I love my Dad. Let’s not make any mistake about that. All the same, Dad used to terrify me when we were out fishing on a windy day. He had this tiny little lightweight aluminum fishing boat that would just get tossed around every which way on Lake Champlain. He did his best to maintain boat control with an ancient trolling motor that was rarely responsive to his pedal presses or, as it turned out, voluminous swears and grunts. Every time the drift would get messed up, the entire Vermont shoreline would know about it.
Boat control stresses the best of us out. Or, at least it used to until Minn Kota rolled out their Terrova trolling motors. Now, anglers everywhere have an easy button to press. There’s the spot lock function that works as well as any anchor. You also have an autopilot option to keep your drift straight and true. Finally, the darned thing can learn and talk to your fish finder, if properly equipped. Yes, the Minn Kota Terrova is like a gift from the heavens to us all. If you don’t have one on your boat, you’re missing out!
I never thought it could get any better, but then Minn Kota upped the ante. They introduced two new trolling motors to follow up on the Terrova: the Ulterra and the Ultrex. When my trolling motor finally shuttles off its mortal coil, which trolling motor should I buy, and why? Read on to see my thought process.
Why I love My Minn Kota Terrova
As you might have guessed from a website called “fishingfather,” I spend a lot of time taking my children out on the boat with me. They’re still young (5 and 2) and require a lot of attention. There are tangles to be sorted, fish to unhook, and worms to spear left and right. I simply don’t have time to worry about whether my boat is about to be pushed into a rocky shoreline, but that’s not something to neglect! With the Minn Kota Terrova, all I have to do is press the “spotlock” button on my remote and the trolling motor will keep us safe while I deal with the latest challenge of fishing with kids. Additionally, the auto pilot function makes working a bank seamless. It’s safe to say that this trolling motor is a big part of the reason my Lund Impact has been such an awesome boat for me.
Spot-Lock + Dropshot = Amazing
One of my favorite techniques is the drop shot. It’s perfect for catching bluegills with kids and also puts monster smallies in the boat for the parents. It gets even better on a windy day or in current where you can position the boat into the flow, hold it there, and let the waves give your bait that oh-so-subtle action. Could I do this with an anchor? Sure, if I wanted to keep pulling it up and guessing where I’d wind up. With the Spot-Lock feature on my Terrova, I hit a button and I’m there.
Auto Pilot
The second feature that I’m always using on my Terrova is the auto pilot function. What this does is help you stay on a constant heading by using GPS to keep your course straight and true. It is very handy on windy days where you’re trying to work your way down a shoreline. All I do is get the trolling motor facing the way I want it to go, and then press this button. The boat takes care of the rest.
There’s are several other autopilot functions. For example, you can “record” a track and then have the motor remember it and follow it in the future. I suppose if you wanted to work your way around a deep underwater hump slowly jigging, this would be ideal. I’ve never had much use for it as the places I fish tend to be pretty linear, which means that the pure auto pilot is all I need, but I suppose guys fishing southern reservoirs that have a ton of structure would really appreciate this.
For the technologically inclined, you can also link your Terrova up with your Humminbird fish finders and have the auto pilot follow different contour lines of the lake. It’s the same concept as above but there’s no need to record the track. I’m not set up for this sophisticated use, but the guys who are tend to swear by it.
The Little Bunny That Could
I find the little rabbit button on the remote to be extremely useful. Pressing it automatically puts the trolling motor to full blast. This is important in situations where perhaps you didn’t notice an obstruction until the last second, but need emergency power to get away. It’s also handy if you’re trying to give yourself some distance from the bank before you pull up your trolling motor on a windy day to take off with the outboard.
Minn Kota Terrova vs. Ulterra vs. Ultrex
A few years ago, Minn Kota decided to complicate fishermen’s lives everywhere by coming out with even more great products when they unveiled the Ulterra and Ultrex trolling motors. Ever since they did, I’ve had to sit here and imagine what I’d decide to do when it was time to replace my Terrova. Would I go with the tried and true and buy a second one, or would I try one of these other trolling motors out? Here’s my thought process on these three different trolling motors, and why I’d ultimately stick with the Terrova.
Minn Kota Terrova vs. Ulterra
When Minn Kota first unveiled the Ultrex, I was amazed. It has two things going for it that is significantly different than the Terrova:
The Ultrex will automatically deploy and stow away while the Terrova will not.
The Ultrex can automatically raise and lower to accomodate different water depths. You need to manually adjust the Terrova.
The Benefits of Automatic Stowing
You could be forgiven for thinking that #1 is a little gimicky, but it does have its place. Have you ever fished along a rocky, windswept shoreline and wanted to take off for a different honeyhole? With most trolling motors, you need to stay up front and bring your boat out far enough from shore that you can stow the trolling motor, run back to your seat, snap in your kill switch, and take off. If it’s very windy, this can get dicey, especially if you’re fishing a river, or other narrow water body where you can’t go that far out from shore.
The Ulterra solves this problem. Now, you can fire up your main motor while simultaneously using the remote to raise and stow the trolling motor, all from the comfort of you seat, and with your kill switch attached. That’s a good deal.
As an added plus, you can also pull of cool stunts like this commercial. Which, let’s face it, is the best reason to buy one of these.
Why Auto Trim Would Be Wonderful
The main reason I would seriously consider moving up to an Ulterra is the auto trim. Have you ever fished in an area you weren’t that familiar with and suddenly saw a sandbar or obstruction in front of you? Maybe you wanted to get that walleye boat into a little skinnier water? If so, you know what a pain it is to drop everything you’re doing, get on your hands and knees and start manually adjusting your trolling motor trim. Being able to do this swiftly at the press of a button is something I’d be all about.
Minn Kota Terrova vs. Ultrex
The Minn Kota Ultrex is the company’s answer to the bass boat guys who want a cable steering trolling motor but don’t want to give up on all the great GPS features of the Terrova and Ulterra. While the Terrova and Ulterra are electronically steered (and thus probably not quite as precise with the foot pedal), the cable steering allows for ultimate control. Let’s face it, it’s also probably a comfort level thing. I grew up with terrible trolling motors so I thought that the Terrova was a gift from God. If you’ve spent your past several years using a solid cable trolling motor on your bass boat, the Terrova might feel like plastic junk. The Ultrex solves that issue.
The Ultrex also comes with mega imaging built right into it. This is a transducer that syncs with Humminbird and has both side and down imaging. This way, you don’t need to trouble yourself with installing a transducer manually (which is a couple hour chore if you don’t do it often) and can just go.
Ultrex is absolutely the choice for bass boats and any professional bass fisherman out there is going to be running one of these models as opposed to the Ulterra or Terrova.
Which Would I Choose and Why?
It’s really hard for me to choose between the Minn Kota Terrova vs. the Ulterra. I struggle between the two because the ulterra has some extra features that I’d appreciate, but also has an added price, weight, and more things to go wrong. I could see it malfunctioning at some point and causing big issues. A Terrova isn’t going to suddenly develop an electrical gremlin and deploy on its own. While I’m confident Minn Kota has produced a quality product and I’m just being paranoid, I’m also prone to making a fishing blooper or two, and just know that I’d be “that guy” who has the issue.
The Terrova is also the devil I know. It’s served me well for about a decade on two boats and never left me wanting. While the automatic trim would be a great addition, how often would I really use it? I just don’t know that i can justify the extra cost or weight of the Ulterra, so the Terrova is for me.
I don’t have a bass boat, nor do I particularly care if I have cable steering, so the Ultrex isn’t on my radar. I’m not so certain I’d everwanta bass boat, either. I’m pretty well sold on the multispecies boat being the better option for me, so I don’t think the Ultrex will ever be in the cards.
Hopefully this helps you decide which trolling motor is right for you. Thanks for reading!
I bought my aluminum fishing boat in the fall, and I remember spending the entire winter worrying if my SUV could tow it. It was my first vessel, so I didn’t even think to consider the boat and trailer weight or my SUV’s towing capacity. I searched far and wide on the internet trying to set my mind at ease. Ultimately, I decided that the safest bet would be to buy a new SUV. This worked out well for me, because my Lund Impact 1875 Sport has provided 8 years of awesome fishing, but you might want to do your homework ahead of time, or find yourself at the car dealership soon!
This article is going to walk you through the average weight of boats and trailers commonly sought for fishing. First, I’ll walk you through why the sticker weight isn’t the only thing you need to worry about when you consider a vehicle’s towing capacity, and will give you some good advice to keep you safe on the roads. Then, I’ll discuss everything from 16 foot aluminum boat and trailer weights all the way up to normal pontoon boat weights as well as bass boats. Finally, I’ll recommend some good SUVs and trucks for towing a boat.
Whether you’re going to purchase a new boat or if you intend to buy a used boat for your family, this guide will give you a good idea of whether or not you need to upgrade your tow vehicle.
Can My Vehicle Safely Tow My Boat?
Before we go any further, it’s critical that you understand a few things about your vehicle’s tow rating. Most people assume that “towing capacity” is all that they need to consider, but this simply isn’t true. I can list all the numbers and figures I want but unless you understand the difference between GVWR, GVCR, and tongue weight, you’re going to have issues. It’s equally important that you understand that the average weight of a particular boat and trailer probably won’t be close to real world conditions.
What Does GVWR Mean?
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the total amount of weight that your vehicle can handle. It includes the weight of the vehicle itself, as well as any passengers, cargo, and fuel. Importantly, it also includes the tongue weight of the trailer you are towing. The tongue weight is the amount of force that the trailer and its cargo is exerting on the ball of your trailer hitch. You want to keep your boat trailer tongue weight to roughly 10-15 percent of your total trailer weight. Having much more tongue weight than that will cause you many issues while trailering, launching, and retrieving your boat. If you have too little tongue weight on your boat trailer, it might pop off your tow hitch!
What Does GVCR Mean?
GVCR stands for “Gross Vehicle Combined Rating” and includes both the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of the towing vehicle and whatever is being towed behind it! Thus, when you’re researching the average weight of a boat and trailer, make sure that it won’t put you over your vehicle’s GVCR.
Should I Max Out My Truck’s Towing Capacity?
No. You should try to keep your total towing weight below 70-80% of your vehicle’s towing capacity. However, always bear in mind that the towing capacity is not the same as the GVCR. If you have multiple passengers or intend to load your boat or tow vehicle to the top with gear, you could jeopardize safe travel at much less than the 70-80% rule.
Average Weight of Boats and Trailers
Now that we’ve discussed these important weight rating concepts for your tow vehicle, let’s get into the nitty gritty of average boat weight by popular model types so that you can figure out which boat your SUV can safely tow. I do want to put forth the methodology I’m going to use first.
As I mentioned at the beginning, the average weight of your boat and trailer probably doesn’t reflect real life conditions. This is because it doesn’t take into account the weight of gasoline (which weighs about 6.3lbs), nor does it take into consideration any gear in your boat. That means your trolling motor, anchors, batteries, safety equipment, and fishing tackle need to be accounted for. Let’s look at how quick that adds up:
A marine deep cycle battery weighs 50lbs, and your boat likely needs between 1-3 of them to power your trolling motor.
A cranking battery weighs about 37lbs, and your boat probably needs 1-2.
A trolling motor weighs on average 42lb, with the more popular models (Terrova, Ulterra, and Ultrex) weighing far heavier on this scale (35lb, 70lb, and 77lb). I’m going to go ahead and call this 70lb for most serious fishermen.
You’ll have at least 200lbs of fishing and safety gear on your boat.
Note this says nothing about extras like shallow water anchors, jackplates, extra seats, kicker motors, or the like.
Boat Weight Calculator Methodology
For the purposes of this article, I will make the following assumptions:
I will add 322lb for any boat 16′ or less (1 deep cycle battery, 1 cranking battery, 200lb of gear and safety equipment, and a 35lb trolling motor).
Boats 17-19′ will have 407lb added (2 deep cycle batteries, 1 cranking battery, 200lb of gear and safety equipment, and 70lb trolling motor).
Boats 20′ and larger will get 501lb added (3 deep cycle batteries, 2 cranking batteries, 200lb of gear and safety equipment, and 77lb trolling motor).
In addition, I will multiply 6.3 x the boat’s fuel capacity to get their fuel weight. Note that this can be substantial with some boats.
Deep-V Aluminum Fishing Boat and Trailer Weights Chart
A popular type of boat for families is a Deep V or “fish and ski” boat. They range from 16 foot aluminum boat and trailers up to 22 foot monsters. Here are 10 of the more popular models from Lund and what they weigh. I figure by going with one manufacturer, you get apples to apples. Note that many other aluminum boat manufacturers are going to have similar models.
Bear in mind that these boats (or at least the larger models) are almost routinely equipped with kicker motors, downriggers, and sometimes shallow water anchors too. While great for fishing, all of this adds up. Further, the 200lbs worth of gear may be on the lighter side for some of the bigger boats like the Lund Pro V 2175 that has enough storage to carry a small tackle shop with it.
Boat
Listed Towing Weight of Boat, Motor and Trailer
Fuel Capacity (gallons)
Realistic Weight (Fuel plus Calculation)
Lund Angler
1472 lbs
6.5
1835 lbs
Lund Impact 1775
2337 lbs
30
2939 lbs
Lund Impact 1875
2559 lbs
36
3,193 lbs
Lund Tyee 1875
2929 lbs
40
3,588 lbs
Lund Pro V 1875
3021 lbs
43
3699 lbs
Lund Pro V 1975
3546 lbs
51
4368 lbs
Lund Tyee 2075
3658 lbs
50
4474 lbs
Lund Pro V 2075
3808 lbs
62
4700 lbs
Lund Pro V 2175
4273 lbs
65
5184 lbs
Lund Baron
4272 lbs
70
5214 lbs
As you can see, the weight of gasoline dramatically changes the overall towing weight of the boats. Note that for most of the larger models, a kicker motor is usually desired, which can easily add another 100-150lbs.
