If you’ve ever fished with braid without any kind of backing, it probably didn’t take too long before you started having trouble. Braid is quite slick and without backing it tends to slip on a reel which can cause it to cut deeply into itself. On a spinning reel, this is a pain and usually results in needing to cut off your spool and start over. But what about baitcasters? Can you use braid on a baitcaster with no backing? Well, I certainly wouldn’t recommend it.
Using some sort of backing for your braided line, even on a baitcaster reel, is recommended. For one, this will prevent braid from slipping and cutting into itself. Even if that wasn’t an issue, the backing itself (usually monofilament) is going to tend to be less expensive than braid. This cuts down your costs, allowing you to get more reels out of your spool of braid. All you need to do in exchange is tie one knot, which makes this a great exchange in my book.
Why Your Braid Needs Backing
Braided fishing line has many wonderful qualities but it does have two vices: it can slip easily and it is expensive. These are two great reasons to use backing, as it addresses each of them.
Braid Will Slip Without Backing
The slippage is caused by the slick braid sliding around on the spool. Unless you use some sort of backing, the braid can’t cut into the metal at all. What ends up happening is it slides around from the moment you start spooling it. This caused tangles on spinning gear and makes baitcasters prone to backlash. Obviously, this is a problem.
While some spinning reels (such as the Pflueger President) are now designed with little rubber strips on them to give braid something to cut into, your favorite baitcaster probably doesn’t have this feature. This means you’re going to need to use some sort of dedicated backing.
Braid is EXPENSIVE!
While you’ll always want to check Amazon for the best prices, what you’re going to find is that braided fishing line is considerably more expensive than monofilament. It takes way more money to fill up a spool with braid, and for what benefit? You’re going to want to add more line to your spool once it starts getting too low and gives you casting trouble. There is absolutely no sense whatsoever in spooling your reel with “the good stuff” all the way down to the spool. This is even more apparent when we’re talking about a line that slips as much as braid!
What Backing Line for Braid on a Baitcaster?
Your best bet for backing your braid is going to be a layer monofilament. It really doesn’t matter what kind–you can just use whatever you have lying around. Heavier monofilament will get the job done with less line than lighter test, but there’s no need to make a special trip to the store. Further, you can use old monofilament for this, at least if you’re going to have enough braid on your rod that you’re confident you’ll never get to the backing. I’m a bit paranoid, so I do like to use “fresh” line for everything, but really, if a fish pulls all the way to my backing, I’m in trouble.
This baitcaster is spooled with braid backed by monofilament.
Why Monofilament Line is the Best Backing for Braid
Monofilament is the best line to use as backing for braid for two reasons. One, it’s probably already in your tackle box, and two, it’s cheaply available if it isn’t.
You Already Have It
There’s an extremely good chance that you already have plenty of monofilament fishing line lying around that you can use as backing for your braid on a baitcaster. It doesn’t matter if it is old, or what type it is. All it’s doing is filling a spool and giving the braid something to bite into. Go to town with it.
Monofilament is Inexpensive
Monofilament is, by far, the least expensive of the three main types of fishing line you can buy. This makes it far and away the best backing for braid on a baitcaster if your intention is to try and save money by using it. Again, you can use pretty much anything you can find, no matter how old it is. The only time this would be a problem is if you get a fish that pulls enough drag to expose it. This is pretty darned unlikely if you’re using braid, as one of its benefits is you can horse fish in. All the same, know your target and keep this in consideration.
How Much Backing Do You Need for Braid on a Baitcaster?
You don’t need too much backing at all, just enough to cover the spool. After all, you’re just trying to give the braid something to bite into rather than the slick metal reel spool. I like to get the full benefit of backing which means also saving on braid, so I tend to fill mine up a bit. I want to have enough braid on that I can cover maybe two or three cast lengths just in case I run into a large fish that pulls drag.
Can You Use Electrical Tape as Backing for Braid?
While researching this article I found a handy one by the guys over at Castaic Fishing that claims you can use electrical tape as backing for braid, sort of. See, they aren’t actually using it as backing. What they’re doing is taping down the initial loop that one makes with braid to the spool. The theory is if you do this, you’re preventing the braid from slipping, thus removing the need for monofilament backing.
While you can read the article here, I’d point out that this probably isn’t as helpful as it might seem. Sure, it might prevent your line from slipping, and that’s good. But now you have all that extra spool you need to fill with expensive braid! One of the biggest benefits to backing your baitcaster with monofilament is that you cut down on the amount of braid you need on a spool. If you use electrical tape instead of monofilament as backing for braid, you lose this benefit.
While I wouldn’t recommend using electrical tape as a backing for braid, I suppose it’s good to know that if you’re off on some fishing trip and it’s all you have, it’ll do the trick.
Can You Use Fluorocarbon as Backing for Braid?
While most folks will use monofilament to back their braid on a baitcaster, there’s nothing wrong with using fluorocarbon. It too will accomplish the goal of preventing your braid from slipping on the spool. However, fluorocarbon (or at least the good stuff, like this Seaguar InvizX) tends to be much more expensive than monofilament. This surrenders the advantage of using less expensive line as backing to cut back on costs. Rather, you’re basically doubling them. If it’s all you have, it will do the trick, but I’d stick to the monofilament if it’s an option.
Conclusions: Use Backing to Save Trouble
In conclusion, I’d make the argument that you should always use backing with braid on your baitcaster. It will save you trouble and line in the long run and helps reduce your costs. While you could get tricky and use some electrical tape in a jam, that’s not going to save you much money so I wouldn’t recommend it as normal operating procedure.
I hope this article was helpful to you. Feel free to leave a comment or drop me an email with any questions.
Thanks,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
My son started using a baitcaster this summer, and while rigging it up for him, I found myself asking, “What is the best fishing line for a baitcaster?” I quickly came to the conclusion that it has to be braided fishing line. I’d argue that braid is the best fishing line for a baitcaster because it reduces a lot of the learning curve that baitcasters come with, while maximizing all the advantages of a baitcast reel.
This might surprise you a little bit as I typically don’t recommend braid when fishing with kids just for safety reasons (it can cut them), but by the time someone is old enough to cast a baitcaster, they’re old enough to handle braided fishing line. In my opinion, braided line in 20-30lb test is about the best fishing line for a baitcaster money can buy, regardless of your age or skill level.
Why Braid is the Best Fishing Line for a Baitcaster
I’d argue braid is the best line for a baitcaster because it’s the type of line that pairs well with the techniques baitcasters use in the first place. Further, it is generally easier to use because it has less memory which translates to being easier to cast. Given that baitcasters have a large learning curve, anything that you can use to help you get over that is going to be a plus. Braid takes away many of the headaches that are common to using baitcasters, especially if you’re new to it.
Braid is the bests fishing line for a baitcaster if you ask me.
Better Line for What You’re Using a Baitcaster For in the First Place
If you’re using a baitcasting reel, chances are you’re using it for techniques that braid is well suited for. Baitcasters really are the workhorses of fishing reels. While spinning reels are preferred for more finesse movements with smaller lures and lines, a baitcaster is for hauling big bass out of heavy cover. Frogs, spinnerbaits, jigs, plastic worms and creatures all are better utilized with a baitcaster, and braided line is usually the fishing line of choice for these techniques.
Basically, any lure that relies on one or two large, thick hooks is going to do very well with a braid. These hooks generally require a solid hook set, and braid’s low tension is going to be the best fishing line for that. These lures also tend to attract very large fish, and having a strong fishing line is going to help in that situation too.
Accordingly, it just makes sense to load up braided fishing line on your baitcaster reels. If you happen to be fishing clear water or near toothy critters or other things likely to slice your line, you can simply tie on a fluorocarbon leader. In fact, I have a whole article about when you should use a leader with braided line that you might check out.
Less Memory = Less Backlashes
Backlashes are the bane of any angler using a baitcaster. They’re caused by the spool running faster than the line that is leaving the reel. Usually, this happens because someone forgets to thumb their lure as it heads towards, and connects with, the water. However, a little coil in the line due to memory can also cause this if it results in the line getting hung up after it leaves the spool. A prime reason braided fishing line is the best stuff you can use on a baitcaster is it has no memory and thus avoids this issue.
Better Cast Control
The lower memory of braid also allows for better cast control, especially when using a baitcaster. The same coiling or memory that can lead to backlashes also leads to shorter casts with less accuracy. This is because the line will leave the reel and through the guides much easier if it is limp and straight rather than coiled into a mess.
A smaller diameter also means less friction to contend with as there is less surface area to impact the line. When coupled with the smaller line guides on a baitcasting rod, you’ll find that braid is a very easy line to cast your lures where and how wanted. This is important because one of the main ways to fish a baitcaster, the pitch and flip technique, works very well with braid.
Less Headaches in General
Braid is the best fishing line for baitcasters simply because it reduces the headaches common with the reels. Braid is a strong line that holds up well to the types of lures you want to throw while minimizing backlashes and maximizing accuracy. So long as you use a pound test appropriate for the reel, you’ll avoid situations where it digs in, loops, or causes issues. If you’re new to using a baitcaster, braid is definitely the line to try. The only caveat I’d put on that is to use the tape trick so you don’t cut off more braid than necessary while learning.
Some Watch Outs when Using Braided Fishing Line on a Baitcaster
While I maintain that, in general, braid is the best fishing line for a baitcaster, there can be too much of a good thing. For example, you might look at the relatively lower diameter of braid compared to monofilament and fluorocarbon and be tempted to string up a very small pound test on your baitcaster. I’d argue that’s a mistake. While I’m sure some of you do it just fine, I think using too thin of a fishing line on a baitcaster is really asking for problems. For example, it will cut into the spool much easier than thicker line and create a greater chance of backlashes.
For this reason, I really prefer sticking with 20lb – 30lb test braided fishing line when using a baitcaster. I think the 30lb is the perfect sweet spot where I feel like I can throw just about anything, from a spinnerbait to a frog, and while it might not be “perfect” it will probably get the job done.
There’s an absolutely outstanding article over at Mel’s Place that breaks down the exact diameter of pretty much any fishing line you’d ever want. You can see just how much smaller braided fishing line is in diameter compared to monofilament and fluorocarbon. It shows that my favorite braided fishing line, Berkley PowerPro Braided Spectra Line has a .28mm diameter in 30lb test. That’s almost half as thin as Berkley Trilene Big Game nylon monofilament in 30lb test which has a .55mm diameter. More to the point, it’s even thinner than Berkley Big Game in 10 pound test which means a line three times as strong is also thinner!
