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1 Piece vs 2 Piece Fishing Rods: Which is Better For You?

If you’re new to fishing you might wonder about the differences between a 1 piece vs 2 piece fishing rod including which is better, and why. The answer isn’t that complicated.

One piece fishing rods are superior to two piece fishing rods in all regards except mobility. One piece fishing rods are more sensitive, durable, and less likely to have issues while fighting fish. The best rod manufacturers also tend to exclusively manufacture one piece fishing rods. IF they offer a two piece variety, the selection is very limited. The only reason you’d buy a dedicated two piece fishing rod is if you had little room for them in your car or boat and needed a rod that can store easier.

1 piece fishing rods are better vs. 2 piece fishing rods
All of these fishing rods are 1 piece, and for good reason.

The Few Main Advantages of 2 Piece Fishing Rods

While I feel you you should really spend your money on a 1 piece fishing rod vs. a 2 piece rod, there are some advantages of a 2 piece fishing rod. The advantages of a two piece fishing rod basically boil down to ease of storage, reparability, and price.

  • Storage & Transportation. A two piece rod breaks into two short pieces. This means it’ll fit into the trunk of your ol’ Hyundai Elantra with the missing headlight with ease. You don’t need to get creative with how or where to put a two piece rod as they’ll fit pretty much anywhere. This could make them ideal for someone who lives in an apartment or has a small car.
  • Reparability. If you break a one piece fishing rod and your manufacturer won’t replace it under warranty, the repair is probably going to change the rod for the worse. Often, if the tip is damaged the only way to repair it is with a replacement tip that shortens the rod, changes its action, and decreases its sensitivity. With a two piece fishing rod, just get a replacement part for the part you broke, and you’re good as new. Some manufacturers will even mail you this.
  • Price. This isn’t really an apples to apples advantage of a 2 piece fishing rod vs. a 1 piece rod, but two piece rods tend to be less expensive. Unfortunately, the reason for this is that they tend to be of lesser quality too. So, while “yes,” your 2 piece rod will be less expensive than the typical 1 piece, it will also be “worse.” Still, with inflation doing its thing lately, price can matter in a big way.

More Obscure Advantages of 2 Piece Fishing Rods vs. 1 Piece Fishing Rods

While storage and price are the two main advantages of a two piece fishing rod, there are a few more obscure perks you may not have thought of.

  • 2 Piece fishing rods make it easier to spool line. The main reason I keep a 2 piece fishing rod around is to help me spool line on reels. While I suppose you could go and buy a dedicated line spooler, it’s easier, in my opinion, to just toss the reel onto a two piece fishing rod, take off the top, and go to town.
  • If you hate buying things on the internet, you might have more options. Most of the big box stores like Wal-Mart and Dick’s Sporting Goods are going to have more 2 piece fishing rods vs. 1 piece fishing rods for sale. You might have an easier time finding that particular power or action you’re looking for on any given day. On the other hand, much as with price, while there are “more” rods that doesn’t mean the surplus is any good!

The Critical Disadvantages of 2 Piece Rods

Although 2 piece fishing rods have some advantages like storage and price, their disadvantages are overpowering. Here are some of the critical disadvantages of a two piece fishing rod:

  • Less durability. Because you’re adding a connection point between the two halves of the rod, you’re creating a weak point that can break. Couple this with the fact that most (though not all) two piece fishing rods are of lesser quality than their one piece counterparts, and you can have a rod that’s more likely to break, even if it can be easier to fix when it does.
  • Decreased sensitivity. Because the blank is not one unified structure, a 2 piece fishing rod is generally going to be less sensitive than similar 1 piece rods. Granted, there are plenty of techniques out there where this doesn’t matter (basically everything to do with power fishing), but for some, like jigs, it can make a big difference.
  • More things to go wrong. A two piece fishing rod comes apart into two pieces. This seems obvious enough. The problem is the act of taking the fishing rod apart and putting it back together creates wear and tear. Over time, this joint can crack and break. There’s also the possibility that you don’t connect the two parts (called “ferrules”) together fully, which could cause them to come apart while you’re fighting a fish. Finally, if you don’t line them up perfectly, it can impact casting distance or contribute to line twist and other issues.
  • A lack of high-quality options. While there *may* be an argument that there are “more” 2 piece rods than 1 piece rods out there, there aren’t more that are of a high quality. Most of the top tier manufacturers do not offer a 2 piece option throughout their entire lineup. While you can find a few, you’re going to have a much better chance of finding the type of elite rod you want in a 1 piece vs. a 2 piece fishing rod setup.

Advantages of 1 Piece Rods

There are enough advantages to a 1 piece fishing rod over a 2 piece rod that to me, it’s a no brainer to buy them so long as you have the space. Here are some of the more important ones.

  • More sensitive. While it’s not strictly necessary for every type of fishing, one piece rods are more sensitive than two piece fishing rods. This is because the blank is one unified shape and not broken into two pieces. This makes it easier to feel vibrations, taps, and bites. Having said that, you’re only going to notice or need this in certain situations (example, fishing jigs or such).
  • Durable. One piece fishing rods tend to be more durable than their two piece counterparts. The same system that allows vibrations and taps to be felt evenly throughout the rod allows stress to distribute evenly across it too. This makes it less likely to snap, even if when it does, it’s more of a problem.
  • Less things to go wrong. With a one piece rod, you don’t have to worry if you’ve put it together all the way or aligned it perfectly, so there’s less chance of things going wrong, like the rod falling apart while you’re fighting a fish.
  • Less tangles between rods. While a minor concern, placing a number of broken down 2 piece rods near each other in a rod box is a great way to tangle them. You’re less likely to tangle single piece rods though it also isn’t impossible. Also, fishing rod sleeves require a rod to be built – you can’t use them on a broken down 2 piece rod.
  • Wider range of high-quality options. There are more high-end fishing rods offered in 1 piece than 2 piece. If you’re after a particular brand and model, 1 piece is probably your best bet.
  • Better resale value. Most of the guys who are going to buy a high-end rod, new or used, are going to be looking for that sensitivity that only a 1 piece fishing rod brings. Thus, they tend to be easier to sell and will have higher resale value. Of note, I wrote an article once about how to buy used fishing rods with confidence that you might enjoy.

The Few Disadvantages of 1 Piece Rods

Even though I feel 1 piece fishing rods are superior vs 2 piece rods in most ways, they do have a few disadvantages.

  • Damage can be catastrophic. While damaging a two piece fishing rod means you’re replacing the half you broke, if you damage a one piece rod, you’re replacing the whole thing. Even if you only damage something like the tip, repairing it can mean shortening the rod and changing its action, or decreasing its sensitivity. Further, I have had a one piece rod snap on me right in the middle once and there is no salvaging that. If you break a one piece rod, that’s usually it, so get one with a good warranty.
  • Take more space. One piece rods take up more space in your boat or car than a two piece fishing rod would. Further, the trend seems to be to make fishing rods longer and longer still, so this could become an issue for more anglers. If you have a small car or rely on public transportation, one piece fishing rods can be problematic. Further, if you have limited space where you live, it can get dicey, though there are several good storage options that can keep rods out of the way. Here’s an interesting way to hang rods from your garage ceiling (or living room, if your wife will let you)!
  • Generally more expensive. 1 piece fishing rods tend to be more expensive vs. 2 piece fishing rods, but this is because they tend to be of a higher quality too. This means this disadvantage isn’t really “apples to apples.” In the rare instances where you can find a high-quality 2 piece, it too will command a hefty price.

When Should an Angler Buy a 2 Piece Fishing Rod

I know I’m talking a bit of smack about 2 piece fishing rods in this article, but I promise you, they catch fish. For some of you, a 2 piece fishing rod is probably even ideal vs. a 1 piece.

2 piece fishing rods are just fine for people who don’t take fishing that seriously, don’t go that often, and/or don’t have that much space. If you live in a city and have a small car or rely on public transportation, they are clearly your better option. Likewise, if you’re just starting out, or raising kids who are, a 2 piece fishing rod is going to be much less expensive and will meet your needs just fine.

You’re also good to go with a 2 piece rod if you’re fishing something like spinnerbaits or topwater lures that don’t leave any doubt when a fish hits. “Sensitivity” is only important for techniques like jigs and soft plastics where it can be hard to tell if a fish is biting, or if you’ve just hit a rock. If your budget is a concern, you might load up on 2 piece fishing rods for your power fishing applications that don’t require the sensitivity.

Which Type of Angler Should Buy a 1 Piece Fishing Rod

Frankly, I think everyone that has the space for them should buy one piece rods. While I suppose the argument can be made that your average weekend warrior isn’t going to “need” them, they’re just a pleasure to fish with and true heirlooms you can pass down. They also have significantly better resale value and often better warranties if something does go wrong.

Competitive anglers especially would do well with 1 piece fishing rods vs. a 2 piece. If money is on the line, you want to have the advantages that the one piece offers over the two piece rod. While I commonly coach that not all techniques out there (e.g. spinnerbaits) “require” a sensitive rod, the fact is, there are techniques that do. Why give up that sensitivity if you don’t have to?

Finally, anyone who wants a “high end” rod is going to want to buy a 1 piece fishing rod simply because there aren’t many “high end” 2 piece rods out there. If you enjoy the sport and want to “treat yo self,” 1 piece rods are where it’s at.

My Favorite 1 Piece Fishing Rods

My favorite fishing rods are all 1 piece vs. 2. I only own the 2 piece rods that I inherited from dad growing up. Most of them are Ugly Stiks and they’ll do the trick. However, when I put my own hard-earned money to the task, I’m grabbing a 1 piece fishing rod, and it’s going to be made by St. Croix.