Not for nothing, but you might want to check out my article on the Lund Impact vs. Pro-V before you rush out to buy a larger tow vehicle. You might find that the lightweight Impact is the perfect family boat. It certainly makes for a perfect picture.
Deep-V Glass Fishing Boat and Trailer Weights Chart
There are several manufacturers of fiberglass deep v boats. These are going to weigh much more, on average, than the aluminum boats. Here are several models. This time I’ve used Lund and Nitro. Why these two brands? Because they are the manufacturers willing to share the towing weight (Nitro calls this “package weight” and this includes the weight of fuel, batteries, gear, etc.).
While your particular boat may not be on the list below, notice the extreme change in weight between a Lund 189 Pro V GL (4530 lbs realistic weight) compared to the aluminum Pro V 1875 above (3699 lbs realistic weight). At around 831 lbs difference, upgrading to a glass model is going to push you outside safe towing capacities of most family SUVs. Thus a pretty good rule of thumb is if you want a fiberglass walleye boat, you’re going to need to tow it with a dedicated truck when you factor in the weight of the boat and the trailer as well as gas and extras.
I was considering adding Ranger in as they do at least list the GVWR of their trailers, but when it comes to these giant deep V glass fishing boats, the information isn’t that useful. For example, the Ranger 622FS is listed as having a trailer GVWR of 6800lbs. Although considering this gentleman figured out that a 619FS weighs 4600lbs all in, this might not be that far of.
Boat
Listed Towing Weight of Boat, Motor and Trailer
Fuel Capacity (gallons)
Realistic Weight (Fuel plus Calculation)
Lund 189 Tyee GL
3815 lbs
41
4480 lbs
Lund 189 Pro V GL
3865 lbs
41
4530 lbs
Lund 208 Tyee GL
4265 lbs
55
5113 lbs
Lund 202 Pro V GL
4315 lbs
65
5226 lbs
Nitro ZV18
4500 lbs
45
4500lbs
Lund 219 Pro V GL
4683 lbs
65
5594 lbs
Nitro ZV20
5500 lbs
55
5500lbs
As you can see, the weight of gasoline dramatically changes the overall towing weight of the boats. Note that for most of the larger models, a kicker motor is usually desired, which can easily add another 100-150lbs.
Aluminum Bass Boat and Trailer Weights Chart
I grew up fishing on a 16 foot aluminum bass boat. They’re great shallow water fishing boats and can be very economical for families. Unfortunately, not many manufacturers bother to list their towing weight or even package weight. This left me with two options: I could talk about the towing weight of the few aluminum bass boats and trailers that Lund offers (Tracker has package weight which is supposedly “all in”) or allowing for Ranger’s use of the GVWR of the trailer. I decided to go with the latter, so any Ranger boats below are going to reflect that.
However, this means that the listed Ranger weight is the exact “realistic weight” in the chart, because you can’t exceed the GVWR. Thus, no change was made for fuel. This gives you “some” idea of what you’re dealing with, at least in terms of if your tow vehicle can handle it. I suppose that’s what brought you to this article, so I can deal with that.
Boat
Listed Towing Weight of Boat, Motor and Trailer
Fuel Capacity (gallons)
Realistic Weight (Fuel plus Calculation)
Tracker Classic XL
1705 lbs
6
1705 lbs
Lund 1775 Renegade
2105 lbs
22
2566 lbs
Tracker Pro Team 175 TXW
2233 lbs
21.5
2233 lbs
Lund 1875 Renegade
2311 lbs
22
2769 lbs
Tracker Pro Team 195 TXW
2541lbs
30
2541lbs
Lund Pro V Bass 1875
2644 lbs
39
3297 lbs
Ranger RT178C
2720 lbs (trailer GVWR)
22
2720 lbs (trailer GVWR)
Ranger RT188C
2950 lbs (trailer GVWR)
22
2950 lbs (trailer GVWR)
Lund Pro V Bass 2075
3309 lbs
49
4119 lbs
Ranger RT198P
3725 lbs (trailer GVWR)
31
3725 lbs (trailer GVWR)
Even though the data on Ranger is a bit nebulous, it’s clear that a mid-sized SUV could tow most of these boats without issue. Only the true tournament series aluminum bass boats like the Lund Pro V Bass 2075 and Ranger RT198P would give you cause for concern.
Fiberglass Bass Boat and Trailer Weights Chart
Fiberglass bass boats are like the sports cars of the fishing world. Many anglers dream of owning one someday, and if that includes you, you’d better dream about what type of SUV or truck is going to tow your boat too.
Note again that Nitro provides “package weight” for their boats which includes fuel, batteries, etc. Your boat weight may vary somewhat depending on how much gear you’re carrying, but this is a good starting point.
I had to get creative with the boats by Ranger as they don’t give their towing weight on their website. However, per some research, the average weight of a Ranger trailer appears to be around 1200 lbs. Adding in the weight of a 200 hp Mecury (500lb) and 250 hp Mercury (600lb) gave me an approximate calculation (remember, I’m still using between 407 and 501 for extra weight for the batteries, trolling motors, and cargo).
Boat
Listed Towing Weight of Boat, Motor and Trailer
Fuel Capacity (gallons)
Realistic Weight (Fuel plus Calculation)
Nitro Z17
2650 lbs
24
2650 lbs
Nitro Z18
3200 lbs
40
3200 lbs
Nitro Z19
3500 lbs
50
3500 lbs
Nitro Z20
4050 lbs
50
4050 lbs
Ranger Z518L
Not available (boat alone = 1650 lbs)
39
4002 lbs estimate
Ranger Z519L
Not available (boat alone = 1850 lbs)
51
4572 lbs estimate
Ranger Z520L
Not available (boat alone = 1950 lbs)
51
4672 lbs estimate
I’d argue that any bass boat weighing 2 tons or more is really going to want a truck to pull it, or at least an SUV with a good amount of towing capacity.
Towable Inshore and Saltwater Boat and Trailer Weights Chart
Some saltwater boats are hardly what I would call towable, but all of the below come with one as part of their package. While there are plenty of boats out there to choose from, I’ve stuck with Mako for this table because they’re one of the few manufacturers to list a package weight. This includes the weight of boat, motors, trailer, fuel, and batteries.
These boats range from the affordable Mako 184CC to the the mighty Make 414CC that costs more than most houses. All the same, without knowing where you’re from, I decided I’d better list them and their boat and trailer weights (or “package weight” as Mako calls it).
Boat
Package Weight
Fuel Capacity (gallons)
Mako 184CC
3055 lbs
53.5
Mako 204CC
3,435 lbs
87
Mako 214CC
4,535 lbs
91
Mako 236CC
7,200 lbs
136
Mako 284CC
9,800 lbs
228
Mako 334CC
11,995 lbs
306
Mako 414CC
23,000 lbs
566
The larger of these are going to require extremely powerful trucks to move any great distance and you’ll probably better off getting a mooring slip.
Pontoon Boat and Trailer Weights Chart
Trying to determine the average weight of a pontoon boat is especially difficult when you consider that so much of that will depend on the layout you choose. Several luxury pontoon boat manufacturers like Bennington offer a wide variety of floorplans. These could significantly change the weight, depending on what you choose.
Luckily, Sun Tracker offers the same “package weight” that Nitro, Tracker, and Mako boats all provide. This at least gives a pretty good idea of the average weight of pontoon boats out there. As a general rule, I’d assume that any luxury brand is only going to increase in weight over some of the more affordable options.
I have added the “length” column for these boats so you can get an idea of what a comparable pontoon boat may weigh for other manufacturers.
Boat
Length
Package Weight
Sun Tracker Bass Buggy 16XL
18’5″
2426 lbs
Sun Tracker Bass Buggy 18 DLX
20′
2983 lbs
Sun Tracker Fishin’ Barge 20 DLX
21’11”
3602 lbs
Sun Tracker Fishin’ Barge 22 DLX
24’2″
3873
Sun Tracker Fishin’ Barge 24 DLX
26’2″
4253 lbs
While it’s only one brand, you at least get a pretty good look at how additional length impacts the average weight of a pontoon boat.
What Kind of Tow Vehicle Do You Need?
The type of tow vehicle you’ll need will depend entirely on what sort of boat you land on. If you’re an offshore fisherman, you are going to need to get a serious work truck like a Ford F-250 or even F-350 to get your behemoth vessel to and from the ramp. On the other hand, many smaller aluminum fishing boats and trailers weigh so little that a regular SUV can handle them.
Personally, I would try and find a way to stay in an SUV rather than a truck. While trucks are cool and all, an SUV tends to be a superior family vehicle. It’s also nice because long fishing rods fit in an SUV with the rear sets folded down, but would hang over the side of all but the largest truck beds and could be damaged.
This really isn’t a car website, but luckily www.motor1.com is, and they have a good article listing the Best SUVs for Towing in 2021. I was extremely surprised to find that they identified 19 different SUVs that can tow over 7,000 lbs (some going as high as 9,300 lbs as in the case of the 2021 Ford Expedition). While most of these received abhorrent fuel capacity, a few (like the Chevy Tahoe) got a decent 24 mpg.
Best Midsize SUV for Towing Boats
The SUVs in motor1.com’s list are mostly overkill for the majority of boats in this article. Instead, I’d recommend a Nissan Pathfinder. It can tow 6,000 lbs yet still gets up to 27mpg on the highway. This is the vehicle I use to tow my Lund Impact and I couldn’t be happier with it. At 6,000 lbs of towing capacity, it could conceivably tow a smaller Pro-V as well.
Do you Need 4X4 for Towing a Boat?
This depends on the type of ramps that you visit. If they’re gently sloped and well-maintained, and your tow vehicle is powerful enough, there would be no need for a 4×4. However, if you’re planning on pulling boats from steep or shoddy ramps, 4×4 is going to make a huge difference. Bear in mind that water levels fluctuate throughout the year. That ramp that’s in great condition in April may be 10′ ahead of you in August as you launch on mud. A 4X4 is definitely going to help in those situations!
Conclusions
There are plenty of great boats out there that you can tow with most midsize SUVs. As most of my readers know, I love my Lund Impact and given its realistic towing weight for the boat and trailer is about 3,200 lbs, that’s well below 80% of the towing capacity of my Nissan Pathfinder. Any fishing boat and trailer that weighs less than about 4,800lbs would be fine for towing with my SUV, which opens up many options.
The bottom line is, while trucks are nice, you don’t “need” a truck to tow many of the boats out there unless you start getting into the true heavy weights. This should be reassuring for several of families who want to get into boating, but don’t want to mortgage the house to buy a truck to go with their new watercraft.
I hope this was helpful. Do you have any other suggestions to make the article better, or more tips for towing boats safely? What about a favorite tow vehicle? If so, please leave a comment below!
While I love my current boat, at some point I’ll need to replace her. When that time comes, I’m going to have to make a very important decision: should I buy a Lund Impact, or a Lund Pro-V? This article is my attempt to wrestle with this impossible choice. This is a decision that is keeping me up at night a bit given the boats are both great, but so very different. To put it simply, if your children are young, buy a Lund Impact. If your children are grown, buy the Pro-V. If you’re struggling with the same decision and want to know why I’d say this, read on.
A Note on Pricing Information
Throughout this article you’re going to see me refer to some MSRP pricing for these Lund boats. These prices reflect the 2021 model year for these boats, and are taken directly from the Lund website’s boat builder on the date of publication (March 14, 2021). These are subject to change by the manufacturer at any time and are merely a guideline. Indeed, even while just writing this and going back and double checking, there were slight variations that I can’t explain. So, any price you see is very much a “guideline” and should be taken with a grain of salt. Remember, these are MSRP, dealers will have different prices, and at any given moment another trade war, pandemic, or utter chaos could erupt, throwing these prices out the window. It’s the 2020’s, after all.
Where noted, these prices will reflect the use of the boat builder to max out the motor. Most of Lund’s MSRP is “starting at” which usually means a motor with less horsepower. I’ve used the “starting at” figure as the least you’d pay, and then used their boat builder to figure out what the MSRP is when the boat is maxed out. I have not made ANY OTHER CHANGES, so these prices are generally going to be without trolling motors, batteries, boat covers, trailer upgrades, etc.
Spousal Disclaimer – You’re on Your Own!
In other words, your out the door price is going to vary wildly and I cannot be held liableif you tried to use this article to convince your spouse to let you buy this boat, only to find out that there’s another $10k or more tacked on the end price! All the same, I do think it’s useful to include the pricing so you get at least a rough idea of how the different models scale against each other.
If this article becomes popular, I may update it from year to year and if so, you’ll see this disclaimer change. If it is 2022 or later and you’re still seeing “2021,” send me an email and tell me to get my butt in gear 🙂
Apples to Apples
I’ll let you know right off the bat that this article won’t consider the 2075 or 2175 Pro-V. I don’t think I could afford them in the first place, but more importantly – there’s just no comparison between those two models and the Impact lineup. Instead, I’m going to focus on two specific matchups:
The 1875 Impact Sport vs. the 1875 Pro-V
The 2025 Impact Sport XS vs. the 1975 Pro-V
These two matchups seem pretty fair and frankly my next boat decision is going to boil down between one of the two. I’d argue that if you’re looking at an apples to apples comparison between the Lund Impact and the Lund Pro-V, you’re probably considering all of these boats.