Accordingly, there is absolutely no reason to use a very small pound test braided line on your baitcaster. You’ll just be asking for trouble without reaping any benefit.
What About Mono or Fluorocarbon?
There are plenty of people who use monofilament and fluorocarbon for baitcasters, but unless you have a specific application for them, they aren’t the best fishing line for the job.
So what are those applications exactly? Mainly when fishing topwater lures or lures with tiny treble hooks. Braid isn’t the best fishing line for either of those applications, baitcaster or not. This is because monofilament floats, which is really what you want with a topwater lure, and fluorocarbon tends to sink, which is great for crankbaits and such. Further, both have considerably more stretch than braided fishing line and this helps when using a treble hook as you don’t want to pull too hard or you might pull the hook right out of a fish’s mouth.
My Favorite Braided Fishing LIne for Baitcasters
One thing I pride myself with at FishingFather is that I tend to recommend the same stuff for years. Why? Simply put, because it works. I think there’s too much marketing in fishing and that a lot of the game is to get you to buy products you don’t necessarily need.
To that end, while there may be “better” braided fishing line out there, but I wouldn’t know, because I’ve been using Berkley PowerPro Spectra for years now. It does everything I need for a reasonable price. It holds up year after year and I only swap it out when I run low on the spool due to retying. It’s strong, it’s a good color (green) for the waters I fish, it casts very well and is manageable. I’ve been a big fan and until a super compelling reason comes along to abandon it, it’s my ride or die. You can pick some up at Amazon today. Note that I prefer the Spectra line over the Super Slick. I suppose you could get a bit of extra casting length with Super Slick, but I found it less manageable and more likely to fray.
All Things Considered, Braid is the Best Fishing Line for Baitcasters
Unless you have a very specific need for a different type of fishing line, braid is the best for baitcasters. You’re probably going to want it for the techniques you’d use a baitcaster for in the first place. Further, it has less memory which will cause less pesky backlashes, and its small diameter allows for enhanced precision when casting with a baitcaster. For these reasons, it’s what you should reach for first.
If you found this article helpful, here are a few others regarding braided fishing line you might enjoy.
Fishing is one of those sports where we tend to spend a ton on our gear, and unfortunately a lot of that can stay tucked away in the bottom of a tackle box unused for years. There’s always a few items, however, that we find we simply can’t live without. I thought it would be fun to write an article about the most useful fishing gear I’ve ever bought. Everything here is fishing gear that has saved me money, time, or had such an incredible impact on my fishing that I can’t live without it.
Without further ado, here’s a countdown of the 10 most useful pieces of fishing gear I’ve ever bought. Read on to find out what I think is the most important piece of fishing gear ever!
10. Hook Sharpener
A quality hook sharpener is important as you’re only a few snags away from having dull hooks that are going to reduce your chances of hooking and landing fish. You don’t need to go too crazy with this but I do recommend having one in your tackle box. A few strokes on the file will give you considerable confidence which is almost as important as having a sharp hook in the first place.
These will also help you keep your lures longer and save money when buying used ones. Many used lures come with dull hooks, especially if they’re somewhat “vintage” (and it’s getting scary how something from the 90’s might even qualify as that now)! Even some of the newer crankbaits out there have hooks that leave something to be desired. A hook sharpener can turn a “so so” lure into dynamite.
A good hook sharpener that is inexpensive but also works well is the . This is the one I keep around and while it isn’t really much for bells and whistles it does the job.
9. Split Ring Pliers
Split ring pliers are a must-have tool when you’re fishing crankbaits, jerkbaits, or other plugs with thin wire hooks. For example, the Rapala Shadow Rap has got to be one of my favorite jerkbaits, yet the hooks on it are so thin it doesn’t stand up very well to large fish. While you can bend the hooks back a bit from time to time, they aren’t invincible and will eventually shatter. Having a pair of split ring pliers means the difference between tossing the plug away (or at least aside) and contining to fish it a few moments later.
I wrote an entire article about what split ring pliers I prefer, but the bottom line is I really prefer a dedicated tool rather than pliers that happen to have a beak. I think the dedicated tools really make life easier as they’re built for that purpose exclusively and I find I have a much easier time getting tiny split rings opened up with them.
Fishing lures are expensive and fish like to hide near cover that tends to snag said expensive fishing lures. Having some way (or at least hope) of retrieving your lures is going to come in handy if you’re casting where the fish are. I personally have a Frabill telescoping lure retriever on my boat and it paid for itself not long after purchase. Though this isn’t the most practical item to lug around with you on foot, it fits well into many storage compartments on a boat and really isn’t any more out of the way than a paddle if you have to leave it on the floor.
If you’re interested in other ways to reduce snags, you might want to check out my article where I discuss just that which you can find here.
OK, so this probably won’t make most folks Top 10 list of most useful fishing gear, but then again, most folks don’t have a father who keeps his crankbaits in his pocket in plastic bags. I have found that a tool that provides an easy and painless way to remove hooks from flesh is an indispensable part of my tackle box.
Don’t believe me? Go look up the costs of the average emergency room these days in the United States. When you get there, odds are all they’ll do is what this tool can do for free!
If you need some help in learning how to take a hook out on your own, check out this video of a very brave man who selflessly hooks himself and then removes it in an altruistic effort to help you learn the technique. This is one video I hope I never have to replicate!
6. Line Conditioner
If you throw a lot of fluorocarbon, you owe it to yourself to try out some line conditioner. What this does it make your fishing line much more supple and easy to manage. This is going to reduce the number of tangles you get and also extend the life of your line because it won’t knick and kink as much due to your just fishing with it rather than picking out tangles.
Fluorocarbon can be very difficult to manage without it so I definitely would encourage you to pick up a bottle. It’s another one of those pieces of fishing gear that can definitely save you money.
5. Waterproof Boots
A good pair of waterproof boots is going to make everything you do in fishing easier and better. They’re one piece of fishing equipment I constantly mutter to myself that I’ve got my money out of them and then some.
If you’re a shore fisherman, these are going to allow you to take a few steps out so you can get your cast where you want it instead of in a tree. You also don’t have to worry about mud, and, if you buy ones that are also snakeproof, you can walk around with more confidence even on wild shorelines.
If you’re on a boat these will make launching and retrieving it significantly easier. Half the reason you see people struggling on the holidays is because they’re trying not to get their feet wet. Being able to just walk in a bit to get everything going makes a world of difference, especially if you don’t launch or retrieve boats all that often.
Most trailers these days come with some form of load guides. What these do is help you load a boat correctly on a trailer, especially in times of heavy cross wind. While they aren’t completely necessary they’re an invention that is incredibly helpful and can save you much time, frustration, and embarrassment.
These are also important because while most trailers have a “sweet spot” where if it’s parked at just the right angle and depth, the boat will load on center, if you trailer your boat around a lot to new ramps, it can be hard to achieve this. The load guides at least can give you a visual reference as to how things are going and you can make adjustments as necessary.
3. Wacky Rig O-Ring Tool
For a blogger who writes about these wacky rig o-ring tools as much as I do, you’d think this would be the #1 most useful piece of fishing gear I’d recommend. Believe me, I considered it. But while this is an extremely useful tool, it’s only really useful for one particular situation – putting an o-ring on a wacky worm! Still, I consider this very inexpensive tool indispensable because it can often be found for about the price of a package of Senkos yet can make that package last three or four times as long as it normally would!
I fish a ton of braided fishing line, and the time between when I accidentally dropped my pair of specialty scissors for cutting it and the time when I replaced them was one of the more trying experiences of my life.
“Yes,” you “can” cut braid with pliers… But… No. No, you really can’t. It’s a pain in the butt to put it plainly and doesn’t work anywhere near as well as scissors. Also, I’ve found the cutting edge on the pliers tends to wear down much faster than on the scissors. It’s another one of those situations where a tool that is dedicated to the job is going to outperform a tool that can also do that job.
I personally use these braid-cutting fishing scissors from Rapala and find them to be perfect though you can also head into any hobby store and get some good fabric scissors (just don’t steal them from your wife or you’ll be the next thing tossed in the lake).
1. Minn Kota Terrova – the Most Useful Piece of Fishing Gear Money Can Buy
The #1 most important fishing tool you could ever buy that will save you time and frustration and pay for itself is a Minn Kota Terrova trolling motor. OK, so unless you’re fishing tournaments or monetizing fishing somehow, it won’t technically “pay” for itself, but you’ll catch so many more fish that it’ll feel like it.
I’ve been fishing these trolling motors for well over a decade and absolutely love them. Their spot lock feature is worth the price of admission itself, but there’s so much more. You can teach it to move along certain structure lines. You can easily change speeds from whatever you’re doing to max at the push of a button. Nowadays, you can move the boat 5 feet in any direction one button press at a time.
I wrote an extensive review of the latest Terrova I bought (which did make some welcome changes over older models. I’d check it out and then rush over to Amazon to buy one of these today as it really will change your fishing experience like nothing before. The Minn Kota Terrova is hands down the most important piece of fishing gear I’ve ever bought.
The Minn Kota Terrova is the best, most useful piece of fishing gear you could ever buy.
Conclusions
Well, that’s a pretty good line up of useful fishing gear right there. If you’ve tried other stuff that you just can’t live without, I’d love to hear all about it! Feel free to drop me an email or just post a comment below!
I hope this article helped! Thank you for reading!
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
Fishing is one of the few hobbies that can save (or even earn) you money while you enjoy it. While I suppose in the age of YouTube, any hobby out there ostensibly could do this for a select few content creators, fishing actually offers financial savings to the average joe.
The most apparent way anyone can save money while fishing is to eat the fish you catch. Fish are expensive in grocery stores and restaurants, yet are “free” in the wild. Yes, there are start up and licensing costs to the sport, but gear can last years and years and put many a fish on the table before it breaks.
There are also a number of inexpensive fishing tools you can invest in that will help you save money, and even some side gigs you can run to actively earn money while you’re out there on the water. Let’s get cracking on all the ways you can save or even earn money while fishing!
Eating Fish You Catch vs. Buying them in the Grocery Store
Fish is very expensive at the grocery store. My local Stop & Shop sells a variety of salmon products that range anywhere from $10.49 – $31.96/lb. Clearly, if you’re in a location where you can catch this fish, you can do far better getting it at sea, even after you factor in your start up costs.