I know some guys enjoy having different types of rods by different manufacturers so they can mix and match. I prefer to purchase all of mine from the same. The reason is that the power and action rating of fishing rods is not standardized. What one company calls a “medium heavy” another might consider “medium” and so on. By sticking with one manufacturer, you avoid the issue of accidentally buying something inadequate for your needs.

I did an in-depth review of St. Croix rods in this article about the best fishing rods out there. If you haven’t tried the brand, take a look at it as I review several of their models.

Are There Any High End 2 Piece Fishing Rods?

While you’re going to be very limited in what “high end” 2 piece fishing rods you can find, there are a few manufacturers who make a few of them. Even my favorite brand, St. Croix Rods, has a spattering of 2 piece rods for sale. Most of them are in their lower-level offerings like their Triumph line, but even this is a high quality product compared to most 2 piece rods on the market. However, if you’re really willing to break the bank, you can also find 2 piece fishing rods in St. Croix’s vaunted Legend Elite lineup. The only question is why on earth would you?

Conclusions

While I hope this article was helpful, I also hope it didn’t bum you out too bad if you only have two piece fishing rods, or if they’re all you can afford. While a 2 piece fishing rod does have significant disadvantages vs. a 1 piece offering, I will promise you something: the fish don’t care. As long as you’re out there on or near the water having fun and catching fish, it doesn’t matter. Frankly, if you’re the target audience of this blog, you’re just starting out fishing with your kids. They’re going to smile regardless of what rod catches what fish, so enjoy!

Thanks for reading,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


Foul Hooking Fish: What It Means and If It’s Legal

Not that long ago, there was quite the scandal when a gentleman formerly renowned as a “big bass specialist” was accused (quite compellingly, and I’ll leave it at that) of foul hooking fish. But what is “a foul hooked fish” exactly, and why was this such a scandal?

Foul hooking, or “snagging” is when you hook a fish anywhere but it’s mouth. In most states, it is illegal to intentionally attempt to do this. In many states (and in most professional and amateur fishing tournaments) it’s illegal to keep any fish that is foul hooked, even if the foul hooking was accidental.

Let’s explore the topic some more so you don’t get accused of foul hooking fish purposefully and land yourself in hot water.

First Thing’s First

I just want to make it clear – I frown on foul hooking fish intentionally. I don’t view it as sporting or challenging and it’s not something I recommend you rush out and try. Not only is it flat out illegal in many places, but it’s also unnecessarily cruel to the fish, in my opinion. The guy who was in the center of that scandal got everything he deserved, as far as I am concerned.

Having said that, it is still legal in some areas, and for some species, and part of my charge here on this website is to help you out with catching fish by any legal means. While it’s not the way I choose to fish, it’s really not my place to judge how you legally use the fishing license you paid for. Even so, my intention in this article is to educate you both on what foul hook fishing is, and to try to convince you to avoid it and catch them in a more sporting way, even if foul hooking a fish is legal in your home waters.

Fair enough? Then read on.

How Do People Foul Hook Fish?

Where it is legal (and that is rapidly shrinking), folks try to foul hook fish where they are congregated in a tight area. This makes sense since you aren’t really trying to attract a fish to your hook, but to snag them with one.

Usually, folks will choose a “sticky” hook like a treble hook weighted with some sort of sinker to allow for long casts. The lure is then aggressively retrieved through the water with a series of hooksets and a fast retrieve. It can look very similar to the retrieve of a jerkbait, without the jerkbait!

treble hooks stand up at all times, making them more dangerous than single hooks.
A weighted treble hook tends to be angler’s (or, in many cases, poacher’s) rig of choice for snagging fish.

Does Foul Hooking Hurt Fish?

Yes, foul hooking hurts or at least injures fish. You’re stabbing them with a hook in a place they aren’t normally poked. The process is indiscriminate, and you have no way of knowing if you’re about to jab them in an eye, fin, gut, or gill. I really can’t stress enough how bad of an idea this is for the fishery, even if it is legal.

Foul hooking is essentially wounding a fish in an area they aren’t met to be wounded. While you could make an argument that any hook is going to hurt a fish, much of their prey species have spines that are just as capable of jabbing them, and do (frequently) in their mouths. So at least being jabbed in the mouth is somewhat “normal.” Foul hooked fish, on the other hand, are the exception and it can be catastrophic.

Even if the entry wound doesn’t look that bad, removing it could badly injure a fish. For example, a fish foul hooked through the tail fins might not seem mortal, but what if you rip the tail to shreds trying to remove the hook? Chaos!

Can You Tell If You’ve Foul Hooked a Fish If It’s In the Water?

If you fish long enough, you’ll foul hook a fish or two by accident. You’ll have a pretty good idea it happened, too, as you might have a giant fight on your hands. This is because you can’t easily turn the head of a fish you haven’t hooked in the mouth! I’ve foul hooked a few carp in my life by accident and they are significantly harder to land than one hooked in the mouth.

Is Foul Hooking a Fish Illegal?

An overwhelming majority of states have outright outlawed snagging any sort of game fish and the few that still allow it have significant exceptions (for example, it’s usually confined to very specific species and very specific areas). Many more will allow rough fish to be snagged, but you’d better be darned certain what fish your state considers “rough.”

Mississippi is the only state that currently allows snagging of fish without regulation (other than a closed season). Here is the law as written:

Snagging (taking of fish through the use of the handheld pole and attached line with one single or one treble fish hook no larger than #2) for fish is allowed statewide. Snagging is closed on waters noted in #3 of this regulation during November 1 through May 31. Snagged fish are those that are hooked in any other part of the body except the mouth/head, including, but no further back than the gill covers.” (source).

Always, always, always consult your CURRENT fishing rules and regulations and remember that they do, on occasion, change from year to year. Also, bear in mind that there probably isn’t great public support for snagging fish, and the press it has gotten in recent years (such as that scandal I mentioned) make it likely to have even less in the future. I wouldn’t be surprised to see more states outlaw the practice completely.

It Can Be Illegal to Keep an Accidentally Foul Hooked Fish

Even if you accidentally catch a fish by snagging it, it might be illegal to keep. For example, Vermont law states: “3.3 A person shall not take any fish pursuant to subsection (3.2) unless it is hooked in the mouth. Any fish taken under subsection (3.2) that is not hooked in the mouth shall be immediately released pursuant to 10 V.S.A. § 4602.” (source).

You’ll want to check your own state’s regulations and possibly consult your local game warden if you are unsure about the letter of the law.

Is a Fish Hooked on the Outside of the Mouth Considered Foul Hooked?

Now this is a great question. Sometimes when you’re fishing with a treble hook lure such as a jerk bait, a fish will clearly commit to attacking it, but won’t quite get the lure in its mouth before getting stuck. In this case, is the fish foul hooked, or is it a legitimate catch? In short, this varies. You’re going to need to check out your local fishing regulations, and they could change at the whim of the legislature, so make sure you check each year.

If you’re a tournament angler, you can’t stop there. You also have to check the rules for your tournament, as they differ. For example, the Bassmaster Elite Series has this to say about if a fish hooked outside the mouth is foul hooked:

“When visually fishing for bedding bass, to be counted as a legal fish, each bass must be hooked
inside the mouth. With the fish’s mouth closed naturally, you must not be able to see where the
hook point enters the fish for it to be considered hooked inside the mouth.” (source).

Note that they make the distinction for visually fishing for bedding bass.

Major League Fishing makes the same distinction:

“All bass caught while sight-fishing must be hooked inside the mouth and immediately shown to your co-angler or pro for verification.” (source). 

While these two national tournaments are fairly consistent, you should always check your local regulations.

How to Avoid Foul Hooking a Fish?

Look, you’re accidentally going to snag a fish from time to time and there’s not a lot you can do about it. Sure, you could use lures like spinnerbaits or circle hooks that make foul hooking fish very unlikely, but it still could happen under the right conditions. If it does, remove the hook gently and release the fish as safely as possible.

As long as you don’t go too crazy with the hook removal, fish will usually be fine if you accidentally foul hook them. There’s no need to kill them or “put them out of their misery” unless they’re clearly not going to make it – fish are a resilient bunch. Just remove the hook with as little force as possible an get them back into the water as fast as possible so they can start to heal.

What About that Fish Scandal I Mentioned?

To be completely honest, while I read all about the scandal I haven’t kept up with the aftermath, if there were legal consequences, or if charges were beat. I also note that the original article from SDFish.com no longer seems to exist, though I’m unsure why. Anyway, I’m not looking to stir anything up I shouldn’t. However, for those of you who are so inclined, here’s an article from bassmaster.com talking about the scandal. Give it a gander, and try to avoid being the subject of one yourself someday!

In Case I Haven’t Been Perfectly Clear…

Look folks, even where it’s legal for fish to be foul hooked, it’s still unsporting and dumb. I and countless others have put so much time and effort into helping you all catch fish in conventional fashions – please stick to them. It’s much more sporting and fun to actually hook a fish in the mouth than to snag them, and it’s better for the fish. While I suppose an argument can always be made that jabbing a fish anywhere with a hook is “bad” it’s absolutely less bad to stab them the same place a perch spine does than in their eye, gill, fin, or stomach.

I really hope this article was educational and helped you understand why foul hooking fish is such a bad idea. If you have any questions please feel free to drop me an email and we can talk it through. Also note that if you’re really not sure how to catch a fish without snagging it, the books below my signature would be a great help!

Thanks,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


How to Avoid Snags While Fishing & How to Retrieve Stuck Lures

There’s nothing worse than getting your favorite fishing lure snagged while you’re out on the water. First, you could lose your snagged lure, but even if you don’t, you can ruin a drift while you try to retrieve it! Your best best is to avoid or reduce snags when fishing if possible, but there are some ways you can retrieve lures that get stuck despite your best efforts.

