Hi All! I just wanted to write a quick post to let you know that I’ve published a second fishing book for kids, My Awesome Guide to Freshwater Fishing: Essential Techniques and Tools for Kids. I am very pleased to have partnered with Rockridge Press to bring this book to reality as it was awesome to work with this great publisher.
This book was written with an eye towards helping children aged 8 – 12 learn how to fish. It is written in substantially easier language than my first book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guideand should keep your youngsters occupied and happy. It would make a great addition to your library now that the school year is in full swing and would be a good way to keep them occupied during the cold winter months as they wait for their favorite fishing hole to thaw!
If you’re just starting fishing, or taking kids along for your trip, I would highly encourage you to fish with nightcrawlers or other worms. Live bait, such as worms, are the best chance you have of catching a fish. While fish will certainly eat “fake” or artificial worms, there’s no substitute for the real thing. If you’re a beginner, or taking someone along who is, fishing with live worms will help you get that early bite you need to build some confidence.
Nightcrawlers and other worms are great bait because literally every species of fish will eat them. Worms will catch everything swimming in your lake. Plenty of pumpkinseed, bluegill, perch, crappie, rock bass, bullheads, catfish, bowfin, largemouth and smallmouth bass are caught every day in America on a nightcrawler. Even species you wouldn’t expect to enjoy worms, like northern pike, chain pickerel, or even trout, have no qualms about chomping down on an earthworm if they get the chance. The only issue is whether or not they’ll get that chance before something smaller darts in and steals the morsel.
Let’s dive into why fish are attracted to worms, what kinds of fish will eat them, which types of worms you should use, and if there are any alternatives to live bait that also works well.
Why are Fish Attracted to Worms?
Fish are attracted to worms because they are a legitimate meal. A nightcrawler s a wriggling, fat and juicy live target that smells and tastes great (to a fish. I’ve never tried them). Just go find a school of panfish sometime and toss one into the center. They’ll do their best piranha impression in an instant. Even the fish that have been caught and released a dozen times already in their life will still go for it. The perceived reward outweighs the risk.
What Kind of Fish Eat Nightcrawlers?
As mentioned earlier, literally every fish in the lake will eat a worm. Just think back to all the times on Facebook that you’ve seen a friend’s kid catch a good sized fish. Let’s say that friend isn’t a regular angler and they were just messing around. What exactly do you think they caught that fish on? I would wager a fair sum that it was either a nightcrawler, earthworm, red wiggler and wax worm. After all, that was the first bait most of us used to catch our first big fish.
Some people don’t think that larger fish like largemouth bass or northern pike will eat a nightcrawler. This hasn’t been my experience. I believe the reason people think this is simply a lack of opportunity. If you throw a worm out into a school of largemouth or smallmouth bass, you will catch bass. But, if you throw a worm out near a few largemouth bass and a few bluegill, you will most likely catch a bluegill before the bass has a chance to react.
Do Bass Eat Worms?
Yes, largemouth bass and smallmouth bass eat worms, assuming that they aren’t beaten to their lunch by a school of smaller fish like pumpkinseed or bluegill. However, I have noticed that you are far more likely to catch a largemouth bass on a large worm like a nightcrawler than a small one like a garden worm or red wiggler.
It’s also very important that you leave a large amount of the worms tail free and off the hook, dangling and squirming through the water. The problem with this, of course, is that bluegill will rip it to shreds long before the bass can get close, in most instances. You might go through quite a few small fish before you finally land that bass.
All in all, if I wanted to catch a lot of bass, I would bring artificial lures. They work better than nightcrawlers simply because they help you weed out all the little fish. All but the biggest sunfish aren’t going to bother with a spinnerbait, for example.
Do Crappie Eat Worms?
If you’re after a tasty meal to eat, worry not: worms will work great for catching small fish like crappie. They like other panfish can’t get enough of them if you put them where they can find them. With crappie and other smaller fish you’re sometimes better off cutting the worm up into pieces so you can fit more of them on the hook. These fish tend to peck away at them around the hook if you’re not careful, which can lead to your going through a lot of bait before you have some success.
Do Pike Eat Worms?
Northern pike, muskie, and chain pickerel will all eat worms. The bigger question is if you’ll ever land them. Most of the time when you’re fishing a nightcrawler, it’s on a pretty small hook and with no leader. These two facts don’t bode well for catching anything with teeth. While you could use a fishing leader, there are better ways to catch these fish. In much of the open water season you’re better off using something like a spinnerbait or spoon that can be worked quickly through the water. Worms are very slow and precise so unless you know exactly where one of these less common fish are lurking, nightcrawlers won’t be your best bet.
Are Worms Good Fish Bait?
Worms aren’t only good fish bait, they’re some of the best fish bait that you can find. They catch everything that can swim and are fun to find with your children. If you’re in a rush, every tackle shop and many gas stations near you carries them. You can use them everywhere, so you don’t have to worry about if it is illegal like fishing with corn is in some places.
Nightcrawler vs. Red Wigglers vs. Wax Worms
Three of the more common worms that you’ll see at your tackle shop are nightcrawlers, red wigglers, and wax worms (which are actually larvae). Of these, nightcrawlers are the only ones I bother fishing with. I know that’s a contentious statement, but I’ve yet to find a reason why I needed to use any of the others. The biggest selling point of the other worms seems to be size. Well, a pair of braided line scissors can cut a nightcrawler down to size quite easily, and you’ll get the added scent of the blood trail to boot. Nonetheless, let’s talk about the others a bit.
Red Wigglers
Red wigglers are a smaller species of worm that is very popular as a composting worm and also can be found in many bait shops as “red worms.” They are thinner than nightcrawlers and generally come in packs with more worms because they’re smaller. Some anglers love using them but in my opinion you’re better off leaving red wigglers and earthworms for garden composting. They’re small and thin which makes them difficult to spear, and, again, why not just cut the nightcrawler down to pieces?
Wax Worms
Wax worms aren’t actually “worms.” Rather, they’re the larvae of the wax moth or bee moth. A website appropriately called “thewormlady” has a good writeup on them. Apparently, wax worms make good ice fishing bait and are well liked by smaller fish like yellow perch who will eat them in droves. I will give them this: the fact that they come in a container of wood shavings as opposed to dirt is a very nice touch indeed. I can’t tell you how sick and tired I am of cleaning dirt off my boat when my kid kicks the worm container somewhere!
Will Fish Eat Dead Nightcrawlers?
I once wrote an entire article on Do Fish Eat Dead Worms. It turned out to be one of my first “hits,” go figure. While you can get the details there, the bottom line is, yes, fish will eat dead worms, but as a worm decomposes this becomes less likely. It’s difficult to keep a very dead worm on the hook, and many of the species that will jump at the chance to eat a live and spritely nightcrawler will thumb their nose at a dead one. You’re far better off doing your best to keep your worms alive, and that means keeping them in a cool dark place until you’re ready to use them.
How to Rig Nightcrawlers and Other Worms
The way you’ll rig a worm on a hook depends on what fish you’re trying to catch. If you’re going for panfish like pumpkinseed, bluegill, or rock bass, you’ll want to cut up your nightcrawler and just use a tiny little morsel on the tip of your hook. This will enhance hook up rates and prevent fish from eating your worm without being caught.
On the other hand, if you want a chance at a larger fish such as a bass, you will want to use the entire worm. A big fish like a bass isn’t going to eat a tiny worm parcel – it wants the whole thing. You are much more likely to catch a bass with a nightcrawler if you use the whole worm and have its tail dangling off into the water. This will allow the tail to squirm and wriggle which will call the fish in and tell them it’s something good to eat.
Some people spear their worms through the head and thread the hook through its body. While I do this too, I don’t like having too much of the worm impaled by the hook. Doing so means that part of the worm can’t wriggle. Instead, spear the head but then leave a good section of the worm outside of the shank. Then, spear the worm again in the middle, leaving the tail fluttering in the waves. I’ve found this is a good balance that allows the worm to wriggle yet also keeps it secure on the hook.
Rigging Options: Bare Hook, Dropshot, Bobber
Most folks use one of three rigs for fishing with nightcrawlers. A bare hook, a drop shot, or a bobber. All have their pros and cons.
Bare Hook
The easiest way to rig a worm is on a simple bare hook. All you need to do is thread it on as discussed earlier and then throw it in the water. A bare hook is relatively light weight and will allow the worm to sink slowly. This gives many fish a good chance to look at it and decide if they’ll dart up and snatch it. Just make sure that you use a hook small enough for the sort of fish you intend to catch. My big issue with many of the fishing starter kits you see out there is that they come with such large hooks that this is impossible. A size 4 or 6 Aberdeen style panfish hook is perfect.
Dropshot
My preferred way to fish worms is with a dropshot. I like it so much that I spend considerable time talking about what a great presentation it is, and how it should be the first rig you learn. I teach how to tie it in this post about the basic skills you need to go fishing. Drop shots are great because their weight allows you to make a longer cast. They also are very good for keeping worms off the bottom so they foul less with weeds. Finally, while bobbers can also keep bait at a certain depth, a drop shot keeps them at a certain depth and certain place, the wind be darned.
Bobbers
Those of you who have been following this blog for awhile know that I hate bobbers with a passion. I go against the grain and completely advocate against using bobbers when fishing with kids, and have even gone so far as to suggest that bobbers are destroying America. Nonetheless, people use them, and they can (boringly) work. My only suggestion is that if you insist on using these bore-balls, you bring a good book along. Might I suggest my own?
What is a Good Alternative to Live Bait?
If you don’t want to fish with live bait, but still want to catch a lot of fish, the best alternative I’ve found has been Berkley Gulp. I find that small minnows work extremely well for catching panfish as well as bass. When I’m fishing them, I’m usually targeting larger species so I go with the 1.5″ to 2″ size, but if you were strictly after panfish, the 1″ size would do very well. While they come up to 3″, I have found that you don’t catch near as many fish with that as you’re basically filtering out everything that isn’t a bass or larger.
Berkley Gulp comes in different colors but I prefer a gray or black – something natural. You can buy them in pouches, or in a can that is filled with liquid. I’d recommend the can as the liquid has as scent to it that disperses through the water and calls fish in. You can buy these great baits at Amazon.
Do Fish Bite Fake Worms?
Yes, fake or plastic worms are some of the best bass lures manufactured. What might surprise you, however, is that you don’t want to try to find fake worms that look exactly like the real thing. While there are some companies that offer these, they are usually outproduced by worms that look a little, well, odd. One of the best plastic worms out there barely looks like a worm at all. Gary Yamamoto’s Senko is without any doubt my favorite plastic worm and it looks more like a rubber cylinder than a true nightcrawler. Regardless, it is perfectly balanced, has a good salt scent and taste to it, and flat out catches fish.
With that said, don’t expect to catch many panfish with a Senko. These are big fish lures. Largemouth bass love them and will bite them routinely but smaller fish have a hard time getting them in their mouths deep enough to be hooked. You’ll still feel them pecking at the lure but you won’t land many. Bass, on the other hand, can be caught one after the other. Some of my most memorable fishing trips were thanks to a Senko.
Conclusions
Never be afraid to put a nightcrawler or other worm on a fish hook and to see what will eat it. Every species out there can be caught on them — I don’t care what you’ve heard. The only question is if the nightcrawler really is the best bait for the type of fish you’re trying to catch. A worm is clearly the best bait for panfish. Nightcrawlers can also be great for largemouth and smallmouth bass, assuming they get a chance to eat them before a bluegill does. Northern pike, chain pickerel, and muskie will also eat worms, but there’s a good chance they’ll cut through your entire rig in the process.
Just make sure you know what species you’re trying to catch when rigging up your worms. If you’re after smaller fish, use smaller chunks of a worm – they won’t mind any and you’ll put more on the hook. Is catching largemouth bass your goal? Then you’ll want to leave as much of that worm on as possible. If you’re going for northern pike… Maybe try a faster moving artificial lure, unless you have all day.
Armed with this knowledge, you should have a great time fishing with worms! Let me know how you did!
I’ll cut right to the chase. If you’re asking me, “is fishing a sport?” the answer is yes. Emphatically yes. Fishing has all the factors of a sport. At high echelons, there’s tremendous skill involved, as well as athleticism. Like traditional sports, fishing has massive competitions with thousands of screaming fans. There are multiple governing bodies and organizations maintaining the integrity of the sport of fishing, just as you would find in football, hockey, or baseball. Finally, an ever growing number of colleges recognize fishing as a sport and even offer fishing scholarships for talented anglers to join the college’s bass fishing teams.
We’re checking all the boxes here, folks. Fishing is a sport, period.
How quaint the world would be if one meaty paragraph was all it took to convince you. I know that’s not happening, but bear with me while I make my case for why anglers are athletes.
Fishing Takes Skill
While I’m a firm believer that anyone can catch a fish, I recognize that the sport of fishing takes tremendous skill to succeed ad the highest levels. Fishing tournaments can pay out hundreds of thousands of dollars or more, and that wouldn’t be the case if just anyone could win them.
You literally have a situation where folks will spend a huge portion of their lives perfecting this craft. Some professional fishermen are likely closing in on a million casts, and with each one they try to refine their accuracy, distance, and subtlety. Fishing isn’t simply a sport at this stage, it might as well be an art too. The ability to deftly skip lures far under a dock or to to make a long cast without a large splash are traits few perfect. Like any slapshot or spiral pass, a perfect cast is an artform only the most skilled anglers can master.
There’s also considerable preparation to fishing. Many of us spend hours poring over books or obscure family fishing blogs on the internet trying to enhance our skills. Is this really any different than the quarterback who spends his nights with his nose in the playbook? Or, how about that scene in Cool Runnings where they’re all sitting in the bathtub, pretending it is a bobsled. In my mind, map study or reading the best fishing books is no different.
If one of the criteria for, “Is something a sport,” is “does it take skill?” then fishing checks that box.
The Sport of Fishing Requires Athleticism
Anyone who thinks that fishing isn’t a sport because it isn’t “athletic” has obviously never faced off against a giant halibut, or even just spent a cold and windy day on their feet in a rocking boat. They’ve probably never repeatedly cast a 1/2 oz. lure for 10 hours in the blazing sun. I doubt they’ve endured a 90 minute white-knuckle boat ride through raging swells, either.
I’m only 37. My body already can’t take the kind of abuse I used to put it through on long fishing trips of the past. When I was younger, I’d be out there from dawn until dusk throwing spinnerbait after spinnerbait. Now, that kind of work makes my shoulder ache, sets my hands on fire, erupts my back, and pummels my feet. Now, I have my share of health issues as everyone else does, but I wouldn’t feel this way if fishing didn’t require some athleticism.
In many respects, fishing can be a more difficult sport than some of the main ones. There aren’t that many sports besides fishing and American football that can claim to play in the worst weather nature provides. While fishing tournaments will be grounded in lightning or truly dangerous wind conditions, they’re not stopping for a downpour. The cold and wet aren’t the only issues, either. There’s no hotter place nearby than on a boat in the middle of the lake on a windless day. Fishing is a sport that pushes you against the elements like few others.
It Takes Athleticism to Reel in a Sport Fish
The elements, hours, and physical exertion aren’t the only reason I’d claim fishing is a sport. There’s also the matter of having to deal with the live, ticked off animal that often outweighs you on the other end of your line. Yes, freshwater fishermen rarely tangle with such giants, but saltwater anglers are going after tuna and marlin that weigh more than several men. Deepwater fishing is basically a giant tug of war with a wild demon from the depths. Not just anyone can do it!