You’ll also have a much more diverse platter available to you if you catch your own fish. For example, in Connecticut you’re really hard-pressed to find walleye for sale in many stores or restaurants like you would out in the midwest. If you want to eat a specific sort of fish, you may need to catch it yourself!
Eating wild-caught fish is also desirable in that you’ll never have a fresher meal than something that was breathing a few moments earlier. Shore lunch is delicious as is fish that you prepare for the table the day you’ve caught it. So, keeping fish where it makes sense is not only great for your wallet but also for your taste buds.
Fishing Side Gigs
If you’re really interested in making money with fishing, a side gig can be a huge help. I have plans to write a more indepth article about all the ways you can fishing your career soon, but in the meanwhile, here is a sneak peak at a few side gigs that can really help you make this a productive hobby.
Selling Fish
Some places will buy fresh fish. For example, for years Norms’ Bait and Tackle up in Crown Point would buy perch and other panfish. No idea if they still do or not, but back in the day, Dad and his friend George would limit out by the bridge and go sell them to Norm. George didn’t have much money at the time and it really helped him out. If you’re out there catching them anyway and you have this option, it can be a way to get a few bucks.
Making Lures
Many people make fishing lures or sinkers and then sell them. You can buy molds for soft plastics or sinkers and then mass produce them. If you’re handy with an airbrush or crafty with tying, you can also paint plugs or tie flies and either sell them online or to a local bait shop.
Writing About Fishing
Not that I’m all about competition, but this blog has been a rewarding way to earn some extra coin while fishing. You might consider writing a blog of your own! It took me a long time to see results but when they come you’ll be all the more inspired to continue!
How to Reduce the Cost of Fishing
As the old maxim goes, “a penny saved is a penny earned.” Even if you don’t want to eat the fish you catch, or to start up a side gig, you can still “save” money while fishing by not wasiting it. You do this in a few was. Buying gear that will last, buying fishing tools that make gear last longer, and by buying lifetime fishing licenses in states you frequent.
Buy Gear that Lasts
I am a huge advocate of buying appropriate gear of decent quality. Every time I try to cheap out on something, in fishing or really anything else, I find myself buying something better later that I should have just started with.
This doesn’t mean that you need to buy the most expensive gear out there. Indeed, there’s a point of diminishing returns when you start talking about price vs. Relative quality. All I’m saying is that if you buy a decent rod or reel, it’s more likely to hold up over time (and you’re more likely to take care of it) than whatever the cheapest option is.
Cheap products are, well, cheap. Lousy reels will have less ball bearings and poorer engineering that makes them break down sooner. Inexpensive fishing line will be more prone to break costing you lures and fish (as well as the line). A “bargain” boat or motor may either fail to perform as you need it to, or even worse, could have a hidden history of neglect that you’ll pay for in spades shortly.
If you really want to save money while fishing, a good way to do that is to buy stuff that will last more than a season. The great news is that you can even buy a lot of fishing gear used, which can increase those savings substantially. Check out this article I wrote about how to buy used fishing rods with confidence to get you started.
Consider Using Braided Fishing Line
While I’d recommend swapping out old monofilament or fluorocarbon line after each season, you can get away with a spool full of braid for as long as you have enough line to cast well.
Fishing Gear That Helps Save You Money
Aside from licensing, your biggest overhead cost is going to be your lures and gear. If you’re interested in saving money while fishing, you will want to purchase gear that pays for itself. There are a few fishing tools that are designed to reduce the number of lures you lose, which is a great place to start shaving away the costs of this hobby. Here are some of my favorites.
O-Ring Tool for Senkos
A fishing tool I’ve referenced frequently over the years is the O-Ring tool for rigging Senko worms up wacky style. This is a piece of fishing gear that will save you so much money that it can pay for itself in a couple of hours. It’s extremely inexpensive, very light to cary in your pocket, and very useful for helping your lures last longer.
Senko worms are notoriously soft. This gives them a great action and probably convinces wary bass to hold onto them just a bit longer than usual, but it also means that you will lose a ton of them on a fishing trip “out the box,” especially if you wacky rig them. The problem is they’re so soft that they just pull right off the hook when something (like a fish) gives them a tug.
The solution is to use an o-ring, which is just a piece of rubber in the shape of an o that slides over the Senko. This almost acts like a safety belt for the hook, so when a fish or snag gives it a tug, it’s less likely to pull the hook out of the worm. Given the price of Senkos these days, anything you can do to help them last longer is going to be key. (Honestly, check the best price at Amazon and do the math on them per worm and take a cold shower after).
There are many underwater hazards that you can’t necessarily see that will steel your crankbaits, jigs, and other lures. Rocks are the main culprits though you’ll also snag on your share of laydowns, debris, and junk in your life. When you consider that most crankbaits these days are going to start at $7.00 or so, a quality hook retriever can quickly pay for itself.
I purchased a telescoping hook retriever by Frabill to keep on my boat. It only took a few trips out with it to recoup my investment. While these aren’t too practical when fishing from shore, if you have a boat, one certainly belongs in your locker.
Wire Leaders
Sometimes a wire leader can save you a lot of money while fishing, especially if you’re in pike-infested waters. These toothy critters can make short work of fishing line and can take some expensive lures with them. I’d never throw a lure I wasn’t willing to lose forever without a wire leader in Lake Champlain. Even a large enough chain pickerely could spell the end.
Split Ring Pliers
Split ring pliers save you money in the sense that whereas some folks will break hooks on a crankbait and toss the lure, smart anglers will buy replacement hooks for a fraction of that cost and keep that lure in their tackle box. “Waste not, want not” after all. I once wrote an article about my favorite split ring pliers that you can check out here.
Another Great Way to Save Money While Fishing: Buy a Lifetime License!
Many states offer a lifetime fishing license that can be purchased. While this is an expensive investment (usually several hundred dollars) they tend to pay for themselves after 10-15 years or so, especially if the cost of fishing licenses goes up over time (and what doesn’t). Most will only offer this to residents, though a few allow non-residents to also purchase one for a premium.
Some states will even allow you to buy your children one of these lifetime licenses, and believe it or not, this can be less expensive than buying one as an adult. For example, in VT a resident fishing license for a child less than one years old costs $224. The instant that kid reaches one year of age, it doubles to $448. Even this only constitutes a price 16x greater than the current cost of a fishing license. If you’re a granparent and you have a grandchild who loves fishing, you really might want to look into one of these for them.
Conclusion: Fishing Is One of the Few Hobbies That Can Save You Money
While there are certainly start up costs, fishing is the only hobby I have where I actually make money. Yes, the way I do it is from this blog, but even if I just wanted to keep some fish to eat, I’d at least be able to break even each year.
A big part of the reason for this is that years ago I invested in decent equipment, often bought used, that has held up over time. I also have invested in useful fishing tools like o-ring pliers and hook retrievers that save me many lures each season. While I’m kicking myself in the head for not buying my kids VT fishing licenses (since they reciprocate for most of Lake Champlain) when they were younger, I might try and grab them one of those in the next few years as well.
Hopefully this article helped you figure out a few different ways you can save and even make money while fishing. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
Thanks,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
Plastic worms are some of the most versatile and useful fishing lures for bass fishing. Whether you’re a pro or an amateur, a plastic worm such as a Senko is a great choice to catch fish. Because of their immense popularity, plastic worms come in hundreds of colors, and it can be tough to figure out just which ones you need for certain conditions. If you wondered which color worms are best for bass fishing, this article is for you.
Does Worm Color Matter for Bass?
While you will occasionally have one of those blessed days where the fish hit anything, most of the time they’re going to be more selective. Choosing the right colored plastic worm can make a big difference in putting some bass in the boat or going home empty handed.
While most plastic worms come in dozens of color combos, you don’t need to overly complicate things most of the time. As with all lures, what you really want to do is make sure that your worm can be seen by bass in the given conditions, and color is going to play a big role in that. For example, worm color is going to matter quite a bit if it means the fish can actually see the target. Just as with spinnerbaits, darker colors like red and black are doing to do well on overcast days or darker water. Bright colors like chartreuse or white (or at least a worm tipped with such) will be good choices in stained water. In clearer water, something that reasonably matches the hatch, such as green pumpkin is probably going to be your best bet.
Do Bass Have a Favorite Color
As you might imagine, there have been a few different studies regarding largemouth bass and if they have a favorite color. One 1937 study found that bass could very easily distinguish the color red, “Red appears to be the outstanding color, as such, in the responses of the bass. This color is easily and readily selected from everything else, with the exception of violet” (source). Another study in 2019 confirmed this, essentially reaching the conclusion that bass are most likely to see red and green (source). This isn’t to say that they can’t see other colors, but that they’ll have difficult distinguishing between them. Accordingly, the giant array of colors in most tackle shops is more likely to catch fishermen than fish!
What’s the Best Plastic Worm Color for Bass Fishing?
If you ask certain anglers they will tell you that the color of your worms is a crucial factor in if a bass bites or not. I’m not all that convinced. While I do think there’s something to be said about the difference dramatic color variations can make (example, red vs. white), I really don’t think the variation of say two shades of red is going to matter. Your best best when choosing a plastic worm color for bass fishing is to keep things simple. There’s no need to have dozens of colors on your boat. Instead, approach it based on what situations you plan on encountering. Here are four plastic worm colors that work great for bass fishing in different situations.
Black/Purple/June Bug/Grape
Darker colored plastic worms such as black, purple, june bug and grape have been mainstays as long as plastic worms have been used for bass fishing. These are great in dark or stained water and on overcast days because they are more visible in such conditions than lighter colored lures. In addition to reds, bass do distinguish violet quite well per the studies cited above, so anything with a black or purple hue is going to work well.
Many anglers like using purple or black worms with a tail that’s tipped either bright chartreuse or red. This little color variation seems to help bass hone in on their target and can occasionally produce more strikes. For example, these Berkley PowerBait Power Worms that have a black body and bright chartreuse tail are phenomenal producers on southern Lake Champlain. They stand out very well in the generally stained water that you’re going to find south of the Crown Point bridge.
A darker colored worm can be the ticket on an overcast day.
Green Pumpkin/Watermelon
Plastic worms on the green/brown spectrum also work very well for bass in a variety of conditions. Green pumpkin is dark enough that it shows up well enough in stained water but also looks realistic enough that it makes sense in clear water too. You’ll find most of these come with different colored flakes. As you’ll see below, I don’t know that it really matters too much what you go with. Bear in mind that bass see reds and violets well so anything with that sort of hue is going to do well.