In this post, I’ll first help you understand what sort of cover can result in snagged fishing lures. Then, I’ll help you understand what to do about getting unsnagged if your fishing lure gets stuck. Finally, I’ll review a few products that can save you time and money by helping you retrieve all or some of your rig.

Types of Fishing Cover That Often Result in Snags or Stuck Lures

While you can get your fishing lures stuck in many things, the following types of cover are the main culprits. Let’s take a look at them and what to do about them.

Weeds (ESPECIALLY Reeds)

While your fishing lures can get stuck in all sorts of weeds, the ones that will probably cost you your lure are reeds. These spongy plants stick above the water and are a great place to catch fish. Unfortunately, early in the season I’ve certainly lost my share of crankbaits near them. They can have very dense fibers that are nearly impossible to tear a hook from once it is stuck. Early in the season, they may be submerged so you wouldn’t even know they’re there unless you’re familiar with the area.

The best way to avoid getting snagged while fishing in reeds is to use lures designed for them. Many types of lures have a “weedless” option that is meant to help lures glide through them without getting stuck. For example, these hooks for wacky wigging have a wire weed guard that is claimed to prevent snags. While you’re still going to get a weed or two on them, the guard should prevent the hook from jabbing into reeds and getting your lure stuck.

You can also use lures like Spinnerbaits or Swim Jigs, both of which have a guard of sorts that will reduce the number of snags you get while fishing reeds. A spinnerbait’s bent wire frame will deflect most cover, while the brush weed guard on a jig will also serve this purpose.

I once wrote an article about keeping weeds off your fishing lures, if you want some more ideas on how to do this.

Rocks

Fishing around rocks is a great way to catch fish, but it’s also the perfect place to snag and lose your fishing lures. Jigs, crankbaits, and especially drop shots seem to just get eaten by rocks if you aren’t careful. This is because they have so many nooks and crannies to catch every last corner of your lures.

All of these rocks are, at some point in the year, submerged. It’s not hard to see how you could get an impossible snag.

If you fish around the same areas for long enough, you’ll figure out where the worst culprits are. I deliberately avoid casting in a few 2×2′ sections of Lake Champlain when I can, but accidents happen. Sometimes you can retrieve your lure by lifting your rod tip way up and giving it a few quick flicks. If you’re lucky, your lure will jiggle free. Another option that often works is to change your angle. Rocks snag fishing lures by wedging them in place. If you change your angle, on occasion you can get them free. Unfortunately, this will mess with your drift or presentation.

Good Lures to Avoid Snags When Fishing Rocks

As with weeds, sometimes the best way to avoid snags while rock fishing is to use lures specifically designed for the area. For example, a football head jig is designed in such a way that (hopefully) it won’t get “as” snagged as jigs that have a narrower head. The idea is the wide sides of the football head may prevent the jig from winding up in the crevice.

It’s also a good idea to use specific drop shot sinkers when fishing around rocks to reduce your snags. First, I would certainly prefer a cylindrical-shaped sinker as opposed to a ball, as this (hopefully) can be retrieved from rocky areas easier.

I’d also purchase the type of drop shot sinker that has a pinched tie off rather than an open style one. What I mean by this is there’s going to be a piece of metal that attaches to the lead, steel, or tungsten of your sinker. You’re meant to tie your line to this metal. Basic sinkers just have a metallic circle that you tie a knot around. Dedicated drop shot sinkers often have basically a piece of pinched metal that you slide your line up into, without needing to tie a knot. This way, if your sinker gets stuck, a little tug will release at least your hook and bait so you don’t lose the entire rig.

these drop shot sinkers are meant to fish around rocks without getting snagged.
These dedicated drop shot sinkers are cylindrical in shape and have a pinched head that doesn’t require a knot. These are the type you should be using if you want to avoid getting snags while fishing in rocks.

Wood

Wood is a real heartbreaker to snag on when you’re fishing because it does a good job of imitating a bite. Sometimes, you’ll set the hook and find you’re stuck in a laydown. Further, sometimes you’ll snag wood after a fish bites and runs you into it! Because laydowns are often tangled messes, it can be very challenging to retrieve your lure without a good hook retriever. If you snagged on a cast, there’s also the chance that your line has wrapped hopelessly around the wood making your challenge even more dire.

Again, your best bet is going to be to use lures that are designed for fishing around wood if you want to avoid snags. Most weedless lures will also do well around wood given the idea is to keep the hook point out of the weed fibers, but another lure that you might not think is good is actually pretty decent at avoiding snags in wood: the square bill crankbait. The design of these lures tilts the bill at such an angle that it deflects off of wood and other cover before it can snag your hooks.

Trees

Trees are self explanatory. If you cast into them, chances are you’re going to get snagged. Most of the time the issue isn’t that you catch them with your hook. Instead, it’s that your line wraps hopelessly around their branches just like it can in lay downs. To avoid snagging trees while fishing, practice discipline while casting. If you do cast into the trees, stay calm. Observe what happened and how your lure is dangling. Sometimes, a quick pop can retrieve your snagged lure so long as it is done at an appropriate angle.

Tarps and Other Submerged Objects

These are the real buggers that’ll get you. Forget rocks, weeds, wood or trees – it’s TARPS and other junk landowners put in the water that will give you the worst snags of your life. These can be almost impossible to retrieve your snagged fishing lure from even if you can see it and access it because of the dense fibers.

The most common place I’ve seen these are underneath rip rap on lake shores. Landowners will place a tarp or mill felt of some sort underneath their rocks to prevent vegetation from growing through. If you get stuck on one of these you can pretty much forget it.

How to Get Your Fishing Lure Unstuck

If you get snagged while fishing, there are a few different tricks you can use to try and get yourself unstuck. Here’s a few different ways you can try it to retrieve your lost fishing lure.

Pause and Think

First thing’s first – use your head. If you just start jerking your fishing rod back and forth wildly the second you find yourself snagging cover, you’re all but certain to make it worse. Instead, try and be sensible, stay calm, and attempt to think of how the lure is snagging, so that you can come up with the best way to unsnag it.

For example, some lures are designed to float. Sometimes, if you give it a little time and sway your rod from side to side, you can loosen whatever your fishing lure is stuck on and get it clear. You want to be pretty gentle with this in case the hook is simply lodged weird. A little twitch or two might free it.

Change the Angle

Sometimes the best way to get a fishing lure unstuck is to change the angle your approaching the snag from. You have to figure, your lure is wedged in something like a rock, right? Well, maybe at another angle you aren’t pulling against the rock and it will work free.

Use the “Bow and Arrow Method”

There’s a technique you can use to try and retrieve a snagged fishing lure called “the bow and arrow method.” In it, you’re basically introducing slack suddenly and with force to a lure to come off an obstruction. Here are the steps:

  • Grab your line with one hand.
  • With your other hand, pull your rod back until it loads up and bends like a bow.
  • Pull the line off to the side, as though you’re pulling back on a bow and arrow.
  • Release the line with one hand while twitching your rod with the other, like you’re releasing “the angle.”

If you are more of a visual learner, Angler West TV has a great video demonstrating the technique. Consider subscribing to their channel for more impressive tips and tricks:

Lure Retrievers

One product that can quickly pay for itself is a lure retriever. This is a tool designed to, well, retrieve a snagged fishing lure from its watery trap. They make different types of lure retrievers. Some are small devices that attach to your line and are designed to slide down it to the snag and pop your lure free. These may be your only option if you’re fishing in deep water and catch a snag on a reef or submerged cover.

If you’re fishing shallower, I prefer the type of lure retriever that is basically a long pole with a metal coil at the end. You wrap the coil around the line to guide it down to your lure and then slide the coil down while holding onto the pole. The Frabill 9865 Lure Retriever has a telescoping handle that can reach as far as 15′. While this obviously presents a limit to how far you can go, this design also can be used for freeing fishing lures that get snagged in trees. As I don’t typically fish much deeper than 15′, this suits my purposes fine. Finally, I have the ability to give it a few whacks, with as much strength as I want with this product whereas the sliding weight versions rely on gravity.

Which Lure Retriever Is Best?

Lure retrievers are one of the few fishing accessories you can buy that actually save you money in the long run. When you consider how much crankbaits and other plugs cost these days, you only need to retrieve a few of them to make the purchase worth it. The only question is, which one is best for you?

Again, if you’re fishing relatively shallow water, it’s hard to beat a pole version such as the Frabill. If you’re in deeper water, you’re going to want to use one of the weighted versions such as this Davison Snag Buster.

If All Else Fails: Break Your Line the Right Way When Snagged

When you can’t retrieve your snagged fishing lure, you’re going to need to break the line. There is a right way and a wrong way to do this, and the wrong way has severe consequences. First, you could break your rod if you aren’t careful. More importantly, you could severely injure wildlife if you leave a long strand of line dangling somewhere.

What you want to do is try and break the line as close to its weakest part (the knot) as possible without breaking your rod. Some people suggest pointing your rod tip straight at the snag, reeling up all your slack, and grasping your reel spool while you pull directly away from the snag until it snaps. The issue with this (especially with braid) is that it can end up burying your line into the spool which will cause backlashes and other issues later on.

A far better option is to take off enough slack in your line that you can wrap it around a paddle or a piece of sturdy wood well ahead of your rod tip. You want to make sure you give yourself enough slack so you don’t hit the rod tip, but pulling back this way will make sure you don’t bury the line in your spool and cause yourself other problems.

Under no circumstances should you ever pull back on the line with your rod, or grab the line directly with your hand. The first can lead to a catastrophic failure of your rod potentially leading to injury. The second can deeply cut you, especially with braid.

Good Luck Out There!

It’s never fun to encounter snags while fishing, but at least now you have some options for how to get your lures unstuck. Remember, keep your head. Assess the situation. Do something sensible, and consider carrying a lure retriever with you–it could save you thousands over the years.