Sports Can Be Relaxing, You Know
Some folks claim that fishing isn’t a sport because they see folks sitting in lawn chairs, drinking beers and watching bobbers. They claim that a hobby so relaxing as fishing can’t possibly be an athletic competition. Well, have you ever gone to a company picnic and played left field in the softball game? Did you break a sweat? I’ll bet you just enjoyed yourself and had a good time. The mere fact that fishing is relaxing does not disqualify it from being a sport. It just means that it’s another sport that can be enjoyed at a relaxed pace, if you’re so inclined.
There are Several Governing Bodies that Regulate the Sport of Fishing
As with all other sports, there are numerous governing bodies that regulate the fishing. Like FIFA or the NHLPA, these organizations regulate the rules for this sport to ensure that fishing remains competitive and fair. Everything from the types of permissible equipment to angling methods are categorized and considered. If fishing really were simply a hobby and not a sport, there would be absolutely no need for any of this.
Indeed, the fact that fishing is so highly competitive is one of the main arguments for why it is a legitimate sport. That it may be more niche than some other sports should not distract from the reality that fishing tournaments are long, multi-day, grueling affairs where extremely talented competitors go head to head. Frankly, fishing dwarfs some other niche sports. It’s estimated that there are 38 million anglers across the planet while only there are only 1.5 million registered curlers.
There are Many High School and College Bass Fishing Teams
One of the most compelling arguments for why fishing is a sport is the simple fact that so many high schools and colleges say it is. For years now, a growing number of schools have fielded their own bass fishing teams, competed in collegiate bass fishing tournaments such as those run by Major League Fishing. It’s not like these are filled with unknown schools, either. Both Baylor and Texas A&M have their own college fishing teams.
Several college fishing teams were detailed in an article by Major League Fishing where they went into the top 25 bass fishing colleges. As you can see, there are some top name schools there as well: North Carolina State, Virginia Tech, Kansas State and Perdue were all listed. That your child’s love of fishing may one day lead to collegiate success is a great reason to take your kids fishing.
How to Make Fishing More Sporting for the Fish
Once in awhile you run into someone who talks about how “sporting” something is or isn’t for the fish. Usually, they’re complaining about the use of braided fishing line, a heavy rod, or the act of horsing a fish in almost instantly. “The fish never has a chance!” they complain. “Use lighter tackle so the fish have a sporting chance.”
I mean, that’s a great idea and all if we’re trying to level the playing field between man and fish. The only problem is that, to the fish, this isn’t a game. They have no idea that “sport” is what you’re fishing for. Instead, they’re fighting for their lives. A hooked fish will dive through the most jagged cover, fling itself high into the air and smash down against the surface, make long runs, and expend every last bit of energy. Imagine how hard you would fight if your life was on the line. That’s what these fish are doing.
In the process of all this, fish are exposing themselves to a great risk of injury, and a certainty of high stress. Many go into shock. Some don’t come out. Whatever the argument is for keeping things “sporting” between you and the fish, you can bet it hasn’t accounted for this. Fishing might be a sport to you, but nature is playing for keeps. You should use the equipment necessary to safely get that fish into the boat as quickly as possible with the minimum amount of stress for your competition.
There’s absolutely no sport in deliberately choosing tackle that’s more likely to send an animal to an early grave, or at least to leave a rusting hook and snapped line in its mouth as a painful memento. While fishing is a great sport, always remember that it’s pitting you and against you, first and foremost. The fish are just one of the elements you encounter.
Final Words: A Study on Whether or Not Fishing is a Sport
I get it. I’m some random blogger on the internet. If you don’t want to believe me that fishing is a sport, consider this 2012 study in the U.K. that found that not only is fishing a sport, but it offers some unique features that set it up as a better sport for many. This report had some interesting observations:
Since the sport of fishing can take place over one’s entire lifetime, it is great for active aging.
Given that physical activity is required, but can be measured (some fishing is harder on the body than others), there’s a niche in this sport for everyone.
Angling’s physical activity is more sustained than other sports. Sure, sports like hockey require intense bursts of energy, but you might be out fishing all day.
It’s really quite an interesting study. Definitely click on the link and check it out when you have some time. It makes a compelling, data-driven case for why fishing is a sport.
I hope you found this article helpful. If you find your kids or spouse are spending much of their time fishing, smile. They’re participating in a great sport that will hone their abilities, give them some exercise, and could potentially pay for their college one day.
I’ve been a student of the sport of fishing for as long as I could read. I’ve often discussed how some of my earliest memories are poring over a book about Northern Pike and being enchanted by tales of the water wolf. My thirst for knowledge led me to acquire more and more texts throughout my life as I searched far and wide for the best fishing books on everything from largemouth bass to fly fishing. So inspired, I eventually wrote a few fishing books of my own.
Unfortunately, some of the best fishing books ever are no longer in print and can only be found on eBay, but there are several other great works available on Amazon and other retailers. Here is a list of my favorite fishing books of all time. Where possible, I’ll give you a link for purchase. Where not, I’ll at least describe it as best as possible so you can find it second hand some day yourself.
Note that while most of the “best of” posts out there basically try and spam you with every book ever written in a hope of making a sale, I really want to keep this list authentic and talk about the books that have truly inspired me, or I found useful for some reason. I have no idea if this will make it next to impossible to find this article on search, but at least if you do, it’ll be useful.
A Disclosure Up Front
Just so you know (and it is posted all over the place) I am an Amazon affiliate, and any links to Amazon on his page will grant me a small commission at no cost to you if you make a purchase. However, as of writing (4/24/2021), I’m not an affiliate for anyone else. So if I send you to some other website because that’s the only place I could find the book, it’s because I really want you to have it – not because I’m making any commission on it. Take that for what you will. I’m hoping that we’re planting a little “Trust Tree” here, but we’ll see if you agree!
The Fishing Books That Inspired Me
First things first, let’s talk about those fishing books that really inspired me as a kid: In-Fisherman’s Handbook series. I believe at the time it was called “The In-Fisherman Masterpiece Series” and was a boxed set of five. First printed in 1983, Dad had this set up at the lake and I would spend evening after evening staring at the book on pike in particular. While there are also books on laregemouth bass, smallmouth bass, walleye, crappie, (and later catfish), it was their book on northern pike that truly fascinated me.
It was this series of books that first taught me concepts like the different types of lakes (eutrophic, mesotrophic, oligotrophic) and where to find fish in each. It also had several cut away illustrations showing where to find fish on points and at different times of the year. They teach the different times of year from a fish’s perspective (e.g. pre-spawn, post-spawn, the summer peak, etc.) as well as how to identify these using water temperature and other clues. They discuss the likely moods of fish and how to trigger them at these times.
I’ve seen it said that these books are too technical. I’ll grant they’re technical, but I don’t know that the “too” applies. Again, I was able to follow along well enough when I was 6-10. I will say this, these are basically textbooks. They have some illustrations (mostly helpful maps) and some black and white photos, but by and large, they’re simply filled with information.
I’m the kind of guy who enjoys a thoroughly-researched tome and who isn’t afraid to dig through scientific journals from the 1940s to get information, as seen from my article on fishing for chain pickerel. I appreciate how the In-Fisherman publications always strive to bring science into their works.
Where to Find These Books?
According to the copy I have in my office, these books have been reprinted at least 17 times. There are quite a few out there! If you’re interested in checking out the book that I credit with basically inspiring me to grow up and write about fishing, click the picture below to go to Amazon and check best price.
While I liked their book on pike the best (mostly because of my uncle’s trophy hanging on the wall), they did write a series of books on other fish. Here are some links to where you can find them. Note that these are older books, so while a few are new for a reasonable price, you might want to consider getting a gently used one on some of the others. In any event, check Amazon for the best price as it can fluctuate.
We might as well roll right through with some other fishing books that I would consider “advanced.” What I mean by that is that these are highly technical books, not necessarily for the beginner, and probably not the best “bathroom reader” that you can pick up and digest a piece at a time. Nonetheless, if you are truly a student of this sport, these books are extremely helpful.
The Critical Concepts Fishing Book Series
Once again, we see In-Fisherman at the forefront. This time with their Critical Concepts series. These are much like the Fishing Masterpiece Series discussed above, but expanded considerably. I personally own their largemouth bass series but at some point will probably pick up their book series on walleye as well as crappie.
What I enjoy about these books is they break things down book by book so they can explore it in more detail than they did in the Fishing Masterpiece Series. Also some (though not all) of the books have color illustrations which is helpful especially when you’re discussing fishing lures, where variations in color can make a difference.
I wore the spine on these books out very quickly and learned a ton reading them. Once again, science is put to the forefront. For example, there’s an entire chapter in the largemouth bass series about tracking the species. Several graphs and considerable data is produced citing legitimate scientific studies. The insight from these is incredible and will help you be a better fisherman.
If you click the links in the first paragraph, you’ll be taken to the first book in each of these series. Note that there are several books in each series (I believe 3 for bass, 4 for walleye, and 2 for crappie). Make sure you check them all out. The second book in each series is about location, and this alone could save your fishing days or even pay for itself in terms of tournament wins or meals brought home.
High Percentage Fishing
Josh Alwine spent considerable time and effort bringing a true masterpiece into this world with High Percentage Fishing: A Statistical Approach to Improving Catch Rates. What he basically did is look at several prior works of big bass theory, specifically works by Doug Hannon, John Hope, and Bill Murphy (huge names in the industry). Alwine noticed that they disagreed with each other significantly, and tried to explain why.
To do so, he compiled a data set of 40,000 individual catches and started to piece together what it all meant. He cross referenced this data with historic weather data showing where these fish were caught – a truly monumental undertaking. By doing all of this work (he calls it “Piscemetrics”) he was able to draw some important conclusions about how, when, and where you can catch more and bigger fish.
You just don’t get this approach in most books and I appreciate the few that go to these levels. If Mr. Alwine had a blog, you can bet that this would be “epic shareable content” for sure. This amount of effort is incredible and we’re all very fortunate that this was written. As you can see from the photo below, mine is a well-used copy! Really, if science doesn’t scare you and you have an appreciation for what data can do, go pick this book up in the link above.
Easier Reading Fishing Books for Beginners
Not all fishing books are hard to read. Here’s a list of books that are much more digestible for the novice. They read much more like a conversation than a scientific journal, and the advice is excellent. There are plenty of books that fit this bill but a few that I think are important that you should start with are written by two of the masters: Kevin Van Dam and the late Homer Circle.
Kevin Van Dam’s Bass Strategies
It’s hard not to have a title written by the best bass fisherman of all time on this list. This book was first published when I was eleven years old and I found it a few years later. It was easy to read and conversational but importantly it broke down the basic concepts of fishing that you need to know. Cover vs. structure, forage, and the whole mystique of lures. My copy is the 1995 edition, but Kevin Van Dam’s Bass Strategies was updated in 2010 with more techniques and tips.
You’re not going to find (at least in the ’95 version) tons of data or graphs or scientific discussion. Instead you’re going to find practical advice about what works, and–importantly–little tweaks that you can make in your presentation that are going to go a long way. The book is structured almost like a blog post – lots of headings and subheadings to break up the text. This means you can pick it up and explore it in bits and pieces.
Bass Wisdom by Homer Circle
The late Homer Circle was a legend in the bass fishing community. Active for decades and a partner in crime with Glen Lau and the Bigmouth production, Homer Circle also was a routine contributor to Bassmaster Magazine. To say that he knew how to fish would be the greatest understatement on this blog. Bass Wisdom is another great fishing book that everyone should read. Luckily, it’s an easy enough read that everyone can.
There’s 32 chapters in the book which seems like a lot, but many are just a few pages long. They concentrate on different topics such as what sounds and colors make bass bite, and how to land them. Most of the questions that beginners would have about fishing are answered in this book. Again, it’s one of those books that you can pick up, quickly find what you need, and read a few pages before your fishing trip.
Various Fishing Book Series
There’s a whole world of great fishing books that you might not be aware of. Several different fishing clubs have printed a series of books over the years only available to their members. Three that I’ve found while scouring e-Bay for “fishing book lot” were published by B.A.S.S., The Hunting & Fishing Library, and North American Fishing Club.
If you search for any of these names, you’ll be taken to various websites that have some. I hesitate to provide a link because who knows if it will still be valid when you go to it (it’s hard to say with used books).
All I will tell you is that if you can find a bundle of these offered on eBay, you should buy them. They’re full color, very high detail, and for the most part easy reads. While there are plenty of concepts offered, pains are taken to make them accessible to all. You can pick them up and read a section here and there just fine.
My Fishing Book
I suppose I’ll leave it to others to say whether or not this is a “best” fishing book or not, but I did write one of my own. Fishing With Kids: A Parent’s Guide is designed to help parents take their kids out fishing. If you’ve never gone fishing on your own, this will walk you through how to do it. I talk about the gear you need, what techniques to use, and what fish to target. If you’re a fan of this blog and the way it’s written, I think you’ll enjoy it.
The Best Fishing Books for Kids
I’m more or less of the opinion that kids can handle any of the books I’ve already described. I know I had no issues reading any of them when I was little. I will admit, however, that kids tend to like books with a lot of pictures. Not all of the above have those.
One book that I’ve caught my five-year-old looking at frequently is out of print. It’s The Complete Freshwater Fisherman by Ten Pound Books. Published in 2006, it is filled to the top with interesting photographs and tips. It absolutely walks a child or other beginning angler through everything they’d need to know about fishing. You’ll learn to cast, hook, fight, and land fish.
It may interest you to hear that I’ve been working with a publisher to write a book on fishing for kids of my own. It’s due out towards the end of the summer and I’ll update this post when it arrives. If you’re interested in a free advanced copy, send me an email!
Note the above are just instructional fishing books for kids. If you’re interested in bedtime fishing stories for children, I did write another post about fishing books for kids where I went into some of my son and daughter’s favorites.
Conclusions
This was a fun post to write. It was great looking back and thumbing through all these books. It made me remember how fascinating it was the first time I read them. Whether you’re just getting into the sport or want to improve, I truly believe these books will help you. I know I didn’t list every book known to man, but these are the ones I think are actually worth reading. I hope you found it helpful.
Can I let my guard down and be open for a minute? I have to tell you, I don’t know if this article is going to gain traction. There’s this whole concept of “SEO” or “Search Engine Optimization” where people try to load up their posts with as many keywords and products as they can. This is why you see so many of these “best of” lists that basically have 30 things to choose from. I’m of the mind that you come to a “best of” post because you want to know just that! 17 of 30 seems rather ordinary to me!
Anyway, I decided to try and give you what you really wanted in this post. Did I succeed? Please let me know in the comments, or send me an email. I’m curious if you’d appreciate more posts with this structure in the future and feel they add value. You can also sound off on fishingfather’s Facebook page and tell me there. I’d appreciate the feedback!
When I was a little kid fishing with Dad, he used to tell me, “Keep your rod up high!” whenever I’d fight a fish. While this was pretty good advice for a kid (because otherwise, I’d probably point the rod tip straight at the fish and lose it), this is actually poor form for adults that can quickly break your fishing rod.
High sticking in fishing refers to raising the tip of the rod past 45 to 60 degrees when fighting a fish. This forces the rod to load up and bend much closer to the tip than it is designed to do. Since the tip of the rod is the most fragile part, high sticking your fishing rod can cause it to snap and break.