The Lund Impact 1875 Sport vs. The Lund Pro-V 1875
We’ll first discuss the Lund Impact 1875 Sport (my boat) vs. the Lund Pro-V 1875. Before we dive into a discussion, here’s a handy chart with some key stats. Note that the chart below reflects the Sports models for each boat (meaning, the walkthrough windshield model). Both the Lund Impact 1875 and Lund Pro-V 1875 offer an “SS” model that has a single windscreen for the driver. The numbers are going to be slightly different (in terms of weight especially) for that model, so do visit Lund’s website for more details.
There’s no disputing that from a pure construction standpoint, the Pro-V is better. It offers the more advanced IPS2 hull design than the Impact’s IPS. The IPS2 provides additional strakes in the hull which provides a drier, smoother experience, as well as some advantages in handling. Reading through some owner comments in various fishing forums, it is said to be a significant difference.
In addition to this important factor, the Impact 1875 Sport is 1″ longer than the Pro-V 1875, but also 1″ narrower. The 1″ length difference is likely imperceptible, but a wider beam is almost always going to provide a more stable experience. Coupled with the more than 2″ greater chine width and extra 300lbs of weight, and the Pro-V is going to be more stable and offer a better ride than the Impact, period.
The Pro-V’s hull is thicker in all aspects and thus more durable than the Impact’s, which could be an important consideration if you fish around stump fields or the like frequently. Nonetheless, I wouldn’t count on this saving you if you are merciless to the boat, so don’t drive with reckless abandon.
Performance
According to Lund’s website, the Pro-V 1875 is capable of a max speed of 56mph compared to the Impact 1875 Sport’s 52mph. I don’t have a 150 on mine, so I can’t speak to the accuracy there, but I’m guessing it’s on point because the 40mph listed for the Impact with a 115 motor is about what I get (38-42 per the GPS, dependent on conditions).
What’s worth noting however is that the 56mph vs. 52mph assumes boat’s that each have maximum horsepower motors. If you were to compare a Pro-V 1875 with a 150 vs. an Impact 1875 with the same, the Impact is faster (52 mph vs. 46 mph). You’ll note that the MSRP for an underpowered Pro-V 1875 is about $2500 greater than a maxed out Impact 1875.
Fishability
One place where the Pro-V indisputably reigns supreme from a performance standpoint is fishability. It’s hard to argue with this when you can easily put a kicker motor andshallow water anchor on while still having a boarding ladder for safety and legal reasons. This is because of an ingenious trick Lund has done to put a boarding ladder directly inside the port gunnel.
While it probably isn’t the best ladder on earth, if you’re fairly fit, it will allow you to refuse to compromise between having a kicker or having a shallow water anchor, which is a huge plus in my mind. You can troll for lake trout with your kicker motor one minute and park yourself directly next to a bass bed the next with your anchor. With the Impact, you need to pick one or the other (or buy a really fancy trolling motor, like a Minn Kota Terrova to try and compensate).
Storage
The layout on the Pro-V provides more and better storage than the Impact. The front casting deck especially shows this point. I’ve always felt like my Impact had a lot of wasted space on the front casting deck as the angle and type of storage boxes left a lot to be desired. For example, while the port side compartment is spacious, the one on starboard is tiny. The Pro-V corrects this in a big way, as the compartments are mirrored on both sides (and, from the looks of it, much larger in the first place). Additionally, while there’s never going to be something as “truly dry” storage on a boat, the Pro-V’s compartments seem substantially more likely to keep water out than the Impact’s as they have much wider metal lips and dividers around them.
The Pro-V also has a very handy storage space for your cranking battery in the center of the rear floor where it is completely out of the way. In the Impact, you end up using one of the boxes on the rear casting deck that you’d really rather have for other stuff.
Rod Storage
One place the Impact does do better than the Pro-V, surprisingly, is with rod storage, as you can get an 8′ 6″ rod in the port gunnel storage as opposed to an 8′ rod that the Pro-V allows. While I haven’t had a chance to play around with the Pro-V, I do think the “top down” port storage on the Impact seems like it would be easier to access and use than the side-opening port storage the Pro-V favors. On the other hand, the Pro-V can carry 15 rods in its center rod storage compared to only 10 on the Impact. While you can buy rod tubes for the port rod storage as an option, this is something to consider.
Family-Friendly
The Impact 1875 Sport is a better family boat than the Pro-V 1875. I’m reaching that conclusion based on my experience with my Impact and knowledge of how the layout “plays out” in practice. I look at the Pro-V and have concerns that if I bought one in the future, I’d really miss the Impact’s layout.
While it might sound stupid, the specific reason for this is that the Impact has the recessed gunnel storage while the Pro-V’s gunnel storage is flush with the top of the side of the boat. In practical use, this means that the Impact has substantially more places for a kid to sit and fish from, or put their lunch and have a snack. It’s also another place that you can go to help them retie a lure, or even just to kick your feet up on while you’re trolling from your captain’s chair.
Finally, the Impact allows for more family members or friends to come along. It is rated for 7 passengers as opposed to the Pro-V’s 6 passengers. Depending on the size of your family, this could be an important consideration.
The Pro-V has many “better” features, but at the end of the day, I think the Impact is laid out substantially better because of these recessed gunnels, and it allows for more passengers. It’s too bad Lund doesn’t offer a recessed gunnel option on their Pro-V lineup, but “them’s the chips.”
Cost of Ownership
The Impact is going to cost you less to own over time. First, it’s substantially less expensive to purchase, even with maximum horsepower. Secondly, its towing weight is substantially less which will cost you less fuel to move it, and possibly allow a smaller vehicle to move it.
In addition to these factors, also consider that the Pro-V 1875 does come prepared to accept 4 batteries in that many folks rig one up with the 36-volt trolling motor. I can’t say for sure if you’d really need one, with just about 300lbs difference between the boats, but you might. If you do, that’s another battery to buy, a more expensive trolling motor to buy, and just one more thing to go wrong.
The Verdict: Lund Pro-V 1875 or Lund Impact 1875 Sport?
When I think of my next boat, I’d have a really hard time justifying going with a Lund Pro-V 1875 over the Impact 1875 Sport. While it is an upgrade in nearly every respect, it’s not that compelling of one to justify the much higher price, and much worse layout given the gunnel storage.
In my mind, and given I already own the Impact, “upgrading” to the Pro-V 1875 would mean that I would be going to a boat that could bring one less passenger with two less handy areas to sit and fish from. It seems likely to feel much more crowded, and that doesn’t work for me. The only reason it’s even in consideration is because of its price point compared to the Pro-V 1975 coupled with the fact that it can accept a kicker and talon on the transom while still having a boarding ladder. That is a very nice option indeed.
Weighing all of this, if I was in my 50’s and my children were grown, the Pro-V would probably be my choice. But, as I’m in my 30’s and my children are young, a Pro-V that is this small just seems impractical to me. If I was going to jump to this model, it would need to be one of the larger ones (1975 or up) or it just doesn’t seem worth it.
The Lund Impact 2025 XS vs. the Lund Pro-V 1975
Now let’s look at some bigger brothers. Again, we’re not going to check out the 2075 or 2175 Pro-V’s as they’re in a class completely in their own. Instead, we’ll look at the Pro-V 1975. Unfortunately, Lund does not offer the Impact in a 1975 version, so the closest comparison we can get to the Pro-V 1975 is the Lund Impact 2025 XS.
Note that there are some pretty significant changes between the 2025XS and the 1875 Sport in terms of layout. It’s not so much of a stretch to call them completely different boats, so it’s worth doing the comparison all over again. First, some stats (note that neither of these boats offer any option other than a full walkthrough windshield):
Here too the Pro-V is going to have the edge over the Impact in terms of pure construction. Granted, the Impact 2025 XS moves up to the IPS2 hull which is nice, and matches the Pro-V in hull thickness in 2/3 of the measured categories. Even so, The Pro-V 1975, while 4″ shorter, has a 4″ wider beam and a 5.5″ greater chine width. All of this should add up to a better-performing boat, on the water. I’ll leave to you whether the Pro-V’s .020″ thicker double-plated bow is going to make that much difference with what you tend to hit day to day, but it certainly can’t hurt.
Performance
Lund’s website again places the Pro-V faster, with the 1975 topping out at 56 mph compared to the 52 mph Impact 2025 XS. However, this is also a matchup between two different engines as the Pro-V 1975 accepts 25 more horses than the Impact 2025 XS. Regardless, when both boats are similarly underpowered with a 150 HP motor, the Pro-V still has a slight edge (44 mph vs. 43 mph). Accordingly, if speed is important to you, the Pro-V is slightly better across the board (though, if 4 mph better is really something to worry about, I leave entirely to you).
Fishability
As with the 1875, the Pro-V 1975 is better from a fishability standpoint in that it can accommodate a kicker, shallow water anchor, and boarding ladder at the same time given the gunnel-stored rescue ladder. While I suppose it’s unfair to say the Impact 2025 XS “can’t” do this, you’d have to move the talon way off to the side, right along with the gunnel. I know I’ve seen a fellow do this with the Pro-V so he could get two talons instead of one. Even if this is possible, this strikes me as a great way to make fishing from the back of your boat a giant pain in the butt. The bottom line is the Pro-V line up allows you to put the anchor and kicker where they belong while still being safe and legal.
Storage
Again, the Pro-V is going to best the Impact on storage. To me, this is almost inexcusable at this stage as the Impact 2025 XS is longer by a few inches, yet Lund has once again gone with the questionable storage layout on the front deck. I dislike it and would love to see it change for the Impact lineup in the future.
The Pro-V 1975 storage layout is much the same as the 1875 as the additional foot of space goes in the cockpit area. Everything I liked about the smaller model applies to this one as well.
Rod Storage
Once more, the Impact can accommodate longer rods in the the port rod locker, but, again, it can only accept 10 rods in the center storage compared to the 15 of the Pro-V. This is balanced, of course, against the fact that you can lay rods down along the recessed gunnel in an Impact, which isn’t an option with the Pro-V.
Family Friendly
I’m not as quick to judge the Impact a better family boat once you get to this tier, though it probably still has the edge. While it does have the same recessed gunnels that I think are so important, it takes a step back on the aft casting platform. My Impact 1875 Sport has a flip up seat. This does two important things for my family:
It doubles the size of the aft casting deck.
It allows my wife a “tanning platform” which, really, just makes everyone happier, don’t you think?
The Pro-V’s retain this option, and actually improve it, as the casting deck is broken into 3 parts and you can flip them up or down individually to access your livewell. The Impact 2025 XS, on the other hand, goes to the “jump seat” model. While this does save floor space, it also reduces this casting deck/tanning platform. I don’t like it!
Passenger Capacity and Where to Put Them
Setting aside my rant about casting platforms and tanning decks, we still have the gunnel storage situation to deal with. You will find that, as a family boat, your kids will have more places to sit, fish, eat, and play in the Impact 2025 XS than the do in the Pro-V 1975.
This is important, because the Impact 2025 XS can carry two more people than the Pro-V. Much of the reason for this is the “XS” designation in the first place, as this is technically a “fish and ski” model for Lund rather than a pure fishing model. The Impact 2025 XS was designed to be a family-friendly fishing boat where you could take the spouse, kids, and their friends or grandparents safely. The Pro-V is neither rated for this nor is there a place to put this many folks given the gunnel storage.
Cost of Ownership
Again, all the same arguments I went over with the 1875 models are going to apply here, except that both of these boats are large and should be using a 36-volt system for their trolling motors.
Another factor is your tow vehicle. The towing weight of the Pro-V 1975 is listed as 3546 lbs, and this is before you add any gear (and I believe before you add in for fuel). With a 51 gallon tank, you’re easily looking at 4,000 lbs when you factor in gear as well. That’s right at the 80% mark that many recommend you not exceed when it comes to vehicle towing capacity of many popular family SUVs, which is an important consideration. You’ll really want a vehicle that can tow more than 5,000lbs to get into either of these boats, but definitely the Pro-V 1975. You’d better like the looks of the Nissan Pathfinder.
The Verdict: Lund Pro-V 1975 or Lund Impact 2025 XS?
Not to sound like a broken record, but again it all depends on what you want. The Lund Pro-V started as a better boat from a “fishability” standpoint with the 1875, and doubles down on that in the 1975 length. Likewise, the Impact 2025 XS takes “family friendly” to a new level with the allowance of an 8th passenger, even if they can’t tan as easily from the back deck.
It all boils down to what you need and want in life. Are you a hardcore fisherman who brings hardcore fisherman buddies with you? Or, do you have little fishing buddies that just want to have fun? The Impact will be less expensive and better for children in general. The Pro-V will give you more options and ways to catch fish, but it’ll cost you.
Will My Next Boat be a Lund Impact or a Pro-V?
Bear in mind that I’m looking at these matchups from the perspective of “what should MY next boat be.” Given I have a Lund Impact 1875 Sport, in my mind it’s not until the 1975 class that the Pro-V starts to make more sense than the Impact. While I struggle to appreciate the added value when looking at two 1875s, the 1975 gives you a full foot of extra space to work with and compensate for the loss of seating space on the gunnels.
The Timing of Things…
Much of this will come down to when I pull the trigger. My son will by 6 this summer, and my daughter will be 3. In all honesty, I don’t need a different boat right now, and if I bought it, I’d be very concerned it would mostly be a garage queen. At the very least, it would spend the overwhelming majority of its time on teeny tiny lakes where a bigger boat really isn’t needed. Thus, if worst came to worst and I had to buy a new boat with an insurance check, I’d probably try and source a used Lund Impact 1875 Sport for the time being.