Chartreuse/White/Anything Bright
The third solid color variation when choosing a plastic worm for bass is choosing something bright. After all, you wouldn’t think twice about using a chartreuse or white fluke, or other soft plastic, so why not use it for a worm too? These colors are going to work well in stained water conditions as well as clear conditions assuming it isn’t too gaudy.
Do the Tiny Little Flakes Really Matter?
So you have probably noticed that many bass worms that are “green pumpkin” come with different flakes. There’s watermelon flakes, red flakes, black flakes, purple flakes. You name it. The question is if any of the tiny variations really matter. My best guess? Probably not. Let’s look at it this way – if a fish is really going to see the miniscule flakes and distinguish them from the base color (a tall order, per the research cited above), how are they going to notice that and not the hook, or sinker, or fishing line? Honestly, the fact that these flakes reflect is probably all you really need. Thinking that one color or another is going to make the huge difference that day? Likely placebo.
Do Bright Colored Worms Attract Bass?
So there’s two types of bass, OK? Those that have seen what you’re tossing before and know it’s a lure, and those that can still be fooled. While a bright colored lure like white, chartreuse, or even bubblegum pink might look awfully unnatural, they do catch fish. I’m just not so certain they’re going to catch the same fish as often throughout their lives as something that fits in better.
Having said that, bass attack lures for a number of reasons. The first is hunger. Another is anger (trying to kill the lure). The third is curiosity. How many years have we seen scientists explain on “Shark Week” that most shark attacks on humans are borne out of curiosity as the fish don’t have hands to figure out what things are – only their mouths. Well, a bass that hasn’t seen the bright colored worm you’re throwing might just be biting it to figure things out.
What is the Best Color Wacky Worm?
What about the ubiquitous wacky worm? Is there a best color for these? Honestly these might be the worms where you get the best bang for your buck by tossing an unusual color. Wacky worms just have so much going for them as I discussed in this post. They’re so unique and have a wonderful action on the fall that seems to perplex, entice, and annoy bass all in one. If you throw in a little wackier color to boot, you can really get them interested. Because of this I’m not afraid to throw a pink senko now and then when nothing else is working. You never know!
Conclusions: Most Worm Colors are for Show & Sales
Given the scientific research into just how well bass can differentiate color (read: not that well at all), you don’t need to mortgage your home to buy every color plastic worm out there. Stick with a few tried and true color variations. Have some darker plastic worms for overcast days or dingy water. Keep a good staple of green pumpkin or watermelon worms for every day use. Perhaps toss a few crazy bright colors in as well when you’re just looking to catch fish who are curious and taking a shot at seeing what this interesting object is exactly.
As with many lures, much of the perceived difference from using slight color variations is going to be placebo effect. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The power of positive thinking translates to fishing so to the extent you believe you’re going to catch a fish, you just might. If you find a particular color you have confidence in, load up the boat!
Thanks,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
One of the best lures to use if you simply have to catch a bass is a Senko on a wacky rig. These soft plastic worms are perfectly balanced for the wacky rig technique and for years have consistently put fish in the boat. A wacky rigged Senko is a great lure to catch largemouth bass because it is easy to fish and effective, making it one of the best techniques for beginners and kids (as well as pros)!
In this article, I’ll explain what a “wacky rig” is, how to rig a Senko wacky style, and also give some tips on some equipment you should pair with it to make your trip better. I’ll also offer my thoughts on a tool that will make this technique even better and much more affordable.
What is a Wacky Rig Worm?
To put it simply, a wacky rigged worm is any soft plastic lure that is hooked directly through its center. More than one person has remarked that it looks like something you’d expect a kid to come up with, but sometimes keeping it simple simply works. There’s a reason I have it as one of the four best fishing lures you can use with kids!
While the most common type of soft plastic to wacky rig is the Senko worm, it can also be utilized with pretty much anything you have. Flukes, tubes, creatures, stick baits and grubs all work just fine and might be exactly what the fish are seeking on any given day.
When you wacky rig a worm or other soft plastic, what you’re basically doing is letting both ends of it dangle and do its thing. This creates way more chaotic action than a Texas Rig (where the “front” of the lure is basically an extension of the line) would, for example. You basically double the action of any given soft plasitc which can have very interesting results.
This simple set up will help put your kids on plenty of bass.
How to Rig a Wacky Worm
You can wacky rig a worm with pretty much any hook you like, though they do make dedicated hooks for the job. Rigging it is as simple as it gets – simply thread whatever hook you’d like directly through the center of gravity of a soft plastic lure. The idea is to balance it out so both sides will kind of wobble back and forth on the fall. If you’re using a Senko or stick bait, this is pretty easy to find – just put it straight through the middle and call it a day. If you’re getting all wild like and using something like a fluke, you may need to adjust where you put the hook to get the desired action.
How to Fish a Wacky Rigged Senko
Wacky Rigged Senkos are exremely easy to fish – simple cast them out and wait while they drop down. Very frequently, fish will hit it on the drop. If you don’t get a bite, lift your rod tip back up to the 1-2 o’clock position to raise the worm up off the ground, reel in your slack, and have it fall again.
You can also retrieve a wacky rigged worm with little twitches, taps, and pops which will give it a darting action while you’re raising it off the sea floor. This, coupled with its tantalizing drop, can really turn fish on in a huge way.
This versatility and ease of use makes Senkos some of the best lures possible to tie on for a kid. Whenever I put together a fishing care package for a child I make sure I toss a few packs of Senkos in for good measure.
Disadvantage of the Wacky Rig
The three main disadvantages to wacky rigging your Senkos, worms, or other soft plastics are that this style is far less weedless than the Texas Rig, are prone to being bitten off by pickerel or pike, and are considerably less durable than other fishing set ups.
Can Wacky Rigged Worms Be Weedless?
While you can buy “weedless” wacky rigged hooks, the hook is still exposed and frankly the weed guard is just one more thing to snag. While these specialty weedless wacky rig hooks can help, you’re still going to catch a lot of weeds, so the wacky rig is better used in clearer water.
If you want to use a Senko and make it weedless, your better bet is to just Texas Rig it by putting the hook into the body of the worm. This will not have the same action as a wacky rig, but what good is action if it immediately hooks a weed?
Wacky Rigged Worms and Pike
The enticiing action of a wacky rigged worm is going to be just as irresistable to a northern pike or chain pickerel as it would be to a bass. Unfortunately, a wacky rig has no protection from the teeth of these predators, so it’s very easy to be bit off. If you’re insistent on fishing these lures in areas where northern pike and chain pickerel are prevalent, you should probably just accept that you’re going to lose the occasional worm to their teeth. You also might consider being proactive by using a fluorocarbon or even steel leader, though the latter can have a negative effect on such a light lure’s action.
How to Make a Wacky Rig More Durable
While worth it, a bag of Senkos isn’t cheap. This is made all the more problematic by the fact that the baits are very soft and therefore aren’t as durable as others. When you throw in how a wacky rigged worm really doesn’t have much of the hook connected to it, and it’s no suprise that these fling off so easily and you can go through more than a few packs of Senkos during a day.
To make a wacky rigged worm last longer, you’re going to want to use some sort of o ring. These are little rubber rings that slide over the worm and allow you to attach a hook more securely. Rather than simply embedding a hook in the soft plastic the worm, the o-ring acts as a brace that’ll keep your wom on the hook longer.
Do you need an O-Ring for Wacky Rig?
Using an o ring on an wacky rig isn’t strictly necessary but it is very helpful. Because Senkos are so soft, they tend to pull off the hook easily when wacky rigged. An o ring will allow you to get more casts and fish out of each worm.
What Can you Use Instead of an O Ring?
While o rings are very inexpensive and easy to use, if you run out of them, you have some other options. The most prevalent can usually be found by searching for a “neko rig band.” These bands are just like the o rings but a bit larger and more durable. Because they have a greater width, it is possible to rig them much more securely because you can thread the hook through both sides of the band in addition to the worm, which is going to maximize how many times you can throw it. If you decided to go with one of these, make sure you get yourself this tool that will help you put Neko sleeves on your Senkos.
Should I Use Braid or Mono for Wacky Rig?
You can use either braid or mono for wacky rig fishing. Because a wacky rig is usually fished in fairly clear water with few obstructions, there isn’t as great of a need for braid and its higher visibility may even be a disadvantage. On the other hand, braid will help you set the hook better and will allow you to handle larger fish with confidence. Braid will also afford slightly better capabilities when fishing near weeds as it will slice through them a bit better and reduce, though not eliminate, the number of times you get gunk on your hook.
How Deep Can You Fish a Wacky Rig?
Most anglers don’t fish a wacky rig that deep. Generally, they work well in 10′ of water or less, simply because they don’t have much weight to them. If you try to fish them deeper than this, you won’t be able to cover water as easily as you’ll have to wait longer for the Senko to sink to where you want it.
Should You Put a Weight on a Wacky Rig
Putting a weight on a wacky rig worm dramatically changes its action. The reaosn folks put weight on is typically to fish deeper water more effectively and quickly. While a weight will help you do that, it also changes the way the wacky worm fishes. A big part of the reason a wacky rigged Senko is so deadly is because of its maddeningly slow, tantalizing descent. Weight is going to change this and speed it up. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but sometimes you’re better off having a bit of patience and letting the fall do its thing, even if that means it takes a few more moments for the lure to reach the depth of the fish.
What Season is Best for Wacky Rig?
You can fish a wacky rig worm all year round but it is especially deadly in the spring when bass are spawning. There are few lures that are as effective at getting a strike than a wacky rig worm falling slowly near a bass bed. There’s something about the slow and wobbling descent that drives mama and papa bass crazy, so where fishing during the spawn is legal, spring can be the best season for tossing a wacky rig.
Wacky rigged worms also work well in fall and even summer, but the trick is you need to find bass that are shallow. While you can add weight to a wacky rigged worm to fish deeper, it’s not the norm with this technique. Instead, you’re usually fishing shallower, so you’re going to want to fish a wacky worm during seasons when bass tend to be shallow (chiefly, spring and fall).
What is the Best Rod for Wacky Worm Fishing?