High sticking in fishing also occasionally refers to a technique used by fly fishermen where they raise their fly rods high in the air to minimize how much line touches the water. You’ll note that you’ll want to stop high sticking once a fish is on the hook, or you’re going to have the same issue with placing far too much pressure on the tip of your fly rod. This article focuses on the high sticking that can damage your fishing rod. Here’s another page you can visit if you’re interested in learning about how to present fishing flies with high sticking.
Drawbacks to High Sticking in Fishing
Very little good can come from high sticking in fishing. As mentioned, about the only benefit is it helps little kids remember to keep pressure on the fish and avoid allowing slack in the line. Then again, it’s extremely unlikely that children are going to hook the kind of fish who would snap a high sticked fishing pole, anyway. Here’s a few of the more likely outcomes.
Your Fishing Rod Will Snap
The most obvious issue with high sticking while fighting a fish is that your rod will snap. Most fishing rods aren’t designed to bend just at the tip. Instead they rely on the force of the fish being distributed across the entire blank evenly. If you fight a large enough fish and raise your rod tip too high, you invite catastrophe.
Consider this. If you had to catch something heavy, would rather use both hands, or one finger? It’s a very similar concept to high sticking. Keeping your rod at a bout a 45 to 60 degree angle will allow it to effectively absorb the fish’s shock and let your entire fishing rod work for you.
Your Fishing Line Might Break
If you’re lucky, your fishing line will break before your rod does when you’re high sticking. It’ll break for the same reason your rod might snap. Rather than having the entire length of the rod to work with and absorb pressure, your line will flex right at the tip. This is going to become all the more prevalent with the lighter the fishing line you use.
High Sticking Prevents the Fishing Rod From Tiring Fish Effectively
Every time your rod bends, it’s absorbing the fish’s energy and providing resistance. You want your entire rod providing this resistance so you can tire a fish effectively. High sticking your fishing pole during the fight is going to prevent it from working for you and against the fish. This in turn can lead to a longer time fighting the fish, where more things can go wrong.
The Fish Might Pull Off the Hook
If you raise your rod tip too high while fighting a fish, the rod can’t bend enough to absorb shock. That’s a big issue if you’re fishing with a lure that has thin treble hooks, like a crankbait. You really want your rod to flex and be forgiving when working with these lures because the thin metal can easily pull from a fish’s mouth. If you raise your rod tip up too high, it won’t flex enough and you might lose your fish.
High Sticking While Fighting Fish Makes Them More Likely to Jump
The last reason you don’t want to practice high sticking while fighting fish is that it makes them more likely to jump. When you raise your rod tip with a fish on the other end, you pull them closer to the surface. This can cause them to start jumping wildly to try and throw the hook. Fish have an excellent chance of breaking free when they jump, because the change in pressure can create some slack that allows a hook to fall out. The higher you keep your rod while fighting a fish, the greater the chance they’ll jump.
This is why you’ll see so many professional anglers get down low with their rod tips while fighting smallmouth and other large fish. That’s not to say that you don’t want to keep the pressure on the fish – they’ll have their rods set way back to maintain a good bend. It just means you want to avoid giving the fish any reason to jump and possibly ruin your day.
Conclusion: What’s Good Advice for Kids Isn’t Always Great for Adults
All in all, I think Dad’s advice to “keep your rod up high!” was good advice for me when I was a kid. For whatever reason, kids struggle with the concept of not pointing their rod tip right at the fish they’re trying to catch. Telling kids to use high sticking while fighting fish can help there, especially since kids also strugglewith listening to that. If you tell a kid to keep their rod up high, they’re pretty likely to keep it at about the 45 to 60 degree angle you really are seeking.
With that being said, if you’re an adult, you don’t want to raise your rod tip too high. While you can “pump” a rod sometimes by bringing it up quickly, you then need to quickly drop it down while reeling the slack. You don’t want to get into a situation where you’re leaving your fishing rod tip up too high for too long. It only takes one surge from a strong fish to ruin your day.
Hi there, friend. Are you stuck in some New England tax trap? Are you sitting in a state that you can’t bass fish year round? Perhaps you’re considering a move to the Lone Star state to cure your fishing woes, and refill your coffers? If you’re going to have a new stomping ground soon where you’ll need to figure out the best fishing spots. There’s few ways you can do that quicker than by joining a few online Texas fishing forums.
Why You Should Seek Out a Texas Fishing Forum
With a state as big as Texas with as many bass fishing lakes, you’re going to want to sign up for a fishing forum or two to cut your learning curve down a bit. After all, visiting a fishing forum is one of the best ways that you can improve your fishing skills in a hurry. Forums are, in my opinion, one of the best places to get honest information about what fish are biting on and where. While you’ll get plenty of folks who talk about “Lake X” you’ll get plenty more who are more than happy to tell you exactly how to catch them. The best part is the information stays there forever, date stamped and sortable so you can see if the best lures in, say, Texas in April held up year after year after year.
Another great benefit of joining a fishing forum is the community. I’ve been a member of several forums for fishing and other hobbies over the past twenty years. I have formed legitimate real life friendships as a result of these. I’ve helped people out and been helped in turn. While you always have to be careful about meeting people from the internet, chances are that many Texans on these fishing forums are going to be in local bass clubs too. You might just meet a new fishing buddy who could teach you a trick or two.
Popular Texas Fishing Forums
Regardless of if you bass fish or like to go inshore in the Gulf of Mexico, with your family or alone in a kayak, there’s a fishing forum in Texas that caters to you. Here’s a few of the best ones I could find across the internet:
Texas Fishing Forum
The largest fishing forum in Texas that I’ve found is the aptly named texasfishingforum.com. This is an impressive space. Their motto is “The best place in Texas to Talk Fishing,” and it seems that plenty of anglers agree. As of writing, there’s well over 29,000 threads for freshwater fishing with an additional 13,000 for saltwater. That would be impressive enough, but if you’re specifically looking for at Texas bass fishing forum, there’s a whopping 176,000+ threads devoted to that species.
Texas Fishing Forum has subforums dedicated to crappie, striped bass, catfish, rough fish, bluegill and sunfish, as well as an entire section just for fishing from the bank. There’s also an inshore and offshore forums for fishing in Texas. Finally, there is a section for fishing reports for all.
There are forums for kayak fishing, boating, electronics, as well as a classifieds section. If you’re not opposed to some civil debate, there is a moderated off topic section with over 3 million posts (just be nice so you don’t wind up on their Wall of Shame)!
The forums are extremely active, with almost every sub forum having activity each day and the longest delay observed as being about a week. If you’re looking for a good fishing forum in Texas, I’d start here.
2CoolFishing
Another huge fishing forum devoted to Texan anglers is 2coolfishing.com. It’s not quite as large as Texas Fishing Forum but is nothing to sniff at, either. While there is a very large freshwater fishing section (including a sub-fishing forum devoted to catching catfish in Texas), the main draw seems to be saltwater forums. There’s a general saltwater fishing discussion board with over 3/4 of a million replies, and a very large sub-forum devoted exclusively to Texas tarpon fishing.
This is actually a pretty good forum even if you don’t like fishing. There’s a lot of great information about Texas in their more general boards. They have over 20 sub-forums for different hobbies that have nothing to do with fishing but might be up your alley.
This too is a very active forum, with almost all of the subsections replied to recently. Only only a few very niche boards going for an extended period of time without a reply.
Bass Boats Central
While it’s not technically a fishing forum devoted to one state, there is a forum devoted to Texas on bbcboards.net. There are 541 pages of different threads to be found here. Most of these have relatively few replies but a few with as many as 332. If you’re specifically looking for a bass fishing forum, this is a good place for that as this entire message board is devoted to bass boats.
Fish Explorer
Fishexplorer.com has a section devoted to the Lone Star State. It’s interesting because many of the posts have a “BLOG” category associated with them. This is a little different than many forums you might be used to. Reading through a few of these, they make for some very detailed fishing reports with photos and descriptions. They don’t always have the easiest title to understand what they’ll discuss, but it might be worth spending some time reading through.
Texas Kayak Fisherman
If you want a fishing forum that focuses on kayak fishing in Texas, texaskayakfisherman.com is your new home. This is a very large forum with sections for both freshwater and saltwater fishing, as well as a subforum specifically for north Texas bass fishing. The forums are very active, with most message boards having recent posts. There’s plenty to read, with some of the boards having over 66,000 topics. It does seem that there is more of a focus on saltwater fishing, as there’s over four times as many posts there compared to freshwater. If you’re specifically looking for a Texas bass fishing forum, there is a small section on texaskayakfisherman.com, but it doesn’t seem to be the focus.
FishingTx
A smaller forum but one devoted to family fishing and with a special place for God, fishingtx.com tries to keep things friendly and civil. As their politics section has a whopping 9 threads, so this seems to be working! While there are a number of sub forums, some of the more niche haven’t seen much activity for a bit. Nonetheless, the main fishing pages as well as the chaplain’s corner are quite active.
Conclusions
I’m sure there’s more out there, but these are the more active Texas fishing forums I found. As you can see, there is a diverse line up and different groups will appeal to different anglers. If you’re new to the state, I’d definitely recommend signing up for a few and introducing yourself. I’ve been visiting various forums for years and they really produce a true sense of community. You can make some lifelong friends out there and better yet some new fishing buddies.
If you know of another Texas fishing forum that I’ve missed, post a comment about why they should be included. I’ll consider updating the post if the new group has activity and is helpful.
Every spring when I head up to Lake Champlain for the first few fishing trip, I’m faced with a dilemma. I look at my tackle box and have to decide on a Jerkbait vs. Crankbait combo. No matter which I choose, I’m usually vexed wondering if the other would have been the better lure for the trip. Both are amazing lures for catching fish, especially early in the year, and are some of the best fishing lures for beginners, period. I always have a rod tied with each right on the deck to start each trip. Let’s discuss why you should too.
What Is a Jerkbait?
A jerkbait is a long and slender lure that resembles a minnow and has 2-3 treble hooks. Depending on the model, it might sink, float, or suspend, but all are intended to be retrieved horizontally through the water column. While you could simply reel a jerkbait in, or troll one behind your boat, they really shine when you start jerking and snapping them through the water as their name suggests. This erratic action makes jerkbaits look like dying, fleeing, or otherwise distressed baitfish. Bass, northern pike, chain pickerel, walleye, and even large crappie can’t resist, and almost hop into your boat!
How to Fish a Jerkbait
There are several ways to fish a jerkbait. You can reel it in, and it’ll basically act as a shallow crankbait with a tight wobble. Likewise, you can troll them behind a boat, and they’ll stay straight and true enticing fish. The preferred method, and how they got their namesake, is to snap or jerk them through the water. This creates slack in the line which should be slowly reeled in before snapping again.
The main trick to working a jerkbait is figuring out the cadence of your snaps. In warmer water, a faster cadence often produces fish. Indeed, it can provide outstanding action as fish compete with each other to attack the lure. In colder water, however, you’ll often do better by slowing down your retrieve. At ice out, I’ve had days where I will literally pause a jerkbait for 10-20 seconds before I give it oh so small of a little twitch to try and entice a bite. Sometimes that’s what it takes to get sluggish fish to commit.
Note that regardless of the time of year, you’ll need to give it at least one good snap as soon as it hits the water to get it down to depth, especially if it is a suspending or floating model. Jerkbaits have a bill on them much like a crankbait that allows them to dive, and the quickest way to get them underwater is with a pretty heavy snap at first.
Types of Jerkbaits: Floating vs. Suspending vs. Sinking
While there are dozens if not hundreds of jerkbaits out there on the market, most boil down to one of three types:
Floating jerkbaits
Suspending jerkbaits
Sinking jerkbaits
As you could probably guess, they get their name from the way they act in the water. A floating jerkbait floats. A sinking model sinks. Suspending jerkbaits are neutrally buoyant, so after you jerk them down to the appropriate level, they’ll suspend or float in the water column at rest.
This allows you to tailor the action to what you need to achieve. A sinking jerkbait could patiently be used to slowly fall down to bass holding at great depths. A floating model could be worked around cover with the reasonable expectation of being retrieved when necessary. A suspending one could be placed directly in the fish’s face until it couldn’t stand it any more and bit.
Best Floating Jerkbaits
Floating jerkbaits are quite useful anytime bass are schooling on the surface. If you would have success with a topwater, you will have success with a floating jerkbait fished just below the surface. You could even use the lure as a topwater bait if you really wanted to, but you’ll probably be better off mimicking a fish the bass have trapped at the surface.
When it comes to what is the best floating jerkbait, I favor the Rapala Original Floater. It’s very hard to argue with a lure that has been in production so long. Manufacturers aren’t going to back a loser for that long, so you know this lure sells. Fishermen too won’t back a loser for more than an hour, so you know this lure catches fish!
I’ve found that floating jerkbaits aren’t the best lure for just after ice out or when the bass are really sluggish. It’s hard to keep these lures in the strike zone for a long enough pause as they start rising immediately. I’d keep them in the tackle box until the water warms a bit.
Best Suspending Jerkbaits
My favorite jerkbaits both suspend. I like suspending jerkbaits because they’ll just sit there in the water, allowing current to move them enticingly in-between my snaps and twitches. While I do need to impart a pretty good initial snap to get them to depth, once there, they stay right where I want them for the entire retrieve.
The main suspending jerkbait in my tackle box is a Rapala X-Rap. I prefer a size 10 X-Rap for bass and pike, but I do have a couple smaller ones that I tie on if I’m trying to catch larger sunfish or crappie. X-Raps cast a mile, catch every fish possible and–importantly–hold up very well. They use sturdy hooks and the worst that’s going to happen is some of the tail feathers get ripped out. You can purchase replacement feathered treble hooks, but you really won’t need to replace them that often as this is a sturdy bait. This is truly a 100-fish lure.
Best Sinking Jerkbaits
When it comes to sinking jerkbaits, I also favor Rapala. This time it’s the Rapala Shadow Rap. Let me tell you, when this lure came on the market in 2015, it set my fishing trips on fire. I couldn’t keep bass from biting it. Point in fact, the very first trip I took with one I hooked two small bass at the same time, sent my wife the picture, and said, “Yeah, we’re buying more of these.”
Rapala Shadow Raps have this subtle sinking action where they turn slightly on the pause. I’ve found this makes them absolute dynamite lures especially early in the year. My only issue with them is that there hooks are so thin that they tend to get smashed up extremely easily. They are often bent and compressed to the point where trying to restore their shape with pliers only breaks them. It’s a good problem to have, as it means a large fish bit, but you aren’t going to get near as many strikes out of one of these as an X-Rap.
While I haven’t used it, when researching this article, I stumbled across the Rapala Countdown Lure and am intrigued. Apparently, this lure sinks at a predetermined rate (I’m not sure if this is size dependent, but the one I was reading about sunk at 1′ per second). This would allow you to precisely target fish at the depth they’re holding and could be an amazing way to target some deeper midwater humps come summer.
Deep Diving Jerkbaits
Several types of jerkbaits come with larger lips that will allow them to dive deeper per jerk. This can be useful if you know a particular sunken hump is a certain depth and you want to consistently run jerkbaits by it. The natural lakes I fish don’t have too many of these so I don’t have much experience using them, but some guys swear by deep jerkbaits.
Best Jerkbait Colors
I only bother with two colors for jerkbaits and as I said, I have one tied on the entire year, catching fish. I use clown and yellow perch. Clown is a great color any time the water is murky as it provides enough flash to call fish in from far, but isn’t so gaudy that the more wary turn their noses up. Yellow perch is a good natural color that mimics typical prey in northern lakes. If you don’t have yellow perch in your clearer lakes, I’d suggest matching the hatch as best you can. Every other lure in the world works great in white and I have no doubt jerkbaits would too, but I’m really trying a more minimalist approach to fishing, so these two colors work for me.
