I’ve always been fascinated by the fish mounted on the wall at our camp. Dad and Uncle Steve sarcastically named the room “The Aquarium,” and as a child I would spend hours staring at the impressive displays of fish taxidermy they had acquired. I remember studying every inch of the fish mounts, and feeling every tooth of the northern pike. Immersing me for hours, these taxidermy displays were very much my version of the iPad.
This inevitably led me to want some trophies too, and I spent a lot of time pestering Dad about when I could get a fish skin mount of my own. This led to some fish going up on that wall that really had no business being there, as a “trophy” to a six-year-old looks mighty small 30 years later.
All the same, it is pretty neat to see the sorts of fish I was pulling in as I was starting out fishing. They’re almost like peewee hockey trophies at this point. Not really that special, but an important reminder of a right of passage, so I keep them up. Even so, if I had it all to do over again (and I might with my children), I wouldn’t get a real fish skin mounted. I’d avoid taxidermy and buy a fiberglass replica fish mount instead. They last longer, are easier to clean, and enable a fish that beat all the past odds to beat one more.
With that said, I’m not here to judge anyone. Let’s discuss how to prepare a fish for the wall, regardless of if you choose taxidermy or a replica fish mount. We’ll compare costs as well as the pros and cons of each so you can make the best decision for your trophy.
What Is Fish Taxidermy?
Also referred to as mounting or stuffing fish, fish taxidermy is the act of preserving parts of a real fish as a display or trophy to last a lifetime. You know those fish that are hanging on the wall at your local tackle shop? That’s a fish mount. If they’re older, they’re probably skin mounts. Nowadays, replica fiberglass fish mounts are becoming more popular as they are comparably priced, tend to be more vibrant, will last longer, and don’t require you to kill that trophy!
How is Fish Taxidermy Done?
Contrary to popular belief, fish mounts are only “somewhat” made from real fish. Yes, these fish mounts include the fish’s real teeth, head, fins, and skin, but these are all stretched over a foam mold that is cut to size. After placement, the skin is brushed with formaldehyde while certain areas of the head have formaldehyde injections. Some taxidermists, like Nature’s Design Taxidermy, use ethers made from ethanol or glycol, and inject it across the entire skin as well as the head before rubbing the skin down with Borax.
All of the fish we have on our wall have a shiny gloss to them. Some taxidermists use a clear coat to protect their work for longer, especially if they had to do any touch up painting. Despite this, I can attest that these fish have lost some of their luster over the years.
How to Preserve a Fish for Taxidermy
If you intend to have your trophy fish skin mounted, there are several steps you need to quickly take to ensure that your trophy is properly preserved, frozen, and stored for mounting. If you miss one of these steps it could affect the quality of the skin mount despite the taxidermist’s best efforts.
Step 1: Land Your Fish Without Damaging It
Landing nets can severely damage a fish’s fins, especially if they are made of nylon rather than rubber. Unless you want to bring your fish to the taxidermy shop all banged up, try to land them safely. Ideally, you’d land a fish without a net, though this could be nerve-wracking with a trophy on the line. If you’re going to use a net, make sure you know the proper way to net and land your trophy fish.
Step 2: Photograph the Fish Quickly and Take Good Measurements to Prep it for Mounting
A fish’s color changes much more rapidly than you might think. If you don’t believe me, take a good photograph of a fish you catch sometime and then put it in your livewell for a bit. You might be surprised by the results. Make sure that you quickly photograph a fish so you can have a good representation of what it looked like “fresh caught.” This should be done regardless of if you are having the fish skin mounted or if you will have a replica fiberglass fish mount made. Any taxidermy shop is going to need good photos so they can touch up the real fish appropriately, or airbrush a cast.
Step 3: Store the Fish in the Livewell If Possible, but Cool Water If Not
Because fish start to deteriorate quickly after death, try to keep the fish alive as long as possible prior to bringing them in for taxidermy and mounting. Ideally this would be in a well regulated livewell.
Step 4: Kill the Fish Without Damaging It
If you’re going to kill your fish for a skin mount, at least do so humanely and efficiently so it doesn’t suffer any longer than necessary. You’ll need to do this in a way that doesn’t damage the scales or gills before your fish reaches the taxidermy shop. I’d suggest giving it a good thwap on the head with a blunt object. This is unlikely to damage the scales and will put it out of its suffering.
Step 5: Sprinkle Powdered Borax or a Color Preservative on the Skin
I remember bringing one of my fish over to George Daniels’ bait and tackle shop over in Port Henry for mounting. I was very young at the time but I distinctly remember George patting the fish down with a white powder. This was strange to me and I wasn’t sure why he was doing this to my beautiful fish. As it turns out, it was to help preserve its color.