Because the hook point is exposed on a wacky rig, you don’t need as heavy a rod as you might with a Texas rig. This is because you don’t need to drive the hook through the soft plastic lure and the fish’s mouth – just the latter. Accordingly, you can get away with something like a medium power, fast action spinning rod, though I’d still say you should probably keep it simple and go with the standard medium heavy worm outfit.
Some people (including myself) prefer fishing wacky rigged worms on spinning gear. First, it can be a fairly light presentation that is tough to toss on a baitcaster. Not as commonly discussed, but the way the spinning reel sits below the rod can sometimes make techniques that require short jerks much more comfortable. If you intend to give the wacky rigged worm little twitches on your retrive to the boat, you might find spinning gear more enjoyable.
Conclusions
A wacky rigged Senko is one of my go-to lures when I’m fishing with kids. While I relied heavily on the drop shot when my children were younger, now that Tristan is getting older I find him throwing these more.
While it can get expensive to throw Senkos without an o ring, if you make a minor investment in them, you can really extend the life of your plastic worms, making the wacky rig more effective. Definitely consider buying an o ring tool as it’s one of those few fishing items that will pay for itself quickly!
Thanks,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
If you’ve fished for any length of time, you’ve probably used live minnows for bait. Live minnows have everything that fishing lures could only dream of – they act, look, smell, sound, and taste just like the real thing, because they are! You’d think that live minnows would be the best fishing bait out there, and on some days you’d be right. However, they also have some significant drawbacks, as the lifespan of minnows leaves much to be desired when they’re in the care of the average angler!
In this article, I will explore everything you could ever think of about minnows. We’ll answer questions such as how long do minnows live, what is the lifespan of a minnow, how to keep minnows alive in a bucket, and much more! I’ll also suggest some products you can buy to make minnows last longer on your boat or how to keep minnows alive in a bucket.
Let’s get started!
One of Tristan’s larger catches.
How To Keep Minnows Alive in a Bucket
Since this is a fishing blog, let’s get right down to business. You’re going to want to learn how to keep minnows alive in a bucket if you want your baitfish to last. There are some tricks you can do to assist with this. If you find that your minnows are dying too easily and want to figure out a way to keep them alive better, read on.
How Long Do Minnows Live in a Bucket?
A bucket is not an ideal place to keep your minnows for any length of time. Minnows only are going to live in a bucket for about 24 to 72 hours, and that’s only if you take some steps to keep them healthy such as keeping the water cool and oxygenated. If you need to stretch things out, here are the main ways to keep minnows alive longer in a bucket.
Use a Dedicated Minnow Bucket
I get that times are tough and you might want to multitask that old five gallon bucket you have lying around, but that is not the best choice to keep minnows alive. Rather, you should make a small investment in a dedicated minnow bucket that will keep them alive longer. Minnow and live bait buckets are insulated, such as this Insulated Bait Bucket by Frabill. This is going to help you keep temperatures ideal so the water doesn’t over heat and doesn’t stress. If you couple this with a solid portable aerator, you have a winning combo to keep your minnows alive longer.
Keep the Water Temperatures Ideal
Fish stress, and eventually die, when they are placed into water temperatures out of their preferred range, and minnows are no different. You’re going to want to keep the water generally cool and out of the sun. If your bucket has a lid (with air holes, of course), use it as this will create shade to help keep the water cooler. If your bucket doesn’t have a lid, you can use any fabric you have that is breathable, including a shirt or rag. The idea is to create shade. On super hot days, you can also toss a few ice cubes in the water to help control the temperatures, though it’s unlikely you’ll have a steady supply of these out on the lake.
Change out the Water in Your Minnow Bucket
Another solid tip for keeping your minnows alive longer is to change out the water in their bucket throughout the day. Just take about 1/3 at a time to get some fresh water in. This will help keep the water cool, will bring in fresh and oxygenated water for the minnows to breath, and will cut down on ammonia and other waste that can build up in a fish tank (or bucket) over time. Think about it, you’d never throw a bunch of fish into a livewell without recirculating the water. A bucket, while less fancy, is no different. You need to recirculate the water by hand.
Just be careful not to overdo it. Take a cue from the aquarium owners out there. They’d never completely change out the water as this could be too much of a shock to fish due to sudden temperature or pH change. Instead, do partial changes of about a third of the bucket now and then. Give the water a chance to mix together and the minnows to get used to their new surroundings in your bucket to give them the best chance to live longer.
Don’t Overcrowd the Bucket
Too many minnows in a bucket can spell disaster. Avoid overcrowding it as you don’t want the fish to use up all the available oxygen too fast. Most folks who have aquariums suggest trying to avoid having more than 12 to 24 minnow-sized fish in a gallon of water. Granted, you’re going to be using the minnows throughout the day so you can stretch this a bit if the fish are biting, but don’t stretch it too much or you could have issues. Definitely practice water changes or consider using an aeration system if you’re going to keep many minnows at once.
Use an Aerator
If you’re serious about keeping your minnows alive in a bucket, you need to make an investment in an aerator. These machines keep the water in a bucket aerated so your minnows can live longer. While you’re going to have to check Amazon for the best price, these aren’t very expensive at all. You’ll probably spend about as much on the live bait as the aerator! Thus, it’ll be a product that pays for itself after a few trips.
To be honest, I’ve never had the need to use one because I just keep my minnows in my live well, which has a handy recirculation pump. However, if I wanted to buy an aerator to keep my minnows alive in a bucket longer, I’d go with the Beyond Bubbles Portable Live Bait Aerator. This is a small and compact device that can clip right onto the lid of a bucket, making transportation easy. It runs off of on D battery and boasts 30 hours of continuous bubbling, which should be more than most fishermen will ever need. The company claims this product will lead to longer bait life and I have no reason to doubt them. The price is also very justifiable as mentioned earlier. Head on over to Amazon and pick on up today.
Protect Them!
The number one trip of course keeping them away from raccoons or else you’ll come outside to a mess the next morning! If you’re going to store minnows in a bucket overnight and plan on leaving them outside, make sure you put a pretty solid rock on top of the lid so animals like raccoons can’t get in. These crafty little buggers love nothing more than to open up a bucket and steal your baitfish. Ask me how I know…
The Ultimate Minnow Bait Bucket
If you wanted the Mercedes of minnow bait buckets, the kind of bucket that has all the bells and whistles you need to keep your minnows alive longer, you’d have to go with the Engel 30qt Live Bait Cooler Box offered at Amazon. Every once in awhile when I’m researching an article, I come across a product that I just have to stop and shake my head at because it’s so perfect.
First, there’s four rod holders attached to the bucket. This would make this absolutely perfect for using in a gheenoe or other small watercraft, or for taking down to a pier and doing some fishing along the shore.
Secondly, there’s a net inside the cooler that contains all your bait at all times. This means you can simply lift the net up to grab a baitfish easily without injuring them by chasing them about with a small bait net of your own. This is convenient, efficient, and should help make your minnows and other live bait last longer. After all, your minnows are going to stay alive longer in a bucket if they aren’t all bruised up.
As mentioned, it has a built-in 2 speed, 3 way aerator pump that can operate either with two D Cell batteries or your cigarette car lighter, which means you can run this thing all the way to the water.
Finally, it has watertight stainless steel latches. This means you aren’t going to spill the bait all over the car (which is absolutely horrendous, trust me) and it ALSO keeps your fish safe from raccoons and other crafty buggers.
This thing is a beast. If you fish with minnows often and are trying to keep them alive longer in a bucket, go pick this up at Amazon.
How Long Do Minnows Live For?
Some of you may have visited this blog with a general interest in how long the species lives for. Well, here it is. It seems that the smaller the animal and further down the food chain they are, the shorter they live for. Insects and mice for example don’t have very long lifespans, and it’s the same for minnows. The lifespan of your average minnow is short. While in captivity, some minnows can live for up to five years or so, they generally don’t live past the age of two in the wild, as minnows face severe threats to their lifespan such as predation, environmental facts, and disease.
Minnows are going to have a better chance of living longer in captivity. After all, most of the threats to their lives can be managed very well if you’re storing minnows in an aquarium. Minnows can even live longer in ponds assuming you take good care of them, though they’re still going to be subject to predation even if you don’t introduce gamefish (birds being a primary culprit).
“Minnows,” however, is a broad term and you need to break it down by species. Here’s how long various minnow (and minnow-like) species live for:
Fathead Minnow
The lifespan of a fathead minnow is short. As a major food source, most are going to be picked off by predators and die before they reach two years old. A variation of the fathead minnow, the rosy red minnow, has become a popular aquarium fish which has allowed close observation of its lifespan. Folks have found that these fathead minnows tend to live for about 2 years if they’ve spawned, but can stretch it out a few more if they haven’t.
Bluntnose Minnow
Considered one of the most common freshwater fish in the Eastern United States, Bluntnose minnows live about one or two years in the wild, with specimens in captivity living a bit longer.
Common Shiner
The life span of a common shiner is longer than many other baitfish or minnows as it can live for about 4-6 years. They tend to reach sexual maturity after a year or so and can grow to about 6-8 inches long. If you’ve ever caught a shiner with hook and line there’s a decent chance it is one of these.
Golden Shiner
Native to eastern north America, golden shiners are a popular bait for Florida strain largemouth bass. The lifespan of the golden shiner is a bit longer than some other minnows. They reach sexual maturity at about one to three years of age depending on where they are in their range. Those in warmer, southern climates tend to start breeding faster than those in the north, in common with many other fish species. They tend to lay up to 200,000 eggs per year and can live up to 8 years, though 3-6 is far more common. These are large minnows, which makes them less likely to be picked off by absolutely everything and this contributes to their longer lifespans.
Mosquitofish
The mosquitofish is a small minnow native to the mid-west United States. The lifespan of a mosquitofish minnow averages less than a year, but it’s maximum lifespan in the wild is about 1.5 years. As these fish live fast and die young, they tend to reach sexual maturity within about 43 to 62 days, depending on local conditions.
Threats to a Minnow’s Lifespan
Minnows face significant threats to their lifespan in the wild. Here are some of the more common.
Predation
As minnows are so far down the food chain, they serve as an important source of food to several other animals. Everything from larger fish to turtles and birds loves a good meal of minnows, and picks them off bit by bit throughout the year. Because minnows have soft fin rays rather than spines, they’re even the desired meal as they go down the hatch much easier. If you’ve ever been spiked by a sunfish, you’ll know what I’m talking about. Minnows really have no defense in the wild except for numbers, and predators do a good job of witling down those throughout the year.