On the other hand, if things go to plan, and I buy a boat in the next five years, when my son is turning 11 and daughter is turning 8, the Pro-V would really start to come into its own. By then, the two of them shouldn’t need that recessed gunnel as much, and the extra length and durability of the Pro-V, coupled with the ability to put on a kicker and Talon, would become all the more appealing.
Later in life, when they both are in college and I’m “on my own” with my wife, I might take up guiding, which would require an entirely new approach (perhaps then you’ll see me start contemplating a 2075, or even a tiller).
It all depends on where you are. For now, I’ll stick with my rule of thumb:
If you have small children, buy a Lund Impact.
If your children are grown, by a Pro-V.
Thanks for Reading
I hope you enjoyed this article and found it insightful. I know that the question of “Should my next boat be an Impact or a Pro-V” has kept me up at night, scouring the internet! Please feel free to post a comment or to send me an email with any questions you might have.
Lund vs. Alumacraft might as well be the Pepsi vs. Coke of the multispecies boat world. Just about everyone who has ever thought of buying one of these vessels has researched these two brands, and probably wavered over which one to buy. That’s why you’re here reading this, right? In this article, I’m going to dance with the devil and answer a question that might just split my readership in two: Lund vs. Alumacraft: Who Makes the Better Boat?
Well, to cut to the chase, if you’re in the market for an entry-level family boat, Alumacraft makes much more sense. If you want a top-of-the-line tournament fishing boat, Lund is best. Finally, if you’re trying to buy a mid-tier boat, you’re going to spend many nights tossing and turning trying to figure out if you made the right call, because it’s very close! Want to know why? Read on!
I need to be completely up front that I own a Lund Impact. I have never owned the other Lund boats that I’m going to discuss. Likewise, I have also never owned an Alumacraft. I’m just a guy who, much like you, has spent a lot of time sifting through the internet and visiting boat dealerships researching both brands. I am going to analyze this research through the lens of someone who has been fishing from an Impact for close to a decade, but at the end of the day, this article is just one more piece of research for you to consider.
I’ll try and stay objective (not being sponsored by either brand or working for a dealership should help). This article is meant to put all of my research into one easy-to-find place to help others (and myself, when it’s time to buy a new boat). With that said, after reading this article, you should also go to walleyecentral.com and visit their boating forums for firsthand accounts from actual owners.
Because I do not own all of the boats I will discuss, this article is a little text-heavy. If anyone reading this owns one of these boats and would grant me permission to use their photos in this article, please send them to johnpaxton@fishingfather.com and I will include them to make the article easier on the eyes. Until then, buckle up and get ready for a Big Walleye Boat of Text (and who wouldn’t after that Dad Joke)?
Why Just These Two Brands?
I suppose a fair question is why I would focus on these two brands. After all, there are dozens of high-quality boat manufacturers out there, and it would be brazen of me to declare these two “the best” without so much as acknowledging the others, right? Well, yes. But… If you’re researching your next boat and have it narrowed down to Lund vs. Alumacraft, you’ve probably landed on those two brands because they’re both riveted aluminum boats with high name recognition and a tradition of value. That, and I suspect I’ll catch enough flak in the comments as is without annoying all other brand guys.
Rivets vs. Welds
One of the first things that people argue about when discussing best aluminum boats is their construction. Some people prefer welds, with a popular phrase being that the U.S. Navy does too (I have no idea how accurate that is, but it is a saying for sure). On the other hand, some people prefer rivets, noting that this is what those giant chunks of metal hurtling through the skies at hundreds of miles of hours known as “airplanes” use.
This article isn’t really meant to delve into this debate. I prefer rivets because I figure if one fails, I can either fix it myself the right way, or, if I’m being lazy, slop some J-B Weld on it and call it a day. I don’t have the tools or skillset to fix a busted weld on the fly. If you’re landing on either a Lund or Alumacraft, you’ve probably decided you want a riveted boat too, as both of these brands use them.
Name Recognition & Tradition of Value
People know all about Lund. They know that it is a vaunted brand, much like Harley-Davidson is to motorcycles. They hold their resale value extremely well and when you see a used one put up for a fair price, it is snatched almost instantly. Much like a house in a highly-desired neighborhood, you’d better show up cash in hand and close the deal that day or else it is good as gone.
Alumacraft isn’t quite there on name recognition or resale value, but it’s close. It’s certainly a well-recognized brand and pops up in almost all the same discussions as Lund. There have to be a few dozen different boat manufacturers, yet these two are almost always in the same sentence. If Lund is the traditional “gold standard,” then Alumacraft being the boat that’s constantly pitted up against it says something.
All the same, there must be a winner, and Lund gets the title when it comes to name recognition.
Other Considerations in the Lund vs. Alumacraft Debate
There are a few other things you need to consider before landing on a Lund or Alumacraft boat, such as their respective customizability, dealership networks and also what outboard motors they each offer. Let’s review both in some detail as this will help you narrow your focus between the brands.
Customizability
If this was a contest about which brand can be customized with more options, Alumacraft wins hands down, or at least when it comes to the important choices of motors, and aft flip-up seating options.
Motor Options
Look, if you want to buy a Lund, you are buying one with a Mercury or Honda outboard. Any guy who buys one with anything else bought the boat and motor separate and had the dealer rig it. While possible, that’s a real pain.
Alumacraft, on the other hand, lets you use darn near any motor you’d like. Just looking at their boat builder, they offer Mercury, Evinrude, Honda, Suzuki, and Yamaha. It’s no contest. If choice of motor is important to you, Alumacraft wins.
Aft Seating
At first glance, it would appear that some of the Alumacraft boats discussed below don’t doesn’t offer any kind of aft-seating option, however when you go into the boat builder, there is an option for a flip-up bench seat in the back on all of the models I discuss. I assume this is like the one on my Impact, which probably doubles the size of the rear casting deck, and allows for bench seating when necessary. This is a great option.
As you can see, its just a matter of installing some hinges and having a bench seat that fits, but Lund doesn’t offer this on some of their entry level boats, and other ones have individual flip-up seats that don’t extend the all important rear casting/”wife & girlfriend tanning” deck. Since you can get this on all the Alumacraft boats I’ll discuss here, they get the nod for this category.
Fiberglass Option
The only place Lund pulls ahead in customizability is the choice between fiberglass and aluminum hulls. Alumacraft stays true to their name and lacks any fiberglass hulls while Lund offers a few models with a fiberglass option. Perhaps some day I’ll write an article researching the comparative value of Lund Fiberglass vs. some fiberglass competitors like Ranger.
Dealership Network
Not every boat brand has a dealer near you. I know some of you reading this from out west are saying, “Story of my life” and you’re used to long drives for anything, but it’s something to consider. While I’ve read about plenty of folks driving 20 hours for a boat or even having them shipped, I wouldn’t be comfortable doing that.
Warranty and Repair Concerns
The main reason I’d be more than a bit uncomfortable buying from a dealer more than about 4-6 hours away is I’d be concerned what would happen if something went wrong with my boat.
Think of it this way: there are four main ways something can go wrong with a boat:
You messed something up;
Your dealer messed something up;
The factory messed something up;
A gremlin messed something up.
Now, if you messed something up, I suppose any old boat repair shop near you would do. There’d be no need to repeat that 20-hour hike to bring it back to the dealer you bought it from.
On the other hand, if the dealer made a mistake, they’d be the right entity to fix it, no? Certainly they’d be the one most likely to fix it free of charge.
Likewise, if the factory had an off day, you’d want to partner with their dealer – not some closer, other brand’s – to resolve the issue. With modern technology (especially after this crash course in virtual everything given COVID-19), this might be possible from home with a smart phone, but then again, it might not.
Gremlins are the worst, because they tend to only manifest for you and magically are fine when you bring it to the shop. While this “could” be one of those situations where any mechanic will do, you also might be better off with the folks who service oodles of these boats and may have met this gremlin before to, you know?
Lack of Leverage
I know you might have your heart set on that Lund, but if you have three Alumacraft dealers near you and only one Lund dealer, which brand do you think you can get the better deal with, honestly? Forget the sticker price. Which dealer is going to work with you more? The one who has fierce competition, or the only game in town?
I own a Gheenoe LT-10. It’s an awesome little flats boat/canoe that is a dime a dozen in Florida where it is manufactured. My options were to drive 4 hours to one dealer, or 10 hours to the next. My dealer was well aware I had these options. I paid sticker price.
Granted, a Gheenoe is far more unique than an aluminum fishing boat so you could always tell the dealer you’re considering different brands, but you get my point.
Other Thoughts – Or, “Please Don’t Hate Me for Copping Out”
I have to tell you, I had these grandiose plans for what I was going to do here. I even got going with about an hour worth of research to help you out as to what states had how many boat dealers and what not, but what I found was that neither Lund, Alumacraft, or even Google do that great of a job of telling you all your options. Lund’s website, for example, only gives you the 4 closest dealers to the city you input. Alumacraft provides the closest 3 to a zip code. Google, on the other hand, seems to crawl for any type of “Lund” or “Alumacraft” reference, or maybe even just uses boats for sale even if they’re used – it’s hard to tell exactly what is going on, but I found a ton of false signals.
What I will tell you is that Lund and Alumacraft are, primarily, known for multi-species boats. Given this, it should come as no surprise to you that regions where walleye, lake trout, and northern pike are popular and prevalent also tend to have more of these dealers. Once you move to more “bassy” areas, the numbers plummet.
For example, I was able to locate 7 Lund dealers in New York (which features Lake Erie, Lake Ontario, Lake Champlain, Lake George, and other popular “trolling” lakes). In contrast, despite the immense popularity of fishing in Texas, I could locate only 2 Lund dealers in that entire state.
Likewise, just the greater Minneapolis metropolitan area has at least 4 Lund Dealerships while the entire state of Florida has only 2. Again, Florida is not exactly bereft of fishermen.
So, if you’re concerned about the maintenance and warranty issues I described earlier, you might want to pick the brand that has a dealership somewhat near you.
Grandiose plans dashed, I hope at least the knowledge that you need to dig a little deeper with these searches will help you avoid missing your next great dealer. If anyone from Lund or Alumacraft should ever read this, it’d be great if you allowed one to search within certain miles, and listed more than 4 and 3 dealers respectively.
Anyway, with that aside, let’s dive into some of the boats.
How to Compare a Lund vs. Alumacraft Boat?
I’ve wanted to write this article for awhile now given how great these boats are for families, but I’ve struggled with how to approach it. This isn’t as simple as comparing a family sedan. An apples to oranges comparison is very challenging to find in many categories. For example, Lund really doesn’t have a “Better than midrange, but not quite top-of-the-line Pro-V” type boat, such as the Alumacraft Tournament Pro. On the other hand, Alumacraft doesn’t have a high-end aluminum bass boat, such as the Pro-V Bass, or an aircraft carrier…er “very large trolling boat” like the Lund Baron. Likewise, Lund’s midrange boat, the Impact, doesn’t have half as many layout or size options as Alumacraft’s Competitor.
Because of this, it’s extremely hard to just take two boats of “Class A” and stack them up next to each other, list their stats, and make a decision based on that. It wouldn’t do justice to the brands, or help you much. Instead, what I am going to do is to break this article into three categories:
Entry level boats (for those who just want to get started).
All Around Value boats (for the families that fish a lot, but not competitively).
Tournament Series boats (for the competitive angler).
Note that both brands build other types of boats, but this is a family website and these are the most family-friendly types of fishing vessels.
A Note on Pricing
Note that (when available) I will give the MSRP price directly from the manufacturer website. The ONLY thing I will add is the cost of the MOTOR when necessary, and I will let you know what motor I chose. I will not select any other options from the brands’ various “boat builders.”
Even though Alumacraft offers more outboard options than Lund, I’m going to use Mercury Outboards, when possible, as an apples to apples comparison. Pricing may change significantly depending on what outboard you had in mind.
Again (I’m stressing this!), these prices are with absolutely no options other than a basic trailer and motor. They areall subject to change at any time, and are all based on MSRP sourced directly from the manufacturer websites in March of 2021. The manufacturers could decide to change these (probably higher, at the rate things are going) at any moment!!! Use these as a “GUIDELINE.” I cannot be held liable for what happens if you use these prices to sell your wife on the idea of buying one of these, and then she finds out what they really cost fully rigged! I can’t help you, fellas! You are on your own – I can’t stress it enough!
Unfortunately, Alumacraft does not show as many prices as Lund, so I have to do a little detective work in some cases. I’ll note when this happens. I’ll let you be the judge as to how good a sleuth I am.
Perhaps we can all look back on this post ten years from now, when at the rate it’s going, boats are probably a few hundred grand, and have a little group hug over “the good ol’ days.” This disclaimer goes for the entirety of this article!
Having said all that, let’s get to the fun part and start talking about boats!
Entry Level Boats for Families
Both Lund and Alumacraft offer very basic boats that come with no frills and are basically meant for fishing camps. This is not what I’m talking about when I say “entry level boat.” Instead, we’re going to discuss the entry level offerings of each brand that get you the following specifications:
An outboard motor of at least 50 horsepower.
A walkthrough windshield option.
A passenger capacity of at least 5 people.
A rod locker of some sort.
These four options are what I would consider the bare-minimum for a fun day fishing with your family. Granted, not everyone wants a walkthrough windshield, but you ought to have the option. I grew up fishing on a boat that didn’t have one, and it could be miserable!
Lund Angler & Rebel XL
Lund offers two boat models that I’d consider “entry level” and which check all the boxes above: the Angler and the Rebel XL.