I hope this article was helpful!

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


Does Talking or Making Loud Noises Scare Fish Away?

If you’ve been fishing for any length of time, someone may have told you to be quiet so you didn’t scare away the fish.  Perhaps you’ve even told that to someone else, such as your kids.  There’s a very common theory that talking or making loud noises scare fish away.  The question is, is that true?  The answer really is, it depends.

Talking or making loud noises will only affect your fishing success if the fish perceive this noise as danger.  Talking or making loud noises will scare fish if those noises are unusual to fish and startle them, or if the fish associate the particular noise with trouble.  However, when it comes to noises the fish hear all the time with no negative association, it’s very unlikely that they’ll be scared.  Further, there’s a good chance fish won’t even hear noises that are made above water as they don’t penetrate water very well.  On the other hand, noises that are made directly into the water or that cause vibrations are much more likely to be heard by fish, potentially spooking them.

Having said that, it’s always best to try and be stealthy when fishing so you don’t spook fish. After all, it’s one of the few things you can control, so you should! Let’s explore some of the more common noises you might try and avoid while fishing, and ones you probably shouldn’t sweat over.

It’s All Condition Dependent

First of all, let’s clear something up – not all noises are going to spook all fish the same.  Generally speaking, fish are going to be more likely to scare in clearer water or when they are heavily pressured by fishermen or predators.  If the fish are already on edge, it doesn’t take much extra noise to spook or scare them.  If, for example, you see a bay full of cormorants resting on the surface, it stands to reason splashing noises would scare the heck out of fish.

On the other hand, fish that are conditioned to certain noises being “normal” probably aren’t going to be bothered much by them.  I once went with my friend on his pontoon boat to a very popular cove in Lake George, NY.  There must have been 30 boats there with people swimming, splashing, jumping, hollering, and playing music.  It was a zoo.  All the same, I had no trouble whatsoever landing several fish right in the midst of all this with a drop shot.  The reason was simple.  The fish were conditioned to this noise and didn’t associate it with danger.  The fish in this cove probably heard all the talking and music for weeks with no one bothering to wet a hook before I came along.  As a result, these fish weren’t scared by music or loud noise at all and were willing to bite.

As a general rule, the greater the fishing or predation pressure, the quieter you should try to be so you don’t scare away fish or spook them out of biting.

Believe me, this kid jibber jabbers while he fishes and he still catches plenty!

Some Noises Don’t Penetrate Water Very Well

For a noise to scare a fish, it first must be perceived by them.  Not all surface noises do a great job of penetrating below the water.  Don’t believe me? Go jump in a busy pool sometime.  While there may be kids hooting and hollering above the surface and making a giant scene, the instant you dunk your head underwater, much of that sound disappears. 

If you can’t hear those kids making a racket, chances are the fish aren’t going to hear you and your buddy talking about the ball game while you fish.

talking will not scare fish or these four boys would not have caught these largemouth bass
These four boys talked up a storm while they fished and they didn’t scare anything away.

Talking Is One Thing, But What About Music?

While talking quietly probably won’t scare many fish, will loud music?  Well, I’d argue probably not, and for the same reasons.  Again, much of the music is going to have a hard time penetrating the water in the first place.  Unless you’re playing dubstep or something else with heavy bass, fish might not even hear it. 

Secondly, we again must ask ourselves, “even if fish did hear the loud music, would they perceive it as a threat and get scared or spooked?” Here too, the answer is “probably not.”  If the waters you’re fishing has its share of bowriders or other party boats, it has its share of music being played by folks who aren’t wetting lines.  The fish might have heard music before, but they don’t have many opportunities to associate it with danger, as most anglers are trying to stay quiet and not blasting tunes.

Noise In Direct Contact With Water Travels Very Far

While most airborne noise has a hard time penetrating water, noise made within the water travels very far indeed.  The Scientific American claims that sound travels about 4.3 times faster in water than it does in air, and I have no reason to doubt them! Thus, noises like dropping something heavy on your boat, using your trolling or main motor, or splashing weeds off a lure are all going to create noise that fish will quickly hear.  Some of these sounds may even spook them. 


If a sound penetrates the water well, it’s one you should consider avoiding or minimizing so you don’t scare away fish.

Common Noises That May Scare Fish

The most common noises that fish are likely to hear and likely to have a negative association with are trolling motors, sonar, and splashes.  This is because these three noises are directly correlated with them or their buddies being hooked or eaten.  If any noise is going to scare a fish, it’s these.  Let’s explore them in more detail and what we can do about them.

Does the Sound of a Trolling Motor Scare Fish?

Trolling motors are used by exactly one type of person: anglers.  While they are fairly quiet at low speeds, if you crank it up or get a bunch of weeds on them, they make quite a racket.  So here we have a sound that can both be heard by fish, and that fish have ample opportunity to associate with danger. 

The common advice with trolling motors is to avoid shutting it on and off as this is startling and abrupt.   It is considered much better to just keep a constant low speed on your motor as eventually it will fade into the background just like white noise to fish and won’t spook them. Even if you have to leave it blasting on full speed, such as when you’re trolling for chain pickerel, this is better than turning it off and on.

You should also avoid getting weeds on your trolling motor as these increase vibrations that can be perceived by fish.  A weed-choked trolling motor also requires more power to keep your boat going with all that implies.

Further, it is good practice to ensure your trolling motor is securely attached to your boat.  The bolts on these can loosen over time, which increases the noise.  This is also good practice to avoid having that expensive trolling motor litter the bottom of some lake!

Does Sonar From Fish Finders Spook Fish?

Your fish finder works by utilizing sonar, which is the emission of a ping or noise which then bounces back as an echo to the finder.  Depending on how loud this noise is, fish may hear it.  Given that sonar is also a sound that has a chance for fish to form a negative association, it’s one more thing that can hurt.

On the other hand, every bass boat in a tournament has at least one sonar display, with many these days having three or four.  While they do emit sound that could possibly scare fish, sonar displays come with such additional benefits that they outweigh this risk.

Having said that, sonar becomes much less useful in shallow water.  When you’re fishing a bay, you’re really not finding fish with a fish finder – you’re just finding submerged weeds.  If the water is clear enough to see these without the finder, why stack the odds against yourself?  Turn it off before the noise from the fish finder spooks the fish!

What About Splashes in the Water?

I have mixed feelings about if splashes in the water scare fish.  On the one hand, fish are used to hearing the splash of giant carp breaching, or fish hitting a bug on the surface.  Surely, these sounds would be no cause for concern.  On the other hand, another major source of splash noises are predatory birds like cormorants and eagles.  Fish learn very early that one of their greatest threats comes from above, so to the extent you’re making splash noises that remind them of birds, you may scare or spook away the fish you hope to catch.

Another reason I have mixed feelings about splash noises is because of direct experience, and one you probably have as well.  Often, a bass will hit a lure the instant it hits the water.  On the other hand, you’ve also probably seen the boil of a fish startling and fleeing from where you cast.  It seems to matter on what they perceive the splash to be at any given moment – an opportunity, or danger.

To further complicate matters, there are certainly some lures, especially topwater ones like buzzbaits, that are deliberately designed to make a lot of noise and commotion on the surface.  These lures work, and their splashes certainly don’t hurt.  On the other hand, one of the main reasons folks pitch or flip lures is to minimize the splash they make when they enter the water. 

Really, it’s a coin flip, but it’s one of those things you can control, so you should.  Unless you’re specifically trying to ignite a reaction strike or feeding frenzy with splashing lures, I recommend disturbing the surface as little as possible.  I wouldn’t add extra noise letting fish know you’re there and potentially spooking them if I could help it.  Consider other methods of removing weeds from your lures than smacking them against the water!

How to Avoid Making Noise While Fishing

If you’re worried about noise scaring fish, you can take some easy and common sense steps to reduce the amount of sounds you make.  Here are a few tips.

  • Avoid motoring full blast into your fishing spot.  Cut the motor well ahead and either drift into your targeted area or use your trolling motor.  Note, you’ll have to balance this against the threat of someone else swooping in.
  • Try not to drop things or stomp onto the floor.  While talking or music is unlikely to scare fish, the sudden *THUMP* of your pliers banging onto the hull might.  Remember, the hull is directly touching the water which means that sounds will transmit more easily from it.
  • Remove weeds from your fishing lures by hand, rather than splashing the lure into the water.  This will have the added benefit of letting your lures last longer as well, which is always a plus.
  • Keep your trolling motor free from weeds.  There are products which can help make a trolling motor weedless or semi-weedless.  The less weeds there are on the motor, they less vibrations you’ll make and the lower the speed that will be required to move your boat forward.
  • Make sure all your motors are securely attached to your boat to reduce vibrations and the sounds that come from them.

How Long Will Fish Stay Scared or Spooked By Noise?

There’s a phrase that works for fish as well as men: “life goes on.”  While some sounds may spook fish or put them on edge for a bit, they need to eat eventually, so they’ll get over it.  When I’ve motored into a particular rock point or such, I’ve sometimes found it takes a couple of minutes for the fishing to heat up, but if they’re there, it eventually does.  You just need to allow the fish a chance to settle down and process what they heard, come to terms with it, and move on with their lives.

In Short, Try and Be Quiet, But Still Have Fun

Fishing is a sport filled with variables, many of which are beyond our control.  How much noise we make is one of the few things we can control, so we should.  While talking or playing music is unlikely to scare fish, clanging objects on your boat’s or blasting your motor right through your fishing spot can spook the fish you’re trying to catch.  Do your best to stay stealthy while still having a fun time, and don’t worry too much if you scare a few fish away.  There are more around.  Trust me.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


What Type of Fishing Pole Do You Need?