Environmental Factors
Minnows aren’t particularly hardy creatures. They tend to be some of the first fish that winterkill and it’s not uncommon to see them floating all around the lake in spring after ice out. They don’t hold up very well to changes in water temperature or such, which also has an impact on their numbers.
The Lifespan of a Minnow
While it’s going to differ slightly between species, minnows, as baitfish, tend to have a similar lifespan. It can be helpful to understand a minnows lifespan to better understand how to care for them and get them to live longer.
How Often Do Minnows Reproduce
It might surprise you to hear that unlike fish like bass, minnows can spawn up to twelve or so times throughout a year. As with most fish, spawning season tends to be driven by water temperature. For example, fathead minnows start to spawn when the water temperature hits about 60°F, which usually means around June in the northern hemisphere. Their spawning season will continue until the water drops below this again, which tends to be mid-August. With females releasing a few hundred eggs on average, you can see that this fish restocks rapidly. This is necessary to keep the lake ecosystem in balance.
How Long Are Minnows Pregnant?
Most minnows don’t actually become pregnant – instead, females lay eggs which males then fertilize during the spawn. Flathead and blutnose minnows as well as the various shiners (such as common and golden) that are often called minnows, all reproduce by spawning. Of the common minnows, only mosquitofish have live births, and these fish are usually only pregnant between 16 to 28 days. Each brood can have as many as sixty young, though this decreases as the year goes on (as Mosquitofish too can produce many spawns of offspring throughout a year).
How Long Does it Take for Minnows to Mature?
Minnows mature at different rates depending on the species. Some, like mosquito fish, can reach sexual maturity in a matter of months. Others, like the golden shiner, can first breed at three years in parts of their range.
Do dead minnows work as bait?
If you were unsuccessful in keeping your minnows alive, don’t fret. Dead minnows work great for bait, especially if you’re after catfish, bowfin, or bullhead. I’ve had much success over the years soaking dead minnows on a drop shot rig off my dock, calling in big cats and bowfin. In fact, some of these species even seem to like them deader than usual. Just think of it this way, consider all the time and effort people expend making “stink bait” for these fish. Folks will tell you to leave the bucket of goo out in the afternoon sun for a few days to get it nice and ripe. A dead minnow is even more natural and several of these rough fish fulfill a function in the lake by cleaning them up to eat.
Many northern pike anglers also use dead minnows as bait, though they tend to recommend freezing them overnight rather than leaving them in the sun. That’s not to mean you should toss them frozen – but you only want to thaw them enough to get a hook through. Once they’re in the water they should soften up soon enough. Because pike are opportunistic feeders who won’t pass up carrion when they have the opportunity, dead minnows can work well as bait for them. This website here has a great explanation of exactly how to rig them up.
Conclusions: Keep your Minnows Alive if You Can, But If Not… Catfish!
If you’re going through all the trouble of buying or catching minnows for fishing, you might as well invest a little time and effort in keeping them alive. Doing so will give your more options for fishing and allow for more productivity on the water. Minnows aren’t the most hardy species out there though, so if (when) they die on you, don’t forget that at least you can always use dead minnows for catfish, bullhead, bowfin, or other rough fish. Where legal, it’s not the worst idea to stick them on a second rod while you’re actively fishing something else and just wait for something to tug the line.
Hopefully this article was helpful to you. If you enjoyed it, consider purchasing my books below as they’re full of even more helpful tips.
Thanks,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
If you take enough kids fishing, there will come a time when you’ll run into one who struggles with reeling. This is usually a sign that the child isn’t comfortable using that hand to reel, and would prefer it if the reel handle was on the other side. If you’re using a spinning reel, it is easy enough to change. This article will walk you through how to change a fishing reel from right to left handed in a jiffy.
What Is Considered a Right Handed Reel?
A reel is right handed if the handle is on the right side of it. In other words, if you are using your right hand to turn a properly installed reel, it is right handed. In contrast, if the handle is on the left side and you use your left hand to turn it, it is left handed. Whichever hand is working the reel will tell you if it is a right or left handed model.
Changing a Spinning Reel From Right to Left Handed
One of the main advantages of spinning reels is that you can change them from right to left handed and vice versa. This makes them great reels for amateurs or for children as it is easy enough to swap them out if someone just doesn’t like the feel of the current retrieve.
Spinning reels easily break down so you can change them from right to left handed.
Changing the Direction of a Fishing Reel
Opposite the reel handle there is a small dial called a dust cap. This acts to prevent dust from getting in your reel. Unscrew this.
Holding the reel for leverage, take the reel handle and loosen it by reeling “backwards” or towards yourself if you were holding it straight ahead.
Once the handle is all the way unscrewed, place it in the hole on the opposite side where the dust cap used to be. Reel it tight by turning the handle the way you would if you were reeling in line until it is tight.
Replace the dust cap on the opposite side from where it started.
That’s all there is to it. It’s as easy as can be! This is something that can be done quickly, in the boat, or on shore. While some models have slight variations (for example, some of the dust caps double as part of the screw for the reel), most spinning reels can be changed from right to left handed in this fashion.
Can You Break a Spinning Reel Trying to Change it From Right to Left Handed?
Don’t worry too much about messing this up. If everything isn’t connected properly, it will be obvious because your reel handle will be flopping around like a wet noodle.
Are All Spinning Reels Reversible?
There’s the phrase “never say never” but most spinning reels are reversible. There’s very little reason for a manufacturer to not allow a spinning reel to change from right to left handed and vice versa because of the way these reels are designed. It’s basically a standardized option for the type. All the same, if this is a concern for you, make sure you double check the reel before you leave the store so you don’t get stuck with the few models that won’t reverse. Most likely, you will find you have a fishing reel you can change from right to left handed as needed, but you never know.
Do You Reel With Your Dominant Hand?
A major reason you might want to change your fishing reel from right to left handed is if you preferred to reel with your dominant hand. Given that most people are right handed on this planet, and most baitcasters (or at least traditional ones) have a right hand retrieve, it stands to reason that most people are reeling in with their dominant hand. That doesn’t mean that you have to, however. I certainly don’t.
I prefer that my dominant hand be the one working the rod as I fish a lot of jerkbaits, worms, and other lures that require a lot of input. However, there is a good argument to be made that I’d be more effective fishing lures like crankbaits while reeling with my dominant hand. The rationale being that you can get the crankbait down deeper, faster, by reeling in more quickly with your dominant hand than you can with your other.
Can You Change the Handle Side on a Baitcaster?
No, you cannot change the handle side on a baitcaster from left to right or vice versa. You need to purchase a baitcaster reel with a dedicated left or right-handed retrieve. Baitcasters have complicated braking systems and are not symmetrical like spinning reels. Often, one side has a bulge to accommodate mechanicals that the other side completely lakes, and they can’t just be reversed. They are not designed to have their retrieve side changed. Do not purchase a baitcaster assuming you can change the handle side on it from left to right as you can’t.
Frankly, when researching this article I was appalled to find how many niche sites are out there telling you that you can. While I suppose there may be some odd baitcaster on the market that is designed for switching, I have never seen it, and the articles that claim this is possible aren’t citing specific examples either. Be careful about who you take advice from on the internet.
Check out the photo below. Do you see that giant chunk of metal between the reel handle and the reel? Yeah, that’s not reversible. Anyone who tells you it is needs to be vetted for whatever other advice they’re pitching. Since baitcasters can be quite expensive, make sure you get one with the handle on the side you prefer!
It is impossible to change the handle side on a baitcaster.
Can You Get Left Handed Fishing Reels?
Yes, left handed fishing reels are available for sale. They’ve become much more popular over the past decade or so, as more and more manufacturers have started offering them. For example, the Pro Qualifier from Bass Pro comes in left and right hand retrieves in most, but not all, of its gear rations. The 6.8:1 gear ration model is designated with the model number PQD10HLA as opposed to PQD10HA for the left hand version.
Just be aware that not every brand is going to offer every model baitcaster reel in a left handed version. If you’re looking for a particular gear ratio or retrieve, you might need to shop around to find one.
Why Are Most Baitcasters Right Handed?
While nowadays you can find more and more left handed baitcast reels, this wasn’t always the case. For the longest time, most of them were right handed. There are a few reasons for this. First, it’s simply the way they were designed way back when, and old habits are hard to kick. Further, because a baitcaster reel works like a winch, it was designed as such. Pretty much every winch out there for other applications (such as securing your boat to the trailer), you’re going to use your dominant hand. As most folks are right handed, when the first baitcast designers built the reel, they figured folks would want to winch it in with their dominant hand.
This does create an interesting situation where you’ll see most guys using baitcasters switch hands. What I mean by this is they’ll cast with their dominant right arm and then take the rod with their left hand once the lure hits the water. They then reel with their right hand. Given how many professional anglers do this, I guess it isn’t a problem. Still, I’ve had enough fish strike my lure the instant it hits water that I prefer to use a left hand reel. This way I don’t have to switch.
Conclusions
While you can easily switch a spinning reel and even a few spincast reels from right handed to left handed and vice versa, it is not usually possible to switch the handle side of a baitcaster. Therefore, if you truly have a preference, make sure you buy a proper left or right hand retrieve reel from the get go, so you aren’t disappointed.
Also, can we just agree that we need to be discerning on the internet? I tend to research these posts just to see what else is out there to try and provide more useful information for you, and this particular topic upset me. There are some folks out there who are giving very bad information that could cost people a lot of money! If you ever have ANY questions, or don’t quite understand what I’m saying, PLEASE send me an email and let’s talk it through. The main reason I started this site was to help folks who are new to this sport get the hang of things, and I would hate for you to misinterpret things and have a bad experience. I’m here, so write me!
Thanks all,
John Paxton
Want to learn how to take your kids out fishing? Do you have a friend who might need a hand? Click the pictures below to purchase my helpful books!
I consider northern pike to be akin to the “final boss” on any fishing trip. Large, strong, and armed with fearsome teeth, you’re going to need the proper tackle to bring them to the boat, and the best fishing line for pike is a huge part of that.
I prefer to use braided fishing line for pike as they aren’t particularly line shy and you’re going to need the strength of braid. The best fishing line for pike fishing that I’ve found is PowerPro Spectra Fiber Braided fishing line in anywhere from 20-50lb test, depending on what cover you’re fishing. You could use other braids as well, but I don’t know why you would as PowerPro is simply an incredible product.