The Angler is less expensive but also smaller than the Rebel XL. While both are about the same length (16’5″ for the Angler vs. 16’7″ for the Rebel XL), the Rebel XL has a 5″ wider beam. The Rebel can take a 90-hp motor as opposed to a 60-hp for the Angler. Finally, the Rebel has a 19-gallon fuel tank as opposed to the piddly 6.5-gallon tank on the Angler.
While the layout is fairly similar between the two, the Rebel XL comes with some very handy features. First and foremost being the flip up seating option in the back. This turns the rear casting deck into extra seating for your kids, which is handy because it means you only need to use two of the four seat bases behind the windshield. With the Angler, if you want your kids to have a backrest, they’re either sitting on the floor, or you need to use all the seat bases. This is NOT something you want to do on a 16′ boat where space is limited to begin with.
Both are lightweight to tow, with the entire packing coming in at less than a ton. Assuming you don’t drive like a maniac, you should be able to tow these safely with vehicles that have around 2,500 – 3,000lb towing capacities, though given the weight of gear I’d be more comfortable on the higher end of that with a Rebel XL. In any event, there is no need to buy a truck or giant SUV to haul these boats around.
The Lund Angler can safely carry 5 passengers while the Rebel XL carries 6. This is an important consideration considering the size of your family and if you want to bring any friends along.
Potential Pricing (Rough Estimate)
To rig an Angler up with a maxed-out 60-hp motor, you’d be set back $24,196 according to the MSRP sourced in March of 2021 (and this is before you rig it). In contrast, a Rebel XL with a 90-hp Mecury has an MSRP of $29,116 (also before rigging). Note that this is more than I paid for my fully-rigged 2012 Lund Impact 1875 Sport with a 115-hp motor in 2012. Yes, these prices are getting ridiculous.
Alumacraft Classic & Voyageur
Our friends at Alumacraft also offer two “entry level” boats that have an option for a walkthrough windshield, can have at least a 50-hp motor, can carry at least 5 people, and have a rod locker of some sort: the Classic and the Voyager.
Alumacraft Classic
While Alumacraft offers several less expensive boats that could be called “entry level,” the Classic series is the first one with the walkthrough windshield. As stated above in the customizability section, it also allows an aft flip-up seat. When you go down a bit and see what their likely price is, this is a fantastic combo of options that many families can afford. You get a heck of a lot of boat for your money with these.
Look at all these things you get for the price:
A 16’4″ boat with a windshield
Two lockable 7′ rod lockers
A 17 gallon fuel tank
A max hull thickness of 0.145”
A max horsepower of 90
These are all better than the Lund Angler (their most entry level boat with a windshield). Additionally, the Alumacraft Classic has a winder beam by an inch and a half. Remember those old Pontiac commercials “Wider is better?” Well, in boating it often is.
Potential Pricing
Unfortunately, the boat builder on Alumacraft is not giving me pricing for the Classic 165 Sport with a 90-hp motor. I’m not sure if that is just a bug or what as they let you see the MSRP pricing on other models. What I can tell you is that they’re advertising it as “starting at $18,799 MSRP.” This almost certainly means with a 50-hp motor, which is the smallest option. Going on Lund’s website (I know, I know, “Lund, Lund, Lund…” But their website is better with showing prices – what do you want from me?), the 90-hp Mercury goes for about $2,500 more than the 50-hp. So, we’re probably looking at around $21,299. Again, don’t quote me on this and ask your dealer. I’m doing the best I can and making a reasonable guess with the information at hand.
Regardless, I think it’s at least safe to say that even if I’m off a bit, an Alumacraft Classic is going to cost significantly less than a Lund Rebel XL.
Alumacraft Voyageur
The Voyageur on the other hand is the first boat we’ve looked at so far that goes up to the 17′ class. I’d still put it in this entry level class however given its pricing, which I’ll explain further down.
The Voyageur is the first boat we’ve discussed that has a center rod box. This is handy because it’s more out of the way than the port or starboard rod boxes on the other models (kids tend to like to sit on these). Like the Classic, it too apparently can be fitted with a flip-up bench seat. Thus, the Voyageur is the first boat that basically looks like its bigger rivals. Indeed, its motto is “It’ll make bigger boats out there jealous!” Yeah – that pretty much sums it up!
From what I can tell, the Alumacraft Voyageur weighs in at 1,070 which is only 105lb heavier than the Rebel XL. While the larger motor will also have some increased weight, you should–for the most part–be able to tow a Voyageur with most vehicles that could also tow the Rebel XL.
Potential Pricing
As with the Classic, it’s hard to tell exactly what a Voyageur is going to go for without asking a dealer for a quote. It’s nationally advertised price is $23,899, but that is probably with the bare-bones 70-hp motor. As it goes to 125-hp, you can expect to pay several thousand more if you were to go that route. I can’t even find a Merc 70 or 125 for sale on Lund’s site, so the best comparison I can use is a 115. The price difference between the 75-hp and 115-hp is about $1,800. Given this, I’d expect that you could get into a Voyageur with a 115-hp Mercury motor at an MSRP of under $26,000. Note that this is several less thousand dollars than a Lund Rebel XL despite being a longer boat.
The Verdict: Alumacraft
Look, I’m a Lund guy through and through, but I have to give Alumacraft the nod here. They offer a better value for an entry level boat. Remember, much of the reason you’re buying a Lund is because of the name, for better or worse. You need to ask yourself, if you’re just in this for an entry level boat, what does that name really mean? At some point, is an entry level Lexus really better than a top of the line Toyota?
It seems that you can save a lot of money getting a bigger boat (Voyageur) from Alumacraft. It will come with a bigger motor, aft flip-up seating, and center rod box. You’ll likely get all this for less price than a Lund Rebel XL, and can even pick which motor you want (and your mechanic services).
If you went with the most base of base models, the Classic vs. the Angler, it’s really not much of a comparison. It’s almost not fair, and the Angler’s just here because of the windshield. All the same, that’s the guidelines I set out, and sticking to them, if you want an entry level boat, Alumacraft is going to be your better option.
All Around Value Boat
Who makes the best “all around value” multispecies boat between Alumucraft and Lund is, perhaps, the greatest can of worms in this thread. If you weren’t furiously typing an email or comment just yet, I trust you will shortly. I will say one thing right up front: Alumacraft has way more options here than Lund. Indeed, as we’ll see in the top-tier boat segment, Alumacraft seems to have a much different business model. Whereas Lund basically has “a mid-level boat” class, Alumacraft has “type of boat that has everything from entry level to high level.”
What do I mean by that? It’s clunky, I know… Well, look at the Alumacraft Competitor. This is ostensibly the main competition to the Lund Impact (which is Lund’s “best value” brand), yet it has boats strong enough to be included in the premium discussion (and indeed is probably one of the better premium boats Alumacraft offers). There’s a world of difference between an Alumacraft Competitor 205 and 165, for example. That’s a range that you just don’t really see with the Impact, unless you go up to the Impact 2025 XS, which has some pretty distinct variations that make it, in my mind, an Impact in name only.
Let’s take a closer look at what each manufacturer offers.
Lund Impact
This is the boat I own, the boat I love, and the boat I potty trained my son on. It has taken me on many great adventures across New England, and opened up Lake Champlain in ways my old man’s boat, “Sinky,” never could. I’m completely enamored by it, as you can tell from my full-length review.
The Lund Impact, in my mind, is probably the best value boat that Lund offers. I have never felt like my boat was “too small” on Lake Champlain. Indeed, it has even gotten me through a microburst once, which sucked, but I made it. I’ve had no issues taking my whole family out for a spin as well as bringing some friends with the 7 person rating.
The Impact has nice options like aft flip up seating, sliding drawers under each console, and recessed gunnel storage that acts as another place to fish (I love this).
Sizing Them Up
The Impact comes in three sizes:
1675 – 16’10” long with a 90″ beam, max hp of 90, and max speed of 42 mph.
1775 – 17’11” long with a 96″ beam, max hp of 125, and max speed of 45mph.
1875 – 18’11” long with a 96″ beam, max hp of 150, and max speed of 52 mph.
I’ve noticed that most guys go with the 1775. This does seem to be a good choice given that you get the wider beam. From what I’ve seen, not many have gone with a 125 hp motor and instead seem content with a 115. This seems to be the “sweet spot” for this combo, as far as I can tell.
Potential Pricing
As of writing, Lund is listing the Impacts with a starting price range of $27,087 – $32,649. You’ll get the 1675 with its recommended 90hp motor for this, but the others have smaller motors. Even so, my 1875 has the 115 you’ll get for that $32,649, and I’ll tell you – I don’t miss the 150.
Alumacraft Competitor
Again, it’s hard to judge what a comparable Alumacraft is because they simply offer their boats in a much wider range of options than Lund. The Competitor series is a great example of that. Competitors come in a variety of lengths and options, but their higher-end ones are really starting to look like Pro-V competition, so I discuss those a bit further. For the purposes of this mid-range boat discussion, I’m going to do the best I can to compare apples to apples by focusing on three models: the 165, 175, and 185. First, some stats (Alumacraft doesn’t list top speeds). Note that these are for Sport models that have a dual windshield.
165 – 16’7″ long with a 87″ beam, max hp of 90
175 – 17’8″ long with a 95″ beam, max hp of 150
185 – 18’8″ long, 95″ beam, max hp of 175
So, compared to the Impacts, you will get a shorter, narrower boat, but you’re also going to get 25 more horses on both the 175 and 185. Alumacraft doesn’t list top speeds, but one would expect that they would edge out the Impact slightly.
Note that most if not all of the features you’re going to see on an Impact you’ll also see in the Competitor (albeit in their own licensed version). The Competitor has the same recessed gunnel storage as the Impact that I think is so valuable, for example.
The storage in general looks pretty similar between the two boats with Alumacraft having a slightly different layout up front.
Customizability
As with all Alumacraft boats, where they really pull ahead over Lund is their customizability. Not only can you get far more types engines on an Alumacraft straight from the dealer, but every level of their competitor series comes in three trims: sport with a walk through windshield, a CS model that has one windscreen for the driver, and–excitingly–a tiller option. This is something Lund simply doesn’t allow for on their Impact line, and is huge in my opinion.
Potential Pricing
As of March 2021, and with the usual disclaimers, Alumacraft has an MSRP on their site of anywhere from $21,899 (165 Sport) to $44,460 (185 Sport, presumably with a maxed hp engine, given there is a range). I’d mentioned above that Lund offers the 1875 Impact at $32,649 but this was with the 115. If you play around with their boat builder, the MSRP jumps to $42,988 with a 150 hp. Given the Alumacraft’s top price reflects a 175hp, it’s probably fair to say that the price of a 150 is comparable or perhaps slightly less expensive than the Impact.
The Verdict: Very Slight Edge to Alumacraft
This is much closer than the entry level section, but in my completely subjective analysis from researching both boats, I think I have to give the Competitor the slight edge, at least for value wise. I love my Lund Impact, and frankly probably would go with another one over the Competitor again, but I have to face facts. All of the following edges belong to Alumacraft:
I could get any motor I want, and a larger one (at least in the 175 and 185).
The features I love on the Impact, such as recessed gunnel storage, are also available on the Competitor.
I could have a tiller layout if I wanted (and I’m seriously considering this).
I could probably save money on the boat and use that to upgrade my electronics.
Lund does have a few things going for it:
The Impact is longer and wider.
A Lund most likely is going to have better resale value.
I honestly don’t think you could go wrong with either and perhaps the resale value associated with the brand will make up for the slightly higher cost
Tournament Series Boat
While the mid-tier section was challenging because of how convoluted it is between Lund and Alumacraft boats, once you move up to true top-of-the-line, premium, tournament series boats, the challenge becomes how to discuss something that is so unfair. Lund simply has horses in its stable that Alumacraft lacks.
Top-Tier Alumacraft Boats
This time we’ll start with Alumacraft. If you go to their website, it’s hard to even tell what they think their best boat is (a running theme of this article is, after all, that Alumacraft’s website is inferior to Lund’s — that’s a hill I’ll die on). It seems that the options boil down to three: the Tournament Pro, the Trophy, or the Competitor 205.
The Tournament Pro
The Tournament Pro comes in two lengths:
The 185 is 18’3″ long with a 97″ beam, max hp of 175, and no listed top speed.
The 195 is 19’3″ long with a 97″ beam, max hp of 200, and no listed top speed.
I mean, these are better than the Lund Impact offerings but they aren’t really “top-tier” numbers either. Honestly, the only reason it’s written here is because of its name and position on Alumacraft’s website, but this is basically just a nicer Impact, or an Impact 2025 competitor, in my opinion.
The Alumacraft Trophy
The Trophy comes in four lengths:
Though we’ll ignore it given its tiny size, the Trophy 175.
The Trophy 185 is 18’8″ long with a 98″ beam, max hp of 175, and no listed top speed.
Trophy 195 is 19’8″ long with a 98″ beam, max hp of 200, and no listed top speed
Trophy 205 is 20’8″ long with a 98″ beam, max hp of 300 and no listed top speed.
Clearly the 195 approaches “top tier” and the 205 is in it, though I will note as you look below you’ll find it is shorter and has a narrower beam than the Pro-V. Does this, in turn, mean that it is also faster? Perhaps, but on these boats I’m looking for maximum stability and would trade 1-2 mph for 3-4″ of width, personally.
There’s nothing “wrong” with the Trophy. It comes iwth
Well What about the Competitor?
The Competitor Series that we examined in the mid-range section is back, this time with the 205. It really seems like Alumacraft’s business model is to offer multiple types of boats that have different tiers associated with them, rather than building multiple tiers of boats like Lund. So here we are with the Competitor 205.