If you’re new to the sport, one of the first questions you might ask is “what type of fishing pole do I need?” While I’ll go into more detail as to why, I’ll cut right to the chase: Beginners should buy a 7′ medium-heavy power, fast action spinning rod as your first fishing pole.  This is a versatile set up that allows you to fish fast or slow in a variety of cover and situations and is the all around best fishing pole for a beginner.

Let’s break down why a 7′ medium-heavy power, fast action spinning rod is the best fishing pole for beginners.

Note: while the correct term is technically “fishing rod” many beginners are going to call it a “pole.” As this website is designed to help newcomers, I will use the term interchangeably.

Why a 7′ Fishing Pole is What Beginners Need

While you can get a fishing pole that is longer or shorter than 7′, I find the 7′ length to be the sweet spot that allows you to do anything with it.  For example, I prefer slightly shorter rods for techniques like jerkbaits and slightly longer ones for frogging or jigs.  7′ is an acceptable medium between all of these.

7′ is also the perfect rod length for spinnerbaits and plastic worms, which are outstanding beginner fishing lures.  Since these are two of the lures you should plan on using when you’re first starting out, it stands to reason that the best beginner fishing pole would be one that can use them well!

7′ fishing poles will also fit in most rod lockers on boats, if you have one.  It was only fairly recently that manufacturers started making larger rod lockers so if you have an older boat (or might be in the market for one eventually), that’s an added plus of this length.

Given all this, a 7′ fishing pole is clearly the type you need as a beginner.

Why I Suggest Spinning Rods

If you’re a beginner purchasing your first fishing pole, I highly suggest that it be a spinning rod rather than a casting rod.  While you’re probably going to notice that the professionals have far more baitcasters in their rod boxes than spinning gear, remember, they’re pros.  Baitcasters vs. Spinning rods are very much akin to a manual transmission vs. Automatic transmission car.  Whlie anyone could learn either first, it’s just easier if you can concentrate on driving / fishing rather than worrying about shifting or keeping a baitcaster under control.

A spinning rod, in my opinion, is also more versatile than a baitcaster, even if it isn’t as good as a baitcaster in several situations.  A big enough spinning rod can throw any kind of lure.  Anyone who claims you can’t throw a frog or jig on one is incorrect.  True, it will be more difficult, especially in heavy cover, but it isn’t impossible.

On the other hand, try throwing a tiny lure any distance on a baitcaster.  While I suppose it too isn’t “impossible” it’s so much more difficult.  Buying a spinning gear is going to make techniques like tiny drop shots accessible to you, which is important when you’re starting out.

Why Medium-Heavy Power Fast Action Rods Are Perfect for Beginners

While you might think a “medium” rod is the middle ground with fishing poles, that’s not really true.  For most manufacturers, a medium power fishing rod is actually pretty light.  The true middle ground is really a medium-heay rod.  This is the beast that’s going to let you fish anything you want, with reasonable success.

While most medium-heavy power fishing rods are designed primarily for spinnerbaits and plastic worms, they’re also heavy enough to fish frogs through heavy cover and light enough to toss a crankbait with some success (you might just want to loosen the drag a little).  If you could have only ONE fishing pole, a medium-heavy power rod will give you the most options.

As for action, it’s simply how extensive the tip bends.  Again, a fast action is a good all-around option that will allow you to fish many lures successfully.

What are Some Good Fishing Lures for a Medium-Heavy Power, Fast Action Rod?

While a medium-heavy power, fast action rod can throw pretty much anything successfully, they’re really designed for spinnerbaits and soft plastic worms.  Point in fact, on several rods, they specifically state this right on the label. 

If you’re using spinnerbaits on a medium-heavy power, fast action rod, I’d recommned going with lures in the 1/2 oz size.  While doable, 3/8 oz won’t cast as far or as well.  If you prefer the more compact size of the 3/8 oz spinnerbaits, several brands such as War Eagle make a version of their spinnerbaits that weigh 1/2 oz but have a small and compact size.

As for soft plastic worms, you really can use whatever type you like.  I have one medium-heavy power, fast action rod that is dedicated to wacky-rigged Senkos, with another rigged up for Texas Rigs when I need something a little more weedless.  Both work great on this type of rod.

Which 7′ Medium-Heavy Power, Fast Action Spinning Rod Should a Beginner Buy?

If you’re a complete beginner and are uncertain if you’re going to like this sport, I would suggest getting an inexpensive fishing rod.  That doesn’t mean you should get a cheap fishing rod, however.  Luckily, Ugly Stik has a 7′ medium-heavy fast action spinning rod in their GX2 series that is perfect for someone starting out. Really, its the only type of fishing pole you need to get into this sport.

True, it’s not as flashy as a nice St. Croix (which I’d definitely treat yourself to once you get the hang of things), but it is durable, effective, and efficient.  I recommend folks stock up on Ugly Stiks early in life. They tend to be the sort of rods that sticks with them all through life and get handed down to the kids one day.  We still have some Ugly Stiks in our arsenal that have been going strong for close to thirty years now. 

While they aren’t the most sensitive rods, you really don’t need that with many techniques (for example, there’s absolutely no doubt when a fish slams a spinnerbait or topwater lure, and even most takes on a worm are quite discernable).  What you do need is a rod you can count on not to break when a monster hits, and Ugly Stiks are renowned for their durability. 

I understand that if you stick with the sport, you’re evenutally going to upgrade. All the same, an Ugly Stik GX2 is not a purchase you’re going to regret.  We’ve all been there where we’ve bought something inexpensive and then thought to ourselves, “man, now I have to buy something twice!”

an ugly stik is a great type of fishing pole for beginners.
An Ugly Stik will never let you down.

What Are Some Other Good Types of Fishing Poles?

While I do maintain that an Ugly Stik is a great type of fishing pole for a beginner, if you want something a little higher end, I am a big believer in the St. Croix lineup.  I’ve more or less been buying nothing but Ugly Stiks and St. Croix (with a few Browning Silaflexs thrown in) for the past 10 years.  I have an article that goes into the different St. Croixs that you could buy here, but their baseline Triumph line is a very affordable entry into their world.  Here is an article I wrote reviewing the St. Croix Triumph series in detail.

Conclusions

If you ever ask yourself “what type of fishing pole do I need?” the answer is simple. A 7′ medium-heavy power, fast action spinning rod is the pole you should buy if you’re a beginner.  It’s versatile and will let you fish a wide variety of lures.  Further, it’s also relatively fool-proof being a spinning rod.  It’s the sort of rod you can count on using throughout your life and you can fish fast (spinnerbaits) or slow (worms) while also skimming lures across the surface (frogs) or reaching the depths (dropshots).  There’s really no downside to this being your first fishing rod.  I hope you enjoy!

Thanks,

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


Fourth of July Fishing Fireworks on Lake Champlain

A gentleman recently posted in a Facebook fishing group that he felt that several recent fishing tournaments on Lake Champlain had hurt the fishery. I respectfully disagree. I’ve just returned from a week of fishing with my family up at Lake Champlain, and the fishing was very consistent and fun.

Here’s a look at how we did. Hopefully it will be of some use to your own family, especially if you’re planning a fishing trip to Lake Champlain in July!

The Weather Conditions

We showed up on Saturday, July 1 after what had been a rainy few weeks in the North Country. I was pretty excited about this to be honest, as my Lund Impact can be tough to launch in the shallows at the house. While it’s not a big deal to go use the town launch down the street, with kids, it’s just easier if it works at home. I was hoping that the rain had sustained the lake at a level where I’d be able to get Penelope off her trailer, and (with some heavy pushing) it was.

It seems like the lake has finally normalized a bit since the droughts we saw a few years ago. Normally, I can at least use the dock if not the launch through about early August, and I think that will be the case this year.

The week ahead was the usual Champlain July doldrum of doom and gloom. The weather reports figured there’d be thunderstorms the entire week save Thursday. If I could give anyone reading this any advice: trust your smart phone radar. Not the report. The counties up north are enormous. A 50% shot of rain in Essex County still has a very good chance of missing you. You have to be smart and safe about it and keep an eye on things, but don’t cancel a trip just because of a lousy weather report.

July sunset over Lake Champlain
The weather might have been crazy but it produced some amazing sunsets.

The Lake Conditions

As stated the lake was of relatively normal water level of around ’95. The rain throughout the week actually brought it up a few inches which made retrieving the boat easier than launching it. If you’re familiar with the Crown Point area, it was possible to drift a deep v across the entire entrance to Putnam Creek, though I had to raise both motors to do it.

The water in the south was quite clear in many locations. The temperatures were consistently high. Everywhere from about 72 to 80 where we were fishing. Absolutely perfect temps for pickerel and largemouth bass as you’ll see, but northern pike were hard to come by.

The Techniques that Produced

Tristan and I fished hard for six straight days. He can cast on his own now, and he brought up his birthday baitcaster with him and was having a ball learning on it, so he wanted to fish spinnerbaits as much as possible. Much of the time, we casted them, but given that he’s still little (and was getting a little sore from all the fish we were catching) we did troll with spinnerbaits quite a bit as well. If you’re new to the technique, I wrote this article a few years back with some tips.

In addition to spinnerbaits, we also fished a lot of plastic worms, gulp, and frogs & buzzbaits at dusk. We didn’t spend much time at all with crankbaits or anything with a treble hook.

For the most part, we found the fish active and willing to hit a fast moving target. I’d estimate 85% of fish were caught on a variety of spinnerbaits. The #1 producer was a 1/2 ounce War Eagle Spinnerbait in white. We caught so many pickerel on these that I now have to completely restock as my supply was eventually hammered. They do hold up well but every lure has its limits. In any event, on Champlain, I’d argue these are some of the best spinnerbaits you can use. You should really pick up a few from that link I posted.