Best Time to Use Jerkbaits
There’s this misconception out there that the only time you should use jerkbaits is during the spring. In fact, jerkbaits will work all year long. They perfectly mimic a dying and distressed baitfish that needs to be culled from the school. Fish don’t suddenly start ignoring these signals once the water heats up.
The reason why spring typically gets the nod as the best time of year to use jerkbaits is because there’s less weed cover, and most fish are shallow. Jerkbaits are difficult to use in the summer because many of the places that hold fish either have weeds or are much deeper than jerkbaits typically reach. Jerkbaits are very difficult to fish in weedy areas because of the way they are worked. Each snap of the rod more or less ensures fouling your hooks on some gunk. Likewise, while there are some “deep diving” jerkbaits, these typically top out around 10-12 feet. This isn’t much use when the fish are significantly deeper. In such cases, you’d be better off going with a crankbait vs. a jerkbait, as the crankbait can reach them.
A further reason why people tend to say early spring is the best time to use jerkbaits is because they are one of the few effective lures that time of year. Spinnerbaits don’t produce as many bites until the water warms to around 60 degrees. Jerkbaits can be used right from ice out and will produce hits. This is because jerkbaits (and especially suspending jerkbaits) can be worked extremely slow. Fish have slow metabolisms early in the year and are unlikely to chase anything down a long distance. You need to get your lure right in their face and have it sit there sometimes. Jerkbaits are outstanding for this.
Best Line for Jerkbaits
I personally fish jerkbaits on 20lb test Power Pro braided fishing line. I like the way that the lure snaps through the water when I’m jerking it through as this line doesn’t stretch. Since it has a thin diameter, it also helps get jerkbaits down a little deeper. I do set the drag on my reel a little looser to account for all of this and to prevent too many fish from pulling off.
Many anglers prefer using fluorocarbon. For example, Kevin VanDam, one of the best jerkbait fishermen to ever throw the plug, prefers flourocarbon line while fishing with jerkbaits. He uses everything from 8 – 20lb test, with lighter line being used when he wants to get the bait down deeper, and heavier to help keep it running higher.
Jerkbaits for Bass?
Largemouth and smallmouth bass love jerkbaits. They’re one of the best lures for catching these fish assuming you can work them without fouling on weeds. During the pre-spawn period, jerkbaits are some of the best lures, bar none to catch bass. I’ve found that smallmouth seem to prefer a jerkbait vs. a crankbait during pre-spawn. I judge this based on the fact that I catch far more smallies on jerkbaits than I do when I break out some crankbaits.
Best Size Jerkbait for Bass?
I’ve found that largemouth and smallmouth bass prefer a jerkbait that is about 4″ long. This represents a good-sized meal to both species and also matches the hatch well. It could represent a very large minnow, or a small enough perch to eat.
Jerkbaits for Summer Bass
Jerkbaits are productive lures year round for largemouth bass. While some anglers think you can’t throw them in the summer, this is incorrect. They’re very productive lures any time of the year given how well they mimic distressed prey. The only trick is that in the summer, many bass stage in either very deep water, or very deep cover. A jerkbait isn’t always the best lure for either situation. Crankbaits are often better for reaching deeper bass while something weedless, such as a frog, would do better if largemouth bass are in deep vegetation.
Jerkbait Leaders
When fishing for northern pike with jerkbaits, using a leader can save a lot of money. Jerkbaits aren’t exactly the cheapest lure out there, and with northern pike and muskie jerkbaits being some of the most expensive, you’re going to want to use a jerkbait leader. I would highly recommend having a leader that is at least as long as the lure if not longer. If you go with a leader that is shorter than the lure, there’s a good chance it will catch the hooks and foul the action, which will be frustrating.
Best Jerkbait Rod?
While this is a personal decision, most anglers recommend a shorter rod (6′ to 6’6″) when fishing jerkbaits. A shorter rod makes it easier to get a strong jerk/snap out of your lures with hitting the bank or gunwale on your boat.
I personally favor a spinning rod when fishing jerkbaits because the reel hangs underneath the rod. I find this helps the rod balance better. Also, most of the time I’m throwing jerkbaits, it’s early in the spring when the winds are absolutely chaotic. Using a spinning rod allows me to make long casts with a jerkbait right into the wind without worrying about backlashes. Finally, it’s much easier to use lighter line with a narrower diameter with a spinning rod than a baitcaster. For all these reasons, spinning rods are my tackle of choice when fishing jerkbaits.
I throw so many jerkbaits that I have a very nice rod dedicated to them: a 6’6″ medium power, fast action St. Croix Legend Extreme. The St. Croix Legend Elite is pricey, but it weighs so little that I can fish this intensive technique all day without issue. I literally have one of these lures tied to it the entire year and use nothing else. If you’re not willing to spend that kind of money, I used a St. Croix Avid series for years (again, 6’6″ medium power / fast action). I know some guys prefer rods with a moderate action like a crankbait rod, but this makes the jerks/snaps too sluggish for my taste.
Bear in mind that St. Croix rods very rarely go on sale at the big box stores (I’d venture to say never, but you never say that), so this is a rod you can absolutely buy on Amazon with all their convenience and no regrets that some other shop might have a better price. Check out the links above to be throwing jerkbaits two days from now!
What Is a Crankbait?
A crankbait is a short and stocky plug that usually has two treble hooks. It can have a large bill for diving deep into the water, or be “lipless” and designed to run in a straight line. The bill of a crankbait pulls it to its target running depth and the faster you reel it in at first, the faster it’ll get to that depth. Very popular with bass anglers, crankbaits are also known to catch northern pike, chain pickerel, crappie, and walleye.
How to Fish a Crankbait
Crankbaits are good fishing lures for beginners because all you need to do to use a crankbait is toss it out and work it back in. Literally, just cast the crankbait out, then reel it back to your boat or shore. Doing this alone will catch fish (assuming it doesn’t foul on some weeds or other refuse).
That’s not the only way how to work a crankbait, of course. A much better way how to to use a crankbait would be to do your best to bang it into just about everything you can on the way home. This seems very counter-intuitive (and is a great way to lose a lot of lures when fishing from shore), but each time you smack that crankbait into a rock or branch, it deflects off wildly, driving fish nuts.
Even if you’re fishing open water, you’d be well-served by creating some “deflections” of your own. While you won’t have anything to run the crankbait into, make sure you work in some pops or twitches with your rod trip as you work it back.
How To Reel a Crankbait
Crankbaits need to be reeled in rapidly at first to reach their diving depth. A faster retrieve will get them down to the correct depth quickly, from where you can slow things down and keep them in the strike zone longer. This is why you’ll find that many fishermen prefer to use a baitcasting reel with the handle on whichever side they can reel the fastest.
Do You Use a Swivel with Crankbaits?
I don’t like using snap swivels with crankbaits, but I am a big fan of using snaps. You can use a snap on your crankbaits without worrying about scaring fish, or other issues. Indeed, the snap makes fishing with crankbaits easy as you can swap them out to try different colors and running depths. Snaps also are useful with crankbaits in that they give the more wobbly ones an even wider wobble, which can be more enticing for fish.
Lipless vs. Squarebill vs. Deep Diving Crankbaits
Crankbaits tend to fall into three main categories:
Lipless crankbaits, that have no bill to pull them under and can be retrieved horizontally.
Squarebill crankbaits designed to deflect off of cover in shallow water.
Deep diving crankbaits with giant bills designed to reach maximum depth where summer bass live.
All have their pros and cons and belong in your tackle box.
Best Lipless Crankbaits
Two of the more common lipless crankbaits are also the best: the Rat-L-Trap and the Red Eye Shad. Both have been around for years though the former makes the latter look like a baby. Rat-L-Traps in particular have really impressed me recently. There once was a time when you could pick up an entire bag of used Rat-L-Traps on eBay for pennies, they were so common. Now, the new ones come with some quality components such as Mustad hooks that stand up to fish after fish after fish.
The Red Eye Shad is another one of Kevin VanDam’s sponsored lures. As with all of his stuff, it works as he’s putting his name on it. You’ll also routinely find him fishing this stuff in tournaments. Now, KVD is a legendary angler and he could probably get an unpainted block of wood bit, but it’s a vote of confidence all the same.
How to Use a Crankbait in Weeds
Weeds make fishing with crankbaits difficult, because their treble hooks like to catch on each and every plant. I would suggest using a lipless crankbait when fishing in the weeds, as it doesn’t have a lip that will pull it down towards the vegetation. Instead, you can more or less control how deep it will or won’t dive by the angle of your rod tip. One of the best things you can do with a lipless crankbait is run it so it the treble hooks just tick the top of some submerged weeds as you burn it back to the boat. This causes the crankbait to pause for a moment and then snap forward with a lunge. It has the same effect as fishing in rocks with a squarebill, deflecting off every obstruction you find.
Best Squarebill Crankbaits
I’m personally a fan of the Strike King KVD 1.5 squarebill (click the photo for more of a description). There are more expensive ones out there, for sure, but these have been consistent producers for me over the years. Once upon a time you couldn’t get the rattling ones anywhere but Bass Pro Shops, but now they’re available on Amazon. While I suppose there’s a time for a silent crankbait, that time is not on the dingy waters I fish, so I almost always prefer a rattle.
Best Deep Diving Crankbaits
The best deep diving crankbait for your situation is going to depend entirely on how deep you need it to go. I’m going to assume you want a deep diving crankbait 15′ or more. That would put you in the realm of the Strike King Pro Model 5XD. I like this because it only weights 5/8 oz. yet will reach those depths. Many deep diving crankbaits are considerably larger which makes them difficult to fish on all but the stoutest tackle. This is a good compromise lure.
How to Use Deep Diving Crankbaits
As with all crankbaits, the name of the game when fishing with deep diving ones is to try and get them to deflect off cover. To do this, you need to use a crankbait that dives just a bit deeper than the cover is. While this will cause some hang ups, it will also produce a number of strikes.
Some anglers use a crankbait technique called long lining to get more depth out of their lures. Let’s say you knew there was an underwater hump at a particular point. You’d want to cast well beyond it but not engage (lock) your spool. You’d then take your trolling motor and move the boat away from your lure, without engaging the spool. Once you got a bit of a distance away, you’d reel in as fast as you can. This would allow the lure to go much deeper than you could achieve on a normal cast.
When To Use Crankbaits
Crankbaits are one of those lures that start working very well in the pre-spawn. Even though they are a bit of a “fast” lure, they aren’t burned as quickly as a spinnerbait and so you can trigger some hits from otherwise sluggish fish. Also the deflections off cover are simply too much for fish to handle. These deflections do a few things. One, they stop the crankbait for a moment, often right in front of a fish’s face. Two, this often elicits a jarring reaction strike.
Best Time to Use Crankbaits
Most people use crankbaits during the day. If they get hung up, it’s much easier to retrieve them if you can see what you’re doing. If you’re going to use crankbaits at night, I’d go with much darker colors, like black, and I’d make sure that the crankbait had some sort of rattle to help fish home in on it.
Best Line for Crankbaits
Fluorocarbon is widely considered to be the best fishing line for crankbaits. Fluorocarbon has several advantages when fishing crankbaits. First, it sinks, which is what you want with these lures. Secondly, it has less stretch than monofilament, which will allow a good hook set even if a fish bites 15′ below the surface. Finally, the abrasion resistance of the type is useful with crankbaits given that they spend so much time banging into and next to rocks.
How to Use a Crankbait for Bass
Using a crankbait for bass is no different than working a crankbait for any other fish. You cast it out, reel it in, and try to bang into any cover you can along the way. Go ahead and dig that lure into the dirt a bit – the bass will love the commotion and come nail it.
If you get into an area that holds bass, they’re going to bite a crankbait, period. The only question is whether or not you can cast and retrieve it without being hung up.
Best Size Crankbait for Bass
Using the KVD squarebills as a guide, they come in sizes ranging from 1.0 (3/8 oz.) to 8.0 (1.5 oz.). I get that people think “bigger lure, bigger fish” and I suppose sometimes that may be so, but I’ll tell you what – I’ve never had an issue catching huge largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, or northern pike on a 1.5-sized crankbait (7/16 oz. to 3/8 oz.). This is a good compromised size that most fish view as a good meal. You’ll catch quantity and quality with it.
Crankbait Leaders
It’s uncommon to see people using a leader with a crankbait unless they’re specifically fishing for northern pike or muskie. With that said, crankbaits are one lure that does well enough attached to a snap, so many purpose-built leaders will work. I’d personally recommend going with fluorocarbon leaders so that you don’t scare any line-shy bass more than you have to.
Best Crankbait Rod?
Crankbaits are one technique where a fiberglass rod is really going to shine. This is for a few reasons. First, a fiberglass rod will allow you to really load up on your cast and fling that crankbait a good distance. This is important because the further your cast, the deeper the crankbait can reach on its retrieve. Fiberglass rods also work well with crankbaits because they are “mushier” and more forgiving of a strike than graphite rods. You’re less likely to rip the thin treble hooks out of a fish’s mouth if you use a fiberglass rod.
Must-Have Tools When Fishing Jerkbaits or Crankbaits
There are a few tools that are going to make your life considerably easier when fishing with jerkbaits or crankbaits. These fishing tools will save you time, money, and aggravation. If you don’t already own them, I’d really consider picking them up before your next time on the water.
Lure Retriever
You’ll have noticed that I’ve spent considerable time in this article telling you to slam your crankbaits into any obstruction you can find. Well, on occasion they get stuck doing that. The technique works so well for catching fish that you can’t ignore it, but it can also get incredibly expensive in a hurry. With many crankbaits costing anywhere from $5 to $15 if not more, it can add up in a hurry. That’s why you should purchase a lure retriever today. I keep one on my boat at all times, and it only takes 4-5 retrieved lures to pay for itself.
The one I linked to extends to a length of 18′. While this may seem excessive consider that it’s not always depth that you need to worry about. You may well find that you’re running your crankbait across rocky shorelines that you aren’t crazy about bringing your boat up to. Being able to have a little extra length to reach lures horizontally also helps.
Split Ring Pliers
A good set of split ring pliers really makes your life a lot easier. Some jerkbaits and crankbaits have very thin hooks that don’t hold up well to fish. Split ring pliers are indispensable for swapping out hooks in a hurry. This set even comes with spare split rings, which is good as sometimes they break or deform when you’re trying to take them off or put them on.
Conclusion: When To Use a Jerkbait vs. a Crankbait
Jerkbaits and crankbaits are two of my favorite fishing lures. While I wouldn’t recommend either when fishing with kids, they can’t be beat when the adults are in the boat. I know many anglers think jerkbaits are only for the pre-spawn, but I’ve had success with them year round. They mimic a dying or distressed baitfish so well that there’s no logical reason why a bass wouldn’t eat them all year. The only issue is that they can be hard to fish in weeds, and in many places, bass use weeds as their primary cover come summer. Even so, if you can find little pockets and have accurate casts, jerkbaits could be very good to you.
Crankbaits are also great year round. They even come more into their own over the summer, when some larger bass go much deeper than most jerkbaits can reach. It’s challenging to think of a better lure that can reach the depths of many submerged humps and cover water as effectively and quickly as a crankbait.
I’d recommend that you keep both in your tackle box at all times. I know I have rods rigged with each throughout the year, and they tend to get a lot of action each fishing trip.
I hope this article was helpful. Thanks for reading!