The Competitor 205 is 20’6″ long with a 96″ beam, max hp of 250, and no listed top speed.
Of these three options, frankly, the Competitor is probably the one I’d go with because it’s the only one of the three that offers something clearly “better” in some way than the Lund Pro-V: an enormous front casting deck. Seriously, go take a peek at the way this boat is laid out. If you fish alone frequently and like to fish from the front of the boat, you might legitimately like the layout of the Competitor better than the other boats. It certainly gives me pause.
Another great option with the Competitor is that the 205 comes in a tiller, which isn’t an option with any of the Lund’s we’ve discussed (though it is with the Pro Guide).
A Note on (Potential) Pricing
No offense to Alumacraft, but their other models don’t have the same size as Lund’s, nor the options that I’ll get into further down. There price is absolutely better, however, as the Tournament Pro 195 has an MSRP of $52,500, Competitor 205 has an MSRP of $55,840, and the Trophy 205 has an MSRP of $61,400. The Lund Pro-V 2075, on the other hand, has an MSRP of $71,539 – and that’s with a motor that’s 2/3 as powerful as the boat is rated for.
That in and of itself says something, but again, a theme of this article has been “You can get a lot of boat from Alumacraft for less price than a Lund.”
However, now let’s flip the script a bit and look at why I claim Lund makes the better top-of-the-line boat.
The Lund Pro-V Bass
First off, let’s just get this straight right off the bat: Lund makes a viable bass boat for professional bass tournament fishermen. Alumacraft doesn’t. It’s really that simple. Alumacraft makes “bass style” boats, like the Pro Series, Prowler Series, and Crappie Deluxe Series, sure, but these are all for the weekend angler. Lund’s 2075 Pro V Bass Boat is a legitimate contender on the professional bass tournament trail, and they have an Elite Series win to prove it.
The Pro-V Bass Series comes in two lengths (18’9″ and 20’10”) and four models (each has a standard bench seat bass boat style option, and then an “XS” line which stands for ‘Extra Seating’ and has some flip seats, making it the better family craft).
While 60mph is pretty slow for a bass boat, that’s balanced by the IPS2 hull design that is shared with its deep-v cousin, the “true” Pro-V. By researching some fishing forums of guys who have used these, the consensus seems to be that the Lund is typically going to do better in heavy water given the IPS2, though the “true” bass boats of course have better top-end speed. That didn’t seem to matter much to Jeff Gustafson when he took home that Elite Series win.
Anyway, if you’re looking for an aluminum bass boat that can clearly hang with the best the world has to offer, you’re options between these two brands are limited to one.
The Lund Pro-V
The Lund Pro-V is one of the most beautiful inventions anyone has ever thought of or built. There is nothing not to like about this boat (except for its extreme price). It comes in four sizes:
The 1875 is 18’10” long with a 97″ beam, max hp of 200, and a top speed of 56 mph.
The 1975 is 19’10” long with a 100″ beam, max hp of 225, and a top speed of 56 mph.
The 2075 is 20’10” long with a 102″ beam, max hp of 300, and a top speed of 61 mph.
The 2175 is 21’10” long with a 102″ beam, max hp of 400, and a top speed of 61 mph.
Frankly, I don’t see much point in getting the 1875. I don’t think it’s that much better of a boat than the Lund Impact, all things considered, and I greatly prefer the extra interior space that the Impact provides. Space is at a premium on any boat but becomes all the more important as overall length decreases. If you’re going to buy a Pro-V, I’d start your research at the 1975 where you get a wider beam, you get an extra foot of length, and you really start getting the value of the true premium line.
The Best Feature of Any Boat Known to Man
There’s plenty of websites with exact specifications of these boats and every little detail (including photos), but for the purposes of this article (a.k.a. why you should buy the Lund Pro-V instead of an Alumacraft boat), here’s what I love — and I mean love — about this boat is the fact that you can easily have a kicker motor, shallow water anchor, and a rescue ladder, all in one. This is because of what I think is one of the most ingenious parts of this boat – on their port side, in the gunnel, there is a recessed rescue ladder. Now, is it perfect? No. Will you probably swear a bit while you’re climbing up it? Sure. Does it allow you to safely and legally have all of these cool toys on the back of your boat, allowing you to handle literally any condition? You bet your butt it does!
If I’m buying a premium boat, I don’t want to compromise, and without this option, I’d have to. This option allows you to put a Talon where it’s designed to go, put a kicker where it’s designed to go, put your electronic transducers where they’re designed to go, and still have a boarding ladder if something goes wrong. This little option is so incredible and game changing that I can’t believe other manufacturers haven’t all adopted the idea, yet they haven’t.
Other Options
In addition to this one little feature that I’m raving about, you get literally the best of everything that Lund has to offer, thrown into this boat. There’s an IPS2 hull, composite transom (in recent model years), thick aluminum, their best livewell system, and more storage than some apartments. Additionally, it has a multi-part aft flip-up seating option that allows you to just flip the part you need to, when you need to (so you can access your livewell, for example. There is literally no compromise whatsoever with this boat.
For an in-depth video tour of this amazing boat, check out Waconda Boat’s YouTube video. You should subscribe to their channel too, as they come out with new ones each year. I know I hit like and subscribe so I could keep in touch with their videos, as they’re informative and really give you a great idea of what the boat can offer. Not all of us live near a Lund dealer, period, much less one that carries so many different brands, so definitely check their website out.
The Verdict: Lund
Remember at the beginning of this article where I said I was a Lund guy, and how if you are too, you were all expecting this to be a Lund parade the whole way through? Well, sorry to disappoint on the earlier boats, but when it comes to a true tournament series, top-of-the-line offering, Lund wins, hands down.
Look, I’m not saying that there aren’t plenty of professional walleye guys out there fishing from Alumacrafts. There certainly are, and they’re holding their own just like the Lund guys are. I’m just saying two things: (1) Alumacraft doesn’t even have a legitimate top-end bass boat to fish a tournament with (yet), and (2) the Lund Pro-V is probably the single sweetest aluminum multispecies boat that ever graced the water.
If you all start buying my book (which I really hope you will, since this website doesn’t pay for itself!) and I suddenly find myself with the cash to part with my dear, sweet Lund Impact (affectionately known as, “Penelope”) then I am buying a Lund Pro-V, and the only question is if I go with the more affordable 1975, or the true world-class 2075. There is nothing in Alumacraft’s lineup that excites me as much as these two boats, and while I’m sure that the Alumacraft’s boats are fine boats, in this case, the Premium brand pulls far ahead on the Premium, tournament series boat category.
Conclusions
Look, if you already own one of these boats, there’s no need for buyer’s remorse. Frankly, any boat that you already own is a steal at this point with the way boat prices are running through the roof. So, no need for tears if I was “mean” to your favorite boat or brand. If you’re sitting in it already, you got a good deal. Also, what the heck do I know, anyway? Again, this is a research project – me looking at different boats on the internet. Don’t be afraid to ask actual owners what they like and don’t like.
If, however, you’re trying to figure out what brand of boat you want to buy, you need to be discerning. As I’ve said right from the start, I’m a Lund guy. That could wind up costing me a lot of money if I’m not careful. Alumacraft offers high-quality boats, that are much more customizable, at a better price point than Lund. However, Lund offers better top-end models with features Alumacraft’s best can’t compete with. Which one you purchase is going to depend on your circumstances.
If you’re a family guy who likes to take his kids fishing, then, all things being equal, Alumacraft is probably the better value. You’ll get a boat that will do everything you need it to do without an expensive surcharge for a name.
If you’re a professional fisherman, Lund seems to be the best choice. On the other hand, how many tournaments do you have to win, or clients do you have to take, before you make up the price difference?
If you have a really specific need such
Wrapping Up
Well, folks, that’s it for this time. I hope you enjoyed this article and found it insightful. I know I tried to provide some value here to help you determine the best boat for you and your famil.y
Thanks and have a great day for fishing,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
I purchased my 2012 Lund Impact 1875 Sport, or “Penelope” as I call her, in the late fall of 2012. Since then I’ve taken her across many New England waters and caught countless fish. I couldn’t be happier with my purchase and thought I’d write an in-depth review of the Lund Impact 1875 sport from the perspective of eight years of ownership.
In this article, I’ll discuss why the Lund Impact lineup is an affordable boat that works great for families with small kids. I’ll discuss its layout, and why I prefer it over the Pro-V. I’ll also answer some questions you often see on fishing forums including whether you should buy the 1775 or 1875 Lund Impact, if you need to opt for the 150 hp motor, and if you should buy a Pro-V instead. Finally, I’ll talk about what maintenance I’ve had to do on this boat over the years and what problems I’ve had.
Why I Bought My Lund Impact
I’ve been fishing since I was a kid and used to go all the time with my dad when I was young. Then, like many boys I suppose, I got more interested in girls than fishing for a few years and put it away until I rekindled the hobby when I was in my mid-20’s and taking my girlfriend (now wife) out on some adventures.
Unfortunately, Dad’s boat (a late 1980s Fisher Hawk) wasn’t anywhere near as big as I remembered it from my youth, and had an alarming habit of sinking frequently, so I decided I needed to stop borrowing dad’s boat and buy one of my own.
As I suspect many of you reading this are doing now, I started researching everything I could about the various boat brands and asking all the same kinds of questions (rivet vs. weld? Should I max out my motor?) that you’re probably asking too.
Having done my due diligence, I decided that I wanted to get a high-quality, riveted boat. I started looking around and going to boat shows and originally thought that a Lund Rebel XL would be the perfect boat for me.
I started calling some dealers and found one that had a Rebel XL in stock about 100 miles away. He told me over the phone that he also had an Impact and I told him it was about $5,000 more than I wanted to spend. He told me it was about $10,000 more boat than I’d get with the Rebel XL. Anyway, I drove up and saw the two side by side and after doing that, there was no comparison. The Impact it was!
My Lund Impact 1875 Sport
I bought my boat from Yankee Boating Center as a year-end clearance, meaning she was still sitting on the dealer’s lot in late fall. You’d never believe me if I told you what I paid for her as the prices have grown astronomically since then, but let’s just say I got a steal by buying a boat just before winter, and I think I’d probably pay about twice as much just 8 years later.
My 2012 Impact 1875 Sport left the marina with the following options:
1875 sport meaning it has the full walk-through windshield.
A 115 Mercury 4-stroke motor (note: it is rated for 150 hp).
A 24-volt, 80 lb thrust Minnkota Terrova trolling motor.
The popular cargo net option up front and under the consoles (newer models replace these with sliding drawers, which is an upgrade).
Aft flip up seating (or the “tanning deck” as my wife called it).
A complete vinyl floor (read: godsend).
I literally bought what was left on the lot, so I didn’t get to choose my options. Nonetheless, I’ve been very happy with this setup and found it worked well for my family. Let’s talk a bit about why I like these options.
Walk Through Windshield
My Lund Impact is a “sport model,” which means it comes with a walk through windshield. While this does cut down on available fishing space, the first cold, windy day on Lake Champlain convinced me that I prefer it over the single windshield SS.
One downside to a walk through windshield is that it’s one more thing to break. Forums and Facebook are filled with folks who’ve had a rock on the highway ruin their fishing trip. You can mitigate this concern by using your travel cover, but this is impractical if you’re just headed to the lake, as it takes awhile to remove. A better option is purchasing a dedicated windshield cover that goes on and off quickly. A company named Truxedo makes a boat windshield cover that many people vouch for.
24-Volt Trolling Motor on Lund Impact 1875 Sport
I’ve found my 24-volt trolling motor to be perfectly sufficient for this boat. It can propel it close to 3 mph depending on conditions and works fine for trolling. I don’t have a kicker motor on mine so this is all I use to troll.
I have a Minnkota Terrova with the spotlock function, and it works so well I haven’t used my anchor once in eight years. It is, however, getting a bit uppity and I might need to replace it sooner than later. Eight years is a long time for a trolling motor, especially since I fish so many electric-only lakes, so I definitely got my money out of it.
The 80lb thrust and spot lock is sufficient to hold my Lund Impact steady even in strong winds on Lake Champlain. I fish near several dangerous reefs such as one extending across the mouth of much of Bulwagga Bay, so you can trust me that this works well because otherwise I might not be here to tell you!
I have seen a few guys go with a 36-volt system on their Lund Impacts. Given how much I use it, it’s an option I would consider in the future simply because I want to extend its battery life, and a 36-volt would allow me to use lower settings with my light boat. Even so, I have no complaints about the 24-volt and I wouldn’t sit up at night worrying about it if that’s all your dealer has in stock (which is probably so).
Cargo Netting Option
My boat came with cargo nets along both sides of the bow as well as underneath each console. They’re handy places to tuck away gear such as dock line or even some tackle boxes, and I’d buy them again in the bow, but I wouldn’t get them underneath the consoles if I was building a brand new boat.
Rather than under-console cargo netting, I would greatly prefer to have the sliding drawers under the consoles that came out a few model years later. It would be much more convenient to pull out a drawer than to get down on the floor and try to reach stuff tucked far back past the netting.
Aft Flip-Up Seating
I do think the aft flip up seat is absolutely critical. I leave it down 90% of the time and it makes for an expansive casting platform. You have tons of room to maneuver while you fish and don’t have to worry about falling down like you do with some other walleye-style boats. My wife also loves it because it is her personal tanning deck. This is a family-friendly website so we won’t get into the bikini pictures here but suffice it to say, you should get this option for your wife or girlfriend. It’s well worth it.