The Places We Fished on Lake Champlain

Here’s a look at a few general areas we fished hard. Some were productive and others were not. However, bear in mind, I’m a dad fishing with an 8-year-old. I’m looking for numbers and action and not necessarily “bigguns.” This blog post really is aimed more for the parent who is vacationing up there, so perhaps one of you pros would do better in these areas that we did, using different techniques.

Bulwagga Bay

Longtime blog readers will know that I love fishing Bulwagga Bay. It’s like a mini lake all in and of itself with all sorts of habitat for pretty much every species of fish the lake offers (at certain times of year that is). We started by fishing the western shore and had a few hits here and there. There were too many boats given the holiday weekend to set up a troll as I like to there, but Tristan managed a few good bass on spinnerbaits including this bruiser here.

Largemouth bass caught in Bulwagga Bay, Lake Champlain
A nice bruiser of a bass from Bulwagga Bay.

We also invested some time on the eastern shore and found some huge bluegill and yellow perch along the various rock points that are on that side.

We did not spend much time in the south though there were some bass boats plugging away at the vegetation and they seemed focused on specific areas.

The Putnam Creek Delta

We spent a lot of time in the general area of Putnam Creek. Many chain pickerel came out of here. The bay just south of the creek is completely slopped over so you’re looking at frogs if you go deep. Spinnerbaits can be used along the edges but there aren’t as many fish.

While there are bass in this bay, I’ve really found it to be a major pickerel producing spot, which is why if you have kids with you and you want them to catch “something big” I recommend it. Unfortunately, that can make it a very frustrating spot to fish a frog. You can tell when a pickerel hits a frog as opposed to a bass because it almost attacks it like a dolphin sailing through the water whereas a bass has a giant localized “plop and boil.” You’re going to have to identify them this way because you sure won’t get many chances to reel one in. The way pickerel snatch a frog coupled with their bony mouths makes them very hard to hook. You will tear the heck out of your frogs trying, however.

Giard’s Bay

Per Google this is the spelling, but what do they know. This is the bay north of Yellow Lighthouse Point. I always try it for a spinnerbait trolling run or two, and I’m usually disappointed. This time was no different, but I mention it as a fishing report also ought to have what didn’t work. The reason I keep headed back here is I have caught some nice pike in the area. Pike and I have an abusive relationship where I’ll go fish a half dozen “memories” any given trip trying to find them.

Ticonderoga

We spent an entire day south near Ti. The area near the fort was the most productive, but we were so exhausted from casting the day prior that we mainly trolled the area just south of the fort to the La Chute River. It’s a challenging troll as the weed line takes some near 90 degree turns, but we caught a number of fish there including these nice crappie.

If you decided to troll this area, be very careful of the old pilings near the fort. One year my friend got both his outboard and his trolling motor caught on the rocks at the same exact time and it wasn’t fun! With trolling, you could easily collide with these if you didn’t know to look out for them, so I’d recommend finding them first and then avoiding trolling near them lest a hooked fish breaks your concentration.

White and black crappie caught on Lake Champlain
These crappie came on the same troll in Ticonderoga near the fort. It was interesting to catch a white and black one more or less at the same time!

Mill Bay

Since we had already made the trip down to Ti, we decided to head even further to Mill Bay. Now, I can’t fit my boat through the entrance to the actual bay itself, but we didn’t really want to go there anyway because it looked nearly dried out and choked with weeds. Instead, we fished the rip rap around the entrance for a bit. We mostly fished with drop shots and plastic worms, which produced a few bass, but not enough for us to stick around for long.

Of interest, there really weren’t any weeds to be found in this immediate area, which I found odd. To be fair, I don’t go there often enough to know if this is unusual, but if you’re looking for a weed pattern as we were, you wouldn’t find it there.

The Bay North of Stony Point

The bay just north of the paper mill on the NY side doesn’t have a name as far as I can tell. I’ve always called it “1000 Cast Bay” because it feels like it can take that many to cover all the water in it. It is, however, one of the better bays to troll. There’s a weedline that follows the contours on a humminbird fish finder very well and is almost shaped like a shallow “V.” While there’s weeds on either side of it, this is the edge of the heavy stuff and so as close as you can practically troll.

We lost what we believe to have been some larger pike while trolling, based on how hard they fought, but we also caught many bass. Tristan caught his personal best chain pickerel, this fine 25″ specimen. This would have been a VT Master Angler fish for an adult and blew the youth category out of the water.

25" Chain Pickerel caught on Lake Champlain
This chain pickerel was an absolute beast.

Other Photos

I had the pleasure to take my friend out with his children and their buddy alongside Tristan. If you ever hear someone say that bass boats are just as family friendly as Deep V’s, ask them if they could pull this off.

Note that literally every fish in this picture was landed from a drop shot with a simple nightcrawler. Most were caught on the same Ugly Stiks I’m always harping on you to buy. All were released safely after the photo.

A squad of kids landing fish is what this blog is all about!

Tristan and I went out the next day and continued to hammer them, bringing home a respectable limit of our own. Again, all fish were released safely after posing for a photo.

My New Favorite Family Photo

I wrote on Facebook that this is one of those photos I hope make it to my collage when I die. You can clearly see I’m exhausted in it, and am totally rocking the Dad-approved white New Balance sneakers that so many ladies give me such grief about, but in my view they make the photo.

Other Thoughts

This was one of those trips that reminded me just how good the fishing on this lake can be. While we didn’t catch a true giant bass, we had a few 4-pounders, which, to a kid, is dynamite. We also had no shortage of white perch and other panfish to target. I managed to put five different kids on fish throughout the week, some with minimal experience who were only four years old. It’s not every lake that you can do that this easily. So, while I respect the opinion of the gentleman who was concerned about all the recent fishing pressure, it didn’t hurt us.

I hope this helps someone headed up there soon!

Thanks,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


Gheenoe Comparison – Which Model is Right for You?

As I mentioned in an earlier article, I own a Gheenoe LT10. I think it’s a great boat and one that I’d definitely recommend to parents, or folks who just want a good skiff for smaller water bodies. With that said, it’s just one of six different Gheenoes currently offered by both gheenoe.net and customgheenoe.com. The point of this article is to help you choose which one of these six models is best for you.

The Different Gheenoes at a Glance

As of writing, there are six different models of Gheenoe you can choose from (at least that have information available on the main Gheenoe website). While there were other models available in the past, it appears that these are what you can buy new today:

  • 13′ Model Gheenoe
  • 15’4 Model Gheenoe
  • 15’6″ Classic Gheenoe
  • 16′ Super
  • LT10
  • LT25

At a glance, here is how they compare:

Gheenoe ModelLengthBeamWeightCapacityHP RatingTransom
13′13′3′ 8″145lbs412lbs5 HP15″
15’415′ 4″3′ 8″145lbs*675lbs10 HP15″
15’6 Classic15′ 6″4′ 7″245lbs530lbs25 HP15″
16′ Super16′4′ 7″350lbs650lbs40 HP20″
LT1015′ 10″3′ 9″190lbs300lbs10 HP16″
LT2516′4′ 8″270lbsunlisted (3 persons)25 HP16″
*Note, this is taken from the website… I understand the 13′ and 15’4 are listed at the same weight but I wasn’t able to locate other information.

The various Gheenoe all have their pros and cons. Here’s a few thoughts on each of them to help you decide which to choose.

13′ Gheenoe

At just 145lbs and 13′ long, the smallest Gheenoe is going to be your best bet if you need to cartop. While 145lbs spread across 13′ is awkward, at least it’s doable.

A nice thing about this model is that it has a wider stern compared to the 15′ 4″ version. Folks on various forums have mentioned that this makes it easier to stand in. Given that one of the main reasons you might be looking at a Gheenoe is its stability, this is probably a plus.

The 13′ also has a front seat positioned more rearward than the 15′ 4″ model. This is going to allow a bit more legroom for someone sitting up front, if that’s a consideration. You’d also be able to fit more gear up there if that happens to be “your workstation.”

The downside is that you can’t use much of a motor on this, though that’s probably not what you’re looking for if you’re choosing this model.

15′ 4″ Gheenoe

The website has the 15′ 4″ Gheenoe having the same weight as the 13′ model. I’ve snooped around on the internet and can’t find anything definitive saying this isn’t true. From the layout, I suppose it could be possible. The stern is less wide than the 13′ model and folks have advised that this makes it a little less stable. This makes sense.

On Gheenoe’s website, they’re claiming folks have reported speeds of 18+ MPH with the maximum 10 HP setup. It also has a more streamlined shape than the 13′ model which is going to help one paddle.

As stated above, by the looks of the photos, the 15′ 4″ actually has less legroom for folks sitting in the front. This may or may not matter to you.

Finally, just because you have another 2′ to account for, it’s going to be tough to get this model in the back of a pickup.

15’6″ Classic Gheenoe

Once you move up to the 15’6″ Classic, you are well past a cartopper and more onto a trailable skiff boat. While all Gheenoes look like canoes, the classic starts to look like a regular boat. It is considerably wider than the 13′ or 15’4″ (4′ 7″ beam vs. 3′ 8″) and is much heavier (an extra hundred pounds).

As it it wider, it’s going to be more, more, and more of everything that makes the smaller Gheenoe great. You can use a 25 HP motor, and can fit it with pretty much any option you could think of. It really transforms into a small boat. There are front deck or bench options and in the rear many folks opt for a raised poling platform for targeting various inshore fish on flats.

16′ Super

The 16′ Super Gheenoe is so large, it can actually accommodate a center console steering model if you’d like. This makes it much more of a flats boat than a canoe. The 16′ Super is 16′ in length with a 4′ 7″ beam and is rated for a 40HP motor as well as having a capacity for 650lbs. This makes it a “true” family Gheenoe where you can actually get the wife and both kids on comfortable.