Be liberal with the application of borax before freezing your fish. Try to coat both the inside and outside of the fish. Just make sure that the borax is the fine grain, non-bleaching type or you’ll have all sorts of issues you don’t want!
Step 6: Wrap the Fish Up in a Wet Towel
Once you’ve applied borax or a color preserver, it’s time to protect the fish and prepare it for shipment to the taxidermist. Take a soft towel that your wife won’t miss and wet it. Wrap the fish up in the wet towel. Be gentle with the fins so they aren’t damaged. Your goal with the towel is to provide a sturdy layer of protection during transport to the taxidermist.
Step 7: Place the Wrapped Fish in a Plastic Bag
Your next step is to take your fish, towel and all, and warp it in a plastic bag. Make sure you squeeze all the air out of the bag. Once wrapped, tape it up so the plastic won’t unravel. It’s not the worst idea attach a label to this bag with your information, including fishing license number and the date the fish was caught. If a conservation officer checks in on the fish at the taxidermy shop, this information will make for a smooth process (assuming you did everything on the up and up)!
Step 8: Freeze the Fish
You’ll want to freeze your fish to preserve it for taxidermy. Put it in a freezer where it will fit without needing to be bent. Take care in where you store the fish – stay away from areas in the freezer that normally frost over. You want to do your best to avoid freezer burn, which can damage the scales or ruin the color.
Step 9: Bring the Fish to the Taxidermist and Wait Patiently
Most taxidermists take anywhere from 8 – 14 weeks or longer to mount a fish. Depending on how unique and artistic of a job you’ve commissioned, some taxidermists can take as long as a few years. Consider that the actual act of taxidermy takes several weeks to properly cure and paint everything. Then you need to factor in the fact that if the shop is any good, they likely have other customers besides you and may be facing a considerable backlog.
While you could shop around and find a shop that will turn yours around quicker, that might not always be the best idea. Make sure you check references and ask for examples of their work to make sure that you’ll be happy with the result. After all, it’ll be up on your wall for years.
How Are Fish Replica Mounts Made?
If you want to practice catch and release while still mounting your trophy fish, a fiberglass replica is the way to go. Replica fish start off as molds that were made from real fish in various sizes to match the length and girth common to trophies. These molds are then used to produce fish casts, or blanks, that taxidermy shops can buy and paint. Think of casts almost like a plastic model airplane that you might build. They’re shipped to a taxidermist in a box and, as with models, have rough edges or flash that needs to be removed, and little seams or creases that need to be restored or fixed before details can be added and the cast can be airbrushed to life-like quality.
Because these casts are mass-produced, only one trophy fish of any given size needs to be killed to enable multiple anglers to purchase replicas to match their catch. Small little details like scarring or genetic variations can be accounted for and replicated by a skilled taxidermist the same way scale models come out so life-like in the hands of an expert. If you work with a true master, you’ll be amazed at how close they get it.
How to Measure a Fish for Replica Mount
You will need length and girth measurements of your fish to make an accurate fiberglass replica mount. The length is easy enough – this is the length from the tip of the (closed) snout to the tip of the tail. Girth is just as simple. It is the measurement around the widest part of the fish.
If you have a digital scale handy, you should also also weigh the fish before you let it go. While the fiberglass taxidermy replica will of course have the correct measurements, most freshwater trophies are judged by their weight. If you don’t have a scale, you can estimate it using the measurements you took using a bass weight calculator.
How to Photograph a Fish for a Replica Mount
Good photographs are going to make all the difference for any fish mount, replica or skin. These will allow your taxidermy shop to accurately portray your fish and bring it to life. Make sure that you take photographs of both sides of the fish from several angles. Try and ensure the lighting is proper. Have the sun in front of you – never behind you.
You will get better photos earlier or later in the day than at noon as you won’t have to contend with as many shadows, however remember that the purpose of this photograph is to give the taxidermist something to work with on your fish mount. Just try and keep shadows off the fish even if this means they are more pronounced on you.
How Much Does It Cost to Mount a Fish or Build a Replica?
Different taxidermists have different prices for stuffing fish and creating skin mounts, as well as creating fish replicas. It is, however, industry standard to charge by the inch. After doing a little research I’ve found that this can be anywhere from $12 to over $20 per inch. Some taxidermists charge less per inch for larger fish while others take the opposite approach. You’re really going to have to call around and ask many questions. Also, be aware that most places have a minimum cost (usually around $200).
With a range like this, it’s fair to say that you could assume a skin-mounted largemouth bass trophy would run you somewhere from $300 – $500, or possibly more if you go to a particularly renowned taxidermist.