Should You Buy a 1775 or 1875 Lund Impact?
You can’t go wrong with either option. The reason I went with the 1875 is because it allows you to have three rows of seating. As you can somewhat make out from the photo above, there are two seat bases directly in front of the aft flip-up seating. With the 1875, you can fit two chairs in these while having the seating deployed. In the 1775, you can’t, as the bases are partially covered by the deployed casting platform. With that said, this was on the older (2012 in particular) models and I’m not sure if it applies to the newer ones that have different aft seating options.
Should You Buy a 115 hp or 150 hp Motor for Your Lund Impact?
This debate is constantly raging on forums like walleye central and other places Lund discussions are found. Many dealers stock their inventory with 115 hp motors, and many buyers are leery of purchasing these as they feel they have to “max out” the horsepower for better performance and resale value.
Speed and Power
Well, I don’t know what to tell you on this. Yes, Lund’s website claims about a 12 mph differential on the 1875 Impact between the 115 and 150 hp outboard (source). I can verify that my boat is equipped with a 115 and runs on average 38-42 mph, which is in line with the 40 mph posted on Lund’s site.
Would it be better to go 50 or 52 mph? I mean, I certainly don’t need to. The important question is, do you?
Even maxed out, you aren’t going to catch the true tournament boats like a properly loaded Pro-V, so you’re going to be left in their dust regardless. Because of this, I don’t know that it does much good if you’re trying to be first to a fishing spot.
Likewise, you also probably could get away with towing water skiers or a tube with a 115. There are certainly plenty of 1775 Impacts running around doing just that. I only say “probably” because I haven’t done it myself.
To me, a family fishing boat that can reliably hit 40 mph and keep everyone dry is good enough. Thus, I wasn’t upset that mine had a 115. If I ever had to repower it, I’m not positive I’d bump it to 150. I’ve read you want to consider hydraulic steering at that point, which my boat lacks. Also, why spend more money on something I’ve literally never missed or wanted?
Resale
There are many people who will tell you that maxing out your horsepower will enhance your chances of selling your boat when it’s time to part ways. This is certainly true if the buyer is only interested in a maxed-out boat and motor package, as they won’t look at boats that lack this.
You will attract more buyers and get more money for a used boat with a maxed-out motor, but bear in mind that you have to pay more for this up front.
You also need to consider when you intend to sell the boat. Some pros buy a new fishing boat each year. They would probably want to max out their motor so that they have the best chance of reaching a wide audience and attracting a sale. Other people sell their boat every 10, 15, or even 20 years. At that point, it probably doesn’t matter so much if the motor is the maximum capacity for the boat, as the general condition of it is much more important.
Finally, you have to consider the audience. If you’re thinking about buying a Lund Impact rather than a Pro-V, you are probably a person who appreciates quality, but doesn’t need everything to be the “absolute best.” There are plenty of folks out there who would be just fine buying a used 115 hp motor on these boats.
Problems I’ve Had with My Lund Impact
I really haven’t had many problems with my boat or motor, The few I have had were mostly my fault. This was my first boat and I made a few bonehead mistakes with it such as not tightening my connections enough to the batteries (and even reversing the positive and negative wires once). It’s hard to blame Lund or Mercury for my own independent issues.
I’ve only had a few “true” manufacturer issues that I don’t feel I contributed to. Some that you should be aware of include:
The vinyl floor on the inside of my rod lockers peels away;
I have oodles of mystery screws rolling around each year;
The connectors for one of my cargo nets broke off eventually (year seven).
The boat loads terribly on the trailer.
There’s no way for water to drain out of the seat bases.
Let’s discuss these in further detail.
Vinyl Issues
My boat came with a complete vinyl floor. While this is wonderful in some respects (it makes cleaning it an absolute breeze) it does get extremely hot. I wouldn’t recommend this if you like to fish barefoot, or bring your dogs along. At the very least, you’ll need to bring a towel or two.
The vinyl on my boat was even wrapped in the storage compartments. These get very hot during the day and whatever glue they used in the factory degraded after a few years. As you can see, this causes the vinyl to peel off. I’m sure it would be an easy enough fix, but I haven’t got around to doing it. This is about the worse “defect” that my boat came with, so I can certainly live with it.
Mystery Screws
It seems like every year a few more “mystery screws” pop out. To the extent I can figure out where they came from, I put them back in, but often I’m left scratching my head. This seems to happen with alarming regularity so I’m a little surprised the boat hasn’t fallen apart.
This is a common occurrence with most boats. Driving up and down across the waves is going to jostle some screws loose over the years. Don’t let it alarm you, but it can take a bit of detective work to figure out where the screw fell from so you can put it back in place.
Cargo Net Connectors Broke
If you secure much with the bow cargo nets, you’re putting pressure on their keeper hooks which will eventually back out. It took about 7 years for this to happen but it did all the same so I thought I’d report it. This is not a big issue but is just one of those things that will go.
Difficulty Loading the Trailer
I trail my boat on a 2012 Shoreland’r trailer that I’m convinced doesn’t fit it that well. It is very challenging to get the boat to load correctly on all but the most perfectly straight ramps. I load the thing several times a week, and all the “sweet spots” in the world” won’t help if the ramp is tilted. It’s possible that I’m amplifying this or doing something wrong, but I’ve owned the boat a number of years and you really have to get things perfect or else it will sit dangerously one-sided along the reverse chine.
In fairness, I do launch at some atrocious ramps that are poorly maintained and have giant submerged potholes. Even so, the load guides that came with my trailer were generally worthless until I had my friend make them twice as large as seen below. Now the boat loads much better and even if it is off a bit, it isn’t dangerously so.
Water in the Seat Bases
Even though my boat came with four seats, I usually leave two at home. I’d rather have more deck space. Unfortunately this means that water can collect in the holes for the seat bases, and these holes don’t drain. All the same it’s an easy enough thing to fix. Pick yourself up a few of these seat base plugs and call it a day.
When to Buy a Lund Impact
Buying a boat is a major financial decision to hide from your wife. Joking of course but not really. Boats go for a ton of money these days and only seem to get more expensive each time I look. Even though the Lund Impact 1875 is supposed to be a “mid-range” model for Lund, they can still command prices well above your average car. If this makes you squeamish, consider reading this article that will help you avoid buyer’s remorse.
As stated above, I got a killer deal by buying in the late fall. I’d recommend that you do the same, if you can. This has been a very popular model for Lund over the years, which can mean that on occasion a dealer will have one or two left in stock.
The downside of all this is that you are unlikely to get “exactly” what you want. If you do find one that is still on the lot, it, like mine, probably has an option that many buyers don’t want. In my case, that was the 115 hp motor. This isn’t a problem for me, but if it is for you, you may need to bite the bullet and purchase one during boat show season instead.
Would I Buy an Impact Again? Or Would I Go With a Pro-V?
I often daydream about what boat I’d buy if you all started buying my book in bulk. I guess the major decision would have to be whether or not I’d buy another Lund Impact, or “upgrade” to the Pro-V. I’ve put a lot of thought into which one of these boats would work better for me in the future. You know, “just in case.”
Pro-V Advantages
There’s no denying that the Pro-V is an amazing boat. It is the flagship of Lund’s lineup and designed to be a true tournament winner. From a fish-ability standpoint, it seems hard to beat it. It also has an emergency ladder that stows into its gunnel rather than taking up space on the stern deck. This means that it would be easier to have both a kicker motor and some sort of shallow water anchor system, like a Minnkota Talon.
Some other advantages include:
Top speed. A fully loaded Pro-V with its 300hp motor is going to run considerably faster than an Impact.
Storage. The Pro-V (especially the 1975 and up) has more storage including dry storage than the Impact.
The Pro-V comes with a better livewell system than the Lund Impact.
Lund Impact Advantages
The Lund Impact is a very practical boat and a great one for familes. It costs significantly less than a Pro-V, which is always a plus. This allows you to either upgrade your electronics, or just have the boat paid off that much sooner, which is always a plus.
One thing I definitely think the Lund Impact 1875 has the edge on the Pro-V over is its layout, especially if you’re fishing with kids. The Pro-V has very wide gunnels whereas the Impact’s are narrow. However, on the interior of the gunnel of the Impact is a storage locker that doubles as a seat. It’s a great place for kids to hang out and fish and I think I’d miss it terribly.
Some other advantages of the Lund Impact:
Lighter weight – this means it can be towed by more economical vehicles. On the other hand, it is more likely to blow around in the wind.
The 1875 model allows for three rows of seating at a good price – you can get six seats in and everyone has leg room.
A better “beginner boat” where not every scratch will leave you crying.
The Verdict
You can’t go wrong with either boat, but unless you’re planning on fishing tournaments or never buying another boat again, I think I’d rather have the several thousand dollars savings and stick with the Lund Impact 1875. It has done absolutely everything I could ever ask it for and never let me down, all at an affordable price.
As an update, I’ve recently written a new article where I really go into a detailed comparison between the Lund Impact and Lund Pro-V. You can find that article here.
Well, folks, that’s it for this time. I hope you enjoyed this article and found it useful when considering this boat. As always, if you have any specific questions, please feel free to leave a comment or to email. I’d also like to invite you to join my new Facebook group to be updated on new articles. I’ve thought about how best to reach folks and decided that I hate mailing lists, and Facebook is the way to go. Please consider liking the page so we can keep in touch.
Buying a boat is a major financial decision that can cause you to lose a lot of sleep if you don’t approach the process strategically.
If you’re considering buying a fishing boat for your family, one of the main concerns keeping you up at night is probably how much the boat will cost to purchase and maintain. You might wonder if you should buy new or used, and you’ve probably heard people talk about how boats are money pits, or that you need to be prepared to “Break out another thousand” if you own one.
Family-sized fishing boats don’t have to be that expensive to buy or to maintain. I bought my boat at a great price new, and the only major expenses have been caused by user error.
I bought a new Lund Impact back in 2012. That hardly makes me an expert, and if you saw the dock rash on the side of it, there’d be no way I could fool you, but I am someone not that far removed from going through the boat-buying process and asking all the same questions you’re probably asking yourself right now.
I’ve certainly made some stupid mistakes over the years that have cost me plenty of money, but they’ve also led me to conclude that had I not made them, my boat really wouldn’t have cost that much to own or maintain.
Now, at great personal expense to my ego and in the full light of the internet, I will share some of those stupid mistakes with you, as well as my thought process for the best way to get a good deal on a boat so that you don’t ever have to regret buying one.
Is It the Right Time to Buy a Boat?
Before you read anything else, you need to ask yourself if you’re even ready to buy a boat.
This doesn’t mean “can you pay for this in cash” or “are all of your other debts paid?” but it does mean “can you buy this boat without endangering your family or mortgaging their future?”
As much as I’ll joke about a boat being a life necessity, it is a luxury. Don’t ever let a luxury force you to live paycheck-to-paycheck. If you can’t swing the payments for a full-fledged fishing boat, go check out the classifieds and pick up a rowboat for a few hundred bucks while you save for something bigger that you can buy in cash.
With that being said, don’t be afraid to finance your boat. Time is fleeting and tomorrow is promised to no one. You only have so many days on earth and even fewer with kids young enough to want to hang out with you. If you can afford a boat payment on top of all your other bills and still have money left over to save, go for it.
It makes absolutely no sense to plop your doting toddler in front of a television each summer weekend just so you can drag a mopey teenager on one family vacation fifteen years from now. Buy the boat in time to use it with your family, even if that means you have a monthly payment.
Worrying About New vs. Used Boats is Missing the Point
There are plenty of articles and forum posts out there where someone is asking for the pros and cons of buying a new boat vs. used. While there is a lot of great information to be found, respectfully, much misses the point.
It doesn’t really matter if you buy a used boat or a new one. What matters is if you can quickly sell it if necessary for what (or close to what) you paid for it.
The main reason people say that you shouldn’t buy a new boat is that it will depreciate just like a car as soon as you leave the dealership. This is true, and it is a consideration. If you left the dealership and had to sell the boat immediately, you would probably lose money.
It’s equally possible to lose money on a used boat if you purchase it for more than it is actually worth, and with used boats, it can be very challenging to pinpoint what this number should be.
How Much Is That Used Boat Worth?
As stated above, it is very challenging to understand what a fair price is for a used boat. There are several reasons for this:
The NADA book that is so helpful for cars leaves a lot to be desired for boats. Just go try it and tell me if you can even figure out what it’s asking you for with half its questions.
Rarity needs to be taken into account. Certain desired brands can go for thousands more in regions where they are harder to find.
The time of year makes a big difference. Generally speaking, used boats (any boats, really) cost less in the fall than they do in the spring or summer.
A used boat may have hidden defects and gremlins that don’t show up on the price sheet and you might not catch in time. Thus, it can be hard to take these into consideration and you might find that you spend significantly more on that used boat than you anticipated.
In the same vein, all the electronics, trolling motors, and even the outboard may have been neglected or in need of a major tuneup soon. Most used boats aren’t going to come with a warranty.
You need to factor in that not knowing the exact history of the boat may cost you more money and time in diagnostic charges and attempts than if you bought the boat new.
The bottom line is that it’s just tough to figure out what that used boat is worth, and if you don’t get pretty close, you can just as easily be in over your head.
That’s not to say you can’t find a great deal out there, but you really need to be careful when looking and ready to pounce when you find it as it won’t last for long.
What About Buying a New Boat?