The 16′ Super Gheenoe also comes standard with many “boat” features including a front deck, livewell, and bilge pump. Frankly, if you’re looking for a flats boat, this is a great option.

LT10

The type of Gheenoe that I own is the Low Tide 10, or LT10. It’s made by a slightly different company, “Custom Gheenoe.” You can read everything I love about it in an in-depth review I wrote here, but suffice it to say, it’s my personal favorite. Marketed as “the Gheenoe you need to see before you go buy that kayak,” it truly is a great option for small lakes and ponds.

At 15′ 10″ and 190lbs, this is a small enough Gheenoe to paddle, but can also handle up to a 10HP motor. I personally prefer the layout of these to both the 13′ and 15′ 4″ options available from the main site, though your preferences may differ.

While the manufacturer claims you can car top this, that would be a bit of an ordeal if you ask me. I’d certainly recommend buying the trailer. I’d recommend this model for parents with small kids who want to take them out on smaller lakes and ponds but don’t want to break the bank.

Gheenoe LT10

LT25

The Low Tide 25 is the largest Gheenoe offered at customgheenoe.com. While it’s only 2″ longer than the LT10, it is much wider (56″ compared to 45″) which allows more room for storage. Its width also allows you to choose either a tiller or a center/side console option for your steering. Rated for a 25HP motor, and only being about 80lbs heavier than the LT10 that can take a motor less than half that, this thing is going to fly through the water.

The LT25 would be a great option for someone who intends to use it on the flats looking for red fish or snook as it has a very shallow draft but can also accept the sort of engine that can get you to the best fishing spots quickly.

Conclusions

Regardless of which model Gheenoe you choose, you’re going to be getting a great boat for a much better price than you could find a dedicated bass boat or multispecies vessel these days. I hope this article helped you pick which one is best for you!

Thanks,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


Gheenoe LT10: A Review of the Ultimate Family Fishing Skiff

I’m beyond excited to finally get to write about my Gheenoe LT10. I purchased this fishing skiff all the way back in 2019 but for a variety of reasons I just wasn’t able to get it out on the water much until now. All the same, before I bought it I researched gheenoes extensively because I was looking for a very specific sort of vessel and found that this hit all the buttons. Let’s talk about My Gheenoe Low Tide 10 and why I consider it the ultimate family fishing skiff!

Why I Purchased a Gheenoe LT10

As long time readers are aware, I own a Lund Impact as my main boat. While I love it, it just isn’t the appropriate boat for many situations. As I live in Connecticut and am surrounded by many small lakes and ponds, several with limited launch access, I really wanted something smaller that could get me away from shore in places like Spring Pond, for example. After doing some research, I decided I wanted to buy a Gheenoe of one type or another.

If I lived in Florida, this would be easy, as Gheenoes are a dime a dozen down there. People love them because they make great skiffs or flat boats to fish from. Unfortunately, in Connecticut I had very few options. There was one dealer in New Hampshire, and another in Virginia. Neither appear to still be dealers so I’m glad I got when the getting was good!

Because of the scarcity, I really had to just grab what the gentleman had. Luckily for me, it was a model I was very interested in, the Low Tide 10. Here’s why I love it.

Gheenoes are Renowned for Their Stability

The main reason I wanted a gheenoe was because I’d prefer to fish standing up. While you “can” do this on some kayaks and canoes, I wouldn’t recommend it. Gheenoes, however, are specifically designed to allow you to do this. Their hull design is such that it basically gets wider on the bottom enhancing stability and keeping you safe.

I can confirm in practice that this is true. My Gheenoe LT10 has a bow and aft casting deck and while I would argue you need some balance to stand there, if I’m standing in the actual base of the canoe it is perfectly stable and I really don’t have issues. Transferring around to help my son out when he has a difficult fish to unhook or got a tangle hasn’t been an issue.

Child standing on very stable Gheenoe LT10
The Gheenoe LT10 is a perfectly stable small skiff.

My son on the other hand had no problem balancing just fine on the casting deck. This helps him get better casts out and a better view and keeps our rods far enough away from each other while we are casting. As you can see from the photo above, he doesn’t have a ton of room but at 8, he’s fine. You can appreciate why I’m not too keen about standing there, however.

Size

A Gheenoe LT10 is 15’10” long with a 3’9″ beam. It only weighs 190 pounds though distributing this across nearly sixteen feet makes it difficult to maneuver into a pond without a boat launch by yourself. Two men can easily handle it however, so when Tristan gets a little bit older I fully expect we’ll be exploring even more remote locations with this skiff.

The Gheenoe LT10 can carry 3 passengers or 300 pounds according to its safety plate. This is fine for a dad and small children such as myself which made it another appealing option for the “fishing father” in me.

A Wide Variety of Propulsion Options

The Gheenoe LT10 gives you many different options for power. When I took it out last year, I hadn’t registered it yet so I was stuck paddling. To be perfectly honest it doesn’t track as well as a normal canoe, which should be expected since it was designed for stability before speed or hydrodynamics. However, it can accommodate a 10hp motor in the stern, and it’s also possible to mount a trolling motor in the bow. This gives you the same options for boat control as a regular bass boat! To me, that made the Gheenoe LT10 a much more intriguing option than a kayak.

How Can You Customize a Gheenoe LT10?

Another great thing about these skiffs is how customizable they are. For example, here is a link to the different configurations as well as prices for a Low Tide 10 like mine. As you can see, you have multiple different options. For example, the following deck options are available:

  • Low Front Deck
  • Raise Front Deck (No Hatch)
  • Raise Front Deck (1 Hatch)
  • Rear Bench Seat
  • Back Foam Boxes (Not Bench)
  • Raised Rear Deck (1 hatch).

You also have several options for a center box:

  • No Center Box
  • Small Center Box
  • Center Box Fore & Aft
  • Center Box Divided

My Gheenoe LT10 is equipped with raised front and rear decks with a hatch in each, as well as what I assume is a “small center box,” though to be honest I’m not totally sure.

There are plenty of other options, including mounts for trolling motors so you can even accommodate a vaunted Minn Kota Terrova if you wished. Maybe some day!

Interior design of Gheenoe LT10
A look at the center and stern of my Gheenoe LT10. Note, you can order one that has neither of these options and just a full floor if you’d prefer.

How I Configured My Gheenoe LT10

I had to buy my Gheenoe new, but “as is” given that there just aren’t many dealers in my neck of the woods. Even so, the fact that I have an aft and bow casting deck with hatches as well as the center storage box gives me many options.

I power my Gheenoe with a simple Minn Kota trolling motor that has (I believe) about 36lb thrust. While I’m not going to win any speed races with it, this is sufficient to get going fast enough to troll spinnerbaits if I’d like. I power it with a 12v battery that I keep in the hatch right next to it. This is also where I keep my anchor. There’s a little open space in front of the hatch and I slide a few plano boxes in there. Basically, like any other tiller, I have everything I need “in my office.”

In the center waterproof box I keep my records/registration as well as life jackets and cooler. There’s a good amount of space in here and you could put a larger tackle bag in as well. I just try to cut down on what tackle I’m using on this.

At present in the front I don’t have much. I put my wheel chocks there for now. There’s another hatch so at some point if I moved to have a bow livewell, I could keep its battery there.

Gheenoe LT10 with a trolling motor for power
Note the black circles on the starboard side of the bow – these are rod tubes. There are two more on the port side as well.

Do You Need to Trailer a Gheenoe LT10?

While I’ve heard that some people car top these boats, at 190 pounds, I’m not! I bought one with a trailer. I will note that it is so lightweight you want to be disciplined above using the rear tie downs even for short trips. One important consideration is that this is such a narrow beam, you might have a hard time seeing the trailer in your mirrors while you’re backing. It might not be the worst idea to buy some longer trailer posts like these just so you can see it easier while you’re backing it up. I’d also just say it’s such a lightweight boat with such a small draft that these posts or load guides are going to make your life a lot easier on retrieval.

Gheenoe LT10 on a trailer
While portable, Gheenoes are probably too heavy to cartop if we’re being honest.

What Upgrades Should You Get for a Gheenoe?

There’s a whole list of upgrades you can get for your Gheenoe at customgheenoe.com. If you wanted to, you could even get a live well to put on one. For me, that’s a little much. However, I’d love to get the trolling motor mount for the bow so I can put a Terrova on there one day. While the trolling motor I have works fine for propulsion, I’d really prefer an option that allows me to fish with both hands while still controlling the boat.

Another thing I’d really like to buy for my Gheenoe is a proper push pole. My Gheenoe has a 5″ draft meaning I could get it into extremely shallow water. It would be very helpful to have a push pole to silently move through there on the hunt for bass. I’d probably pick something like this telescoping push pole up from Amazon given that it can go from 6 to 12′. I like the idea of being able to minimize it and store it away when not in use.

Is a Gheenoe a Good Boat for Kids?

I think a Gheenoe is a great option if you have kids. After all, that’s why I bought it. My LT 10 is stable, easy to trailer, and has enough room to put both my kids on. My Gheenoe came with 4 rod tubes to keep them out of the way which is plenty when fishing with kids, and there are places you can put a worm cooler. If your kids are little, they can sit “in” the Gheenoe as opposed to “on” it, which is helpful.

While I’d be hesitant to take small children out on a big and busy lake in any canoe-like boat, a Gheenoe is just about perfect for the smaller lakes and ponds kids cut their teeth in. While at 190 pounds, it is fairly heavy and difficult to launch by hand, I “have” done it (with trouble) by myself. Thus, you could get this into even little known kids ponds if you needed to.

Conclusions

Hopefully this helps you out in deciding if you should buy one of these. As the summer progresses I hope to have much more to say about fishing out of a Gheeno!