If you fish near northern pike, sharp rocks, or very clear water, you probably haven’t asked what is the purpose of a leader in fishing. However, you might want to know how to make a fishing leader, or how to tie a fishing leader onto your main line. If so, keep reading, as this article will discuss the reasons you’d want a fishing leader as well as how to make them and tie them onto your main line.
Why Use a Leader When Fishing?
There are several great reasons to use a leader when fishing. The most common are the desire to make your line less visible, the need for greater abrasion resistance, as some protection against sharp teeth, to use less fishing line overall, and to act as a shock absorber which allows you to throw heavier baits and fight heavier fish.
Invisibility
Braided fishing line sticks out like a sore thumb to a fish. Fluorocarbon line is nearly invisible. If you’re fishing in ultra clear water, it stands to reason that you might do better with a fluorocarbon leader than you would with straight braid, at least around line-shy species. You need a leader for bass fishing if the bass are highly pressured, as they will spook easily. Why give them one more reason?
Abrasion Resistance
One of the main reasons why you should use a leader when fishing (and especially fluorocarbon ones) is that it’ll add extra abrasion resistance to your line. Monofilament can scuff up easily. Braid, while super strong on a straight pull, can be sliced and cut by sharp rocks. A leader made from fluorocarbon again provides the answer. This will give you some peace of mind while you pull your bait past barnacles and rip rap.
Protection from Teeth
Perhaps the main purpose of a leader in fishing is to protect your line from sharp-smiled menaces like northern pike and chain pickerel. Their teeth can easily slice through fishing line and ruin your day. In this case, fluorocarbon might not be enough. You may want to use a wire fishing leader made from steel or titanium instead.
It Can Save You Money on Fishing Line
Fishing leaders can save you money if you play your cards right. I tie directly to my lures rather than using a snap swivel, and this means that I can go through a bit of line each year. Consider this – every time my line gets a little frayed, or even if I just want to change lures, I’m cutting off and losing at least a foot or so of line, maybe more. On the other hand, if I used a long enough leader to start (call it 2′ or so), then I could get through a couple of reties with that before I had to snip the main line. Over time, it’ll add up.
Shock Absorption
Some people rig up their fishing gear with “shock leaders.” These are a bit different than the traditional fishing leader in that they are considerably longer, and have a different purpose. Often used in surf fishing where hefty baits are flung great distances, a shock leader is about 30′ of considerably heavier fishing line tied to your main line. Its purpose is to absorb the shock that your weighted lures and bait will produce while being cast, so the forces produced while casting don’t snap the lighter main line instantly.
Note that the same concept of shock absorption that applies to casting will also apply to catching significantly heavier fish. Many people claim to have caught fish on low-test line. What some don’t tell you is that they were using a much heavier leader.
Why Should You Use a Shock Leader?
Any time that you need to make long-range casts, you’re going to need a heavy enough bait to load the road and achieve this. Using a shock leader allows you to get away with using much heavier line for the leader than your spool can normally handle, which in turn allows for heavier weight.
While you often hear about shock leaders for surf casting, they’d also come in handy if you were trying to fling heavily weighted bait for into a river for catfish or other large freshwater quarry.
What Type of Line Makes the Best Shock Leaders?
Because the purpose of a shock leader is to absorb the force of casting, you’re going to want a line that stretches well. This makes monofilament the best choice for the job, as it stretches much more than fluorocarbon or braid.
How Heavy of Line Should I Use for My Shock Leader?
This is going to depend on how much weight you need to cast. About 10lb of line strength per ounce of fishing rig seems to be a good balance. Just remember that this doesn’t just account for your sinker – you also need to think of the weight of the bait, hook, and any bells and whistles attached to it. When you consider how much current the ocean or a river can push, you might have quite a hefty sinker indeed which would require a considerably-sized shock leader.
How Long Should My Shock Leader Be?
You need enough length so that it can actually absorb whatever shock you’re going to put it through. If you tie it too short, it won’t be able to stretch enough to do this, and you’ll just be wasting time and gear. For this reason, you’re going to need to tie on a good amount – something like 30 feet or so. This is certainly a leader that is going to wrap around your spool several times – not one that’ll dangle past your last line guide on a cast. This could necessitate a fishing rod with larger eyes. Then again, if you’re using this technique to go for giant fish, that’s probably a given.
How to Use a Shock Leader Carp Fishing
Carp are a really good example of a time when you’d use a shock leader in freshwater fishing. These fish have an annoying habit of hanging out just out of reach of most casts unless you use a heavily weighted bait. All the same concepts of using a shock leader for surf fishing also apply to carp, and this can be a great way to get your bait past where most of your competition has offered carp a snack. In small ponds that don’t see a lot of boats, this could, in theory, get your bait past the fish’s perceived “danger zone” and into an area where they aren’t as hook shy.
How to Make a Fishing Leader
A fishing leader can be as simple as a length of sturdy fluorocarbon or pliable wire tied to the main line with a double uni knot. However, some people prefer to add a swivel between their leader and the main line to minimize line twist. In that case, you can mass-produce leaders ahead of time simply by tying them to swivels. Just make sure you use a large enough swivel that it’ll be able to spin, yet small enough that it can pass through your line guides if you need it to while casting. It can be very difficult to cast with too much line dangling from your rod tip!
Some people like to use a snap swivel on the other end of their leader (where it will attach to the lure or hook). Many store-bought leaders come this way. If you want to do this, simply tie the other end of your leader onto a snap swivel.
How to Tie a Fishing Leader
The question of how to put a leader on fishing line depends on how that leader was constructed. If you bought a pack of leaders from the store, they likely have a barrel swivel attached to one end of them. Attaching them to your fishing line is as easy as tying your favorite knot.
It gets more complicated when you start asking how to tie a leader on fishing line when that leader doesn’t have a swivel attached to it. You basically have two options:
Tie a swivel on yourself.
Join the leader and the line together with a knot that doesn’t require a swivel.
Each has their advantages. In my opinion, a swivel is just one more thing that can fail. On the other hand, it minimizes line twist and is easier to use, especially if you want to mass produce leaders ahead of time. This is advantageous in that you don’t need to mess around with them on a windy day on a rocking boat.
How to Tie A Wire Leader
One of the easier ways to tie a wire leader is to use the haywire twist. This is quick and easy to tie and strong. To tie it, you’ll push about 6″ or so of wire through the eye of your fishing hook. Then, you’ll form a loop with the wire. You want to hold the eye of the hook as well as this loop while simultaneously twisting both the tag end and main line so that they corkscrew around each other and catch. If you don’t do this, and you only twist one end of the line around the other, it will simply spiral and will slip when a fish bites. Once you’ve done 5-6 corkscrews, you then can twist the tag line around the main another 4-5 times. Make this very tight.
The video below is how I learned to do this and it does a great job of showing you exactly how to do the technique. The photo you see before you play the video illustrates very well the difference between the corkscrews and the twist. As you can see, the corkscrews lock the wire together, giving it strength. It’s also easy to see how simply twisting the wire wouldn’t work with any decent sized fish.
How to Attach Wire Leader to Fishing Line
How to Tie a Leader on Braided Fishing Line
I prefer to use a double uni knot when tying braided fishing line to a fluorocarbon leader. It’s a strong knot that is easy to tie, even in the wind, and holds up well. I use it for everything from joining leaders and fishing line together to fixing broken shoelaces on the fly. To tie it, follow these steps:
Take your two lines and lay them next to each other, parallel. Make an overhead loop with each around the other (Figure 1).
Spiral the tag line of each around the two lines on the inside of the loop 6-7 times (Figure 2).
Pull each tag line taut to form a uni knot (Figure 3).
Pull both main lines together to snug the two uni knots up against each other (Figure 4).
Because largemouth and smallmouth bass lack sharp teeth, using a leader isn’t strictly necessary when bass fishing. Even so, you might need a leader for bass fishing when you’re in very clear water, near very abrasive structure, or when fishing in areas inhabited by toothy predators like northern pike or chain pickerel.
Fluorocarbon line makes a great leader for bass fishing. It is nearly invisible under the water, which makes it great while fishing in very clear lakes. It has great abrasive resistance, which makes it a good leader material if you’re fishing near rock piles. Finally, while it isn’t metal, it will stand up to sharp teeth from bycatches like northern pike and pickerel better than a braided or monofilament main line.
Should You Use a Leader with a Spinnerbait?
As a rule, I don’t worry about leaders when I’m fishing spinnerbaits. This is because the bent wire frame offers your line decent protection from teeth. Further, spinnerbaits are typically worked so fast that they produce reaction strikes. Fish don’t have time to notice your line and realize something is wrong. I’d argue you can get away without a leader for spinnerbaits.
Should You Use a Leader with Topwater Lures?
Honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it, but if you do, it had better be monofilament. You don’t want to use fluorocarbon fishing line or leaders while using topwater lures because fluorocarbon sinks. While it probably won’t be enough to submerge your entire lure, it could sink enough to pull their nose down and kill their action. If you find you’re losing too many topwater lures to pike or pickerel, you might want to upsize your lure to something like a Devil’s Horse that has a better chance of surviving the odd Esox strike.
Should You Use a Leader with a Jerkbait?
In general, a leader shouldn’t negatively affect a jerkbait’s action. Indeed, jerkbaits make outstanding lures for northern pike, and are often fished with wire leaders. This is fine, but make sure that your leader is longer than the jerkbait itself so that it won’t get hung up on the hooks. Since several northern pike jerkbaits can be as much as 8-12″ long, you’re going to want a leader at least this length if not longer.
Can I Use Regular Fishing Line as a Leader?
Yes, you certainly can. While you can buy a spool of purpose-built “leader material” fluorocarbon, there’s nothing wrong with simply using some regular fishing line as a leader. Indeed, you’d be hard-pressed to notice any difference, at least while freshwater fishing. Using regular fishing line like fluorocarbon as your leader is convenient and will save you money. You’ll note that the purpose-built stuff is more expensive yard for yard. Further, you’ll get all the same benefits: abrasion resistance, reduced visibility, and a bit better protection against teeth.
Conclusions
If you’ll be fishing in very clear waters, or those with pike or pickerel, you’re going to want to learn how to make a fishing leader. As mentioned, there are several great reasons why you should use a leader while fishing, and most of them boil down to a simple fact: it’ll help you hook (and land) more fish. Fluorocarbon’s near-invisibility will help you hook line shy fish. The abrasion resistance and ability to withstand teeth of leaders of various material will help to prevent your fishing line from snapping. Finally, leaders can absorb some of the shock of hefty casts, allowing you to reach fishing grounds beyond the reach of most anglers from the bank. In short, you would do well to keep some leader material in your tackle box, and use it when it makes sense.
Thanks,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
Am I the only guy who likes fishing for chain pickerel, or is everyone else just having so much fun catching them that they have no time to write about the species? Granted, there are some articles and blog posts out there, but not much. Even dedicated multispecies publications like In-Fisherman and Field & Stream barely cover the fish. I flipped through 24 magazines of the former and couldn’t find a mention. When I did an internet search for “fishing for chain pickerel field and stream” I got a whopping two hits (though one was a cool video). It’s so bad that I thought, OK, I know how I’ll find some information. I’ll search for “The Rodney Dangerfield of fish,” but even that cliché just got me a bunch of links to Drum and Carp, with nary a word said about ol’ chainsides!
This wasn’t always so. In the first half of the 20th century, there were several researchers who studied chain pickerel and produced a volume of work for the fish. Yet for some reason, chain pickerel seem to have been forgotten.
Just what gives exactly? Why is it that chain pickerel which are the perfect fish for beginners and kids to catch so ignored these days? Why is it that this species which is so eager to SLAM a spinnerbait on a grass flat, or FLY through the air after a topwater is considered so mundane? It’s a disservice to the species that I just can’t stomach any longer. So here you have it. The Ultimate Guide to Chain Pickerel, a species my children affectionately know as “The Boo Boo Fish.”
If northern pike are the “water wolf,” then chain pickerel are the coyote. Chain pickerel (Esox Niger) are third in line in the species behind the larger muskellunge (Esox masquinongy) and northern pike (Esox Lucius). They are very similar in shape, resembling a freshwater barracuda, but grow much smaller and inhabit a smaller range. Their appetite is often described as “voracious,” and they are frequently observed following lures straight to the boat, sometimes hitting them several times en route.
Sometimes called “the southern pike,” chain pickerel are the largest esocid available in many southern waters. Their range is lakes, ponds, and rivers across the entire eastern U.S. seaboard and much of the Gulf of Mexico. They’ll live just about anywhere that the water is nice and calm, even tolerating waters that are somewhat brackish. This makes them a popular fish in the Mid-Atlantic, with many renowned pickerel experts and bloggers coming from those parts.
Not to break the pattern, but I’m a New Englander. My infatuation with this species began as a young boy fishing the southern end of Lake Champlain, where they are numerous. Some of the first fish I caught “all by myself” were chain pickerel, which meant these were among the first fish to send that exciting jolt of energy through my arms when they bit my spinnerbait. It’s the sort of thing you don’t forget easily, so every time I’ve taken a new person fishing, I’ve tried to target ol’ chainsides.
What is the Difference Between Chain Pickerel and Northern Pike?
Chain pickerel (and especially large ones) are sometimes mistaken for northern pike. The species are quite distinct, however. Look at the photos below. On the left is the olive green chain pickerel. Note it has broad, “chain like” markings along its side. In contrast, the northern pike on the right is much paler, and has smaller, “dot shaped” spots.
Chain Pickerel-Northern Pike Hybrids
It is known that Chain pickerel and northern pike hybridize. While rare, they are common enough that it’s not quite a “buy a lotto ticket tonight” kind of moment. A 1967 study found that hybridization between northern pike and chain pickerel produced some surviving fry, but there was no evidence that the survivors were fertile (source).
The photo below shows the beautiful coloration and pattern that a chain pickerel – northern pike hybrid produces. Note that there are the spots of the northerns however there are also some nice vertical bands that you don’t get with pike.
All of the hybrids I’ve seen caught have come from clear water, typically with access to deeper water nearby. It’s unknown to me if this is because these fish take more after their northern parents?
Note the beautiful coloration of this hybrid caught by my wife.
How to Catch Chain Pickerel
A prime reason I consider chain pickerel to be a great species to target while fishing with kids is the ease with which they’re caught. Pickerel have such an insatiable appetite that it’s weird to me when I can’t get bit in a lake where I know they exist. It’s a legitimate cause for concern, either for my own abilities that day, or for the health of the lake!
All the same, you do need to have an idea where to cast if you want to catch chain pickerel. It won’t do much good casting in an empty part of the lake. Further, some lures are easier to use than others, and seem to draw better strikes.
Where to Find Chain Pickerel?
The chain pickerel’s range extends across much of eastern seaboard of the United States as well as freshwater lakes and streams near the Gulf of Mexico. The best place to find chain pickerel are fairly shallow (10′ or less), weedy flats that have clear water. If that water is near the mouth of a creek or other prime baitfish location, all the better. While they are willing to chase down prey a short while, they are ambush predators and need cover to stalk their food. Thus, you’ll need to find cover if you want to find pickerel. I’ve caught most of mine in grass flats or lily pads, with some caught on laydowns and other debris.
Joe Bruce, an avid chain pickerel fisherman who wrote the book Fishing for Chain Pickerel, spends much of the book talking about how pickerel like “a roof over their heads.” I can’t say I disagree, as most pickerel I’ve caught have been near heavy cover. I usually pick them up by burning a spinnerbait through some alleys in the weeds.