While I prefer to use a solid braided line when fishing for pike, don’t worry. I’ll also talk about what monofilament, fluorocarbon, and even wire lines I’d consider for specialized applications. Sometimes they’re the best option depending on what you want to do.
Can Pike See Fishing Line?
Northern pike are sight predators and I promise you, they can see your fishing line. However, you shouldn’t worry about it, because pike don’t care. After all, they can also see your boat, you, and your rod figure eighting in the water right in front of them. They don’t care. They are neither line nor boat shy predators and often their aggression gets the best of them. Don’t believe me? Consider that some of the best pike waters are crystal clear lakes in Canada, and the pike grow so massive there that everyone and their brother is throwing a wire leader. Even though pike can clearly see this wire fishing line, it isn’t stopping them from biting now, is it?
Catching pike isn’t easy, but using the right fishing line helps.
The Different Fishing Lines for Pike To Choose From
There are several broad categories of fishing line on the market. While this may be old hat to some, if you’re new, here’s the major differences and also an explanation of when you should use these types of fishing line while fishing for pike. After all, the question of “what’s the best line for northern pike?” all depends on the situation.
Monofilament
Monofilament lines are what many of us started on. Their basically the go-to all around option for a host of fishing applications. They are relatively translucent, strong, and are quite affordable. They’re also significantly easier to handle than fluorocarbon lines of the same line test as they don’t have the same memory, or tendency to coil. One aspect of monofilament that you should be aware of is that they tend to stretch more than other lines. This can be a good thing or a drawback depending on what you’re looking to do.
When to Use Monofilament Fishing Lines for Pike
You’ll want to use monofilament line for for pike fishing when you’re using topwater lures, or other ones with thin treble hooks. Monofilament fishing line is ideal for both situations. It has a tendency to float, which means it won’t pull your topwater plug down and change its action. Further, the stretch it gives makes it less likely that you’ll pull a thin treble hook from the mouth of a pike while fishing with it. This can mean that monofilament is also a good fishing line for pike if you’re using crankbaits or other treble hook lures, at least in open water.
My personal favorite monofilament is simply Berkley Trilene XL. I’ve been using this as a kid and find that it has all the qualities I want in a monofilament line. While there are other brands out there that cost more (implying, right or wrong, that they might be “better”) I’ve never been let down by Berkley Trilene XL. Case in point, I actually received a letter of commendation, a pin, and a hat from them when I was seven or so and caught my first large northern pike while using their fishing line. I don’t know what that care package cost them but they secured a customer for life! If you want to try out the best monofilament fishing line for pike, pick up some Berkley Trilene XL today.
While monofilament fihsing lines aren’t renowned for their abrasion resistance, Berkley does offer another variation of their line which is tougher. Aptly named, “Berkley Trilene XT Extra Tough,” this can be a good monofilament fishing line for pike if you’re fishing near heavy cover but still want the stretching and floating nature of mono vs. fluoro.
Fluorocarbon
Fluorocarbon lines are more difficult to use than monofilament as they have a high memory. This means that they will retain the shape of the spool on your reel and can be a pain to handle. You can, however, treat this with line conditioner such as Kevin Van Dam’s Line & Lure Conditioner. You should definitely do this, because once you tame it, flurocarbon is a great fishing line for pike. First, it’s nearly invisible underwater compared to other lines and also is very abrasion resistant. Many pike leaders are made with fluorocarbon for both of these reasons.
When to Use Fluorocarbon Fishing Lines for Pike
Fluorocarbon is the best fishing line to use for pike if you’re fishing near a bunch of abrasion-causing structure, such as rocks, or if the water is extra clear and the pike are spooky. While you will need to cut off line and retie after some time fishing near rocks and other sharp structure, chances are that fluorocarbon will at least last long enough to get your lure and your fish to the boat when hooked.
My favorite fluorcarbon fishing line for pike (or any species, really) is Seaguar InvizX. I’m kind of a meat and potatos guy and frankly the lines I’ve chose are ones that were recommended to me many moons ago over on ultimatebass.com. The guys over there really liked this stuff back when I was starting to really get into fishing as an adult. The reason I love it is I find it is much easier to use than other types of fluorocarbon, especially if you match it with that line conditioner I talked about above. I’m sure there are other products by now that also do the trick, but when I find a product I like, I tend to keep buying it forever.
You can also use regular fluorocarbon line as a leader, though I’d definitely up the pound test if you’re hoping to get past pike teeth. The more common reason to use fluorocarbon line as a leader is for situations where fish are line shy and you don’t want them to focus on your main line of braid or such. Since pike aren’t really too line shine of a species, this may not be a big deal for you.
Braid
Braided fishing line is the best fishing line you can use for northern pike. They aren’t a line shy species at all, and so the fact that braid is so visible doesn’t matter. Braided fishing lines are exceptionally strong for their diameter, which makes fishing for northern pike with spinning gear viable. Since 20lb test braided line has the same diameter as 6lb monofilament, it easily can work on even 3000 series spinning reels. Braid has absolutely no stretch however, so it can be a poor choice when treble hooks. You can compensate somewhat by reducing your drag.
In my opinion, PowerPro is the best braided fishing line for pike.
When to Use Braided Fishing Lines for Pike
Braided fishing line works well for pike in most conditions. It’s easier to talk about the times you shouldn’t use it than the times you should. I hesitate to use braid when I’m fishing with treble hooks as it has so little stretch that it can easily pull the hooks out of a fish’s mouth. You also don’t usually want to use braid in situations where the fish are line shy, though that usually isn’t a problem for northerns. If it is, you can always tie on a fluorocarbon leader to help out.
I like using braided line when trolling for pike or pickerel as I’m usually doing this near weeds. Braided fishing line does a good job of slicing through weeds and it can reduce the amount of times you get hung up and have to reset your approach.
Of all the braids out there, I’ve been fishing with PowerPro forever. Again, this is another thing I picked up over at ultimatebass, where it seemed everyone was tossing this stuff. Near as I can tell, they still are. It’s a great product that holds up well over the years. I don’t normally have to respool until my spool runs low due to retying lines. You don’t need to bother changing it out each year as it is still fine. I definitely recommend heading over to Amazon and picking a spool or ten up.
Should You Use a Leader for Pike?
The question of if you should use a leader for pike is, as most things, situational. Pike have a nasty habit of biting through many lines, especially if they’re large. Some lures like spinnerbaits have a bit of built-in tooth protection in their bent wire frames. Still, the bigger the pike the more likely it’ll inhale a lure to the point that it has a chance to cut the line regardless of what you’re fishing.
If you’re using a lure that you don’t want to lose, such as an expensive jerkbait, a wire leader can be a godsend when fishing for northern pike. You have a few different options for leaders. You can purchase premade leaders made of steel or fluorocarbon, or you can buy a knottable wire product and use your own knots.
What Line Strength is Best for Pike?
Northern pike aren’t generally buried in heavy cover like largemouth bass sometimes are, so I don’t know that you’d really need the same monster line strength braid as you do fishing frogs in the slop, for example. You should be just fine using 20 – 30lb braid when fishing for pike. This is strong enough to handle the largest pike you’re likely to encounter in North America. If you’re fishing in Europe, you may want to bump this up a bit.
The Best Pike Line for Special Situations
To further complicate matters, different types of fishing line will prove best when fishing for pike in certain situations.
Best Fly Line for Pike Fishing
I don’t fly fish, but if I was going to fly fish for pike, I’d check out this page by esoxonly to learn about the best fly line for pike. The author gives all sorts of recommendations for the best fly line for pike fishing depending on if you want a floating line or one that sinks. He’s pushing a brand of line called Scientific Angler and makes a good case for it. Go show his site some love and check it out. To be honest, it’s one of the best articles on line I’ve ever read.
Best Line for Trolling for Pike
I’m a big believer in using braided fishing line when trolling for pike. Usually when you’re trolling for pike or pickerel you’re doing so in a weedy bay. The braided line cuts through the errant weed here and there very well. Another benefit that makes braided fishing line the best for trolling for pike is how it doesn’t stretch. Pike will do a good job of hooking themselves on a trolling pass if you use braid.
As mentioned earlier, I like using PowerPro braided line for pike, and it’s no different when I’m trolling. I’ve had much success with this fishing line over the years and see no difference to change things up and try anything else.
Best Pike Line for Heavily-Pressured Waters
If you’re fishing for pike in heavily-pressured waters, you might want to try using fluorocarbon. While northern pike aren’t normally afraid of fishing line, and will bite lures right next to a boat, to the extent they’re heavily pressured, even they will (eventually) learn. When pike are spooky, fluorocarbon might give you an extra edge as it is more difficult fishing line for pike to see. Seaguar InvizX is a solid choice.
Best Pike Line for Night Fishing
When fishing for pike at night it can help if you can see your line even if the fish can’t. Power Pro makes a high visibility yellow version of their line that you might find useful for nocturnal pike fishing. This will help you detect bites when you are using lures that don’t make the bite obvious.
Best Pike Line for Ice Fishing
Those who ice fish for pike tend to recommend using a specially “ice braid”. Suffix 832 makes such a product that you can purchase here. This line is specifically designed to be used in icy waters because the braid has a tighter weave than traditional braid and also has a coating that is water-repellent. Because of this, the braid is less likely to freeze up and get ice chunks on it than regular braided lines would as it doesn’t have the microscopic nooks and crannies for water to collect in that normal braid does.
Conclusions: The Best Fishing Line for Northern Pike Is Situational
In conclusion, the best fishing line for northern pike is highly dependent on the situation. If you’re on a budget, or tossing lures with thin treble hooks, then monofilament line might work well for you. On the other hand, fluorocarbon is probably the best line for pike when fishing around obstructions. With all that said, my favorite line for fishing with pike is by far braid. It’s strong, reliable, easy to use, and doesn’t seem to scare pike away any. When I’m trying to catch the biggest predator in the lake, I’m tossing braided fishing line for pike, all day long.
If you’re new to fishing you might wonder about the differences between a 1 piece vs 2 piece fishing rod including which is better, and why. The answer isn’t that complicated.
One piece fishing rods are superior to two piece fishing rods in all regards except mobility. One piece fishing rods are more sensitive, durable, and less likely to have issues while fighting fish. The best rod manufacturers also tend to exclusively manufacture one piece fishing rods. IF they offer a two piece variety, the selection is very limited. The only reason you’d buy a dedicated two piece fishing rod is if you had little room for them in your car or boat and needed a rod that can store easier.