I bought my first boat new, and the next boat I buy will also be new. Yes, there is depreciation to consider, but it doesn’t concern me. I tested a formula of sorts for my first boat and am happy with how it has gone. It worked well once, so I intend to repeat it, and am sharing so you can too:
I purchased an end-of-year holdover. By purchasing a vessel that my dealer couldn’t sell in their busy season, I was able to save thousands. If possible, I would do this again. If I can’t, I’ll at least shop around and try to purchase the boat for as little as possible.
I purchased a Lund, which is a highly desired, but expensive brand. This combines to create a robust demand for them used. Thus, there will be a high demand for my boat if I ever choose to sell it.
Used Lunds are rare in my region. While they are pervasive in the midwest, in New England you just don’t see as many of them. Thus, there is low supply for this boat.
Having an item that is in low supply and high demand means that I will acquire a good price for the boat, so long as I have reasonably well-maintained it.
Another thing that has worked out well for me is that new boat prices have skyrocketed in recent years, which has caused used prices to increase as well. Because of this, I legitimately think that I could sell my boat today, eight model years later, for about 60 – 70% of what I originally paid for it.
If you can get a good initial deal on an item and can bring it to a place where there is high demand and low supply of said item, you can buy that item new with confidence.
Other Benefits to Buying a New Boat
I’m about to paint with a really broad brush, but I see a lot of people do a lot of stupid things with their boats, and as you’ll find out further down, I’ve made some dumb mistakes too.
These don’t all show up on the advertisement when they’re trying to sell the boat used.
There is something to be said for knowing the exact history of your boat so that you can troubleshoot issues and forecast future expenses appropriately. A new boat won’t leave me guessing when a motor started or will start having problems based on how long a prior owner used gas made with ethanol without appropriate fuel treatments.
I don’t want to assume a hull is stable because it’s nice and pretty and waxed when it really took a beating for several years from someone who didn’t know how to drive in large waves.
New boats minimize any concern that at family of mice has made refuge in the boat’s flotation foam for years just because the prior seller vacuumed up the traces before I saw it.
Basically, I want to take as much of the mystery out of future expenses as possible, and that’s hard to do unless you implicitly trust the seller of a used boat (who, let’s be honest, is probably a complete stranger).
Remember, a big part of what you’re paying for with the price of new is a clean history and several years of manufacturer warranty. To me, those are well worth the depreciation hit.
What Brand of Boat Should I Buy?
This depends on if you’re ever going to sell it, but if you are, then buy something that you think someone will want to buy from you at a later point in time.
Even if you can’t get the perfect “high demand, low supply” item I discussed earlier, you should at least buy a brand of boat that others want, so that you have a chance of selling later.
I’m not going to knock any brands on this site or this post, but what I will tell you is that it would be well worth your time to look at some online sales posts and dealer inventories of used boats and pay attention to what boats sell instantly, and what boats are there forever. While this might be a reflection on price, you’ll probably also notice that certain brands and models sell much better than others.
That’s the brand you want to own.
Resale value and liquidity (the ease of selling quickly) are huge deals. They are the difference between losing sleep over how much you lost on your boat purchase or simply shrugging your shoulders and considering your ownership costs a nominal “rental fee” should you ever need to sell it later.
How to Get a Good Deal on a Boat
My process for getting a good deal on a boat is pretty simple, with some of the steps discussed above. When I purchase a new boat, I’ll be approaching the purchase with the following strategy:
I’ll research the boat to know exactly what boat I want;
I will know exactly how most people order this type of boat;
I’ll will wait until I find a late-season or other heavily discounted model;
If necessary, I will be prepared to say no.
Know Exactly What Boat You Want Before You Buy It
Do your research long before you show up at a dealership. These days it is very easy to find substantial information on just about every fishing boat out there. Some dealers make YouTube videos, and many forums have threads devoted to every model under the sun. Know as much about the boat you’re going to purchase (as well as the pros and cons of its competitor) before you ever show up.
Doing this research will allow you to remain pragmatic when the salesman tries their tricks. You really want to know as much or more about the class of boats as they do. This will allow you to point out how you’re also looking at other brands because they have a larger casting deck, or come with different motor brands, etc.
You never want the salesman to think you’re crazy about what you’re trying to buy, and trust me, if you research long enough – you won’t be. Every boat has its plus and minuses and you just need to try and pick out one that will work well for your family.
Know Exactly How Most People Rig the Boat
You should know what the popular options are on a boat. In fact, if you’re looking at a late-season holdover, chances are that the dealer did not rig it right with these popular options. That doesn’t mean it’s a bad deal by any means, but it does give you negotiating power if you recognize it.
My boat is a classic example. It is a 2012 Lund Impact 1875 Sport rigged with a 115 hp Mercury 4-stroke engine. It is rated for 150 hp. Most people out there want to max out their engine. It wasn’t important to me for various reasons, but it was importantto enough other people that the boat sat there until I showed up in late September.
The same dealer I bought my boat from had a 2018 Lund Pro-V 1975 sitting in their lot for a year and a half. This is a boat that you do not see in this region, and one that is absolutely coveted. This thing sat on their website forever before someone got a smoking deal.
Why? Well, probably because they rigged it with a 24-volt trolling motor and refused to swap it out for the 36-volt that most people want on that boat. Not maxing out the outboard probably didn’t help them, either.
Knowing what rigging options are in demand will help you negotiate a better deal with your dealer.
Wait for a Good Deal at the End of the Year or a Boat Show
Dealers won’t negotiate anywhere near as much in spring as they do in the fall or winter when business is slower. If you want to get the best price on a new boat your best bet is to buy it during the off season and stare at it longingly in your garage for a few months. Sad but true!
Consider Competitor Options
While you might have your heart set on a certain brand of boat, their competitors may have a very good option you should consider. Case in point, I’m a Lund guy, but when I sat down to write an objective article about Lund vs. Alumacraft and who makes the better boat, I reached the conclusion that Alumacraft has some great boats of their own! Don’t discount the possibility that another, less expensive brand might give you everything that you want and more.
Behold the Power of “No”
Your number one tool in any negotiation is the word, “No.”
Not enough people use this and it is a shame. It can be all you need to do to have the dealer call you the next day or even chase after you in the parking lot.
You want to be careful about employing this. You wouldn’t want to say this over something that is truly scarce and in demand, because then the dealer will simply shrug and wait for the next guy. But if you have a situation where you’re the only one who has shown interest in a while, and you’re very close to reaching a deal, this little word can seal it.
Saying “No” is also important when things just aren’t lining up. You don’t need this boat. There are others. If it’s not working out, sometimes that’s for a reason and you just need to put a little faith in a higher power that things will balance out later.
What Are the Total Costs of Owning a Fishing Boat?
Even if you find a great deal, a major reason you (or your spouse) might resist pulling the trigger is the anticipated boat ownership cost. Plenty of people say that their boat is a money pit, or that the word “boat” is really an acronym for Break Out Another Thousand, but the expenses of a boat aren’t nearly as bad as some people claim. Here are the costs I pay for my boat each year:
The Guaranteed Costs of Boat Ownership
The initial cost: you’ll pay anywhere from $100 – $100,000 for a freshwater fishing boat for your family. This could be a one-time payment or a recurring cost over time depending on if you finance.
Insurance: You will need to insure your boat to protect yourself from liability and to protect your investment from damage. Thankfully, the costs of insuring a recreational fishing boat aren’t bad at all. You’re talking at most a few hundred bucks a year.
Taxes: Some states or towns charge taxes for boats or their trailers. I guess I’m “lucky” in that my town only charges me for the latter. It’s not a big charge at all–about $20 the last time I checked–but this is going to depend on the size of the trailer and your location.
Gasoline: If your boat has a motor, you will have to pay for fuel. You’re probably going to want to find non-ethanol fuel which is more expensive, but not prohibitively so. This price will obviously vary wildly depending on how often you go boating.
Yearly Winterization: If you live in the northern states, you’ll probably winterize your boat each year so it is ready to go for spring. This is a service that can run anywhere from $200-$500 for your average freshwater fishing boat, abut is also one that you can complete yourself for much less money with the help of a good internet search.
As long as you are parking this at your own home and using a trailer to bring it to the launch each trip, these are about all the costs that you are guaranteed to have year to year. If you needed or wanted to purchase marina docking, you would have that expense as well.
Assuming you own a decently-sized fishing boat that is paid off, you’re probably looking at about $200-$400 for insurance, maybe $20-$100 for taxes, $200-$500 for winterization (if you live somewhere cold), and whatever gasoline you use each year (wild guess of $100 – $1,000. If you fish larger lakes, it will be more. If you’re in an electric only pond, it will obviously be less).
All in, once your boat is paid off, you’re facing a guaranteed cost of roughly $520 – $2,000 each year, or about $44 – $167 each month. You’re probably paying more for cable channels you never watch (and will watch even less once your family owns a boat).
Long-Term Boat Maintenance Costs
You’re also going to want to project for long-term maintenance costs and apply some risk management skills to make sure you’re prepared to pay these. Don’t worry, there aren’t too many:
Batteries: You can reasonably expect to need to replace your marine batteries every 3-4 years, though they’ll occasionally last longer;
Trolling Motor: If you do a lot of fishing, you’re probably on your trolling motor all the time. These can be a little hit or miss when it comes to longevity. Some people report having them last for decades while others have to replace them far more often. It’s really going to come down to how much you use it and how well you maintain it.
Outboard Motor: If you take care of your outboard, it really shouldn’t “break” but taking care of it includes the same 1, 3, 5, etc. year maintenance schedules that you’re used to on a car, and these cost money. If you are mechanically inclined and can handle this yourself, you’re looking at parts plus elbow grease. If not, expect to pay $300-$600 for the service every few years.
Setting aside money now or even better making short-term investments to cover the above anticipated future costs will take some of the pain out of them. If you know you need $600 in three years, consider what kind of investments can you make so that this is available.
“Fun” Surprise Boating Expenses
I’ve talked about the guaranteed yearly and long-term expenses out there, but that’s not where boats get the “Break Out Another Thousand” moniker. That nickname is chiefly a result of the one-off “surprise” expenses that can happen.
I’ve certainly had a few of these over the years, but most of them were caused by my own mistakes, lack of awareness, or “learning opportunities.” As much as they embarrass me, I’ll share them in the hopes that you don’t repeat them:
One year, when I replaced the batteries, I managed to reverse the connections and started a small fire that melted much of my wiring. The wiring had to be pulled out and redone;
When I would reconnect the batteries the first few springs, I wouldn’t tighten the connections enough, which led to a poor-starting motor and diagnostic charges as well as other issues. I thought I had bought a lemon until my friend took a five-second look and informed me I was just an idiot (and apparently so were the people at my marina as they never found this–the boat works flawlessly now);
Another year, I parked my boat on a slight hill with the bow (front) lower than the stern (back). I relied on my travel cover and didn’t tarp the boat well enough. Water collected in the bilge and couldn’t escape because of the angle. This completely submerged the on-board charger for several weeks before I noticed. It died shortly thereafter;
That same year, most of my gear got mold on it due to the same issue. Luckily, I was able to clean most of it though I did have to toss some stuff.
I once left a roll of toilet paper in the boat’s glove box over a winter and came back to a vessel that absolutely reeked of mouse urine. It took a lot of effort and many cleaning products to get rid of the smell.
I once forgot to tilt the motor up before taking it out of my garage. Luckily, the hill outside was soft and the skeg just tore up some grass. Had the hill been cement, I might have had to replace the lower unit.
I was once in a hurry to launch and forgot to put the plug in. This didn’t actually cost me anything as I realized it quickly enough, but it could cost you if you don’t.
As you can see, I’ve learned a few things the hard way. I would imagine that most of the time someone forks over another $1,000 it is probably a result of some silly mistake they’ve made rather than a result of a boat being a money pit.
Some examples of costly repairs that I’ve seen others have to make include:
Transom replacement either due to age of boat, improper care, or manufacturer defect;
Collision repairs with fixed objects underneath the water;
Popped rivets or burst welds from driving too aggressively in high seas;
Soggy floors needing replacement, usually due to not storing the boat properly;
Electrical or mechanical issues caused by rodents chewing through wires and making a home in the vessel;
Corrosion caused by use in saltwater without proper flushing after each trip;
Replacement of the motor’s lower unit due to failing to raise it properly while retrieving boat at a launch;
Total loss of the boat due to attempting to back down a ramp while it was not secured on a roller trailer;
The list goes on and on, but the point is that almost all of these are caused by either user error or a lack of preventative maintenance. If you apply a bit more common sense than I had in my youth to your boat ownership, you could very well escape most of these bills.
The Biggest Unexpected Boat Cost of All – Tow Vehicles
You definitely want to do you research to see if your tow vehicle can handle the weight of your fishing boat and trailer. This isn’t always the easiest information to find, as not all manufacturers are particularly forthcoming with how much their boats weigh. I wrote a guide to fishing boat weights that may help you, but you should also run an internet search and do your best to determine if your truck or SUV can tow the prospective boat safely. Two boats that look very similar can have extremely different weight.
Final Thoughts
I couldn’t imagine life without my boat. It has been a key source of joy for my family and many of the memories I’ll cherish throughout life were made on it.
I don’t regret purchasing my boat, but then I tried to be smart about how I bought it. I do regret some of the mistakes I made, but learning is unavoidable and at least I know I won’t make them in the future.
Hopefully, this article will help you buy a boat for a price that makes sense, and let you learn from my mistakes so you don’t always have to “break out another thousand.”
Never be afraid to live your life – buy that boat with confidence!
If you feel like exploring this issue further, consider purchasing my book, Fishing with Kids: A Parent’s Guide. It has an entire chapter on the pros and cons of various types of boats, as well as a chapter on how to best use and control your boat once you own it.