It’s hard to find chain pickerel in murky areas, though the transition between muddy and clear water can be dynamite. Larger pickerel prefer deeper water, but remember that this means closer to that 10′ range. These are not true “cool water fish” like northern pike, so you’re unlikely to find many at great depths.
Where to Find Trophy Pickerel
While any sized chain pickerel is going to be a blast for kids, if you’re reading this, you’re probably itching to tie into a true trophy. While I’ve caught a few of these over the years, there’s no one in the northeast better to ask about this than Ed Guth, Jr. Known as “the pickerel whisperer,” Ed has been featured in several magazines as well as many YouTube clips about the fish. I asked him for some help and he was happy to oblige. He also has a way cooler name for chain pickerel than the “boo boo fish” that my kids and I came up with. He calls them “Green Tarpon” because of the way they go nuts when you “hook one in the nose on medium size tackle and lean on them!”
Here’s a few words of wisdom of how he targets trophy chain pickerel:
Places I go for trophy pickerel aka GATOR class size, which is 20+ inches, one that is 24 ” and 4lbs. is a very good fish, that is a size system I came up with myself, places with a good bass population is one, it helps to keep the number of smaller fish down, but a lot of lakes can have trophy pickerel because they are really a targeted species for many anglers, if the lake has good depth and a good population of shad it could in turn have a good amount of healthy pickerel in it, on the other hand, I have also found that lakes with no shad at all are also good pickerel spots, where the bass are not as competitive with the pickerel and in turn are more abundant because the food bass of tougher fish like yellow perch.
One big thing I have found over the years is that I believe that big pickerel can be territorial, I have caught a big ones in the same spot more then once, and I have had friends catch one I have already caught, in the same spot months later or even longer, we have compared chain patterns to verify that yes it was the same fish, so if you have gotten a big one in that area once you my come across it again later.
Ed Guth, Jr.
Ed Guth, Jr. knows what he’s talking about when it comes to monster chain pickerel!Photo credit of Ed Guth, Jr.
Chain Pickerel Holding Locations
I’ve spent much time chasing these fish on Lake Champlain. One thing I’ve noticed is that certain bays or coves tend to be “pickerel bays” while others tend to hold northerns. While I occasionally will catch both in the same area, it isn’t that common. I’ve found that northerns are much more prevalent near deep drop offs while chain pickerel are very comfortable going in the back of bays.
Careful map study has revealed that the bays that hold more chain pickerel have one thing in common: they tend to be expansive. What I mean by that is the flat will extend a great distance. If given the choice between a narrow flat and a wide one, pickerel will take the former. In my experience, northerns sometimes act much different and are perfectly comfortable stacking on a shorter flat.
A Few Cases Studies
Take a look at the chart below. This is a famous fishing spot near Fort Ticonderoga that I’ve fished countless times. While you must never say never, you’re much more likely to catch a chain pickerel in the red area than the blue. I can’t ever recall catching a pickerel in catfish bay, and I attribute this to their desire to have a larger flat to work with.
Chart provided by NOAA Office of Coast Survey, nauticalcharts.noaa.gov
Further north, in Bulwagga Bay, I’ve observed the same phenomena. Note how both areas have roughly the same depth yet the flat is much wider and expansive where the pickerel tend to stack. Again, you could find both types of fish in both areas but I’m just talking typical catch rates here. When you find a large flat with room for these fish to spread out, you seem to get into more of them. Another commonality is both maps feature 18th century fortresses, though I don’t suppose that’ll be a factor in most places.
Chart provided by NOAA Office of Coast Survey, nauticalcharts.noaa.gov
Likewise, there is silver lake in Connecticut. While I’m not sure if I can reproduce the imagine on this website, you can find it here. I catch way more chain pickerel in the southern end than I ever do in the north. They just seem to like having room to roam.
Is There a Seasonal Pattern to Chain Pickerel Location?
Chain pickerel will stay in the same shallow bays all summer long, though the bigger ones will be closer to the drop off. This is in direct contrast to northern pike that typically seek deeper, cooler water during the hot summer months. A 1942 study by Edward Rainey confirmed as much. He observed chain pickerel in a New York pond with a maximum depth of about 11 feet. He reported that pickerel could be found throughout it, both very shallow and in deeper portions during night and day. There wasn’t any true rhyme or reason to it. The only constant was that the youngest, smallest fish spent most of their time in the shallows (source). Granted, it’s a small pond, but you’d expect the larger fish to stay deeper if this what they truly wanted.
This confirms my own observations. Chain pickerel have been one of the more prevalent species I’ve targeted on Lake Champlain. There’s a particular bay that doesn’t reach a depth much more than 4′ in most places. Despite this, large fish are taken there throughout the year. Indeed, the hotter months of July and August often provide great action, as long as you have a clear path through the water to fish.
The Best Time of Year to Catch Chain Pickerel
Chain pickerel can be caught year round, but like their older cousins, it can be easier to catch them when the water is cooler. It’s not that pickerel go inactive or disappear during the hotter months, but much of their habitat becomes very difficult to fish with lures that a pickerel won’t bite off. Those that can be worked in these areas tend to have their action ruined by heavy leaders.
Spring
In New York/New England, spring is really divided into two parts. First, you have the early spring of March and April, when these fish are spawning and the water remains cold. Then, around May, things heat up for the bass spawn and pickerel become more active.
In the early part of spring I prefer to use jerkbaits to catch pickerel, mainly because they tend to bite off lipless cranks, and it’s hard to get a fish to strike a spinnerbait before the water warms a bit. It’s a shame however as it is a pain to catch these fish with treble hooks given their propensity for thrashing about in the net.
Once the water hits around 60 degrees or so, the spinnerbait comes out and stays out for the rest of the year. I like to burn them across the edge of weedlines and over submerged vegetation – basically the same spots that you’d look for bass or northern pike. I find a fast retrieve works much better – it seems to trigger their predatory instincts. Also, it seems like I get less bite offs with a fast retrieve. I attribute this to the fish not quite getting the whole lure in their mouth. That’s good for avoiding bite offs, but a stinger hook comes in handy to actually land them.
You can tell this fish was caught early in the year given Dad’s clothing and the grey color of Lake Champlain.
Chain Pickerel and Sunfish Cooperation
An interesting even appears to happen in the spring. I found an absolutely fascinating journal entry by Hurst H. Shoemaker where he described observing pickerel and sunfish working together to keep golden shiners at bay from the sunfish’s nest. Over the course of several occasions, he observed the pickerel basically guarding the sunfish nest and taking advantage of the egg-robbing golden shiners as a distracted food source. It seems the sunfish mostly tolerated this behavior, and there were advantages for both species. The pickerel obviously got a snack, and the nest was better guarded (source).
While I can’t claim to have ever observed this myself, I’ve never really looked for it either. Who spends any amount of time staring at sunfish beds? It is worth noting that the pickerel Shoemaker observed in this study were smaller (the largest fish he references was 12″). I suppose much larger than that and the sunfish might have been less accepting.
All the same, it is an interesting study and perhaps a good way to catch a chain pickerel in the spring would be to toss a shiner-shaped drop shot near a pumpkinseed bed?
Summer
I’ve never had an issue catching monster chain pickerel in the same weedy flats that they inhabited in the spring, though I can confirm that they seem to be holding a bit deeper out than they are in the spring. Some authors claim that summer is the time when large chains head to the deep drop offs near the weedline (source). While I’m sure that’s their experience, I’d just add that I don’t think it’s as hard and fast of a rule as it sometimes seems with pike.
I know I’ve managed plenty of pickerel in the summer months while fishing for bass deep in weeds. The only challenge is that much of the spring areas are completely overgrown with weeds by this time, so by default I suppose I’m fishing a bit deeper. Nonetheless, frogs thrown deep into the gunk have produced the tell tale pickerel “dolphin lunge,” so there are certainly fish available in cover.
There’s one particular bay in Lake Champlain that I’ve been fishing as a kid that routinely holds huge chain pickerel in summer. The bay itself is only 1-4′ deep in most areas, but it is near a large creek that has a good hole near its mouth that runs maybe 6′ – 10′ deep. I had a day once where I “beached” my boat into the reeds facing this channel and just caught chain after chain for hours. However, this same bay also has one clear channel in in with a whole bunch of “exits” or “cuts” of maybe 6″ – 18″ that connect into the creek. I routinely catch pickerel around this channel and these cuts despite the water being so shallow.
This experience places me firmly place me in the “you can catch pickerel very shallow all summer long” camp.
Fall
As with most species, fall is a great time to fish for chain pickerel. The issue simply becomes finding them, because many of their summertime haunts are completely drawn down by late August. I’ve found the fish concentrated in deeper pockets near the mouths of creeks, as well as the deeper weed lines that still have vegetation.
Many of my favorite pickerel spots are too choked up with weeds or dried out by the fall, so I asked Ed Guth, Jr. his thoughts:
In the fall I go to lakes that have a good shad population as the main forage base, where open flats that are near deep water or wind blown coves that could stack up the warmer surface water, if you can find bass I bet there are a few pickerel in there too.
Ed Guth, Jr.
Spinnerbaits continue to work well (they’re a great fall lure) until the water gets too cold for them to be effective (about October to November in the Northeast). Then, I like to go back to jerkbaits mimicking baitfish. I’ve heard it’s better to upsize lures later in the year, since the entire year class is grown, so that’s what I try and do.
Winter
I’ll admit I’m not much of an ice fisherman. I’d much rather head own south and continue to fish open water. With that said, I know northern pike are routinely taken through the ice so I always wondered if pickerel were too. I did some research and found a few articles that were useful.
Rudow’s FishTalk had a good article about fishing for chain pickerel in the winter. In it, the author mentions that a marabou jig tipped with a minnow makes an enticing bait while fished under a — shudder — bobber. If you have some time, check out the link and read up on this tactic. They pulled some nice fish in for the article.
Ice Fishing for Chain Pickerel
It is worth noting that this is a Maryland “winter” and all the photos are on open, albeit frigid, waters. If you’re further north, you’re going to have to consider ice fishing. The action can be spectacular as this study in Maine concluded:
Winter catch rates of pickerel are routinely amongst the highest recorded for any Maine sportfish. A statewide ice fishing census conducted by Maine wardens in the late 1950’s revealed that the average catch per hour of all coldwater species combined (salmon, togue, and brook trout) was only 0.08 versus 0.42 for pickerel. Thus, fishing for pickerel was about five times faster than that offered by the coldwater sportfish.
The study went on to find that the higher catch rates usually came from eutrophic or mesotrophic (read: older, more nutrient-filled, and shallower) lakes than oligotrophic ones. Or, to put it more plainly, “ya gotta find a lake with weeds.”
When fishing through the ice, the consensus does seem to support using live bait and specifically minnows or shiners, usually tipping a small jig head of some sort. Bring your leaders!
Ice Out Pickerel
I asked Ed Guth, Jr. for his take on this time of year. Here is what he had to say:
I start after pickerel right after the ice opens up if we have a hard winter, when a lot of the lakes are very clear, I go to the deepest water or main lake points.
Ed Guth, Jr.
What is the Best Time of Day to Fish for Pickerel?
Despite spending hundreds of evenings in one of the best pickerel-producing bays on all of Lake Champlain over the years, I’ve found that the bites really die down as the sun starts to set. From what I’ve read online, I might just be giving up a little too soon, as many report that pickerel bite just fine at night, but I do think dusk is a poor time to target them, at least with fast moving baits.
In contrast, chain pickerel seem to bite very well in the morning and continue to do so for much of the day. This makes them a consistent fish to target, meaning a good one to fish for with kids! The morning bite is usually going to be better than noon, but I’ve had plenty of lunchtime trolling runs where we’ve loaded the boat. You just need to cover more water.
As with most fish, you’ll find its easier to catch chain pickerel on a cloudy day. The low light conditions enable them to come out and roam a bit more than they would under a hot full sun. If you have to go out with the sun blazing, try to use lures that you can work through heavy vegetation and other cover, as that’s probably where you’ll find most fish hiding.
Kids aren’t always the best at waking up early. Luckily, the pickerel don’t care as they’ll bite all day.
What is the Best Bait for Chain Pickerel?
To best understand what bait and lures are going to work well for chain pickerel, we should first understand what chain pickerel eat. In 1939, George W. Hunter III and John S. Rankin, Jr. studied what foods these fish eat. They took over 30 fish from Lake Pocotopaug in East Hampton, Connecticut, and examined their stomach contents. They examined two broad groups of pickerel. Those under 6″ and those over 6″ and found that they had very different diets. The larger fish primarily fed on other fish (62.4% of their diet) with 21.8% of that coming from the family Cyprinidae, or minnows. The next highest percentage was Percidae, which is the family that includes yellow perch (source).
Another study that researched chain pickerel feeding habits in a brackish river found that much of its diet comprised of white perch, especially those that were quite young, which would indicate they too were about the size of minnows (source). The bottom line is, something small and fishy is a tasty treat for Esox Niger.
Thus, the best live bait to use for chain pickerel will be minnows or shiners in the 4-5″ range as they make up the majority of their diet. I’ve also had great luck using an inline spinner topped with a nightcrawler as well. Just remember to use a leader when fishing with live bait so you aren’t broken off.
Productive Fishing Lures for Chain Pickerel
As we saw above, the majority of a pickerel’s diet (at least up north) is composed of minnows and perch. It stands to reason that you ought to use lures that try and mimic these foods to maximize your chances. Here are several that I’ve found work very well.
Spinnerbaits
I’ve caught more chain pickerel on spinnerbaits than any other lure. Specifically, chartreuse or white ones while reeled in quickly near grass flats. Much like pike, pickerel seem to prefer these baits moving fast through the top of the water column over submerged vegetation. Burning these in works wonders for calling up the pickerel and they tend to slam them anywhere along the retrieve, including right next to the boat.
I prefer to use spinnerbaits with a willow leave blade when fishing for pickerel or pike as the flash seems to draw them in better. I haven’t had as much luck when fishing more turbulent Colorado blades, even though I often fish for the species in the siltier sections of Lake Champlain south of the Crown Point Bridge.
Spinnerbaits routinely catch large chain pickerel like this fine specimen.
Swimbaits
Swimbaits are another good search lure for pickerel. Basically anything that you can cast out and work back quickly is going to produce, and these fit that bill. The only caution with these is that you could run into an issue with breakoffs if you don’t use a leader. Swimbaits (especially soft plastic ones) don’t have much to protect the line, so you really should consider a leader if toothy predators are your main target.
One nice plus about soft-bodied swimbaits is you can often Texas Rig the hook right into them, which makes them essentially weedless. This allows them to get into some areas that spinnerbaits will pick up too many weeds and might help you catch some fish that are hiding deeper in the gunk.
Jerkbaits
Like northerns, chain pickerel have a hard time resisting a jerkbait. The only downside to these lures is that they often are an early-year lure, not so much because pickerel stop biting them (no fish stop biting a jerkbait, a jerkbait is awesome), but because the weed flats that make up so much of a pickerel’s habitat make working anything with treble hooks challenging quite early in the year.
To the extent that you can find clean water to throw them, jerkbaits will produce pickerel consistently. I do prefer a more rapid tempo than I use for bass as I like to trigger their predatory instincts. I find that fast moving retrieves and cadences do a better job of triggering these fish than something slow.
Topwater Action
I strongly suspect that many of the “bass” frog fishermen are missing are actually chain pickerel. They will repeatedly strike at these topwater plastics, and it is very hard, though not impossible, to hook them. The next time you catch a pickerel, take a careful look at its mouth. All those teeth might as well be pieces of chain mail keeping a frog hook from sticking.