Thanks all,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


How to Get (and Keep) Permission to Fish Private Ponds

My children and I had a great Father’s Day Weekend made all the better by fishing my cousin’s small pond. It’s the exact sort of place you’d dream of where the fish haven’t seen a hook in years and just inhale your lure as it hits the water. While we’re lucky to have family who allows us to access this, not everyone has that ability, and need to ask permission instead. This article’s aim is to help you get (and keep) permission to fish private ponds.

A good place to start is probably understanding what the concerns the homeowner might have. It’s easy to think of someone who says “no” as a grump but honestly there are several legitimate reasons not to want to let a stranger on your property! Let’s explore a few concerns, as well as how to overcome them.

large crappie caught after securing permission to fish some private ponds
Small ponds can hold some awesome fish like this large crappie.

Stranger Danger

First and foremost, not everyone in the world welcomes strangers on their property. While there are certain parts of our country that are more hospitable than others, the media has done everything they can to make us absolutely terrified of each other.

The Solution: Dress and Act Appropriately

Do everything you can to look “normal” when you go and knock on someone’s door to seek their permission to fish their private pond. I know that’s asking a lot of some of us fishermen, but try to leave your shirt covered in worm guts at home for the first time! While you don’t need to show up in a suit, try and look as presentable and friendly as possible for this first meeting.

On that note, handshakes say a lot about a man, and the sort of fellow who is going to say yes or no to your fishing his pond is probably going to be the sort who pays attention to your grip. A firm handshake while introducing yourself and looking them in the eye is important.

You might also consider how you feel these days when the doorbell rings. There have been comedians who have had some pretty solid jokes about how odd that is in the modern era. While that may be your only ticket, you’re probably better off if you happen to catch the person outdoors where they can see you coming.

Not Wanting a Mess

Look, for every angler who leaves the bank a little cleaner than they found it, there’s another who gives them the opportunity. Riverbanks and shore access tend to be dirty places filled with trash. Property owners may well be expecting this and leery of granting someone permission to fish their private pond because of it.

The Solution: Offer to Clean Up After Yourself, Others, and Nature

It goes without saying that you should be clear you will leave absolutely no mess from your activities. You should also offer to clean up any trash you find.

With that said, most private ponds aren’t going to have much trash around them due to their private nature. They may, however, have a good deal of overgrown vegetation and such along the shoreline. Some folks have reported success with offering to take a weed whacker down and trim up the shoreline for the owner and clean the brushes out. Many ponds become overgrown because they’re a pain to mow around. The owner might actually appreciate your offer to landscape for them and agree to allow you to fish it in return.

small largemouth bass caught after receiving permission to fish some private ponds
My daughter doesn’t quite know what to think of this small bass.

Not Wanting Their Fishing Spot Ruined

Some folks might fish their ponds on their own, or, at least view them as fun little ecosystems they want to keep in balance. They don’t want their fish being taken or mortally injured or such.

The Solution: Offer to Use Circle Hooks, and Mention Catch and Release

Regardless of if you like to keep your catch now and then, you shouldn’t expect to do that when fishing a private pond. These are small bodies of water without many fish in them, and for all you know, the owner may have paid quite a bit to stock them. You should mention catch and release early. If the owner wants to practice selective harvest for pond management, they’ll let you know, but never expect it.

You might also mention circle hooks, rubber nets, or any other ways you have of being respectful to the animals you encounter. The idea is to let the owners know you’re going to take care of the fish in their private pond like they’re your own.

Another Solution: Leave the Friends Behind

You should be very clear with the property owner exactly who is seeking permission to fish their private pond. That person should be you, and you alone (well, a kid in tow wouldn’t hurt your chances). Property owners aren’t going to want their pond becoming the talk of the town, and there’s nothing like a buddy to do that. You also never know if your guest will now think they have the right to fish the pond too. It’s just a bad look. The whole reason you want to get permission to fish private ponds is so that you can have outstanding fishing all to yourself. Leave others behind!

Liability

Unfortunately, one of the main reasons folks aren’t going to want to give you permission to fish their private ponds is the liability of it. We live in such a litigious society and all they need is a lawsuit.

The Solution: Waivers?

There are some liability waivers that you can print out online and you might offer signing one if they ask. I’m not comfortable recommending one as I’m not a lawyer and you also might put yourself in a bad predicament with one. You might consider consulting a lawyer if you have 3 or 4 of them in the family like everyone in this country and ask them for help.

Other Tips

Here are some other things you can do to help you get permission to fish private ponds:

  • Bring a kid with you to ask permission. For one, you might catch their soft spot. For two, if you get told “No,” it’s a good opportunity for your kid to learn how to handle that with grace.
  • Show up with a gift. It wouldn’t be the worst idea to bring something small for the owner (including some cash). If you have a garden, some vegetables from it would be a good trade.
  • Offer to clean fish for them. While some pond owners are going to want everything to stay in there as unharmed as possible, others might actually want a meal. If you get the read that they’re the latter, offering to filet up a meal for them could make a big difference.
  • Don’t give up. If you’ve ever looked at Google Earth, you’d know there are ponds literally everywhere. Keep plugging away until you find someone who lets you fish them!

Conclusions

Private ponds are a great place to take kids fishing if you can get permission to fish them. I definitely recommend trying to secure it. Just remember that it isn’t like the old days and folks are wary of strangers, often with decent reasons. Also, someone set out to get that private pond with the idea of keeping it private and well-maintained. If you’re lucky enough to be granted the right to fish it, don’t abuse it!

Thanks,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!


The Best Split Ring Pliers for Fishing I’ve Ever Owned

If you fish a lot of crankbaits, you’re going to need to swap out your hooks at some point. The easiest and safest way to change a treble hook is with a good set of split ring pliers. While there are plenty of brands out there of “regular” pliers that have a little beak for split ring applications, I think you’re better off buying a dedicated tool. Allow me to introduce you to the absolute best split ring pliers for fishing I’ve ever owned.

What Are Split Ring Fishing Pliers Used for?

The reason most people own a pair of split ring pliers is to easily change out treble hooks on crankbaits. Most of these are affixed by some sort of split ring. To change out a hook, you need to open up the split ring to slide the old hook out, and put the new hook on. While you “could” do this with your fingers, this is a good way to get jabbed by a treble hook by accident, so I definitely recommend using a dedicated split ring fishing plier.

Why Change Out Your Treble Hooks?

The most common reason people change treble hooks is they break. There are certain lures that use very thin treble hooks that don’t hold up very well to bigger fish biting them. Other people like to change treble hooks out on lures to put on sharper ones that they have more confidence in. There are a few budget brand crankbaits that have action or colors folks like, but hooks they could do without. Regardless of why you’re swapping out your treble hooks, you do deserve to buy the best split ring pliers for fishing you can find.

The Best Split Ring Pliers for Fishing Hands Down

The best split ring pliers for fishing I’ve ever owned are hands down the Rapala Mini Split Ring Plier. This is a dedicated tool that exists for no other purpose than changing split rings. That is usually all you need to know in terms of why it’s going to outperform an “all in one” offering.

I’ve found that the pliers that have a little beak for split rings leave much to be desired. First, they are heavier than these mini pliers and often have a longer way to go between the plier and the handle to the ring. This makes it difficult to use these effectively.

Why Rapala’s Mini Split Ring Plier is a Must-Buy

There are several reasons that Rapala’s mini split ring plier is THE best split ring plier for fishing available. Here are a few of its selling points.

Compact Size

What I really love about the mini split ring plier by Rapala is that it is compact, which makes swapping out hooks go so much easier. You have much better control using this tool than a longer set of pliers. Changing out a treble hook can be an intimate affair that requires close scrutiny, especially if your eyes are aging! The closer your grip is to the business end, the better in my opinion. Really, this is the main selling point for these pliers and why I think you should buy them today.

Narrow Beak

The second awesome thing about Rapala’s mini split ring pliers is the narrow beak. Most of the beaks on “all in one” split ring pliers are going to be wide. This one is only a few millimeters wide. This makes actually opening the split rings substantially easier, in my opinion. You don’t want to open something that as narrow as a split ring with a wide tool.

The narrow beak on these split ring pliers makes for much easier usage.

Interestingly, the newer models of this tool have a sharper beak than mine. Mine worked great even with this dull beak so I’m sure the upgraded set is going to be all the better.

Durability

I’ve owned my set of Rapala split ring pliers for many years now and put them through a good amount of use. They haven’t broken or snapped on me. I’m a big fan of Rapala’s tools in general for this regard. Each one I’ve used has been of high quality and had a good measure of durability.

Hand Grip

The Rapala mini split ring pliers also have a great handle that has contours for your fingers. This is something that many of the competitor’s offerings lack, and I do think it makes a big difference on a cold day. In my neck of the woods, I’m most often going to be using these pliers in early spring and fall given that’s when I’m throwing jerkbaits with thin treble hooks. My hands are probably going to be cold while I’m using these, so anything the manufacturer can do to help me hold onto them is a big deal! The hand grip does that!

Dedication

As mentioned earlier, the Rapala mini split ring pliers are a dedicated tool. They aren’t one tool that tries to do multiple things. They are a tool that does one specific thing, and does it the best way possible. I think many of us have experience with “all-in-one” tools and will immediately get what I’m saying, but a dedicated use instrument is going to lead the pack.

Conclusion: Rapala Makes the Best Split Ring Pliers for Fishing

Personally, I think if you find yourself changing split rings often, you should pick up a pair of Rapala mini split ring pliers as they are the best ones, in my opinion, for fishing applications. They’re compact which brings your hand closer to the task at hand. Their narrow beak helps separate split rings easily. They’re durable and are going to last you many seasons. Their hand grip will make the job much easier in the cold. Finally, they are a dedicated tool that is going to outperform the jack of all trade offerings. Consider buying one today! You can always check the best prices at Amazon.

Thanks,

John Paxton

Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!