Fiberglass mounts can be about the same cost or a bit higher, at least if you want it to actually look like the fish you caught. Some companies will sell you a fiberglass mount that is the same size of your trophy, but which comes in a standard color. Most, however, will also offer to paint your replica to look just like the fish you caught if you send them good photos. If you go this route, you’ll pay for it.
Other Factors That Affect Price
The cost of skin mounting a fish or commissioning a fiberglass replica will fluctuate further when other additions are considered. While some taxidermists will offer a true skin mount where the fish’s color is what it is, others will airbrush or paint it for a better look. Replica fish are all going to be painted by someone, and the better the painter, the higher the cost.
Further, some taxidermists will mount your fish in a “live action” display. Perhaps the best examples of this come from the award-winning artists at VanMar Taxidermy. If you visit their website, you’ll see they offer replica fish mounts in incredible “live action” displays. They can turn your fish into the world’s coolest coffee table for your den, or centerpiece for your mantel. This will add to the cost considerably, but you’ll emerge with something breathtaking and, if I may be so bold, priceless.
How To Clean a Mounted Fish?
Regardless of if you go the taxidermy route and get a skin mount of your trophy fish, or if you opt for a replica, the thing is going to get dirty and old hanging on your wall. Here are a few tips to keep your mounted fish looking great for years to come.
- Clean the dust from it from time to time with either a dedicated duster, or a damp soft rag. Use rags that are going to be gentle, like the type of washcloths you used when your kids were little.
- When wiping, always go in the direction of the scales. If you go the opposite direction, you could damage them.
- Take special care around the fins as these are the most delicate areas of any mount. Take your time so you don’t damage them.
- Remember that anything that would damage a priceless painting is going to damage your fish mount. Avoid hanging it in direct sunlight to prevent it from fading over time. Also, if you’re one of the people who still smokes (either the real thing, or those stupid e-cigarette flash drive contraptions), consider smoking outside so you don’t ruin your trophy!
Why You Should Get a Replica Mount Instead of Stuffing a Fish
While this is definitely a judgement-free website, it’s also my little soap box and I’d be remis if I didn’t take at least some opportunity to convince you to use a replica fish mount for your taxidermy needs instead of a skin mount. There are several outstanding reasons to choose a fiberglass replica fish vs. a traditional skin mount:
Replica Fish Mounts Look Better Than Skin Mounts
While this is subjective, and both types of taxidermy fish can be works of art, the replicas just look nicer these days. They’re basically the equivalent of buying a custom airbrushed crankbait vs. the regular ones you can buy in the store. If you don’t believe me, go walk into any tackle shop that has skin mounts and then compare them against a fiberglass one that you see hanging at Cabelas. They don’t compare.
They are Comparably Priced
The cost of having a replica made of your trophy bass is not that much different than a skin mount in most places. In fact, the places I’ve checked usually featured a surcharge of only $2-$3/inch for the replicas. That’s not bad at all when you consider all the other benefits. Anything in this price range is what I’d call comparable and when you consider how much more time you’ll get out of the replica fish than the traditional skin taxidermy, it’s a no brainer.
Replica Fish Mounts Last Longer Than Traditional Fish Taxidermy
Ol’ George had quite a few skin mounts at his tackle shop, some of which were ancient by the time I laid eyes on them. Let me tell you, it was pretty obvious which ones had been around for some time. Even at our house, we had one particular walleye that was caught some time ago. It is in worse condition than the other fish. Perhaps a trained taxidermist could look at it and tell me, “well, that was poor technique,” but I will say that fish never looked as good as the replicas I’ve seen, and it only seems to get worse each year.
You Don’t Have to Kill the Trophy Fish to Have it Mounted
The most important reason to consider a replica fish mount rather than “real” fish taxidermy is that you don’t have to kill the fish. Look, this isn’t some environmentalist speech, it’s simple math. In 2020, Bassmaster produced an article called The Mathematics of Trophy Largemouth Bass Management. It is an exceptionally important article for every angler to read. In it, they calculated that only 10 of 100,000 largemouth bass fingerlings spawned in any given year will reach trophy size.
First, they have to get past predation year after year to grow (no small task). Even if they manage that, there’s no guarantee that the survivors will be genetically predisposed to grow that large. Just look around you. People come in all shapes and sizes. So do largemouth bass. Not every bass “has it in them” to grow to be a true trophy. It’s critical that the ones who do should be allowed to remain in the lake to breed progeny who will share this desirable trait!
Point in fact, when you take a trophy largemouth bass and have it stuffed, you’re basically closing a chapter on one of the more illustrious odd-beaters in your lake, as well as its entire line. I don’t know about you, but that seems like a fantastic reason to take a couple of photos and measurements, cough up a few more bucks per inch for a replica fish mount, and return your trophy to the depths.
Thanks for reading,
John Paxton
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