If you want to go after pickerel with topwater lures, I would recommend a stick bait with treble hooks like a Devil’s Horse. First, it looks much like a dying minnow or perch. Secondly, I’ve found that the trebles do a much better job of hooking the fish and getting them in the boat for you than the frogs do. Also, a Devil’s Horse is going to stand up to the onslaught much better than a plastic frog. Usually, if a pickerel attacks the latter, all you’re getting for your trouble is a leaky, torn up lure.
One thing I’ve found interesting is that you can usually tell if a pickerel made the topwater attack vs. a bass, even if you didn’t get a good look at it. Pickerel almost jump out of the water like a dolphin swimming fast. It’s a very horizontal attack. In my experience, bass typically smash lures from the bottom and create a large boil in one spot. So, if you’re missing many strikes while fishing a frog, this might help you determine if they’re bass or pickerel.
Slower Lures (Jigs and Worms)
Chain pickerel will hit slower lures like jigs and worms but the issue becomes these lures have very little protection from sharp teeth. While the wire of a spinnerbait can help protect against at least some bite offs, a jig has no such guard and is susceptible to being lost if a pickerel takes the lure. All the same, given how well spinnerbaits typically work for chains, I suspect most that you’ll take while working a jig will be a bycatch while searching for bass.
This chain pickerel bit a marabou jig when I was a young boy, but I got very lucky that it didn’t bite the line clear off!
Ed Guth Jr.’s Take on the Best Lures for Trophy Pickerel
Believe it or not, but many of my biggest pickerels aka GATORS , have came on only two types of lures, one being a jig and the other a jerkbait, little jigs 1/16 oz plan ballhead jigs tipped with a 2” curlytail grub, MisterTwisters are the ones I use or, a 2” boottail swimbait ,like a Zoom, in black back/pearl, tipped on the same style jig, for the jerkbaits, I like a suspending one , but I modify mine into slow sinks , Rapala huskyjerks in a 4” size, in gold, but if the water is a little dirty I have used brighter colors.
With the jigs I have used line from 6 to 10 test, but with the jerkbaits, 10 or 12 lb test, and I make my own 6” wire leaders for the jerkbaits, I don’t get cut off to often, but it happens .
Ed Guth, Jr.
This pickerel wasn’t kidding when it bit this bait! Photo courtesy of Ed Guth, Jr.
Techniques for Catching Chain Pickerel
Any technique you use to catch bass will apply well to pickerel. There’s a reason that bass tournament anglers get so fed up with these fish and it’s because they readily go after all the bass presentations! I suppose if money was on the line and my heart started skipping, it would be deflating to see a 6lb chain pickerel at the end of my spinnerbait! Even so, at least you can catch chains with the same techniques you already know!
Power Fishing
My favorite technique to catch chain pickerel is simply to power fish spinnerbaits across a grass flat. I’ll make multiple casts as far as I can and burn the bait back in. This quickly gives me an idea if there are fish in the area as I’ll at least see a “follow” even if the fish aren’t that hungry.
This is also a fun way to fish with kids and other beginners. Casting gives people something to do. You can make a game of seeing who can cast more accurately to the different pockets in the weeds while you’re waiting for a fish to bite. The added benefit is the winner usually has a pretty good chance of catching a fish, as this is where they hang out.
Shallow Water Trolling
In recent years (read: while my son was little, and couldn’t cast well) I started experimenting in shallow water. Trolling can be a great way to spend lunch with your children on the water. There’s nothing better than to let the boat do all the work while you kick up your feet and have a snack. I’ll tell you, while learning this technique, I found that chain pickerel were one of the main fish we’d catch.
Easy presentation for fishing with kids + great fish for kids to catch = awesome time on the water. You should try it.
Chain pickerel are easy enough fish to troll for as they stay in shallow water with weeds growing a bit beneath the surface most of the summer. Anywhere that you can cast a spinnerbait without getting fouled, you can drag one behind your boat. You also don’t need any fancy equipment like downriggers, or even rod holders. You can simply hold the rod and wait for a strike, which will come routinely. If you want to learn more, check out my article about trolling for chain pickerel.
Live Bait
I don’t fish much live bait for chain pickerel. If I have shiners on, I’m usually going for bowfin. All the same, it’s hard to argue with the ice fishermen who bring so many chains in each year on 4-5″ shiners. There’s no reason that the same techniques so many ice anglers use wouldn’t also work in the warmer months. The only trick will be placing the bait near a chain pickerel in the first place, as you aren’t covering much water with live bait.
Fly Fishing for Chain Pickerel
I’ll admit I’ve never fly fished for chain pickerel, but as you’ll see a bit later in this article, a gentleman named Joe Bruce has written a book, Fishing for Chain Pickerel, with a huge section all about this. If you’re interested in fly fishing for chain pickerel, I highly recommend picking up his book. It is available at Amazon and does a far better job of explaining the concept than I ever could. I’d estimate that a good third of the book is dedicated to the topic. Not only does this book talk about what types of flies to throw, but it also shows you exactly how to tie them. It’s definitely a good read and a worthy addition to your library.
However, if you’re looking for some basic tips, here are a few concepts his book pushes:
Pickerel are not line shy, so go ahead and use a 40lb bite tippet to keep them from cutting you off.
Consider using an articulated fly as it presents a larger target and pickerel seem to prefer the action.
Streamer style flies work very well for the species (buy the book for step by step instructions on how to tie them).
What Type of Tackle Should Be Used for Chain Pickerel?
Any bass tackle that you have lying around will be just fine for catching chain pickerel. Match the types of lures to the types of rods you’d use them on for largemouth and you’ll do well. Remember, most pickerel that you’ll catch will be 1-3 lbs with a few pushing 5-6 lb on average. Bass tackle is perfectly adequate.
Some folks even like fishing for chain pickerel on ultralight rods. While I’m sure that this makes for one heck of a fight, I’ve found pickerel to be fairly vulnerable fish that don’t have the best survivability rates if they’re stressed. I’d recommend leaving the ultralight equipment at home and landing the pickerel quickly.
Two tools that I do think you should have on hand if you’re fishing for chain pickerel are fishing mouth spreaders and long needle nose pliers. The mouth spreaders alone are worth their weight in gold when a pickerel takes a hook deep. These allow you to work on the fish quickly and without risk of injury to your hand. The only issue is that pickerel tend to thrash around like crazy, so work quickly and maybe have a second set on hand!
The Book About Chain Pickerel
I am only aware of one book that is completely dedicated to this species, Fishing for Chain Pickerel by Joe Bruce. It is a self-published work by a Maryland fisherman who has filled it chalk full of every secret. While 112 pages might seem short, by self-published standards it is decent in an age where many people self-published folks sell “books” shorter than some of my kids’ bedtime stories.
The book is all inclusive and discusses where to find pickerel, what lures to use, and what techniques will bring them to the boat. As Mr. Bruce is the owner of Joe Bruce’s Custom Flies, he does devote a significant portion of the book to fly fishing for chain pickerel. It is the resource on this subject.
You never know how long these self-published books will be around. You can buy it by clicking on its picture below. As this is currently the only book devoted to this species, I highly recommend that you pick up a copy. I will tell you, when you go to the link you’re going to see a price that seems a bit high for a 112 page book, but the reason for this is it was printed in full color. I’d agree that was the right choice by the author since he spends so much time in the book showing you the best flies to fish, and that needs to be in color.
Other Resources
As stated above (and as of writing), Joe Bruce’s Fishing for Chain Pickerel is the only book I know of devoted to the species, but it gets worse. There aren’t even that many books that mention them in passing. Even The Complete Freshwater Fisherman, which is a ten-pound (and very good) book has exactly one page–one–where pickerel are even mentioned. Why are they mentioned? Simply to remind readers that they’re smaller than pike.
Even my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide only devotes 4.5 pages to the species, though that might as well be a novella compared to most of what’s out there, aside from Mr. Bruce’s excellent offering.
Your main bet for other resources about chain pickerel is Field & Stream author Joe Cermele. Joe is one of the few authors left who spends considerable time fishing for (and writing about) chain pickerel. He also has a video series called Hook Shots where he posted this video all about fishing for the species with “the pickerel whisperer,” New Jersey angler Ed Guth, Jr. who contributed to this article. There’s some great information here so definitely check it out.
This is one of the more informative videos out there about chain pickerel. The star of the show, Joe Cermele, is a writer for Field & Stream who has published several articles on the species.
Chain Pickerel FAQ
I noticed that there’s a number of frequently asked questions out there about chain pickerel. It’s hard to have an “ultimate guide” to the fish without answering them!
How Big Can Chain Pickerel Get?
While chain pickerel are much smaller than northern pike or muskie, they still grow big enough to be memorable. While you’ll get your share of juvenile fish less than 12″ or so, it’s very common to catch them in the 1-3lb range. A fish over 4lb is memorable. Worth noting, the Vermont Master Angler program considers any chain pickerel 24″ or longer to be a trophy (source).
This was a good-sized pickerel caught by my father on a small pond. Many of these smaller ponds don’t get the same fishing pressure so you can land a true trophy.
According to the IGFA, the world record (all tackle, by weight) chain pickerel was 9lb 6 oz and caught by Baxley McQuaig, Jr. in Homerville, GA in 1961. The all tackle record by length was a 65 cm fish caught by Burnie Haney in 2019 on Lake Ontario, NY.
Frankly, one of the more interesting aspects of the chain pickerel is how consistent its size can be throughout its range. Unlike largemouth bass (which tend to grow larger in warmer climes), here we have two record setting fish at considerably different latitudes. Indeed, the prior record holder, a 9lb, 5 oz fish, was caught by Mrs. James E. Martin in Massachusetts. Thus, no matter where you live, there’s the potential that the next chain pickerel you hook could be a world record.
How Long Do Chain Pickerel Live?
According to several studies cited by the University of Michigan Museum of Zoology, the average life span of chain pickerel in the wild is 3-4 years with at least some being observed to have lived for 9 years (source). A study by A.H. Underhill observed fish seven years old and suggested that “the bulk of the spawning population was made up of four and five-year-old fish,” though pickerel as young as two-years-old also spawned (source).
How Do You Handle Chain Pickerel?
Given their sharp teeth, chain pickerel need to be handled with the same care as northern pike. You should never grab them by the mouth and should instead either grab them by the back of the head (for smaller fish) or by the gill plate (larger fish). Note: gill plate NOT the gills.
As mentioned, I’ve found pickerel to be quite delicate fish. Or, perhaps they’re sturdy fish that don’t know their own strength. They beat the living daylights of themselves by wildly thrashing boat side and in the net. If you leave them in the net on the bottom of the boat, they will brutalize themselves against any hard object including the floor. This makes chains a very good fish to subdue and release while netted in the water. Unfortunately, mortality rates do seem to be higher for caught pickerel than other species (most fish I find floating on any given fishing trip are chain pickerel, sad to say).
Can You Eat Chain Pickerel?
If you catch a chain pickerel that gets too beat up to safely release, you might as well eat it (where legal). They are quite a tasty meal, even if they smell awful while raw. Unfortunately, like pike, chain pickerel have “y-bones” which are a pain to deal with, and might make you want to think twice about serving them to kids. There is a technique to get rid of y-bones that you can find in this excellent post from Cornell University. Use it and enjoy!
You can find some good recipes online but bear in mind that sometimes when people say “pickerel” they really mean “walleye” as the former is the latter’s nickname in some parts.
Do Pickerel Bite Humans?
I recently researched an article about whether or not northern pike attack humans. While doing so, I came across plenty of stories of muskies attacking swimmers, but not a single one about chain pickerel taking a chomp out of a human. As a result, I’m completely comfortable saying chain pickerel don’t attack humans.
On the other hand, chain pickerel are quite capable of biting humans. They have sharp teeth and plenty of them and will certainly claim down if you give them the chance. You do run the risk of being bit while unhooking them, so needle nose pliers and perhaps a set of fishing forceps can be quite handy to prevent injury.
In my experience, chain pickerel tend to fight a lot more in the boat than northern pike do. I don’t know if their smaller size makes them more spritely or what, but chains tend to flop every which way when landed. In my opinion, this makes them more dangerous to handle which is why they’re called “the boo boo fish” in my household. In fairness, however, I’ve yet to be bitten by a chain pickerel. Most of my injuries came from being cut by braided line I was holding onto when the fish decided to violently thrash.
Do Pickerel Eat Bass?
You sometimes hear people complain about chain pickerel, worrying that they will eat too many bass and spoil the fishery. A 1978 study by Frank M. Panek for the Florida Scientist suggests quite the opposite. In it, chain pickerel were introduced into a small pond loaded with bass and blue gill. While the pickerel heavily targeted the bluegill and smaller bass and brought their numbers in check, this had the effect of increasing the the total number and size of largemouth bass (source).
So yes, chain pickerel do eat smaller bass, however they also eat the bluegill that are so damaging to bass beds. In doing so, this predator keeps the more voracious panfish in check and allows America’s favorite gamefish a better chance to survive and grow.
Conclusions
I write a lot about fishing with kids on this blog. While I often advocate the need to get a fish–any fish–in the livewell as fast as possible, once that is achieved, my next target is the chain pickerel. While they aren’t true monsters compared to northern pike, they grow large enough and fight hard enough to delight any novice angler or child the first, second, and thousandth time they fight one.
This is a fish of substantial enough proportion that the beginning angler knows they have something memorable on the other line. Their rod will bend with authority, line will be stripped, perhaps a giant breach and splash will occur. When kids or rookies first lift it from the net and see its menacing teeth and piercing eyes, their breath will stop just for a second. I’ve seen this happen repeatedly with different kids I’ve taken fishing, and there’s nothing better.
Even if you’re no novice, a large chain pickerel is nothing to sneeze at. Once they get over about 20″ they put up a good fight and you’ll wonder if you’ve hooked a northern. It’s also one of those fish that are unique trophies not everyone concentrates on, but which you also don’t have to go to some out of the way stream in the middle of nowhere to catch. All good stuff!
I’ve tried to make this guide live up to the “ultimate” boast in its title, but if you’re aware of some resources I’m missing or other things I should consider, please send me an email so I can update the post in the future!
Thanks,
John Paxton
My wife with a chain pickerel she caught on one of our first fishing dates.
Other References and Citations
Interested in reading the primary sources I used to research this article? In addition to the links to my sources sprinkled in the article, the following all made for very interesting reading and research. I’m looking forward to putting what I learned to the test in the next few weeks as I try and put some more chain pickerel in the fishing boat!
Buss, Keen, and Miller, Jake. “Interspecific Hybridization of Esocids. Hatching Success, Pattern Development, and Fertility of Some F1 Hybrids.” Technical Papers of the Bureau of Sport Fisheries and Wildlife, April 1967. https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=XRIfgxeVrTEC&hl=en&pg=GBS.PP1. Accessed April 3, 2021.
Hunter, George W., and John S. Rankin. “The Food of Pickerel.” Copeia, vol. 1939, no. 4, 1939, pp. 194–199. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/1436878. Accessed 3 Apr. 2021.
Meyers, C. D., and R. J. Muncy. “Summer Food and Growth of Chain Pickerel, Esox Niger, in Brackish Waters of the Severn River, Maryland.” Chesapeake Science, vol. 3, no. 2, 1962, pp. 125–128. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/1351225. Accessed 3 Apr. 2021.
