishing lure for beginners.
There are many spinnerbaits to choose from. In the past, I’ve recommended Terminator spinnerbaits, and I still use them frequently. However, as of late I’ve added War Eagle spinnerbaits to my arsenal and really appreciate how true they run. You can buy them here.
2. Drop Shot Minnows
Drop shots are my favorite lures for fishing with kids.
A drop shot is one of my favorite fishing techniques when I bring kids along. Indeed it is “the” technique I preach as the only one a parent really needs to know. The reason it is not #1 on this list is because you have to weed through a number of small bites to get to a big one, and I’m willing to bet that most adults aren’t going to be as satisfied by a bunch of sunfish as kids.
Drop shots work so well that I often use them as a “search bait” when I come into a new area with cover I want to work over. While they aren’t as effective for searching out a large flat, if you’re trying to find out if there are aggressive fish in precise locations, a drop shot will tell you nearly instantly. Indeed, if I don’t feel at least little fish pecking at it, I know they (and bigger fish) likely aren’t around. I have that much confidence in this lure.
Drop shots are so simple to tie and use that they’re featured in my article about the few skills you need to start fishing. If you need help learning to tie one, check out that article. For now, know that you’ll need a sinker of some sort, a hook small enough for a fish to bite, and a lure of some sort.
Drop shots are another one of those lures that will catch every fish in the lake. They are a great fishing lure for every species in that you can use artificial lures, or the best bait you have for trout, largemouth bass, catfish – whatever you want! Because you can use these with live bait or artificial minnows, a drop shot rig is one of the best choices out there.
My Favorite Drop Shot Lure
My favorite lure to use on drop shot setups are Berkley Gulp minnows. I swear their marketing team was on to something when they say they outfish live bait. There have been plenty of days where I can attest this was true! While they come in less expensive plastic bag packs, I recommend picking up one of their larger offerings that comes in a dish filled with scent. These work much better. You can buy them at Amazon.
1. The Best Fishing Lure for Beginners: The Plastic Worm
Behold the humble plastic worm – the best beginner fishing lure of all time.
At long last, we’ve reached #1 – the best fishing lure for beginners: the plastic worm. I don’t, however, mean just any plastic worm. No, I mean the Yamamoto Senko. This soft plastic works so well wacky rigged that it is the only soft plastic I’ve restocked my tackle box with for this year. That’s right, folks. I made it through the entirety of Black Friday, Christmas, and now Spring Sales Events without buying another type of worm but this.
There’s a simple reason for that — there’s no need to buy anything else. A wacky-rigged Senko is about the easiest way I’ve yet found to catch largemouth bass, especially in the spring. All you need to do is hook one on, make a cast to where you think a bass might be, and hang on. Nature will take care of the rest.
Not only will this lure catch bass, it will also take more than its share of pickerel. This makes it a good choice for beginners who want to have an opportunity to catch larger fish than perch and other panfish.
I hope you found this article about the best fishing lures for beginners helpful. While I did a descending countdown for “theatrical suspense reasons,” I’d definitely suggest that you work your way backwards on this list. The first three fishing lures you should buy are a pack of Senkos, the elements necessary for a drop shot rig, and a spinnerbait. These are some of the best fishing lures for largemouth bass, crappie, and (in the case of the drop shot) even trout. With these three items you’ll go from novice to respectable in no time flat.
If you’d like to shorten the learning curve further, consider buying my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide. While it is designed primarily to teach you how to fish so you can take your kids out, there’s nothing stopping you from skipping that second step.
Have a great day for fishing,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