All of these fishing rods are 1 piece, and for good reason.
The Few Main Advantages of 2 Piece Fishing Rods
While I feel you you should really spend your money on a 1 piece fishing rod vs. a 2 piece rod, there are some advantages of a 2 piece fishing rod. The advantages of a two piece fishing rod basically boil down to ease of storage, reparability, and price.
Storage & Transportation. A two piece rod breaks into two short pieces. This means it’ll fit into the trunk of your ol’ Hyundai Elantra with the missing headlight with ease. You don’t need to get creative with how or where to put a two piece rod as they’ll fit pretty much anywhere. This could make them ideal for someone who lives in an apartment or has a small car.
Reparability. If you break a one piece fishing rod and your manufacturer won’t replace it under warranty, the repair is probably going to change the rod for the worse. Often, if the tip is damaged the only way to repair it is with a replacement tip that shortens the rod, changes its action, and decreases its sensitivity. With a two piece fishing rod, just get a replacement part for the part you broke, and you’re good as new. Some manufacturers will even mail you this.
Price. This isn’t really an apples to apples advantage of a 2 piece fishing rod vs. a 1 piece rod, but two piece rods tend to be less expensive. Unfortunately, the reason for this is that they tend to be of lesser quality too. So, while “yes,” your 2 piece rod will be less expensive than the typical 1 piece, it will also be “worse.” Still, with inflation doing its thing lately, price can matter in a big way.
More Obscure Advantages of 2 Piece Fishing Rods vs. 1 Piece Fishing Rods
While storage and price are the two main advantages of a two piece fishing rod, there are a few more obscure perks you may not have thought of.
2 Piece fishing rods make it easier to spool line. The main reason I keep a 2 piece fishing rod around is to help me spool line on reels. While I suppose you could go and buy a dedicated line spooler, it’s easier, in my opinion, to just toss the reel onto a two piece fishing rod, take off the top, and go to town.
If you hate buying things on the internet, you might have more options. Most of the big box stores like Wal-Mart and Dick’s Sporting Goods are going to have more 2 piece fishing rods vs. 1 piece fishing rods for sale. You might have an easier time finding that particular power or action you’re looking for on any given day. On the other hand, much as with price, while there are “more” rods that doesn’t mean the surplus is any good!
The Critical Disadvantages of 2 Piece Rods
Although 2 piece fishing rods have some advantages like storage and price, their disadvantages are overpowering. Here are some of the critical disadvantages of a two piece fishing rod:
Less durability. Because you’re adding a connection point between the two halves of the rod, you’re creating a weak point that can break. Couple this with the fact that most (though not all) two piece fishing rods are of lesser quality than their one piece counterparts, and you can have a rod that’s more likely to break, even if it can be easier to fix when it does.
Decreased sensitivity. Because the blank is not one unified structure, a 2 piece fishing rod is generally going to be less sensitive than similar 1 piece rods. Granted, there are plenty of techniques out there where this doesn’t matter (basically everything to do with power fishing), but for some, like jigs, it can make a big difference.
More things to go wrong. A two piece fishing rod comes apart into two pieces. This seems obvious enough. The problem is the act of taking the fishing rod apart and putting it back together creates wear and tear. Over time, this joint can crack and break. There’s also the possibility that you don’t connect the two parts (called “ferrules”) together fully, which could cause them to come apart while you’re fighting a fish. Finally, if you don’t line them up perfectly, it can impact casting distance or contribute to line twist and other issues.
A lack of high-quality options. While there *may* be an argument that there are “more” 2 piece rods than 1 piece rods out there, there aren’t more that are of a high quality. Most of the top tier manufacturers do not offer a 2 piece option throughout their entire lineup. While you can find a few, you’re going to have a much better chance of finding the type of elite rod you want in a 1 piece vs. a 2 piece fishing rod setup.
Advantages of 1 Piece Rods
There are enough advantages to a 1 piece fishing rod over a 2 piece rod that to me, it’s a no brainer to buy them so long as you have the space. Here are some of the more important ones.
More sensitive. While it’s not strictly necessary for every type of fishing, one piece rods are more sensitive than two piece fishing rods. This is because the blank is one unified shape and not broken into two pieces. This makes it easier to feel vibrations, taps, and bites. Having said that, you’re only going to notice or need this in certain situations (example, fishing jigs or such).
Durable. One piece fishing rods tend to be more durable than their two piece counterparts. The same system that allows vibrations and taps to be felt evenly throughout the rod allows stress to distribute evenly across it too. This makes it less likely to snap, even if when it does, it’s more of a problem.
Less things to go wrong. With a one piece rod, you don’t have to worry if you’ve put it together all the way or aligned it perfectly, so there’s less chance of things going wrong, like the rod falling apart while you’re fighting a fish.
Less tangles between rods. While a minor concern, placing a number of broken down 2 piece rods near each other in a rod box is a great way to tangle them. You’re less likely to tangle single piece rods though it also isn’t impossible. Also, fishing rod sleeves require a rod to be built – you can’t use them on a broken down 2 piece rod.
Wider range of high-quality options. There are more high-end fishing rods offered in 1 piece than 2 piece. If you’re after a particular brand and model, 1 piece is probably your best bet.
Better resale value. Most of the guys who are going to buy a high-end rod, new or used, are going to be looking for that sensitivity that only a 1 piece fishing rod brings. Thus, they tend to be easier to sell and will have higher resale value. Of note, I wrote an article once about how to buy used fishing rods with confidence that you might enjoy.
The Few Disadvantages of 1 Piece Rods
Even though I feel 1 piece fishing rods are superior vs 2 piece rods in most ways, they do have a few disadvantages.
Damage can be catastrophic. While damaging a two piece fishing rod means you’re replacing the half you broke, if you damage a one piece rod, you’re replacing the whole thing. Even if you only damage something like the tip, repairing it can mean shortening the rod and changing its action, or decreasing its sensitivity. Further, I have had a one piece rod snap on me right in the middle once and there is no salvaging that. If you break a one piece rod, that’s usually it, so get one with a good warranty.
Take more space. One piece rods take up more space in your boat or car than a two piece fishing rod would. Further, the trend seems to be to make fishing rods longer and longer still, so this could become an issue for more anglers. If you have a small car or rely on public transportation, one piece fishing rods can be problematic. Further, if you have limited space where you live, it can get dicey, though there are several good storage options that can keep rods out of the way. Here’s an interesting way to hang rods from your garage ceiling (or living room, if your wife will let you)!
Generally more expensive. 1 piece fishing rods tend to be more expensive vs. 2 piece fishing rods, but this is because they tend to be of a higher quality too. This means this disadvantage isn’t really “apples to apples.” In the rare instances where you can find a high-quality 2 piece, it too will command a hefty price.
When Should an Angler Buy a 2 Piece Fishing Rod
I know I’m talking a bit of smack about 2 piece fishing rods in this article, but I promise you, they catch fish. For some of you, a 2 piece fishing rod is probably even ideal vs. a 1 piece.
2 piece fishing rods are just fine for people who don’t take fishing that seriously, don’t go that often, and/or don’t have that much space. If you live in a city and have a small car or rely on public transportation, they are clearly your better option. Likewise, if you’re just starting out, or raising kids who are, a 2 piece fishing rod is going to be much less expensive and will meet your needs just fine.
You’re also good to go with a 2 piece rod if you’re fishing something like spinnerbaits or topwater lures that don’t leave any doubt when a fish hits. “Sensitivity” is only important for techniques like jigs and soft plastics where it can be hard to tell if a fish is biting, or if you’ve just hit a rock. If your budget is a concern, you might load up on 2 piece fishing rods for your power fishing applications that don’t require the sensitivity.
Which Type of Angler Should Buy a 1 Piece Fishing Rod
Frankly, I think everyone that has the space for them should buy one piece rods. While I suppose the argument can be made that your average weekend warrior isn’t going to “need” them, they’re just a pleasure to fish with and true heirlooms you can pass down. They also have significantly better resale value and often better warranties if something does go wrong.
Competitive anglers especially would do well with 1 piece fishing rods vs. a 2 piece. If money is on the line, you want to have the advantages that the one piece offers over the two piece rod. While I commonly coach that not all techniques out there (e.g. spinnerbaits) “require” a sensitive rod, the fact is, there are techniques that do. Why give up that sensitivity if you don’t have to?
Finally, anyone who wants a “high end” rod is going to want to buy a 1 piece fishing rod simply because there aren’t many “high end” 2 piece rods out there. If you enjoy the sport and want to “treat yo self,” 1 piece rods are where it’s at.
My Favorite 1 Piece Fishing Rods
My favorite fishing rods are all 1 piece vs. 2. I only own the 2 piece rods that I inherited from dad growing up. Most of them are Ugly Stiks and they’ll do the trick. However, when I put my own hard-earned money to the task, I’m grabbing a 1 piece fishing rod, and it’s going to be made by St. Croix.
I know some guys enjoy having different types of rods by different manufacturers so they can mix and match. I prefer to purchase all of mine from the same. The reason is that the power and action rating of fishing rods is not standardized. What one company calls a “medium heavy” another might consider “medium” and so on. By sticking with one manufacturer, you avoid the issue of accidentally buying something inadequate for your needs.
I did an in-depth review of St. Croix rods in this article about the best fishing rods out there. If you haven’t tried the brand, take a look at it as I review several of their models.
Are There Any High End 2 Piece Fishing Rods?
While you’re going to be very limited in what “high end” 2 piece fishing rods you can find, there are a few manufacturers who make a few of them. Even my favorite brand, St. Croix Rods, has a spattering of 2 piece rods for sale. Most of them are in their lower-level offerings like their Triumph line, but even this is a high quality product compared to most 2 piece rods on the market. However, if you’re really willing to break the bank, you can also find 2 piece fishing rods in St. Croix’s vaunted Legend Elite lineup. The only question is why on earth would you?
Conclusions
While I hope this article was helpful, I also hope it didn’t bum you out too bad if you only have two piece fishing rods, or if they’re all you can afford. While a 2 piece fishing rod does have significant disadvantages vs. a 1 piece offering, I will promise you something: the fish don’t care. As long as you’re out there on or near the water having fun and catching fish, it doesn’t matter. Frankly, if you’re the target audience of this blog, you’re just starting out fishing with your kids. They’re going to smile regardless of what rod catches what fish, so enjoy!