Panek, Frank M. “EFFECTS OF PREDATOR STOCKING ON A LARGEMOUTH BASS-BLUEGILL POND FISHERY.” Florida Scientist, vol. 41, no. 4, 1978, pp. 252–255. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/24319577. Accessed 3 Apr. 2021.
Raney, Edward C. “The Summer Food and Habits of the Chain Pickerel (Esox Niger) of a Small New York Pond.” The Journal of Wildlife Management, vol. 6, no. 1, 1942, pp. 58–66. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/3795522. Accessed 3 Apr. 2021.
Shoemaker, Hurst H. “Pickerel and Pumpkinseed Coaction over the Sunfish Nest.” Copeia, vol. 1947, no. 3, 1947, pp. 195–196. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/1438853. Accessed 3 Apr. 2021.
Underhill, A. H. “Studies on the Development, Growth and Maturity of the Chain Pickerel, Esox Niger Lesueur.” The Journal of Wildlife Management, vol. 13, no. 4, 1949, pp. 377–391. JSTOR, www.jstor.org/stable/3795630. Accessed 3 Apr. 2021.
As many parents know, taking kids “fishing” really means giving them a front row seat in, “Daddy shows everyone how to untangle fishing line.” Kids are better at getting their fishing line to tangle than they are at finding puddles to jump in. One of the worst ways line can tangle on a spinning reel is what is known as a birds nest. If your child looks up at you and asks, “Why does my fishing line keep unraveling?” you know you’re in for a challenge.
There are many reasons that your fishing line keeps unraveling. The most common are that you incorrectly spooled the wrong type of lineor too much line on your reel, that you never treated the line with a line conditioner (so it formed memory and coiled), or that you fished it the wrong way and your line started to twist. Any of these are enough to cause your line to first get loose on the reel, then coil up precariously, and eventually form the worst tangle the world has ever seen.While all fishing line can do this, braid is the least likely to unravel and twist on its own while fluorocarbon is the most likely to cause you headaches.
Loose line on a reel creates some of the absolute worst birds nest tangles you can imagine. If your fishing line unravels and you don’t notice it, your fishing line will often tangle underneath the reel to the point where you might need to disassemble the reel to free your line. More than likely, loose line unraveling on your reel will force you to once again add fishing line to your spinning reel. I sure hope you enjoy spooling your own line!
Why Does Your Fishing Line Unravel?
Why does my fishing line unravel, you ask? There’s five main reasons that we’ll get into in some detail: you put too much or too heavy of line on your spool, the fishing line formed memory and coiled up, there was too much slack in your fishing line, you closed the bail with your reel instead of manually, or your lure started to spin. All of these will create a situation where the line won’t lay flat on the spool and you’ll instead have a situation where your fishing line is loose on the spool and eventually falls off the spool altogether.
1. You Put Too Much or Too Heavy of Line on Your Spool
The biggest culprit for why your fishing line unravels and falls off the spool is there simply isn’t enough space for it in the first place. Unless you are using a reel designed for saltwater, most spinning reels aren’t able to handle as much or as heavy of fishing line as baitcasters. The heaviest line that I ever put on a spinning reel is 30lb braid, and even that is pushing it. 30lb braid has the diameter of 8lb mono. Most freshwater spinning reels are going to recommend a line size between 4 – 10lb test monofilament, unless they’re truly oversized.
If you overfill your spool, your fishing line won’t stay as tight and will unravel on its own. You should always try to leave about a 1/8″ gap between your fishing line and the edge of the spool. Believe me, if you miss this, your reel will let you know soon enough. Sometimes I get a little overzealous with my winding and put on a bit more than I should. Within casts, I have a pocket full of balled up fishing line I had to cut from my spool.
2. The Fishing Line Formed Memory
Fluorocarbon and monofilament fishing line are renowned for having “memory.” This means that they tend to “set” and coil up. Anyone who has gone a few weeks without fishing and left their line on the spool knows what I mean. Put some slack in it after you cast a lure out. See that spiral? Spiral is synonymous with “twist.” Do what you can to avoid memory. Change out your old fishing line before it goes bad or expires. Use a line conditioner if you have one. Go fishing enough that the line doesn’t have a chance to set too terribly.
3. There Was Slack in Your Fishing Line
Too much slack, especially on a windy day, can cause line to fall off of your reel and unravel because there isn’t enough pressure on it to keep your line on the spool. Worse yet, when this happens you can set yourself up for a monster wind knot, especially if you close the bail with your reel, as discussed below.
4. You Closed the Bail With Your Reel
Most beginners close the bail to their spinning reels by turning the handle. I know I did this for years as a kid before I learned better. This was likely a major reason poor old Dad spent so much time figuring out how to untangle a spinning pole I was using. Here’s the issue: if your line has any slack in it at all, when you close the bail with your reel (giving it a little twist) the slack line is going to form a loop on the spinning reel. This loop will be tight and twisted and won’t sit right on the reel. This loop in your line will be the first to unravel from your spool, get caught by other line trying to leave it, and culminate in a tangled fishing line.
5. Your Lure Started to Spin
Sometimes your lure gets fouled enough that it starts to spin on the retrieve. Consider a crankbait that has both its treble hooks get stuck together. When you start reeling it in, it will start spinning. This creates line twist that, true to form, twists your fishing line up in a spiral and causes all sorts of problems. Some lures are more likely to do this than others, and you might find that attaching a small swivel to your line and then using a leader to the lure from it helps.
Why Does Your Fishing Line Keep Getting Tangled? How to Prevent Fishing Line from Tangling?
Frankly, I think all the tangles I put Dad through as a kid were good for his character and my vocabulary development, but if you want to learn how to prevent fishing line from tangling, let’s talk about the common reasons why fishing line tangles and what you can do about it.
More than likely your fishing line was tangled by one of three things: your line developed line twist, your line formed a wind knot that caught itself and tightened, or your line sat too long and developed coils which wrapped up on themselves, causing a convoluted mess. While you’ll get your share of tangles up near your lures that you’ll quickly notice, the worst tangles by far are formed much closer to the reel, usually right after a cast. Left unnoticed, these quickly turn into monster birds nests of legend. Let’s dive into each more.
This is staged as I’d never let it get that bad, but all that line balled up is absolutely the result of a prior monster tangle!
What is Line Twist?
Line twist is when your fishing line, well, twists. It spins around in a tight spiral. When taut, this can be imperceptible to the eye, but when allowed to slacken, it will be much more obvious. Look for line that looks almost like a corkscrew with a loop in it. All types of fishing line can twist, though some are worse than others.
Does Monofilament Line Twist?
Monofilament line was twisting while fluorocarbon was still just a twinkle in some scientist’s eye. If you’ve been fishing long enough to decide it’s about time you put “why does my fishing line unravel” into a search, you’ve definitely seen monofilament coil up and fall off a spool or two.
Does Fluorocarbon Line Twist?
Does fluorocarbon line twist, you question? Boy does it ever. Fluorocarbon is the Wayne Gretzky of line twisting. It has such high memory that it easily coils, twists and contorts, often straight from the spool. It doesn’t matter if you have light pound test fluorocarbon, or heavy. The thin stuff will twist just as easily, and you’ll be less likely to notice it. My drop shot rod (which I use fluorocarbon on exclusively) goes through multiple spools of it yearly because it’s such a pain.
Does Braided Line Twist?
I suppose braided line twists, sure, but you probably won’t notice it after a couple of casts. Braid can sometimes take a few retrieves to limber up (it can coil slightly from the spool) but once this is done it has next to no memory. While it isn’t going to magically unravel itself if one of your lures goes haywire and produces a monster twirling motion, it’s also not going to be an issue that drives you crazy. Frankly, I consider braided line to be the best type of line to use on spinning reels because of this. It’s certainly the easiest to manage (assuming you’ve backed it appropriately).
With that said, be aware that the same limpness of braid that prevents your line from coiling, does make it more susceptible to other tangles, like wind knots. Luckily, what causes wind knots in braided fishing line are the same factors that cause wind knots in every other line. So avoid making those mistakes, and you’re good!
How to Prevent Line Twist on a Spinning Reel
If you’re serious about wanting to keep your fishing line from unraveling or tangling, you’re going to need to learn how to prevent line twist on a spinning reel. You’re going to want to learn how to properly spool your own reel, close your own bail, and consider using a swivel.
Spooling Your Own Reel
Unless you live next to a tackle shop or have a very bored friend, you’re going to be spooling your own reel with fishing line. If you’re using an open faced reel, it is very important that you learn how to spool your spinning reel without line twist.
I’ll bet you’ve looked at a spool of fishing line and thought you could just poke a pencil through the hole in the center and have someone else hold it while you spooled your own line. This can be fine, but probably not the way you are planning on doing it. Most people hold the pencil horizontally and have the line come off the same way a tire spins. This is the absolute worst way to put line onto a fixed spool reel such as a spinning reel. The reason is you’re immediately imparting twist to the line by forcing it to turn a 90 degree angle to get to the spool. By doing this, you’ve twisted all your line before its even made one cast.
Instead, either lay the spool flat on the ground. Take the tag end of the line and see which way it unspools fishing line. You want it to strip off counterclockwise. This is because it will reel onto your spinning reel clockwise. This is how you need to put line on a fixed spool reel, and a very important precaution to prevent line twist on spinning reels in your arsenal.
How to Spool Line Onto a Spinning Reel
Here are the steps you need to take to spool line onto a spinning reel to avoid line twist.
Set up your filler spool of line as discussed in the last section, so that the line will unravel counterclockwise from the spool.
Take the line and either thread it through the fishing rod you want to fill, or, if space is limited, use the lower section of an old two-part fishing rod for the task (this is a great thing to do with old fishing rods).
Open the bail of your spinning reel.
Form a loop with your line around the spool of your spinning reel. Tie it with an arbor knot.
Close the bail.
Take a rag, wet it with line conditioner.
Pinch the line with this rag about 8″ above the reel.
Reel in slowly and steadily until your fishing line is about 1/8″ from the lip of the spool.
If you follow these steps when spooling your next spinning reel, you’ll be much less likely to have your trip ruined by some line twist.
Close Your Bail Manually, Never Close Your Bail by Turning the Handle
As mentioned earlier, you should always manually close the bail on your spinning reel, never with the handle. First, it’s bad for your reel and will cause it to break down faster. It’s also a sure-fire way to get a wind knot. The slack in the line often forms a loop and gets stuck unnoticed when you do this (you’re probably concentrating on working your lure at this point). What you should do instead is manually close the reel and then pull your line tight through the roller before you reel in. This will save you tons of headaches down the road.
Consider Using a Swivel
Swivels aren’t going to do much for line that twists near the reel, but they work wonders if your crankbait hooks get stuck, your spinnerbait wraps around itself, or any other issue causes a lure to start spinning wildly on retrieve. There are also some lures, like inline spinners, that are notorious for causing line twist. While you might think that a “spinner” would “spin,” that’s really not what it’s designed to do. It will, however, do exactly that if you reel it in too fast. Any lure that makes a large circular pattern on the way back to the boat is going to impart a twist into your line.
A swivel will help avoid this because if the lure starts spinning, in theory the only line that is going to spin is the leader between the lure and the swivel – not the main line. I say in theory because you need to make sure your swivel is actually spinning, as any amount of gunk or algae could clog it up and prevent this.
What is a Wind Knot in Fishing?
A wind knot is every spinning reel angler’s worst enemy. It is a knot that forms when slack causes your fishing line to unravel and slip off the spool. Left unnoticed, this unraveled line will form a loop on the spinning reel when the bail is closed by turning the handle instead of manually flipping it. One reason it is caused a wind knot is because wind puts so much slack into lines that these are much more common on breezy days. If you want to prevent wind knots, it is critical that you manually close your bail. Then, give your line a good tug through the line roller to make sure it is snug. While this might be a case of your needing to break an old habit, it’s one worth fixing.
How to Keep Fishing Line from Curling
If your line keeps unwrapping from your reel, you should consider if line coiling, or curling, is the culprit. As mentioned earlier, fishing line has “memory” which basically means it “sets” to an extent. In other words, the fishing line will more or less start to look the way it has sat, such as in a coil on your reel. These coils or curls are hard to keep tight against the spool, which can cause your fishing line to fall off the spool or unravel. How to keep fishing line from curling is an art in itself that mostly considers line care.
Use a Line Conditioner
One of the benefits of spooling your own reel is that you can use a line conditioner while you do so. Most tackle shops aren’t going to go to this length for you, and none of the pre-spooled fishing reels I know of ship with a fishing line softener applied. You can use anything from a purpose-built fishing line conditioner to simple silicone spray. I personally prefer KVD’s Line and Lure Conditioner, but there are plenty of other options out there.
It is imperative that you use a line conditioner if you’re planning on fishing with fluorocarbon fishing line. If you don’t, you will have a fluorocarbon line twist extravaganza on your hands.
Will Soaking Monofilament Line Help?
Some people like to soak their monofilament line in water to loosen it up. I suppose there’s nothing wrong with this given the line is going into the water eventually, anyway. I’d just caution you not to boil your fishing line. I know plenty of folks do it, but it’s one of those arts that can go south on you quick if you mess it up (high heat and fishing lines don’t always mix).
How to Untangle Fishing Line
While every tangle is unique in its own dastardly way, there are a few maxims that I can speak to that will help you untangle fishing line. The most important is to notice that the fishing line is tangled as quickly as you can. I tell my kids that I need to know they have a tangle as soon as they do. If you catch them early it can be as simple as just gently picking them apart or unwrapping your line. If you don’t notice them immediately, they tend to cinch down and you’re left with a situation where you need to reach for your scissors rather than try and untangle the fishing line.
Candidly, you’re probably better cutting off in most circumstances. Yes, this is expensive. However, every tangle creates pressure and friction on lines that they weren’t designed to handle. Every little kink and knot weakens the strength of your fishing line. What do you suppose is going to happen when that trophy fish bites?
As a general rule of thumb, I attempt to untangle braided fishing line. It is so limp that it won’t kink just because it folds over itself. Monofilament and fluorocarbon fishing line, on the other hand, should simply be retied unless the tangle is truly easy. The second I notice any 90 degree bends, creases, or folds, I cut off and retie.
Is There Any Such Thing as Tangle Free Fishing Line?
No. All fishing line can tangle, especially in the hands of a crafty child. However, there are several brands that have a reputation for being easier to deal with than others. Point in fact, I use these brands almost exclusively for this exact reason. A good braided fishing line that is fairly tangle free is PowerPro. A monofilament line that tangles less than some competitors is Berkley Trilene XL. As for fluorocarbon, good luck, but I do pay a premium for Seaguar InvizX as it is one of the softer, more pliable fluorocarbons out there. This makes Seaguar InvizX about as tangle free as a fishing line made from fluorocarbon can be (which isn’t saying much). These lines are all good choices to help prevent tangles and to stop your fishing line from unraveling.
Conclusions
Fishing is a great hobby, but every rose has its thorns. If you used to find yourself shaking your fist at the sky, crying “Why does my fishing line unravel!?” I hope this article helped sort through the issue for you. There are few things more frustrating in this sport than having your line get loose on the spool and start tangling up on you. As we’ve discussed there are several simple measures you can take to prevent your fishing line from tangling. Luckily, none are major changes. Just use the right line for the reel, apply proper conditioner to it, cast and retrieve it appropriately, and sacrifice your first born (kidding). While there’s no such thing as tangle free fishing line, at least these steps will reduce your agita a bit, and make for a better fishing trip.
Have a great day for fishing,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!